This is the question that I asked myself before planning our trip to Gori. Is it right to go to the Stalin museum? The controversial museum that paints the life of Stalin in pink and conveniently scoots over his huge portfolio of atrocities? Even the little logo for the museum website is a friendly-looking cartoon of Stalin. Here’s everything you need to know to come to your own conclusion.

What is in the museum?

The Stalin museum is in a very grand stone building that is completely out of keeping with the rest of the buildings in Gori. The entrance hall is large and open with marble pillars leading the way up to a set of red-carpeted stairs with a huge statue of Stalin at the top.

It’s all a bit dramatic.

The portion of the museum inside the building consists of photos, paintings, maps and artefacts depicting the sugar-coated version of Stalin’s life. There is then a room full of extravagant gifts that world leaders had presented to Stalin, and la pièce de résistance: the death mask. In the centre of a darkened, empty room, and surrounded by white pillars, is a mask of Stalin’s face. This is a shrine, no doubt about it.

Downstairs, is a small and newly added room with photos and info on the Russian occupation in 2008. To me, this felt as though it was added as a middle finger up to the museum’s critics. The museum might not be reflecting a full picture of Stalin but they do have a small section about the most recent Russian occupation. It just doesn’t fit; and there isn’t much info.

Outside is the building where Stalin was born, and his private train carriage; both of which you can enter as part of your museum ticket.

Why is it so controversial?

The museum was built in 1957 (soon after Stalin’s death in 1953), and it feels like the exhibits have stayed the same since the point where Gori was feeling nostalgic for beloved ‘Uncle Joe’. While the rest of the country was going through a period of de-Stalinisation, Gori was erecting a shrine. 

We took the guided tour and there was not a single mention of anything negative.

Now, we all know that there is a hell of a lot of negative to say about this guy, but this museum doesn’t feel the need to give any info. No gulags, no enforced collectivisation, no Holodomor.

As far as the museum is concerned, Stalin was the great leader of the Soviet Union and therefore got Georgia and Gori recognised. He was so great, that leaders from around the world gave him loads of over-the-top gifts: look, we have a whole a room of these gifts to prove it to you. 

The Stalin museum feels like classic Soviet propaganda.

What is the feeling towards Stalin in Gori today?

There seems to be some nostalgia in regards to Stalin, while many others see him for the pain that he caused. It is a hugely divisive issue in Gori.

Our tour guide told us about her advocating to change place names in the city such as Stalin Park, Stalin Avenue etc. However, these suggestions were met with pushback. Others argue that Stalin is what is keeping Gori on the tourist map, and that Stalin Avenue, Stalin Park and the controversy surrounding them, helps to bring in this dark tourism. 

There are so many other reasons to visit Gori. Read all about it here.

How much does entry cost?

A ticket costs 15 GEL. This includes a guided tour of the museum in the building, as well as Stalin’s train carriage and house outside. You can pay by card or cash.

Do I need a guide in the museum?

Yes.

And the guide is included in your ticket price, so you should definitely take the tour. It’s not a great tour, but there is little to no information in English in the museum if you were to go around by yourself.

Our tour guide sounded as though she had recorded herself giving the whole spiel, and had just hit ‘play’. So, don’t expect to receive huge insight into the life of Stalin from your guide, but you’ll be learning more than if you had to go and decipher the Georgian info yourself.

We visited in the off-season in Jan, and when we arrived and bought our tickets, we were told that we would have to pay 20 GEL for a guide because we were just two people, and no one else was visiting.

We said ‘no, ta. We’ll wait’. So we waited for maybe thirty minutes. No one else turned up, but they caved and gave us a guided tour anyway. The ticket desk shows that the guided tour is included, so stand your ground if this happens to you too!

How do I get there?

Gori is an easy journey from Tbilisi taking just over an hour whether you travel by train or marshrutka.

We took the 08:50 from Tbilisi Central Station and arrived into Gori just after the 10:00. The ticket price was 8 GEL (+1 GEL online booking fee if you book through TKT.ge). Once you get off the train, walk across the abandoned tracks and head over the bridge into town.

Regular marshrutkas also head to Gori each day. Get to Didube bus station (brace yourself, it’s manic) which is easily accessible by metro, and ask for Gori. Someone will point you to the right van. Pay on the bus in cash. It will likely be around the same price as the train (between 5 and 10 GEL).

Gori bus station is in the north of the city and is a good 30 minute walk into the centre. Local buses will take you into the centre; just ask around at the bus station.

Find everything you need ot know about marshrutka travel in Georgia in this guide.

Is it worth visiting?

Yes, it is worth visiting IF you recognise that you need to take everything you learn inside with a pinch of salt. The museum itself isn’t so interesting that I would recommend making a special trip out here. However, if you are planning on visiting Gori (which I thoroughly recommend for anyone interested in historical cities and street photography), it’s a no-brainer.

Kutaisi is big on the restaurant and cafe scene, and a lot are in really interesting buildings: retro spaces with high ceilings, vintage decor, unassuming hidden nooks, riverside balconies, artwork from floor to ceiling. But it’s not ‘all style, no substance’. Some of the tastiest meals we have had in Georgia have been in Kutaisi!
This guide will pull together all our favourites, from the really budget places, to the no-quite-so-budget-but-still-budget-enough. You are sure to easily eat vegetarian in Kutaisi and not break the bank, unless you go to the Indian (but they serve some seriously good food there!).

Looking for things to do in Kutaisi, too? Check out this blog post.

And if you’re heading to Tbilisi next, find all the best spots for vegetarian food here.

Vegetarian in Kutaisi: Retro Restaurants

El Depo and El Paso for the Best Mushroom Khinkali

El Paso is a Georgian restaurant situated right on the main Colchis roundabout. It serves really tasty and soupy mushroom khinkali for a very small price – when we were there, the price was 80 tetri each. Because it is on the roundabout though, you are likely to find more tourists here, so for a more local feel, head over the river to the other branch, El Depo.

Sisters

Sisters is a beautiful restaurant tucked away on the first floor of what looks like a residential building. The restaurant has high ceilings, retro decor, and has live music (singing or piano playing, or both) in the evenings.  Give the pkhali, lobio, and ajapsandali a go. Good food in a characterful setting.

Story

Another restaurant with quirky interior, almost a 1920s feel about it. Story is situated about a ten minute walk out of the centre of town down the river, and with its lovely outdoor seating area overlooking the river Rioni, it’s the perfect spot for a drink. Try the lobiani, elarji, and our favourite; the mushrooms chips with coriander and mashed potato too.

The Biryani House

Some of the best Indian food that we have had outside of India. The food is fresh and the flavours are punchy, but not too heavy. The restaurant is a little further outside of the centre – about a 40 minute walk, but you could easily grab a Bolt to get you there for a few lari. They accept cash payment only, and are a little more pricey than the veggie dishes served elsewhere. But, the taste is outrageous and definitely worth the extra journey and extra money.

Palaty

Palaty is the only restaurant that we found in Kutaisi without service charge. We have had a couple of great meals here – khachapuri, pkhali, and mushroom soup. Or order yourself a bottle of wine and a plate of their local Imeretian cheese and have yourself a wine and cheese night! Really relaxed atmosphere with friendly staff.

Magnolia

Magnolia is set in another beautiful traditional building overlooking the river. There is an outside seating area with the traditional lacy-style blue balconies – try to snatch yourself a table here, right on the water! The vegetarian food here is really tasty. Try the Adjarian lobiani – the bread boat is really filled with the spiced bean mix and then topped with a variety of pickles. And the beetroot pkhali from here is a must too!

Cafe Newport

Cafe Newport is located inside a fancy hotel, and it definitely has that fancy feel about it. But the prices of the vegetarian food don’t reflect a fancy price tag. Try the ajapsandali, mushroom ojakhuri and the Adjarian khachapuri with spinach. Lovely stuff.

Vegetarian in Kutaisi: Cute Cafes

Cafe Sanimusho

Chris’ favourite spot for a ponchiki. Every time we walked past, he stopped in to grab one. This small bakery serves coffee and drinks as well as freshly baked sweet and savoury goods, and has a lunch deli section. Prime location in the centre of town.

Mini Art Cafe

Across the river, just outside of the main part of town, Mini Art Cafe is a small space covered with art from floor to ceiling. The space has a few tables inside and a few outside, and it is probably my favourite cafe in Kutaisi because of its character! They serve great coffee, and filled croissants to have with it – perfect. Maybe give the veggie breakfast a miss though.

Tea House Foe Foe

This cafe isn’t run by the friendliest people, but it’s worth going for a coffee just to see the place. It has such a unique decor – the cafe is set on a grand retro staircase, with tables and chairs arranged literally on the steps.

Mio

The best ice cream in town! Between us, we must have tried all of the flavours here. We always had to walk past Mio to get to our apartment in Kutaisi, and so naturally, we had to stop in each time.

Bread and Wine

Located inside the Green Bazaar, Bread and Wine serves (you guessed it) fresh bread baked in a traditional tone (similar to a tandoor oven) and wine. The fresh shoti really is perfect from here!

Biblus

I’d say this is the best spot in town for remote working. Tall ceilings, big windows, plenty of power outlets, good wifi, and good coffee. All the boxes ticked.

Cafe Gardenia

This cafe seems to only be open during the warmer months. Seating is placed along the river front, and is a lovely spot within the city centre to have a reasonably priced glass of wine overlooking the water.

Vegetarian restaurants or restaurants with vegetarian options are actually not too difficult to come by. You may be surprised, (we were!), that Georgian cuisine is actually vegetarian-friendly, unlike its other Caucasian neighbours.

Traditional Georgian cuisine has many dishes that are naturally vegetarian and even vegan, so there will be no awkward meals where the only items you can order are a salad and some chips. You’ll actually have options to choose from, which is definitely a luxury!

We travelled all around Georgia for six months, spending about two of these in Tbilisi, which definitely feels like a second home to us now! Georgian food really has to be one of THE most underrated cuisines, and while Tbilisi does an excellent job of showcasing its traditional food, it also has some fully vegan restaurants and plenty of really good Thai restaurants. 

This vegetarian guide to Tbilisi will show you all the best restaurants for vegetarian and vegan options that won’t break the bank.

Looking for things to do in Tbilisi in between all the eating? Take a look at this post – 35 unique things to do in Tbilisi

And if you’re travelling more around the Caucasus, take a look at our vegetarian restaurant guide for Yerevan.

Service Charge and Taxes

Vegetarian Georgian food often has the lower price tags, while the Thai and vegan food will be a little more expensive, but still reasonable.

One thing to be aware of, is that Georgian restaurants usually have a non-negotiable service charge. 10% is the norm, but make sure you check before ordering. We have seen some restaurants with a 20% service, or some with 10% service plus 18% VAT.

Top Tip – ‘The Law of Lobio’

My top tip for determining whether a restaurant’s prices are reasonable is to use ‘the law of lobio’. Lobio is a vegan spiced bean stew which is delicious. I could eat it for breakfast, lunch and dinner with some fresh shoti! This is not a proper recognised law (I know, you’re shocked), but it is a great benchmark for prices.

Anyway over the six months we spent in Georgia, we ate our fair share of lobio, and it should cost anywhere between 8 and 12 GEL (as of 2023). If the lobio is wildly more expensive than this, I’d say it’s a key indicator that you’re at a pricey joint.

Vegetarian Guide to Tbilisi

The Local Spots

Ortachala

A little out of the main part of the city, Ortachala doesn’t tend to get many tourists. The prices are decent and the food is great. Make sure you order the stewed mushrooms with tarragon. They’re not actually stewed, but are fried until chewy and meaty and, I kid you not, they remind me of salt and pepper ribs from a Chinese takeaway back home! Lobio, khachapuri, aubergine rolls with walnut spread, everything we had was great.

Georgian House

This looks like a fancy establishment when you walk in, and we were expecting the prices of the food to reflect that. However, the prices seemed on par with other restaurants that we had visited. There was live singing and music and the food was all tasty. Lobio, pkhali and oyster mushrooms with a litre of homemade wine. Yes, please!

Cafe Daphna

Our top pick for the Georgian khinkali (essentially big soupy dumplings). It doesn’t get much better than the garlicky mushroom khinkali and the dambalkhacho gooey blue cheese crisp khinkali. Lovely.

Racha

Set in what feels like a basement wine cellar, Racha is perfect for an inexpensive but tasty meal. Try the punchy ajapsandali, classic Georgian salad with walnut dressing and a lobio. There is no service charge and only cash payment is accepted.

Funicular

Again, another one that looks like it would be dead posh and expensive. And I’m sure if you ordered the meaty dishes, it would be. However, the veggie bakery bits aren’t pricey.

Located in Mtatsminda Park, you’ll need to either earn your meal by hiking up all the steps from town or get the funicular up. Try the donut filled with spiced potato, and the donut filled with cream (known as a ponchiki).

Klike’s Khinkali

Another basement restaurant that serves good khinkali filled with mushroom, and cheesy potato. The only thing to note here, is that the service is 18%. But even still, a meal of khinkali is inexpensive.

Wine Line Cellar

The least expensive sit down meal that we had during our time in Tbilisi was here. Lobio, Adjarian khachapuri and aubergine walnut spread rolls for 20 GEL (less than £7) and it fed the two of us.

Radio Cafe

A relaxed restaurant with streetside seating. The restaurant serves up a platter of three mini khachapuri of different varieties, just in case you can’t decide.

Gunda Bakery – now closed

It genuinely makes me sad that this bakery has closed; it was at the very top of my list. I’m leaving it on the list though as I am hopeful that it will reopen!

At the very top of your list needs to be Gunda Bakery. Specialising in the Georgian classic of khachapuri, and all its regional varieties, this is our favourite spot for Georgian cheesy, doughy perfection.

The Brunch/Lunch/Falafel Spots

Bagelin

This is THE place to go. The location in the centre of a car park seems a bit odd, and Google Maps isn’t sure on how to get there, but the bagels are outrageous! There is a whole section for vegan bagels, and there are plenty of veggie options too. We went for the ‘brekkie’ and the ‘mushy’ on adjika spiced bagels, and they were both divine.

Darani

A small and atmospheric underground restaurant that is fully vegan serves great falafel and hummus. Try the falafel pita with salad, hummus, pickles and tahini. Beautiful.

Falafel Box

A vegetarian restaurant serving Lebanese cuisine. You’ll find options such as shakshuka, tabbouleh, fattoush. We tried the falafel wrap and the scrambled egg wrap and both were tasty yet inexpensive.

Brunch and Dine

This small place serves some healthy and tasty food. Chia puddings, sandwiches, salads, brunches. Be wary of the secret 15% service charge.

Tumtum

Tumtum serves a tasty falafel wrap for a good price.

Iveria Cafe

This cafe has nice views over the city and serves breakfast/brunch at pretty reasonable prices. Scrambled egg, avo toast, good coffee: you can’t go wrong.

The Vegan Spots

Kiwi Vegan Café

We love a place where do you don’t have to double check with the server that your meal won’t turn up with meat in it. Shawarma, burgers, noodles, tofu! Since we have been travelling, finding a restaurant serving tofu is an absolute winner. They are one in a million. And they know what they’re doing.

Comfort Kitchen

A little pricier if you go for the main meals, but they sound amazing! On more of a budget, we went for the less expensive options. Sausage platter, hummus and falafel, chickpea tuna open sandwich: all great. And another thing to note is that the sell their tofu by weight for you to take away to cook yourself. It is really some beautifully textured, soft tofu.

The Sweet Spots

Uli

Uli is famous for its croffle, and I am not exaggerating when I tell you that we were both shocked at how delicious it is. The croffle is a croissant dough cooked in a waffle iron. Topped with a pistachio cream, caramel drizzle and raspberries, this was phenomenal.

The Thai Spots

The Thai food in Tbilisi is great, and there are loads of restaurants to choose from. Our favourite spots were Gamarjoba, Tom Yam and Pad Thai. Serving punchy curries and chewy noodles, you can’t really go wrong with what you order.

The Drink Spots

Cafe Linville

The entrance to this cafe/restaurant is enough reason to go. Open the doors and walk up the wonky staircase to the retro/grandma’s house decor. Order yourself a bottle of wine (like we did) or stay for a meal. But, honestly just visiting for a drink is an experience in itself.

Tipsy Bee Bar

Set in the heart of Tbilisi old town, this bar serves drinks and bar snacks. You will inevitably bump into other Brits here. Grab yourself a drink and the chips topped with mushroom stroganoff. Lovely.

Vera Garden

This cafe has an outside seating area (which isn’t so easy to come by in Tbilisi) and has a really relaxed atmosphere.

Chacha Time

Trying chacha in Georgia is a must. This bar serves the strong local spirit in different varieties and flavours.

Oohhh, Tbilisi. Georgia’s captivating capital city became our home away from home during our six month trip to explore the whole country. We ended up essentially living here for over two months because we fell head over heels for this authentic and welcoming city. There are so many unique things to do in Tbilisi, and I feel like we will always be adding to this guide because we will always be returning to this fascinating city. So, for the meantime, we’ll start with 35 things!

Tbilisi is a street photographer’s dream. Honestly.

Dilapidated, yet characterful buildings line the old cobbled streets. Rusted spiral staircases sit above communal courtyards with lacey-style balconies. Classic Ladas are parked outside tiny bakeries selling freshly baked shoti or lobiani, while friendly stray dogs wait outside hoping to be thrown the end of the bread. Intricate street art murals and Soviet mosaics decorate otherwise empty walls. Bright orange persimmon hang from the trees well into December, bringing a bit of colour to the leafless trees.

But even if street photography isn’t your thing Tbilisi has many unique things to see, experience, eat and drink. Our favourite capital city, and our second home, I am feeling the pressure to do this beautiful city justice. Without further ado, here are our 35 unique things to do in Tbilisi.

If you’re planning a winter trip to Tbilisi, give this post a read too!

Unique Things to Do in Tbilisi

Explore Sololaki for Street Photography Opportunities

The intricacy on the facades of these buildings is exquisite – and I don’t use this word lightly. This was an area of the city where the Bourgeoisie lived. Competition between neighbours to have the fanciest house was fierce, so you will find lacey balconies, detailed door ways, statues. But, the fanciness doesnt stop at the outside; the entrance ways to the buildings were richly decorated with marble, lavish staircases, and extravagant paintings on the ceilings and walls.

After all this time, the houses are still stunning with all their character, but are starting to deteriorate: a little bit wonky, paintwork peeling, staircases rusting. But (for me anyway), this even elevates their charm! 

Wander the streets with camera in hand and snap all the shots you want. Then, if a door is open or unlocked, step inside to see the entrance ways. The locals we met were more than welcoming for us to step inside (the entranceways are communal areas anyway). 

Take a Free Walking Tour (or Three!)

Tbilisi Free Walking Tours has three different free walking tours concentrating on different areas of the city. The guides are really informative, engaging, and passionate about Tbilisi. We were in the city for so long that we took all three, and we thoroughly enjoyed them all! 

If you only have time for one, make it the ‘Old Tbilisi Tour’. This is the classic tour where you learn all about the history of the city.

If you are more into the fancy entrance ways and facades like mentioned in the Sololaki paragraph, go for the ‘Hidden Tbilisi’ tour. You’ll get access inside entrance ways that you likely wouldn’t be able to by yourself, and they are stunning!

If you’re in to the classic courtyard culture of Tbilisi, take the ‘Backstreets of Tbilisi’ tour. The tour takes you into many residential areas over the other side of the river, in Chugureti near Fabrika.

Climb Betlemi Stairs for City Views from Upper Betlemi Church

Close to one of our favourite bars, The Tipsy Bee, is the start of Betlemi Stairs. Definitely stop in on the way up or down for a drink and mushroom stroganoff chips, and yes, they really are as good as they sound!

The stairs lead you to the Upper Betlemi Church and a large courtyard area with benches and trees. From here, you’ll get great views over the city.

Then for views from higher up, keep following the steps up to the Mother of Georgia monument.

Admire Mother of Georgia

Most ex-Soviet republics have a very propaganda-esque female statue made of metal standing high over a city as a protector, and Tbilisi is no exception. Mother of Georgia stands above Sololaki, above Upper Betlemi Church. You can reach her by climbing up Betlemi stairs and then continuing up, or the more popular option is to get the cable car up. Tickets cost 2.5 GEL if you tap your Tbilisi transport card, or are 3 GEL if you use a regular credit card.

Mother of Georgia is seen holding a bowl of wine to welcome those who are friendly, and a sword to ward off those who aren’t.

See Juma Mosque Minaret

The only mosque in Tbilisi, Juma Mosque stands tall overlooking Abanotubani sulphur bath area. Wander up the cobbled street to see the mosque and minaret, and then head behind the mosque and follow the narrow alleyways between buildings to get you to a spiral staircase. Head down the staircase and then look back up at the mosque for a great view of the minaret in amongst the traditional style buildings and balconies of Tbilisi old town.

Experience a Traditional Sulphur Bath with Optional Kisi Scrub

Tbilisi is located where it is today due its hot mineral springs; the city’s name literally means ‘warm place’. As you wander down Abanotubani, or towards the waterfall, you will smell the sulphur lingering in the air. 

The high mineral content of the water is understood to cure ailments, and so has been used for bathing for centuries. You’ll find many different baths with different styles and different ‘dress codes’, so definitely do your research before you throw yourself in!

It was a very intense, but also very interesting experience, and I would urge you to give it a go. I really do think it is one of the top unique things to do in Tbilisi. Check out our full blog post on how to help you feel more comfortable and prepared for your sulphur bath experience.

Admire the Mosaic Tiling of the Tbilisi’s Most-Photographed Bathhouse

If you just walked past Chreli Abano Bathhouse, you would likely think that it was a beautifully decorated mosque! Small mosaic tiles adorn the Islamic architectural style of the bathhouse’s façade. I’ve heard really good reviews about the whole bathhouse experience too, but it is definitely on the higher end compared to its neighbours.

Witness Tbilisi’s Leghvtakevi Waterfall

At the bottom of the spiral staircase (mentioned above with Juma Mosque), turn right and follow the paths to the end. Here you will find a waterfall! A waterfall in the middle of a capital city? Yes. Truly a unique thing to do in Tbilisi!

Try Wine Ice Cream

On the boardwalk towards the waterfall, you will find huts selling wine ice cream in the summer, and mulled wine in the winter. (I tried the wine ice cream in the winter too though!)

Explore Fabrika and Grab a Drink in the Courtyard

Fabrika is a cultural hub in the Chugureti neighbourhood set in a building that used to be a Soviet sewing factory. The courtyard is surrounded by a huge hostel with co-working space, as well as art studios, shops, and hipster bars and cafes with outdoor courtyard seating. The area is also used to host events: we attended a Christmas market here. And make sure you have a look at all the street art inside the courtyard as well as the surrounding buildings outside!

Search for all the Street Art

The street art in Tbilisi is really good. Huge life-like murals on the sides of buildings, smaller provocative pieces or fish with feet (you’ll know what I’m talking about once you get to Tbilisi!), you’ll be stumbling across street art wherever you go. Some pieces by Niko are marked on Google Maps, so give it a search. The hot zone for street art is around the Chugureti neighbourhood, near Fabrika, but you’ll be finding it everywhere you go in the city!

See the Colourful Stained Glass of Gallery 27

Gallery 27 is set in a traditional Tbilisi style apartment, and to get there you have to walk up an old set of stairs with walls surrounded in brightly coloured stained glass. And it’s something pretty special to see! At the moment, the building is undergoing restoration so the gallery has moved to a different location. BUT, it’s somewhere you’ll want to visit when it’s back up and running! In the meantime, however, Gallery 27 is absolutely still worth a visit. Selling beautiful products made by local people, it’s the perfect spot for a bit of souvenir shopping that gives back to the local community.

Wander over the Bridge of Peace

The glass and metal wave-shaped structure appears very modern compared to its surroundings of the old town. Hilariously, the bridge is also known as ‘Always Ultra’ due to its sanitary pad shape! Across the bridge you can get nice views down the river lined with trees, but also interesting photos from within the bridge due to its unusual design.

Bargain for Retro Souvenirs at the Dry Bridge Market

This market feels like a smaller, less organised version of Vernissage in Yerevan. It’s full of antiques, Soviet paraphernalia, and handmade and second hand products. I found a pair of earrings made from a couple of old keys that I absolutely love!

Take the Steps up to Mtatsminda Pantheon

Another great viewpoint of the city, Mtatsminda Pantheon is actually a cemetery for Georgia’s loved public figures: writers, poets, actors, and artists. As well as admiring the view, take a look around at the gravestones; you’ll find some very extravagant and flamboyant stonework. Then carry on up the steps to reach Mtatsminda Park.

Savour the Panoramic Views from Mtatsminda Park

Common in ex-Soviet cities, you’ll find a fairground on top of a hill which is connected to the city by a cable car (or in Tbilisi’s case, an expensive funicular). Head up here for the city views, but stay for the ponchiki! At the top of the hill is a super fancy looking restaurant called Funicular that we wouldn’t normally even step foot in because you can just tell it has that ‘way out of our budget’ feel about it. However, the ponchiki is reasonable (and bloody good), so order yourself a ponchiki and sit on the balcony, and soak in the outrageous views of the city. (A ponchiki is essentially a big old donut filled with a vanilla cream.)

To use the funicular to get up to the park, you have to buy a rechargeable Mtatsminda card for 2 GEL, and then top it up with credits to use the funicular, get on the ferris wheel etc., but it is not cheap. The funicular journey is 10 GEL each, so you’re much better off walking up from the city. It shouldn’t take too long – maybe 30/40 minutes – and you can break it up with a stop at Mtatsminda Pantheon. Use Maps.me to show you the route.

There is no fee to enter the park, only if you want to go on the rides: they cost anywhere from 50 tetri to 6 GEL. You can buy and top up the card when you are inside the park as well as at the funicular desk.

Wander through Meidan Bazaar

This bazaar is an interesting see even if you don’t plan on buying anything, though you might be tempted! Set in an underground brick tunnel, you’ll find typical Georgian products here: wine, cheese, churchkela (more on that further down), traditional instruments, souvenirs etc.

Discover your New Favourite Artist at the Georgian Museum of Fine Arts

We are not people with much appreciation for art, and the ticket price was more than we would have usually gone for but, we actually really enjoyed this art museum! Showcasing art by Georgian artists, there is some weird stuff (which is the problem I generally have with art), but there was also a lot that we could actually appreciate. The beautiful Georgian city street scenes were my favourites!

Ticket price: 18 GEL

Take in the City Views from Tabor Monastery of Transfiguration

The monastery itself is not the reason to head up here – it’s pretty small and unassuming. The reason to go up here is the phenomenal view without the crowds, and it’s worth the climb up all the steps!

See the Ancient Inscriptions on Metkehi Virgin Mary Assumption Church

Another historic church with old inscriptions on the outside walls. Raised high enough to give beautiful views of the city and river Kura, but not so high that you have to really climb to get there.

Walk the Wooden Balcony of Queen Darejan Palace

The palace has free entry because there’s not too much palace to it really; it’s more of a fortress. But, for a free entry, this is a great stop to add to your Tbilisi itinerary. You’ll find a beautiful rose garden with a pond, and then a blue, wooden, lacey balcony with great views. If you’re looking for a relatively quiet spot to take some stunning photos, this is the place! This is still relatively unknown to tourists, so you would likely have the place to yourself.

Find the Ruins of an Armenian Church

After you’ve seen the palace, wander the residential streets behind for some characterful doors, and eventually the ruins of an Armenian church. And when I say ruins, I really mean ruins. The building is in serious disrepair and is cordoned off, but it is an interesting sight nonetheless. Armenia says it was bombed, Georgia says it was damaged in an earthquake. Who knows?

Stroll amongst the Chronicles of Georgia

The Chronicles of Georgia is a monument commemorating 3000 years of Georgian statehood and 2000 years of being a Christian state. Sixteen huge stone and bronze pillars are covered with depictions of significant stories throughout the country’s history. The site is on top of a hill in the northern part of Tbilisi, overlooking what is named ‘Tbilisi Sea’, even though it is a reservoir. Climb the steps, be amazed by the monument, take in the views of the city and the sea, and also make sure you take a quick peek inside Annunciation Church on the hill too! 

I would recommend getting a Bolt there and back, or at least to and from the closest metro station. The neighbourhood didn’t feel the most friendly, and there are some ferocious stray dogs.

Marvel at the Wedding Palace Architecture

A prime example of opulent yet cold Soviet architecture. The wedding palace isn’t open to the public as standard, however, I understand that they have started running tours of the inside recently. If you have been on this tour or know about it, please let us know in the comments.

Search for Soviet Mosaics and Friezes

This is a controversial one, and some Soviet mosaics are being removed because of their representation of this oppressive period. They are in true retro propaganda style, and some are huge and intricate. We used this GeoAir map to find their locations around the city. Our favourites were at the emergency services building and the Ortachala bus station. Conveniently, these are both close to each other, so even though they are out of the main part of the city, you can see them both in one hit. The intricacy and detail in each one is worth the walk.

Explore Residential Tbilisi for More Street Photography Opportunities

On Google Maps find the area between Abanotubani and Ortachala, and that’s where you should head. You’ll see the untouristy side of Tbilisi: authentic and genuine. We rented an apartment here for five weeks over Christmas, and really loved the laid-back, non-touristy feel of the place. Classic Ladas, rusted house signs, and Soviet-style apartment blocks.

Learn All About Traditional Georgian Wine at the Wine Museum

This was a fascinating museum (not just because we like the wine!). It is set in a grand building that used to be a caravanserai on the ancient Silk Road, but has since been renovated. Tickets cost 15 GEL which includes a guided tour. Our guide was really knowledgeable, giving us all the history of winemaking as well as anecdotes.

My absolute favourite thing we learnt is to do with why we clink glasses together before we drink. Back in the olden days, wine was served in wide and shallow bowls. Before drinking your wine, you would clink the bowls together which would splash some of everyone’s wine into everyone else’s wines. And this would prove that your host had not poisoned your wine. Fascinating, eh?

Top tip – After the tour, ask at the bar if you can have a few free tasters of some wine that they have open at the moment. You might just get lucky like us!

Truly a unique thing to do in Tbilisi, learning about the history of wine in the world’s oldest wine-making country, is an absolute must!

Learn about Georgia’s Tea History

Bitadze Tea Shop is more than just a shop. Yes, you can buy Georgian teas here, but there is also a mini museum inside. The guys who work there have loads of knowledge on Georgia’s history of growing tea, and will talk you through it for free. And afterwards you could even try some of the teas! Bear in mind that Georgian tea is strong, so you won’t need much of it!

Search for All the Artwork in the Unfound Door Hotel

This is a hotel with a cafe/bar inside, but the best part about this place is the décor. It has beautifully painted murals throughout the property from the early 20th century. Head in through the front door, and see the hallway, take a look in the cafe on the right, but make sure you take the stairs all the way up to see the murals in the stair well.

Be Bemused by the Wonky Clock Tower

The clock tower is quirky and wonky, and a small angel marks the turn of each hour by ringing a bell. It is a relatively new addition to Tbilisi old town, built in 2010. Make sure you take a look for the tiny clock on the side of the clock tower too!

View the Grandeur of the Holy Trinity Cathedral

This is a huge cathedral that has a dramatic outlook, grand courtyard, and golden topped domes. It really is pretty extravagant, and is definitely worth a visit, even if you’re not into religious buildings. The symmetry of the outside alone makes for some great photos!

Gorge on Khinkali and Khachapuri

You cannot leave Georgia without tasting the lip-smacking carby goodness of khinkali and khachapuri. Khinkali are large soupy dumplings filled with meat and herbs, however, there are mushroom options which are spot on! And then, where do I even start with khachapuri? Beautifully chewy bread stuffed or topped (or sometimes both) with salty, stringy, creamy cheeses. Find varieties with greens and herbs, eggs on top, boiled eggs inside, or maybe potatoes added into the mix. My love for khachapuri is intense, so much so that I made it my mission through our six months in the country to try as many regional variations as I could get my hands on. Full blog post is in the works.

Get a Fresh Shoti or Lobiani from the Local Bakery

Georgian bread is something of an institution. Nothing compares, in my opinion – not even French breads. I know that’s a big statement, but really, head over to Georgia and tell me I’m wrong! 

Local bakeries throughout the country will bake long boat-shaped breads in a tone (similar to a tandoor oven). This results in a crisp bottom (that sticks to the tone) and a fluffy chewy top. The bread is so good, that you will often see people biting off the end of the bread as they leave the bakery because they can’t wait til they get home! 

Many of the bakeries also sell lobiani, which is a bread stuffed with a spiced bean mixture. We lived off of these – it’s a whole on-the-go-meal. Stunning stuff.

Taste the Georgian Wines and the Local Chacha

Georgia is where is recognised as the birthplace of wine, thanks to the finding of the oldest winemaking vessels in the world, right here. So they really do know how to do wine. My favourites are Tsinandali, Pirosmani, and Tsolikauri – all whites. If you are more into reds, the best known and favourite is Saperavi. You can find Georgian wine in all restaurants and bars, so no need to go for an expensive wine tasting in the city. Make sure you visit the Tbilisi wine museum (a few points up in the list). Alternatively, jump in a marshrutka for two and a half hours to get to Telavi or Sighnaghi in Kakheti wine region. You can tour the vineyards, and learn all about the grapes and its history.

Try Georgian Snickers: Churchkela

I guarantee that when you are walking around Tbilisi, you will see churchkela strung up in shops and market stands. On first sight, you might think it looks like candles, or maybe some weird sausage (like us). It definitely does not look like a sweet! In fact churchkela is known as ‘Georgian snickers’ due to its high calorie content. Traditionally, a string of walnuts is dipped into a mixture of grape juice mixed with flour to create the churchkela. But nowadays there are many different varieties and flavours with different fruits and nuts.

Georgia is a very well-connected country. Trains connect major cities, and marshrutkas largely pick up the slack for getting you to other locations around the country. You’ll be able to find train timetables online, but marshrutka timings are a mystery unless you speak to locals or other travellers that have taken the same route.

Before we got to Georgia, I had read a lot of less than shining reviews of Georgian drivers, in particular marshrutka drivers.

Were our experiences as terrifying as the reviews had made out that they would be? Absolutely not, not even close. And we took loads of marshrutkas all around the country over six (ish) months.

Our experiences were largely positive, but there definitely were some hair-raising moments, bouts of serious motion sickness, and times where we nearly fell out of our seats. But, you know, it’s all part of the authentic Georgian experience, and really, you haven’t properly been to Georgia if you haven’t had at least one marshrutka ride!

This Georgia transport guide will help you prepare for the marshrutka madness on your next trip to this astounding country.

So what is a marshrutka?

A marshrutka is essentially a minivan. You generally find them in ex-Soviet republics – the Stans, the Caucasus and some in Eastern Europe. They travel a set route from A to B, have very little leg room or luggage space and are usually the cheapest transport option.

How well-connected are the cities?

If you are in Tbilisi, you will be able to get a direct route to almost anywhere in the country. If you’re in Batumi or Kutaisi, you will (more or less) be able to get anywhere in the west of the country. For other smaller locations, you will largely be able to get to other relatively nearby locations. So for example, you’re in Kutaisi and you want to get to Telavi in the very east: you will have to go to Tbilisi and change marshrutka. All roads quite literally lead to Tbilisi.

Where can I find timetables?

Now, this is a tricky one because timetables don’t really exist online. There isn’t anything official, but you’ll be able to find information for your next destination once you are at the bus station. Your other option is to ask locals, check with your accommodation host, or read up on articles like ours about destinations in Georgia. Basically, you need to find people in the know.

We have had many accommodation hosts in smaller towns or villages literally call the driver to check timings. I guess there is maybe one guy who services the route.

When should I get to the bus station?

As a rule of thumb, we plan to get there twenty/thirty minutes early. This is a rule that we have stuck to throughout our travels so far and it works pretty nicely. It means you have time to find the right marshrutka and get your luggage packed up before others have arrived. However, it all depends on the rules of the specific marshrutka.

Every marshrutka, bar one, that we have taken in Georgia (and we’ve travelled around the country for near on six months) has left at a designated time. Some, however, just leave when they are full, or when they have enough money from the passengers to make it worth them taking the journey.

We took a marshrutka from Zugdidi up to Mestia that was meant to leave around 12, that actually ended up leaving at 10:45. The only reason we arrived this early was because I had read up online that the Zugdidi Mestia marshrutkas leave when full, so we got there an hour and a half early. Good job we did this!

Are there marshrutka stations?

So where do you get the marshrutka from? The bus station. Georgia doesn’t really have many intercity buses or coaches. But the stations from which you get your marshrutka are referred to as ‘bus stations’, even though they are really marshrutka stations. Some cities will have a bus station that is just a couple of marshrutkas parked up at the side of the road, others are absolute mayhem like Didube in Tbilisi. You will usually be able to find the bus station locations on Maps.me or Google Maps, but not always. If in doubt, just ask around: Georgians are really helpful and friendly.

Which Tbilisi station should I go to?

Tbilisi was the only city we came across that had several different stations servicing different areas of the country, so bear that in mind. 

Marshrutkas leaving from Didube head to most of the country. If you’re going to Kazbegi, Mtskheta, Gori, Borjomi, and further west in the country: head to Didube.

If you are heading to anywhere in the Kakheti region or over to the east, these marshrutkas leave from Ortachala. Some people may tell you to pick it up from Isani, but that’s not actually where the marshrutkas depart from: they just stop here to pick people up. So, if you have luggage, want to secure yourself a seat, or are just unsure about flagging down a marshrutka, go to Ortachala ahead of time instead. The closest metro station is called Isani. From here, it is a twenty minute walk downhill to Ortachala.

These are the two stations that service the majority of the country, but there are also other odd places around Tbilisi. For example, we have seen signs for marshrutkas to Mestia leaving from the car park in front of Tbilisi Central Train station. If in doubt, ask a local. Didube and Ortachala are absolutely nowhere near each other, so you don’t want to go to the wrong one by accident.

How do I find the right marshrutka?

Marshrutkas have a sign in the windscreen showing the final destination. But depending on how touristy your destination is, depends on whether it is shown in Georgian or English. Heading to Gori or Batumi: easy, they will show in English. Heading to Duisi or Chiatura: not so easy, they will show in Georgian.

When you enter the bus station, people will inevitably approach you to find out if you are planning on getting their marshrutka. Say your destination, and they will point you in the right direction. In our experience, even taxi drivers (who obviously want you to take their transport instead of the marshrutka) have pointed us to the right vehicle. Follow it up with a ‘madloba!’, which means ‘thank you’ in Georgian.

Top tip: learn how to properly pronounce your destination, and take a screenshot of how it is written in the Georgian alphabet. Marshrutka drivers tend not to have a great understanding of English.

How do I pay for the ride?

Now this can vary, but the common factor is that you will always have to pay in cash. Sometimes, you have to pay at a ticket desk at the bus station, and then show the driver the ticket. Sometimes, you pay the driver in cash when you get on the marshrutka at the bus station. Sometimes, and this is the most common, you just pay the driver when you get off the marshrutka. Try to have more or less correct change for the driver. Paying for a 5 GEL trip with a 100 GEL note won’t go down too well. If one of the first two options are required, the driver will let you know.

How much does a journey cost?

Really not much at all. Travelling by marshrutka is the cheapest way (bar hitchhiking) to get around the country. An hour long trip to Gori, cost us 5 GEL. A four and a half hour mountain road trip up to Mestia cost us 40 GEL. The most expensive that we have seen advertised is Mestia to Tbilisi at 50 GEL, but that is literally a journey from one end of the country to the other, so it’s not bad at all.

What if I need to get out before the final destination?

The marshrutka is driven a specific route, and you can get on or off at any point along this route. Just get out of your seat and tell the driver when you want to get off. We took a marshrutka from Ozurgeti, heading to Batumi, but got off half way at Kobuleti. We have even got out early because the marshrutka route was right past our accommodation, so instead of stopping at the bus station, we just jumped out five minutes early.

If you know the route that the marshrutka takes, you can even stand at the side of the road and just flag it down as it comes past. This is a little riskier though, purely because there might not be seats available. And if you have large backpacks like ours, it means it can cause some awkwardness as you try to squeeze into the already small marshrutka with them (you might get some disapproving looks!).

So what’s the situation with luggage?

This is where it can get awkward. Marshrutkas generally only have a tiny space behind the last row of seats to store luggage. Your bag will either be slid under the last row of seats or squeezed between the back of the seat and the back door. Sometimes though, there might be other people with luggage too, or the marshrutka might be dropping products off to someone en route (therefore no luggage space!). In this circumstance, get ready to do some jiggery pokery to get your bag in a position that doesn’t block the way for everyone else in the marshrutka. (I have genuinely had situations where I have had my knees round my ears, and had to have my 20 kg backpack on my knees for a full journey in Armenia. But that’s a story for another time.) For popular routes, Kutaisi to Mestia as an example, the marshrutka might have an extension that they attach to the back of the vehicle. You don’t have to pay extra for your luggage.

My advice is to pack light when visiting Georgia!

How uncomfortable is a marshrutka journey?

I guess it really depends on how long your legs are! I, at about 5’6’’, have no issues with leg room. Chris at 6’2’’ish usually has more difficulty and has to put his legs out into the aisle. Get prepared to get cosy with the other passengers, is my advice. Even when the seats are all full, the marshrutka will stop along the route to pick up others. There is always space for more in a marshrutka, even if it means standing. Marshrutkas are great for shorter journeys – maybe up to three hours. Anything longer, and I would recommend trying to get the train.

What is the road safety like?

So, marshrutka drivers go pretty quickly, and Georgian drivers overall aren’t the most cautious. There aren’t seatbelts in marshrutkas so hold on tight. Marshrutka journeys down winding mountain roads are the most difficult to stomach; we both ended up feeling ill and we don’t really get motion sickness.