While Yerevan is known for its pink stone buildings, Gyumri is known for its harsh black and orange stone buildings. Throughout our six-week adventure around Armenia, Gyumri was probably the closest we came to somewhere with an ‘old town’ feel. The buildings have character here, which Yerevan is lacking thanks to the Soviets rebuilding the city.

This guide will show you the top things to do in Gyumri, logistics on how to reach Gyumri from Yerevan as a day trip, as well as a restaurant recommendation that was one of our favourites in the whole of the country!

Where is Gyumri?

Gyumri is in the north west corner of Armenia, close to the borders with Georgia and Turkey. It is close to Kars in Turkey which is known as Little Siberia. And we definitely should have taken this into consideration because it was freezing when we visited, particularly in comparison to Yerevan.

History

In relatively recent history, the city has been named after Russian czars and leaders – Alexandropol and Leninakan – before being named Gyumri shortly after independence. The population rapidly increased due to Armenians fleeing the genocide of 1915, but then a catastrophic earthquake in 1988 destroyed the city and killed tens of thousands. The city is still being rebuilt.

How to Get to Gyumri

From Yerevan

For a day trip, the best option is to take the express train from Yerevan Railway Station. It leaves at 09:15 every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, arriving into Gyumri at 11:25.

The express train returns to Yerevan, leaving at 17:55 from Gyumri.

Tickets cost 2500 AMD per person on the express train.

If you’d rather take a marshrutka, there are a few leaving from Yerevan’s Southern bus station starting at 10:00. The journey takes two and a half hours and costs 1500 AMD.

For all our top tips on taking public transport in Armenia, take a look at this blog post.

For the most updated Armenia marshrutka and train timetables, check here.

From Tbilisi

The overnight train from Tbilisi to Yerevan stops on the way at Gyumri. You will be arriving in the very early morning, but the journey is a whole experience in itself on the ex-Soviet train.

To find more about the overnight train from Tbilisi to Yerevan, take a look at our post here.

Things to Do in Gyumri

All Saviours Church

All Saviours Church sits at Vartanants Square in harsh black and bright orange tuff stone with the original church was made with the design of Ani Cathedral in mind. The 1988 earthquake flattened the building, but restoration work was nearing completion when we visited in early 2023. Make sure you take a look out the back of the cathedral as you can see some of the original fallen belfry towers.

Huge Soviet Hammer and Sickle Sign

A little out of the main part of the city, here, is a huge monument harbouring the Soviet hammer and sickle.

Black Fortress (Sev Berd)

The Black Fortress is a circular black stone building upon a hill that was used as a stronghold during Russian Imperial times. You can walk up to the fortress for great views over Gyumri, and you can even step inside to take a look. There is no entrance fee.

Mother Armenia

On the way up to the Black Fortress, go to see Mother Armenia; a prominent strong female figure in many major ex-Soviet cities.

Street Photography

Gyumri has many opportunities to capture interesting street scenes, whether it be due to the cobbled streets, heritage architecture, black and orange stone contrast, rusty Ladas, or old Cyrillic signs.

Is it worth visiting Gyumri?

If you’re interested in history and architecture like us, yes.

However, I feel like a half day is more than enough time to see all the best bits, stop for a coffee, and grab a great meal before you jump back on the train to Yerevan.

Where to Eat

Gwoog

One of our favourite traditional Armenian meals was right here. The place is small, so it might be a good idea to call ahead and book a table.

I would thoroughly recommend the panrkhash, aveluk salad, tatar boraki, and vana kalagosh. Now, these were all things that I had never heard of, but they were absolutely perfect for Siberian weather we experienced in Gyumri. They were rich, stodgy and warming vegetarian dishes, and most importantly, it all felt like proper authentic food without any touristy gimmicks.

The place to have an early dinner before you get back on the train to Yerevan is Gwoog. If you’re getting dinner back in Yerevan, take a look at this post for all the best restaurants for vegetarians.

Aregak Bakery and Cafe

And if you’re looking for a cute cafe, this is the one. Grab yourself a coffee and a pastry or a sandwich.