Things to Do in Khiva: The Traveller’s Guide
A good 1000 km journey from the capital, through massive swathes of brutal and relentless desert, sits Khiva; a medieval sandcastle with turquoise tiled minarets and mausoleums. Stepping into this historic Silk Road city, once seen as oasis for exhausted merchants, is surreal.
Khiva’s slightly inconvenient location away from the other main cities of Uzbekistan, means that many tourists skip Khiva altogether, which is a shame! But it’s also a blessing in disguise for those that do put in that extra effort to reach Khiva. It is absolutely worth it – no question.
This travel guide will help you with all the things to do in Khiva as well as recommendations on accommodation, restaurants, and transport.
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How to Get to Khiva
Most flights into Uzbekistan will arrive into the capital city Tashkent. You can then fly from Tashkent in to Urgench airport (UGC), which is located about 36km away from Khiva.
The flight will only take about ninety minutes. And if you ask your accommodation nicely, they will likely arrange a pick up for you. Take a look at flight deals.
Train services are mostly good, and definitely a cultural experience. You can book trains online through this website. This is how we booked all of our trains.
Alternately, if you feel more comfortable you can book Uzbekistan railway routes through 12Go.
It is a little more expensive than if you were to buy at the station in person, however, trains tend to sell out quickly, so buying advance is advised. And you won’t have difficulty with the language barrier in person.
There are trains from Tashkent, Samarkand, and Bukhara heading to Khiva.
Read our post on everything you need to know about Uzbek train travel before booking your trip. And we have whole blog post specifically on the journey from Khiva to Bukhara or vice versa because, well, it was an experience we won’t be forgetting in a hurry. I’ll put it that way!
When to Visit Khiva
Being in the desert, Khiva experiences severe heat in the summer (45°C), and severe cold in the winter (-7°C), so picking the right to time to visit can make or break your trip.
The most pleasant weather is during March, April, May, June, and then September, October.
However, these are also the busiest periods. If you can bear the heat, I’d recommend the summer. We visited in July, and it was HOT. By about 14:00 each day, temperatures had soared to 42°C, but you can easily plan your day around the heat.
Head out early in the morning, come back to your accommodation in time for breakfast, head out for a couple more hours before the heat becomes too much, have a wee snooze back at your accommodation, and then venture out later in the afternoon again.
Khiva is a conservative part of Uzbekistan, so even though it gets hot, you should still dress modestly. Check out our blog post on what to wear in Uzbekistan.
How Long to Spend in Khiva
Entrance tickets are only valid for 24 hours, however, that does not mean that you can’t explore the more of the city after the 24 hours is up.
We spent four nights in Khiva (one extra night for recovery from our mammoth journey to get there), but I would recommend two or three nights.
Where to Stay in Khiva
Xiva Shahriston (£)
We absolutely fell in love with Xiva Shahriston! It is set in a traditional building with beautifully decorated rooms and a balcony. Breakfast is included, tea and coffee is freely available all day, and they even came to pick us up from Urgench airport. The family that run the place are really friendly! We can’t recommend it highly enough.
🛏️ Book Xiva Shahriston 🛏️
Things to Do in Khiva
Kalta Minor Minaret
If you search for photos of Khiva, you will inevitably have seen this striking minaret. Covered in blue and turquoise from base to top, it is the iconic monument within Ichan Kala.
Originally, the minaret was to be constructed to a height of over 70 metres, but today you will only see 29 metres of minaret. The Khan of the Khiva Khanate died, and from that point, construction stopped. So the minaret remains unfinished.
Savvy Traveller Pro Tips 🇺🇿
After exploring Uzbekistan for three weeks, these are our favourite booking tools that we couldn’t travel without!
Kuhna Ark and Watchtower
Kuhna Ark was the residence of the rulers of Khiva. It is a large complex to wander round, but the highlight is the watchtower. Climb up here for panoramic views over the city and a view of the sandcastle-esque walls themselves.
Juma Mosque
Juma Mosque (or Friday Mosque) is unique; I’ve not seen any other mosque throughout the Muslim world that even has similarities. Low ceilings, carved wooden pillars, and no colour. It is beautiful and subtle and atmospheric.
Islam Khodja Minaret
The highest point in Khiva, you can climb this minaret for panoramic views over the city. From pictures I’ve seen of the viewpoint, I feel like the watchtower view is more spectacular.
I think it’s probably more a case of the view of the minaret is better than the view from the minaret. If you decide to go up the minaret, you’ll have to pay 100,000 SOM as entrance is not included in the Khiva ticket.
Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum
Arguably the most beautiful and complete monument in Khiva, this complex has a huge turquoise dome and intricate tiling on every inch of wall and ceiling inside.
Pahlavan Mahmud was a poet and patron saint of Khiva, and the mausoleum is still visited by those wanting to pay their respects. Entrance is not included in the regular ticket so you’ll have to pay an extra 25,000 SOM, which is absolutely worth it!
Tash Khauli (or Tosshovli)
Tash Khauli is another palace that belonged to the ruling Khans (like Kuhna Ark), but for some reason, it attracts less tourists.
The complex is huge, with almost every inch of wall or ceiling covered in blue or turquoise tiles. There are loads of passageways leading to more rooms and more courtyards. When we visited, we were literally the only people there.
How to Get Tickets
Outside of the main gate, there is a kiosk selling tickets. As of 2024, a ticket cost us 150,000 SOM and is valid for 24 hours. You can pay with card or cash.
What is Included with the Ticket?
Tickets are valid for 24 hours and include entrance to all monuments within Itchan Kala (the walled inner city), except climbing Islam Khodja Minaret and Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum.
You may be asked to show your ticket to enter through the main gate (West Gate), however, there are lots of other entrances where you do not have to show a ticket.
Khiva is a living museum – there are locals who live inside, and there are guesthouses, restaurants etc. You do not need to pay to enter the city, just find a different route.
You will not get a map with your ticket, which I thought was a shame. But, if you head into the city to the tourist info centre, they will give you a free map, and circle the points that are included with your ticket for you.
Is Khiva worth visiting? What makes it different to other Silk Road Cities?
Absolutely. 100%. No question. Khiva is our favourite Uzbek Silk Road City.
Samarkand arguably have more impressive monuments and tilework, but the monuments are spread throughout a modern city.
Khiva is unique in its monuments all being contained within a historic fortified city (that feels like a big sand castle!) that has kept its historical charm. Being in Khiva is a whole authentic experience in itself.
Khiva Restaurants
Uzbek food generally isn’t vegetarian friendly, but you won’t go hungry in Khiva! Take a look at our post on veg-friendly Uzbek dishes to look out for.
Khiva Moon
Khiva Moon sits just outside of the city walls, has great prices, and sees much fewer tourists.
It has traditional seating (on what seems like raised beds) outside, which we really loved. And there are several veg options! Try the shivit oshi (without meat).
Terrassa
This restaurant is definitely a little on the pricey end. But the food, the tea, and the outstanding view over Khiva are worth it.
Even if the prices are too much, I would recommend going up to the top and just ordering a pot of tea.
Khorezm Art Café
📍 Ichan Qala, Allaqulihan Madrasa
Sit on the courtyard overlooking a madrasah, while eating your pumpkin manti and sipping on tea.
Just One Point About Alcohol
Even though Uzbekistan is a conservative country, they still drink alcohol; they just don’t overly advertise it.
When you go in to a corner shop or a restaurant, they likely won’t have beer in the fridges or on the menus. BUT, if you ask if they have beer, I guarantee to you that someone will pop out to a back room and bring you a beer.
AND Uzbekistan even makes its own wine! Yep, my mind was blown too. Our favourite wines came from Surxondaryo region in the very south of the country, near Termez.
Where to Go Next?
Khiva is quite far away from the other main cities in Uzbekistan. The closest is Bukhara, which is an absolute must-visit. You can easily jump on a train to get you there.
Otherwise, you could head a little further north to explore Nukus and see what was once the Aral Sea.
Khiva is also really close to the border with Turkmenistan, so if you’re one of the lucky few that has had a visa approved, this could be your entry point.
In a Nutshell
Plan more of your trip with these:
- Travel Tips for Uzbekistan: 13 Useful Things to Know
- What to Wear in Uzbekistan: Responsible Travel Tips
- Uzbek Food: What to Eat as a Vegetarian Traveller
- 9 Spectacular Things to Do in Samarkand, Uzbekistan
- How to Take the Khiva to Bukhara Train for Adventure Travellers
- 1o Fascinating Things to Do in Bukhara
- Uzbekistan Railways: Your Guide to Uzbek Train Travel
- Top 12 Things to Do in Tashkent
- Tashkent’s Best Restaurants for Vegetarians: 8 Top Spots
- How to Get from Tashkent & Andijan to Osh via Dostyk Border
- Where Uzbekistan Meets Afghanistan: 7 Things to Do in Termez
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