10 Amazing Things to Do in Panaji (& Best Restaurants)
Goa is known to have some of the best beaches in India. White sand, beautiful blue water, palm trees, feni cocktails, punchy curries, maybe a cow wandering around. It’s laid-back; life just moves at a slower pace. But it’s not all just beaches here in Goa.
Goa’s capital, Panaji, is colourful and cute with cobbled streets and Portuguese colonial buildings. And just outside of Panaji are UNESCO listed buildings dating back to the 1500s.
Cool and quirky, there are some great restaurants in Panaji, as well as plenty of cute cafes and unassuming bars.
And when the weather starts to get all miserable and cold and rainy back in European winter, that’s exactly when things brighten up in Goa. Chase some winter/Christmas sun!
After having spent five days in Panaji at the end of our three-month adventure around South India, we put together this guide to help you out with all the best things to do in Panaji. And I promise there’s much more than just beaches. (We also spent five days here back in 2015 which makes us feel SO old!)
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1. Wander the Colourful Colonial Streets of Fontainhas
Fontainhas (or the Latin Quarter) is cute and colourful with its winding alleyways, tiny bars and cafes. It is a beautiful spot full of characterful buildings straight out of Portugal.
You’ll see buildings painted in bright colours and muted pastels, but you’ll also see plenty of the classic Portuguese azulejos tiling on signs and entrance ways. Azulejos is the very distinctive, blue and white decorative tiles that the country is so well-known for.
Wander the alleyways, take some beautiful photos and pop your head into all the cute cafes!
2. See Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church
You won’t miss this church! It’s huge and very white, sitting at the top of a crisscrossing staircase (which is a very common style of staircase throughout Panaji). The bright white church sat amongst the brightly painted surrounding buildings and green palm trees makes for some beautiful photos.
A church was originally built in 1541 for the Portuguese settlers, but a larger church (that you see today) was built in its place and has been around since the 1600s.
3. Explore UNESCO-Listed Old Goa
Jump in a tuktuk or take the public bus up the road to Old Goa. It won’t take more than 20/30 minutes to get there with either method, and then suddenly you arrive into this town of ancient and crumbling ruins of Portuguese churches and cathedrals.
There is no entrance fee so you can wander round to your heart’s content. All the buildings are within walking distance of each other. Old Goa is a perfect and easy half-day trip from Panaji.
4. See Maruti Temple
Another place with a beautiful set of stairs leading up the hillside, Maruti Temple is dedicated to Hanuman the Hindu monkey God.
The temple itself is bright orange and has a large orange tower. From the temple, you get panoramic views an endless sea of trees with colourful buildings mixed in.
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5. Climb Lyceum’s Stairway
Another set of beautiful stairs is Lyceum’s Stairway (or ‘courthouse stairs’ as they are referred to on Google Maps). Red and yellow steps with overgrowing plants crisscross up the side of a hill.
The photos I took do not do it justice! The Altinho area is full of pretty staircases, and this has to be one of the most prominent right in the centre.
6. Grab a Drink at Joseph Bar
Joseph Bar is cute and quirky and full of old charm. The owner told us that it used to be a watch and clock repair shop, and you can really see this when you step inside. It has kept its original and authentic charm; it is old and rustic, and feels like you’re stepping back in time.
Come here to grab a drink but also to experience this unique historical spot. The bar is very small with seating for maybe ten people inside and a handful outside.
7. Stop for Pastel de Nata and Masala Chai at Confeitaria 31 de Januario
We have visited many places throughout Asia that used to be Portuguese colonies, and I can’t think of one that does not have pastel de nata available almost everywhere. Goa is no different.
Pastel de nata is a Portuguese sweet custard pastry. Partner this with a spicy masala chai, and you quite literally have the perfect afternoon pick-me-up.
Confeitaria 31 de Januario does a delicious little pastel de nata, and the cafe itself is beautiful too. It has a lovely little outside seating area with high stools and pretty tiled tables.
8. Try Local Feni Alcohol
Feni is a Goan alcohol and there are two types that you’ll find in Goa: coconut and cashew.
Coconut is the original being made by fermenting and distilling palm tree sap.
Cashews were introduced to Goa by the Portuguese when they brough them over from Brazil. The cashew fruits are pressed, and the juice is then fermented and distilled.
Feni is strong; its alcohol percentage is usually somewhere between 42 and 45%.
You can drink it straight (though that’ll be tough!), have a feni-based cocktail or try the classic feni and Limca mix.
Mix the feni with a little salt, green chilli and Limca, which is an Indian lemon and lime fizzy drink. It has to be one of my favourite ways to drink feni!
9. Brave a Vindaloo!
Now, if you’re familiar with the Indian food commonly eaten in the West, you’ll know that vindaloo is a dish that is feared.
It is usually the spiciest curry on a British Indian menu (unless they also have a phall, but that’s a whole different story!), so I absolutely wanted to get my hands on a proper Goan vindaloo.
And it’s beautiful, not blow-your-face-off spicy like it would be back home. It’s garlicky, has a thick and sour sauce, and really isn’t too hot.
10. Try People’s Lager (even if you’re not a beer fan!)
OK, so I do not like beer but even I liked this local Goan beer. The secret? It’s made with rice, not just hops!
If that awful hoppy taste is what puts you off beer, like me, give this one a go. It tastes completely different and is perfect on a hot day.
Best Restaurants in Panaji (plus a couple of bars)
Cafe Bhonsle and Bombay Shiv Sagar – a couple of proper local spots right next to each other and opposite Casa Dos Rebelos. Grab yourself some samosas and mirchi bhaji with some masala chai.
Caravela Cafe and Bistro – a little fancier and you can actually get yourself a full English if that’s what you’re looking for. Otherwise go for the ros omelette – a classic Goan breakfast of omelette served in curry!
Antonio’s Tapas Bar – more on the Portuguese theme, this place serves delicious tapas. Take a break from the curries and thalis and order all the tapas, everything is delicious.
Kokum Curry – definitely a posh establishment, but the thalis are stunning, and the masala peanuts are a 10/10.
Kokni Canteen – We loved this place! There was always a huge queue of locals waiting outside which means that does great food. Order the paneer cafreal (which is a fresh and herby masala marinade).
Hospedaria de Venite – we just went to this spot for drinks but it is in such an interesting building! Try to squeeze yourself on to the tables on the tiny balconies; they’re definitely the best seats in the house.
Top Gear – a tiny locals spot perfect if you’re searching for somewhere with Kingfisher beer on tap.
Little bar next Casa Dos Rebelos – you won’t find this on Google Maps, but to the right of Casa Dos Rebelos is a tiny spot where they sell bottles of whisky and rum and other spirits, but he also sells local beers that you can either take away or drink here. Pull up a seat and drink it here; it’s a proper local experience!
Joseph Bar – as mentioned above, this tiny spot used to be a watch repair shop and has since been turned into a cute and quirky bar.
Where to Stay in Panaji
Hotel Casa Dos Rebelos (£)
📍 1st Floor, Rebelo Building, Rua De Ormuz
Casa Dos Rebelos is the perfect place to stay! It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but inside the rooms are beautiful and spacious with lovely décor, private bathroom and aircon. It’s very centrally located and walking distance to restaurants, Fontainhas, etc.
🛏️ Plan your Stay 🛏️
How to Get to Panaji
Flights
Goa has two airports – Manohar (GOX) and Dabolim (GOI). Dabolim is about a 30-minute drive south of Panaji but it is mainly serviced by internal flights and a couple from the Middle East.
Manohar is a good 45-minute drive north of Panaji but has direct flights from more of the Middle East, London Gatwick, Tashkent, and a couple of spots in Russia.
There are direct shuttle buses from both Manohar and Dabolim airports to Panaji KTC Bus Stand (the central bus station). Check out the timetables here: Manohar to Panaji & Dabolim to Panaji.
Buses
India is very well-connected with bus routes, so you can easily get from any of the nearby cities by bus. Check out your best options on 12Go.
Trains
Trains are notoriously difficult to book through the official website if you are not a local, and you want to get your tickets booked in advance because they sell out quickly.
But you can also buy your train tickets through 12Go and bypass the Indian Railways website, which is SO helpful!
Karmali is the closest train station to Panaji (it’s right by Old Goa), and from here you’ll have to either get a quick tuktuk journey, order a taxi through Uber, or jump on the next local bus into Panaji.
How to Get Around Panaji
Everything is very much walkable, but you can also take tuktuks or order Uber rides on the app.
Is Panaji worth visiting?
Yes! It is absolutely worth visiting Panaji. We loved the feel of the place, the food, the architecture, the tropical environment, being right by the sea. It ticks a lot of the boxes!
I think it’s also a good spot as an entry point to India for first timers. If you have never been to India before, it can be a bit much (trust me, I VERY much have felt it!), but Panaji and South Goa are a gentler way to ease your way into the vibrance and chaos of India.
How long to spend in Panaji?
About two days would let you see all the best bits of Panaji, but if you’re loving the relaxed vibe, you could spend a few leisurely days just wandering and stopping at cute cafes.
From here, you can also head off to explore some of the beaches. Our favourites are further south – Majorda, Patnem, and Palolem.
When is the best time to visit Goa & Panaji?
The best time to visit to Goa and Panaji is between November and February, making it the perfect place to get some winter sun! Shoulder seasons October and March will have less tourists.
So where are you heading next?
From Panaji, you can explore further around the Goan state, venturing south to some beautiful beaches in a serene setting.
Or you could head inland to the historic UNESCO site of Hampi, which is fascinating!
Maybe head north to experience the great Maharashtrian food scene in bustling Pune or Mumbai.
Or head further south to the Mangalorean coast and then on to Mysore Palace.
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