A good 1000 km journey from the capital, through massive swathes of brutal and relentless desert, sits Khiva; a medieval sandcastle with turquoise tiled minarets and mausoleums. Stepping into this historic Silk Road city, once seen as oasis for exhausted merchants, is surreal.

Khiva’s slightly inconvenient location away from the other main cities of Uzbekistan, means that many tourists skip Khiva altogether, which is a shame! But it’s also a blessing in disguise for those that do put in that extra effort to reach Khiva. It is absolutely worth it – no question.

This travel guide will help you with all the things to do in Khiva as well as recommendations on accommodation, restaurants, and transport.

How to Get to Khiva

Most flights into Uzbekistan will arrive into Tashkent. You can then fly from Tashkent in to Urgench airport (UGC), which is located about 36km away from Khiva. The flight will only take about ninety minutes. And if you ask your accommodation nicely, they will likely arrange a pick up for you. Take a look at flight deals here.

Train services are mostly good, and definitely a cultural experience. You can book trains online through this website. This is how I booked all of our trains. It is a little more expensive than if you were to buy at the station in person, however, trains tend to sell out quickly, so buying advance is advised. And you won’t have difficulty with the language barrier in person.

There are trains from Tashkent, Samarkand, and Bukhara heading to Khiva.

When to Visit Khiva

Being in the desert, Khiva experiences severe heat in the summer (45°C), and severe cold in the winter (-7°C), so picking the right to time to visit can make or break your trip.

The most pleasant weather is during March, April, May, June, and then September, October.

However, these are also the busiest periods. If you can bear the heat, I’d recommend the summer. We visited in July, and it was HOT. By about 14:00 each day, temperatures had soared to 42°C, but you can easily plan your day around the heat. Head out early in the morning, come back to your accommodation in time for breakfast, head out for a couple more hours before the heat becomes too much, have a wee snooze back at your accommodation, and then venture out later in the afternoon again.

How Long to Spend in Khiva

Entrance tickets are only valid for 24 hours, however, that does not mean that you can’t explore the more of the city after the 24 hours is up. We spent four nights in Khiva (one extra night for recovery from our mammoth journey to get there), but I would recommend two or three nights.

Where to Stay in Khiva

We absolutely fell in love with Xiva Shahriston! It is set in a traditional building with beautifully decorated rooms and a balcony. Breakfast is included, tea and coffee is freely available all day, and they even came to pick us up from Urgench airport. The family that run the place are really friendly! I can’t recommend it highly enough.

Things to Do in Khiva

Kalta Minor Minaret

If you search for photos of Khiva, you will inevitably have seen this striking minaret. Covered in blue and turquoise from base to top, it is the iconic monument within Ichan Kala. Originally, the minaret was to be constructed to a height of over 70 metres, but today you will only see 29 metres of minaret. The Khan of the Khiva Khanate died, and from that point, construction stopped. So the minaret remains unfinished.

Kuhna Ark and Watchtower

Kuhna Ark was the residence of the rulers of Khiva. It is a large complex to wander round, but the highlight is the watchtower. Climb up here for panoramic views over the city and a view of the sandcastle-esque walls themselves.

Juma Mosque

Juma Mosque (or Friday Mosque) is unique; I’ve not seen any other mosque throughout the Muslim world that even has similarities. Low ceilings, carved wooden pillars, and no colour. It is beautiful and subtle and atmospheric.

Islam Khodja Minaret

The highest point in Khiva, you can climb this minaret for panoramic views over the city. From pictures I’ve seen of the viewpoint, I feel like the watchtower view is more spectacular. I think it’s probably more a case of the view of the minaret is better than the view from the minaret. If you decide to go up the minaret, you’ll have to pay 100,000 SOM as entrance is not included in the Khiva ticket.

Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum

Arguably the most beautiful and complete monument in Khiva, this complex has a huge turquoise dome and intricate tiling on every inch of wall and ceiling inside. Pahlavan Mahmud was a poet and patron saint of Khiva, and the mausoleum is still visited by those wanting to pay their respects. Entrance is not included in the regular ticket so you’ll have to pay an extra 25,000 SOM, which is absolutely worth it!

Tash Khauli (or Tosshovli)

Tash Khauli is another palace that belonged to the ruling Khans (like Kuhna Ark), but for some reason, it attracts less tourists. The complex is huge, with almost every inch of wall or ceiling covered in blue or turquoise tiles. There are loads of passageways leading to more rooms and more courtyards. When we visited, we were literally the only people there.

How to Get Tickets

Outside of the main gate, there is a kiosk selling tickets. As of 2024, a ticket costs 150,000 SOM and is valid for 24 hours. You can pay with card or cash.

What is Included with the Ticket?

Tickets are valid for 24 hours and include entrance to all monuments within Itchan Kala (the walled inner city), except climbing Islam Khodja Minaret and Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum. You may be asked to show your ticket to enter through the main gate (West Gate), however, there are lots of other entrances where you do not have to show a ticket. Khiva is a living museum – there are locals who live inside, and there are guesthouses, restaurants etc. You do not need to pay to enter the city, just find a different route. 

You will not get a map with your ticket, which I thought was a shame. But, if you head into the city to the tourist info centre, they will give you a free map, and circle the points that are included with your ticket for you.

Is Khiva worth visiting? What makes it different to other Silk Road Cities?

Absolutely. 100%. No question. Khiva is our favourite Uzbek Silk Road City. Bukhara and Samarkand arguably have more impressive monuments and tilework, but they are spread throughout a modern city. Khiva is unique in its monuments all being contained within a city that has kept its historical charm. Being in Khiva is a whole authentic experience in itself.

Khiva Restaurants

Khiva Moon

Khiva Moon sits just outside of the city walls, has great prices, and sees much fewer tourists. It has traditional seating (on what seems like raised beds) outside, which we really loved. And there are several veg options! Try the shivit oshi (without meat).

Terrassa

This restaurant is definitely a little on the pricey end. But the food, the tea, and the outstanding view over Khiva are worth it. Even if the prices are too much, I would recommend going up to the top and just ordering a pot of tea.

Khorezm Art Café

Sit on the courtyard overlooking a madrasah, while eating your pumpkin manti and sipping on tea.

Just one point about alcohol. Even though Uzbekistan is a religious Muslim country, they still drink alcohol; they just don’t overly advertise about it. When you go in to a corner shop or a restaurant, they likely won’t have beer in the fridges or on the menus. BUT, if you ask if they have beer, I guarantee to you that someone will pop out to a back room and bring you a beer.

Where to Go Next?

Khiva is quite far away from the other main cities in Uzbekistan. The closest is Bukhara, which is an absolute must-visit. You can easily jump on a train to get you there.

Otherwise, you could head a little further north to explore Nukus and see what was once the Aral Sea.

Khiva is also really close to the border with Turkmenistan, so if you’re one of the lucky few that has had a visa approved, this could be your entry point.