Mestia to Ushguli Trek: Your 2025 Hiking Guide with Map

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Georgia’s most famous multi-day hike through its most beautiful region is tough but absolutely worth the sore legs and feet.

The Mestia to Ushguli trek takes you through small and isolated villages, over mountain passes, across ferocious rivers, and alongside enormous glaciers.

It is a hell of an adventure but it does hurt; you’ll be cursing yourself for signing up for it.

But if you’ve searched the internet for info on this multi-day hike, well, you’re a lover of type 2 fun just like us anyway, right?!

We trekked from Mestia to Ushguli in mid-June 2025 and absolutely loved it, like, 85% of the hike anyway.

We tried to find info online about the route but there didn’t seem to be much that was actually up-to-date. The main blog instructions that we did end up following turned out to be pretty unreliable to say the least.

So we decided to write our own post with answers to all the questions that we had before we hiked, the route with Maps.me locations so it’s less easy to get lost, and our top tips after having completed the hike as newbies to the multi-day trekking game.

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Rough Trekking Route

  • Leg 1: Mestia to Zhabeshi – 18km
  • Leg 2: Zhabeshi to Adishi – 12km
  • Leg 3: Adishi to Lakhrori – 20km
  • Leg 4: Lakhrori to Ushguli – 12km

Route Description

Before you head off on the hike, download the Maps.me app on to your phone and the Maps.me Georgia map to allow you to see the locations linked below.

It will help you to check you’re on track and you can save spots along the way that you don’t want to miss. Maps.me links can only be opened on mobile devices with the app downloaded, not on a regular website on desktop.

To see our route that we hiked, Download, extract and then open the below file in Maps.me!

1. Mestia to Zhabeshi

All stats mentioned below are measured on our own devices.

  • Distance: 18km
  • Duration: 5.5h
  • Elevation gain: 709m
  • Total ascent: 6.26km
  • Total descent: 4.48km 
  • Highest point: 1964m

The trailhead starts here just beyond Dissident Cafe across the bridge. You’ll see the official yellow signposts for Zhabeshi with times and distances marked.

Take a left and head up the hill keeping to the higher path on the right that then turns into a dirt path. You’ll see Paradiso Mestia guesthouse on your left followed by some cabins.

Just after the cabins, the road splits in two. Keep following the main road marked as Revaz Margiani Street on Maps.me. It’s all a bit dusty and not the most scenic, but just stick with it for maybe twenty minutes and it’ll get nice and green and pretty.

You’ll see your next set of yellow signposts here

a path leads between trees with snow-capped mountains in the background on the hike from Mestia to Zhabeshi in Georgia

Keep walking straight until the view opens out and you’ll see mighty Mount Ushba to your left.

Here, you’ll find another signpost heading to the right up a pretty steep and rocky path. It doesn’t last too long – maybe fifteen minutes – but make sure you turn round at the top to get your last sight of Mestia!

It levels out a bit now and is a pleasant walk among trees and meadows of wild flowers and you might bump into a few friendly cows. 

pink, yellow, and wild flowers in a meadow with snow-topped Mount Ushba in the background - on the hike from Mestia to Zhabeshi, Georgia

Follow the path until you hit the next signposts here. Head to the right and up into the forest on a very steep path.

Now this section is SWEATY. It’s maybe 20/30 minutes until it levels out, so stick with it. When you reach the top, take the path to the right and head towards this spot here.

The view to your left over the meadow and up to the mountain is stunning! Keep walking straight instead of towards the mountain and follow the orange dashed route on Maps.me down to here (another beautiful viewpoint!). 

a view in to a green valley with a meandering river and snow-capped mountains on a hike from Mestia to Zhabeshi

Take the route down into the valley (there’s no more up for today!)

There are several routes that all end up in more or less the same place – Mulakhi/Lakhiri villages. We took the lowest path heading down to here which ended up with a bit of scrambling up a hillside because of a small landslide that had made the path not easily accessible, so I probably wouldn’t recommend this section.

So, if we were to do it again, we would take the route through these points here or here

ruins of a building with a doorway remaining, Svan watchtower in the background on the hike from Mestia to Zhabeshi, Georgia

And if you do take the lower route, you should stop by here for a beer. It just looks like someone’s garden (which is essentially what it is) with a sign saying ‘Green Table’. They sell beers for 10 GEL as well as tea and coffee and smoked sulguni cheese.

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Follow the road down through Zhamushi and Cholashi and then take the path up the left hand side of the river heading to here which is a great place to stop for a break with a river view. 

If it has been raining, the rest of the route up alongside the river can get pretty mucky, but keep following up to here.

You’ve made it to Zhabeshi! Cross the bridge into the village and head to your guesthouse for the night.

a historic Svan watchtower stands in the centre of a valley with green trees either side on the Mestia to Ushguli trek

Where to Stay in Mestia

Roza’s Guesthouse (£)

📍 Irakli Parjian 1 Alley,

f you’re on a budget, you can get a comfortable and simple room at Roza’s Guesthouse. Roza is so helpful and welcoming!

🛏️ Reserve your room 🛏️

A-frame Wonder (££)

📍 Irakli Parjian 1 Alley,

We also stayed in Roza’s cabin (A-frame Wonder), which has enough space for four people to stay a large seating/dining/kitchen area, and even a balcony with mountain views.

🛏️ Check out the view! 🛏️

an A frame wooden cabin in Mestia, Georgia

Where to Stay in Zhabeshi

We stayed at Guesthouse Tanano/Dodo. The family running the place were SO lovely and welcoming.

Their cheese and potato khachapuri, and homemade yoghurt were great! There is only one shared bathroom for the four rooms at the guesthouse.

  • Dinner: 30 GEL per person
  • Breakfast: 25 GEL per person
  • Lunchbox: 5 GEL per person
  • Room rate: 50 GEL

🛏️ Reserve your room 🛏️

Guesthouse Tanano/Dodo in Zhabeshi, Georgia has two storeys attached to a historic Svan tower

2. Zhabeshi to Adishi

  • Distance: 12km
  • Duration: 4.5h
  • Elevation gain: 893m
  • Total ascent: 5.82km
  • Total descent: 3.59km 
  • Highest point: 2517m

Today is a long old slog uphill for about two hours so make sure you get yourself some good carby breakfast and a strong coffee before you set off.

Head up to this spot and cross the bridge to the right. Follow the path past a few houses – there is a BIG Caucasian shepherd dog that lives here, but he was chained up.

This section is pretty muddy and gradually becomes steeper as the path curves to the left. The view opens up to the right and it is really pretty!

At the top of the muddy path about here, you’ll hit a crossroads. Yes, there are yellow signposts on the right, but they do not point to Adishi. Take the route to the left instead and follow it up through the trees.

The view opens up to the left about here and it is beautiful! Cross the small stream and then follow the path up.

a view over green mountains with a small village in the middle - Zhabeshi, Georgia

It’s tough and it’s relentless and it’s steep for a good hour or so until you reach the mountain pass, but once you reach the top, there is a café serving cold drinks and snacks. Put down your pack, buy yourself a cold Coke and breathe.

There are benches and views over snow-capped mountains so this is the perfect spot to recover.

a cafe at the midway point on the hike from Zhabeshi to Adishi in Georgia is surrounded by trees and two snow-capped mountains

Unfortunately, there is still a little more up, but you’re about to hit my absolute favourite section of the hike! From the café, head left up the road to here.

It’s downhill from here and insanely pretty. We took the right and lower path at this fork, but Maps.me looks like both routes lead to Adishi.

a full mountain range with snow on top - Zhabeshi to Adishi trek

At this spot, there is a river crossing with a dodgy and very wobbly couple of strategically placed planks of wood. Take it slow and test out the wobbliness and placement of the planks before you go for it!

The next section is likely muddy and boggy and then continue straight on the path until it opens out into the valley and you reach Café Lakhvba. It wasn’t open when we were there mid-June, but it looked great!

After this café, you will start to see Adishi in the valley and it really is truly beautiful and full of Svan towers.

You survived day two!

Adishi village with brick watchtowers and red and grey rooftops sits in a lush valley in Svaneti, Georgia

Where to Stay in Adishi

We stayed at Koba Qaldani’s Guesthouse/Café. We were pretty shocked when we turned up and saw that we had to scale a ladder to enter the guesthouse!

Adishi seems not to have electricity until maybe 16:00/17:00 so you can’t have a hot shower until then (though this is village-wide, not specific to this accommodation).

This guesthouse had two bathrooms which eased the traffic! Because it is also a café, you can buy snacks, drinks, even some hot cooked dishes.

  • Dinner: 30 GEL per person
  • Breakfast: 30 GEL per person
  • Lunchbox: they just told us to take leftovers from breakfast!
  • Room rate: 49 GEL

🛏️ Check out the view! 🛏️

3. Adishi to Lalkhori

  • Distance: 20km
  • Duration: 6.5h
  • Elevation gain: 708m
  • Total ascent: 5.08km
  • Total descent: 8.18km 
  • Highest point: 2741m

This is the day of the infamous river crossing! Ask at your guesthouse about horses, and they will help you out. Our guesthouse wrote the name of her horse man on a piece of paper to give to us, but if you’re trekking in the main season – July, August, some of September – there will likely be horses at the crossing waiting for you. 

Head up and to the right, crossing the bridge out of the village – you’ll find a set of yellow signposts here.

Just beyond the signpost, you’ll see the road splits in two even though Maps.me suggests that there is only one route. Both routes end up reconnecting later on, but we took the higher route to the left, which is the one marked on the map.

a green valley with a meandering river running through in Adishi, Georgia

Cross a couple of streams while following the path up river. And this is where you have to cross the river. Maps.me even has it marked as ‘Potentially deep and hard river crossing’. 

Early in the season, the river levels are high because there is more rain and melting snow and ice from the mountain tops.

When the horses were crossing, the water was reaching the top of their legs, and it’s powerful water. Now, I am not someone that rides horses, in fact, I feel completely uncomfortable and anxious at the thought of getting on a horse.

But the alternative of wading through waist-deep water was a no from me. We paid 25 GEL per person (which is huge for a 20 second journey!), but 100% worth it in my opinion.

the infamous river crossing on leg 3 of the Mestia to Ushguli trek. A horse is carrying a man across a waist-deep river with mountains and a glacier in the background

If you arrive early, they likely will not have change, so try to bring exact money. Later on in the day, there were more hikers who all got a bit brave and created human chains to get each other across.

So, it may well be possible to cross without the horse, but I did not feel happy doing it myself.

On the other side of the river, the path begins to ascend up and over the mountain pass. It is solid up from here for a couple of hours, so brace yourself!

If you’re here before the ice and glacier has melted, get ready for some slipping and sliding and not actually being able to see the route. In mid-June we had to scale a section of the snow/glacier covering the path. Top tip: bring poles or grab yourself a stick to give yourself more leverage.

You might end up well off-piste like us, just keep heading towards this point here for a stunning view of the glacier across the valley. This view really is amazing. Take a right at this fork.

a view of a glacier in Adishi, Georgia

The ascent continues to be unforgivingly steep for another hour or so, BUT the views get better and better and better until you reach Chkhunderi Pass, today’s highest point.

This is the perfect spot to stop for a break with 360° views of snow-capped mountains.

If you’re feeling particularly energetic (we weren’t!), you can go slightly higher to the peak to get another view of the glacier before coming back on yourself.

I do not recommend continuing along the ridge and then heading down the other side. Two couples attempted this route and had to turn back because they said it was too steep and dangerous.

Maps.me has it named ‘potentially good way but barely visible’. So, yeah, if you go to the peak come back to the Chkhunderi Pass to head downwards.

Chkhunderi Pass over 2700m above sea level - green mountains topped with snow

It’s steep but manageable down towards the shepherd’s huts.

From here, take a right and follow the path alongside the river. It’s easy to follow and relatively flat, but you’ll have to jump over the odd stream (nothing too stressful).

The first village you reach is Khalde. There are a couple of guesthouses if you wanted to stop here. We continued for a couple of hours along this path that kind of felt like a road following the river through the valley.

Mestia to Ushguli trek

Most people stop in the next village along, Iprari/Iprali, or you can head to Lalkhori, like us.

It is only a thirty minute walk downhill. Take the left road downhill from this point and follow the path until you hit the ‘main road’.

You survived day 3!

Where to Stay in Lalkhori

We stayed at Guesthouse Robinzon Lalkhori (though their sign only says Guesthouse Lalkhori). This was definitely the nicest place we booked.

We had a large, comfy double bed with soft bedding and it was worth the little extra for the extra comfort after mammoth leg 3!

  • Dinner: 30 GEL per person
  • Breakfast: 20 GEL per person
  • Lunchbox: they just told us to take leftovers from breakfast!
  • Room rate: 73 GEL

🛏️ Reserve your room 🛏️

4. Lalkhori to Ushguli

  • Distance: 11.71km
  • Duration: 3.5h
  • Elevation gain: 598m
  • Total ascent: 4,71km
  • Total descent: 2.66km 
  • Highest point: 2191m

The easiest and least exciting leg, but you’re SO close to completing the hike!

Head up the road to about this point and take a left across the bridge and through Davberi village.

a stone bridge over a river leads the way to the hike from Lalkhori to Ushguli, Georgia

Jump over the stile and head upwards. It becomes pretty steep from here for about twenty minutes before opening out into meadows and then quickly turning to forest.

For the next hour or so, the path roughly follows the main road, just up the hillside taking you through very overgrown sections. I really disliked this part of the hike because there were loads of bugs and cobwebs across the path.

It then comes back down to the main road here and you can either just walk along the road or a path just up the bank beside the road. In about thirty minutes, you’ll reach Ushguli!

famous stone towers of Ushguli - Europe's highest settlement

If you’ve lost the will to live/hike on the last day, you could always just walk the main road or even get a lift. Yes, it’s absolutely cheating but it is an option too because this leg was very much forgettable.

There you have it: Mestia to Ushguli in four days!

Where to Stay in Ushguli

We didn’t end up staying in Ushguli, but Old Tower Guesthouse – Kafe Ushguli is somewhere that ticks all the boxes for a comfortable stay after trekking over 60 kilometres!

🛏️ Reserve your room 🛏️

It’s close to Cafe Svaneti which is a spot we would recommend for lunch. The woman at the restaurant was really lovely and helped us arrange a shared taxi to take us back to Mestia.

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FAQs

The route is only accessible for a short period of time over the warmer months.

In mid to late June, the trail should be largely open, everything is green and meadows are full of colourful wild flowers, but there is still a decent chance of rain. River levels are higher because of the rain and because there is still snow and ice melting from up in the mountains.

There are enough hikers on the trail that you don’t feel completely alone, but also not too many that you’re just walking in single file the whole way. July and August have the best weather: the lowest chance of rain but they are also the most popular months for other hikers.

September is a great month to hike. It’ll be slightly quieter on the trail and you’ll also start to see the colours of the trees changing to a nice autumnal vibe.

The first time we went to Mestia in late May a couple of years ago, the trail was not yet accessible.

In mid-June, we had to scramble up some sections of snow and ice, and the river level was pretty high for that infamous river crossing. I would not recommend hiking in May.

It’s tough enough that you’ll be aching for a couple of days after, but not so tough that it’s impossible. There are some severe and relentless ascents that very nearly killed me off, but it was absolutely worth it.

If you have moderate fitness, this hike is achievable. I would in no way shape or form say that we are ‘fit’. We had not done any exercise/hiking at least a year before us doing this trek, but we are relatively active in the sense that we have been backpacking for three years instead of having a sedentary lifestyle.

Download Maps.me and the Georgian map and then even if you do find yourself off the main trail, you can get yourself back. It’s a popular route, so you will more than likely see other hikers to check you’re heading in the right direction. Most people hike without a guide.

The route has some proper yellow signposts with destinations, times and distances, but you’ll also see red/yellow and white markers painted on rocks, trees, and paths for you to check that you’re on the right path.

There was some signage, but I wanted there to be more in all honesty.

Just make sure you research the route before you hike and then keep that open in Maps.me. FYI – taking Maps.me’s fastest route is not always the way to go because it can get pretty creative with what it deems a path!

The orange and green dashed paths on Maps.me are the most ‘proper’ paths, whereas the dotted paths are less ‘proper’. My advice would be to follow the most obviously beaten path, and to use Maps.me and other hikers as your guide.

Not really. We hiked with just our regular hiking boots and a non-hiking day pack. The one thing that I would recommend, though is absolutely not a necessity, is hiking poles. If you’re hiking early in the season like us, the poles will give that bit of extra stability when crossing rivers, climbing up glaciers etc

As little as possible! We did not want to be lugging unnecessary weight up and over these mountain passes!

We packed a couple of outfits for hiking and a set of warmer clothes and a light pair of shoes for the evenings because we knew we’d want to get our hiking boots off ASAP. We had a raincoat, a waterproof bag cover as well as a hat and plenty of sun protection (all of which we had to use!).

Whether the weather is beautiful or awful, you’ll be fully exposed on a lot of the hike.

We also packed a medical kit, bug spray, toilet paper and plenty of water and snacks. Stock up on snacks in Mestia before you leave because there aren’t many shops en route and if you find one, the prices will be huge!

We brought only the bare necessities in terms of toiletries, a power bank for during the hike and chargers/adaptors for when you arrive at the guesthouses. And more than enough cash because card payments are not accepted anywhere beyond Mestia.

Nope. Mestia is the last spot where you will be able to get cash. There is a Basis Bank which doesn’t charge withdrawal fees for foreign cards.

We booked our accommodation in advance so we knew how much needed for that expense – somewhere between 50 and 80 GEL per room per night. We budgeted another 30 GEL per person per night for dinner and another 30 GEL per person per night for breakfast.

A beer will cost about 10 GEL, and a bottle of coke maybe 5/6 GEL.

The river crossing cost 25 GEL per person but it depends on how the horse man is feeling that day.

The shared taxi back to Mestia cost 50 GEL per person.

We added this all up and allowed extra buffer for emergencies. It’s pricey, BUT you don’t have to accept all the meals. If you buy everything and added extras, you could spend about 500 GEL as a solo hiker, or 700 GEL for a couple.

We spent 573 GEL in cash (total for the both of us) during the four day hike.

So, Georgians do not get up early, which means that it’s difficult to convince your guesthouse hosts to have breakfast served any earlier than 08:00.

This means that realistically, by the time you have eaten, got everything sorted, and paid your host, you’ll be setting off between 08:30 and 09:00. This is what we did each day and it worked out ok for us.

The guesthouses provide dinner, breakfast, and a lunchbox of leftovers for an extra charge of around 60 GEL per person which is expensive.

We packed a tub of peanut butter plus a load of sweet and savoury snacks to keep us going in the day. And we only ever had breakfast, and instead had breakfast leftovers for dinner.

Breakfast undoubtedly involves khachapuri, boiled eggs, tomato, cucumber, bread, cheese, and jam. Leftover khachapuri, bread and cheese travel pretty well and are perfect hiking fuel!

Dinner on the other hand from what we saw was always meaty and therefore a difficult one for us.

We drank water from the tap in all the villages we visited and were fine.

Not really! We only saw one actually designated toilet area which was a platform with a hole in the ground and a curtain around it. In the busier season, there may be more cafes open en route that may have facilities, otherwise, it’s a case of finding a tree/big rock to hide behind.

We have a Magti SIM card with unlimited data for a month and I was amazed that we had full service on almost the entire hike! There were some sections where it flashed up saying ‘emergency calls only’, but overall, data and phone signal were available.

At all our guesthouses, we had wifi and electricity. There was, however, a scheduled power cut in Adishi, meaning that there was no electricity until about 16:00/17:00, but it wasn’t an issue.

It’s not a necessity, but it will make your life much easier. You know how much cash you need and you know that you have a bed reserved for the night.

A lot of the guesthouses are available to book through Booking.com in advance. Over the busiest months – July/August – I would definitely recommend booking in advance.

Yes! Maps.me has several places marked to help you plan where to stop. We saw several groups of people camping. BUT, if you camp, you have a shit ton of stuff to carry up and over the mountain passes, so choose wisely!

My least favourite part of the whole hike! Early in the season, the river is powerful and pretty high.

Guys from Adishi wait at the river crossing with their horses to help you cross the river and charge 25 GEL per person. Even for the horse, it’s deep and I still felt fully uncomfortable.

Other hikers did manage to get across the river themselves using hiking poles for support. Assess the situation when you arrive, and DO NOT take any chances.

Yes, you can but you are very much going against the flow. The guys with the horses for the river crossing tend to stay for the morning time as this is when the hikers from Adishi reach the river.

If you hike the other way, you will come to the river crossing nearer the end of the day. The guys aren’t aware that you’re coming from this way and so may not be there to help you with their horses.

Tbilisi to Mestia
This is a long old journey from one side of the country to the other. While there is the option to take a marshrutka, I just would not recommend it.

Instead, take the train from Tbilisi Central Station to Zugdidi; it leaves Tbilisi at 08:20 and arrives into Zugdidi at 15:10. Then spend the afternoon exploring Zugdidi, stay the night and then get the first marshrutka up to Mestia.

Zugdidi to Mestia
There are a couple of marshrutkas that head up to Mestia from Zugdidi, but there isn’t a proper schedule. It’s very much a case of turning up early to secure your seat and waiting for the marshrutka to fill up. They leave from the side of the road here. You’ll see a tree with a sign saying ‘Mestia’ and a small bench.

We turned up at 08:30 and were the first ones to pack up our stuff, and then the marshrutka was full and left by 09:45. Tickets cost 35 GEL and the journey lasts 4 hours.

Kutaisi to Mestia
If you’re already in Kutaisi, there is a direct marshrutka from the central bus station up to Mestia. We have not taken this journey, but when we were at Kutaisi Central, the sign said it leaves at 10:00.

I would get there at least an hour (or maybe even two) early to secure a seat, or try and buy a ticket a day in advance. We have taken this route the opposite way and it cost 40 GEL per person for the six hour journey.

The other possibility if you’d rather a less rough and bumpy journey, is to hire a driver through GoTrip to take you from Kutaisi up to Mestia. The winding roads are not all that comfortable in a marshrutka, so if you’re not on a tight budget, this is a great option!

Yes! Most guesthouses will let you leave your bags for free, particularly if you have a night booked with them after you get back from the hike.

There used to be a marshrutka that travelled this route, but all the locals told us that it didn’t exist anymore. Maybe that is true or maybe they just wanted us to pay more for a shared taxi.

Shared taxis hold three to four people and they charge 50 GEL per person which is extortionate for a one-hour journey, but there is no other option.

The road is in decent condition and winds down the mountain to Mestia, but the drivers can go pretty speedy. Don’t be afraid to ask him to slow down; you’re already paying a huge amount for this service.

Marshrutkas leave Mestia at 08:00 for all destinations: Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Zugdidi and even Batumi (depending on the demand). I recommend buying your tickets at least a day in advance and arriving at about 07:15 to get your seat.

Trust us, you do not want to be sat at the back for this journey down the mountain. It’s the only marshrutka route in Georgia that has given us motion sickness on both occasions!

Again the other possibility if you’d rather a less rough and bumpy journey, is to hire a driver through GoTrip to take you from Mestia back down to Kutaisi. The winding roads are not all that comfortable in a marshrutka, so if you’re not on a tight budget, this is a great option!

We came across two during our journey: one that was super friendly and just wandering around more like a stray than a working dog, and one that was very aggressive but was chained up because of this.

So, what do you reckon? Are you giving it a go? Message us on Instagram or email us on hello@relentlessroaming.com if you have any more questions!

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