Oohhh, Tbilisi. Georgia’s captivating capital city became our home away from home during our six month trip to explore the whole country. We ended up essentially living here for over two months because we fell head over heels for this authentic and welcoming city. There are so many unique things to do in Tbilisi, and I feel like we will always be adding to this guide because we will always be returning to this fascinating city. So, for the meantime, we’ll start with 35 things!

Tbilisi is a street photographer’s dream. Honestly.

Dilapidated, yet characterful buildings line the old cobbled streets. Rusted spiral staircases sit above communal courtyards with lacey-style balconies. Classic Ladas are parked outside tiny bakeries selling freshly baked shoti or lobiani, while friendly stray dogs wait outside hoping to be thrown the end of the bread. Intricate street art murals and Soviet mosaics decorate otherwise empty walls. Bright orange persimmon hang from the trees well into December, bringing a bit of colour to the leafless trees.

But even if street photography isn’t your thing Tbilisi has many unique things to see, experience, eat and drink. Our favourite capital city, and our second home, I am feeling the pressure to do this beautiful city justice. Without further ado, here are our 35 unique things to do in Tbilisi.

If you’re planning a winter trip to Tbilisi, give this post a read too!

Unique Things to Do in Tbilisi

Explore Sololaki for Street Photography Opportunities

The intricacy on the facades of these buildings is exquisite – and I don’t use this word lightly. This was an area of the city where the Bourgeoisie lived. Competition between neighbours to have the fanciest house was fierce, so you will find lacey balconies, detailed door ways, statues. But, the fanciness doesnt stop at the outside; the entrance ways to the buildings were richly decorated with marble, lavish staircases, and extravagant paintings on the ceilings and walls.

After all this time, the houses are still stunning with all their character, but are starting to deteriorate: a little bit wonky, paintwork peeling, staircases rusting. But (for me anyway), this even elevates their charm! 

Wander the streets with camera in hand and snap all the shots you want. Then, if a door is open or unlocked, step inside to see the entrance ways. The locals we met were more than welcoming for us to step inside (the entranceways are communal areas anyway). 

Take a Free Walking Tour (or Three!)

Tbilisi Free Walking Tours has three different free walking tours concentrating on different areas of the city. The guides are really informative, engaging, and passionate about Tbilisi. We were in the city for so long that we took all three, and we thoroughly enjoyed them all! 

If you only have time for one, make it the ‘Old Tbilisi Tour’. This is the classic tour where you learn all about the history of the city.

If you are more into the fancy entrance ways and facades like mentioned in the Sololaki paragraph, go for the ‘Hidden Tbilisi’ tour. You’ll get access inside entrance ways that you likely wouldn’t be able to by yourself, and they are stunning!

If you’re in to the classic courtyard culture of Tbilisi, take the ‘Backstreets of Tbilisi’ tour. The tour takes you into many residential areas over the other side of the river, in Chugureti near Fabrika.

Climb Betlemi Stairs for City Views from Upper Betlemi Church

Close to one of our favourite bars, The Tipsy Bee, is the start of Betlemi Stairs. Definitely stop in on the way up or down for a drink and mushroom stroganoff chips, and yes, they really are as good as they sound!

The stairs lead you to the Upper Betlemi Church and a large courtyard area with benches and trees. From here, you’ll get great views over the city.

Then for views from higher up, keep following the steps up to the Mother of Georgia monument.

Admire Mother of Georgia

Most ex-Soviet republics have a very propaganda-esque female statue made of metal standing high over a city as a protector, and Tbilisi is no exception. Mother of Georgia stands above Sololaki, above Upper Betlemi Church. You can reach her by climbing up Betlemi stairs and then continuing up, or the more popular option is to get the cable car up. Tickets cost 2.5 GEL if you tap your Tbilisi transport card, or are 3 GEL if you use a regular credit card.

Mother of Georgia is seen holding a bowl of wine to welcome those who are friendly, and a sword to ward off those who don’t. And I think this perfectly represents the Georgian people!

See Juma Mosque Minaret

The only mosque in Tbilisi, Juma Mosque stands tall overlooking Abanotubani sulphur bath area. Wander up the cobbled street to see the mosque and minaret, and then head behind the mosque and follow the narrow alleyways between buildings to get you to a spiral staircase. Head down the staircase and then look back up at the mosque for a great view of the minaret in amongst the traditional style buildings and balconies of Tbilisi old town.

Experience a Traditional Sulphur Bath with Optional Kisi Scrub

Tbilisi is located where it is today due its hot mineral springs; the city’s name literally means ‘warm place’. As you wander down Abanotubani, or towards the waterfall, you will smell the sulphur lingering in the air. 

The high mineral content of the water is understood to cure ailments, and so has been used for bathing for centuries. You’ll find many different baths with different styles and different ‘dress codes’, so definitely do your research before you throw yourself in!

It was a very intense, but also very interesting experience, and I would urge you to give it a go. I really do think it is one of the top unique things to do in Tbilisi. Check out our full blog post on how to help you feel more comfortable and prepared for your sulphur bath experience.

Admire the Mosaic Tiling of the Tbilisi’s Most-Photographed Bathhouse

If you just walked past Chreli Abano Bathhouse, you would likely think that it was a beautifully decorated mosque! Small mosaic tiles adorn the Islamic architectural style of the bathhouse’s façade. I’ve heard really good reviews about the whole bathhouse experience too, but it is definitely on the higher end compared to its neighbours.

Witness Tbilisi’s Leghvtakevi Waterfall

At the bottom of the spiral staircase (mentioned above with Juma Mosque), turn right and follow the paths to the end. Here you will find a waterfall! A waterfall in the middle of a capital city? Yes. Truly a unique thing to do in Tbilisi!

Try Wine Ice Cream

On the boardwalk towards the waterfall, you will find huts selling wine ice cream in the summer, and mulled wine in the winter. (I tried the wine ice cream in the winter too though!)

Explore Fabrika and Grab a Drink in the Courtyard

Fabrika is a cultural hub in the Chugureti neighbourhood set in a building that used to be a Soviet sewing factory. The courtyard is surrounded by a huge hostel with co-working space, as well as art studios, shops, and hipster bars and cafes with outdoor courtyard seating. The area is also used to host events: we attended a Christmas market here. And make sure you have a look at all the street art inside the courtyard as well as the surrounding buildings outside!

Search for all the Street Art

The street art in Tbilisi is really good. Huge life-like murals on the sides of buildings, smaller provocative pieces or fish with feet (you’ll know what I’m talking about once you get to Tbilisi!), you’ll be stumbling across street art wherever you go. Some pieces by Niko are marked on Google Maps, so give it a search. The hot zone for street art is around the Chugureti neighbourhood, near Fabrika, but you’ll be finding it everywhere you go in the city!

See the Colourful Stained Glass of Gallery 27

Gallery 27 is set in a traditional Tbilisi style apartment, and to get there you have to walk up an old set of stairs with walls surrounded in brightly coloured stained glass. And it’s something pretty special to see! At the moment, the building is undergoing restoration so the gallery has moved to a different location. BUT, it’s somewhere you’ll want to visit when its back up and running! In the meantime, however, Gallery 27 is absolutely still worth a visit. Selling beautiful products made by local people, it’s the perfect spot for a bit of souvenir shopping that gives back to the local community.

Wander over the Bridge of Peace

The glass and metal wave-shaped structure appears very modern compared to its surroundings of the old town. Hilariously, the bridge is also known as ‘Always Ultra’ due to its sanitary pad shape! Across the bridge you can get nice views down the river lined with trees, but also interesting photos from within the bridge due to its unusual design.

Bargain for Retro Souvenirs at the Dry Bridge Market

This market feels like a smaller, less organised version of Vernissage in Yerevan. It’s full of antiques, Soviet paraphernalia, and handmade and second hand products. I found a pair of earrings made from a couple of old keys that I absolutely love!

Take the Steps up to Mtatsminda Pantheon

Another great viewpoint of the city, Mtatsminda Pantheon is actually a cemetery for Georgia’s loved public figures: writers, poets, actors, and artists. As well as admiring the view, take a look around at the gravestones; you’ll find some very extravagant and flamboyant stonework. Then carry on up the steps to reach Mtatsminda Park.

Savour the Panoramic Views from Mtatsminda Park

Common in ex-Soviet cities, you’ll find a fairground on top of a hill which is connected to the city by a cable car (or in Tbilisi’s case, an expensive funicular). Head up here for the city views, but stay for the ponchiki! At the top of the hill is a super fancy looking restaurant called Funicular that we wouldn’t normally even step foot in because you can just tell it has that ‘way out of our budget’ feel about it. However, the ponchiki is reasonable (and bloody good), so order yourself a ponchiki and sit on the balcony, and soak in the outrageous views of the city. (A ponchiki is essentially a big old donut filled with a vanilla cream.)

To use the funicular to get up to the park, you have to buy a rechargeable Mtatsminda card for 2 GEL, and then top it up with credits to use the funicular, get on the ferris wheel etc., but it is not cheap. The funicular journey is 10 GEL each, so you’re much better off walking up from the city. It shouldn’t take too long – maybe 30/40 minutes – and you can break it up with a stop at Mtatsminda Pantheon. Use Maps.me to show you the route.

There is no fee to enter the park, only if you want to go on the rides: they cost anywhere from 50 tetri to 6 GEL. You can buy and top up the card when you are inside the park as well as at the funicular desk.

Wander through Meidan Bazaar

This bazaar is an interesting see even if you don’t plan on buying anything, though you might be tempted! Set in an underground brick tunnel, you’ll find typical Georgian products here: wine, cheese, churchkela (more on that further down), traditional instruments, souvenirs etc.

Discover your New Favourite Artist at the Georgian Museum of Fine Arts

We are not people with much appreciation for art, and the ticket price was more than we would have usually gone for but, we actually really enjoyed this art museum! Showcasing art by Georgian artists, there is some weird stuff (which is the problem I generally have with art), but there was also a lot that we could actually appreciate. The beautiful Georgian city street scenes were my favourites!

Ticket price: 18 GEL

Take in the City Views from Tabor Monastery of Transfiguration

The monastery itself is not the reason to head up here – it’s pretty small and unassuming. The reason to go up here is the phenomenal view without the crowds, and it’s worth the climb up all the steps!

See the Ancient Inscriptions on Metkehi Virgin Mary Assumption Church

Another historic church with old inscriptions on the outside walls. Raised high enough to give beautiful views of the city and river Kura, but not so high that you have to really climb to get there.

Walk the Wooden Balcony of Queen Darejan Palace

The palace has free entry because there’s not too much palace to it really; it’s more of a fortress. But, for a free entry, this is a great stop to add to your Tbilisi itinerary. You’ll find a beautiful rose garden with a pond, and then a blue, wooden, lacey balcony with great views. If you’re looking for a relatively quiet spot to take some stunning photos, this is the place! This is still relatively unknown to tourists, so you would likely have the place to yourself.

Find the Ruins of an Armenian Church

After you’ve seen the palace, wander the residential streets behind for some characterful doors, and eventually the ruins of an Armenian church. And when I say ruins, I really mean ruins. The building in serious disrepair and is cordoned off, but it is an interesting sight nonetheless. Armenia says it was bombed, Georgia says it was damaged in an earthquake. Who knows?

Stroll amongst the Chronicles of Georgia

The Chronicles of Georgia is a monument commemorating 3000 years of Georgian statehood and 2000 years of being a Christian state. Sixteen huge stone and bronze pillars are covered with depictions of significant stories throughout the country’s history. The site is on top of a hill in the northern part of Tbilisi, overlooking what is named ‘Tbilisi Sea’, even though it is a reservoir. Climb the steps, be amazed by the monument, take in the views of the city and the sea, and also make sure you take a quick peek inside Annunciation Church on the hill too! 

I would recommend getting a Bolt there and back, or at least to and from the closest metro station. The neighbourhood didn’t feel the most friendly, and there are some ferocious stray dogs.

Marvel at the Wedding Palace Architecture

A prime example of opulent yet cold Soviet architecture. The wedding palace isn’t open to the public as standard, however, I understand that they have started running tours of the inside recently. If you have been on this tour or know about it, please let us know in the comments.

Search for Soviet Mosaics and Friezes

This is a controversial one, and some Soviet mosaics are being removed because of their representation of this oppressive period. They are in true retro propaganda style, and some are huge and intricate. We used this GeoAir map to find their locations around the city. Our favourites were at the emergency services building and the Ortachala bus station. Conveniently, these are both close to each other, so even though they are out of the main part of the city, you can see them both in one hit. The intricacy and detail in each one is worth the walk.

Explore Residential Tbilisi for More Street Photography Opportunities

On Google Maps find the area between Abanotubani and Ortachala, and that’s where you should head. You’ll see the untouristy side of Tbilisi: authentic and genuine. We rented an apartment here for five weeks over Christmas, and really loved the laid-back, non-touristy feel of the place. Classic Ladas, rusted house signs, and Soviet-style apartment blocks.

Learn All About Traditional Georgian Wine at the Wine Museum

This was a fascinating museum (not just because we like the wine!). It is set in a grand building that used to be a caravanserai on the ancient Silk Road, but has since been renovated. Tickets cost 15 GEL which includes a guided tour. Our guide was really knowledgeable, giving us all the history of winemaking as well as anecdotes.

My absolute favourite thing we learnt is to do with why we clink glasses together before we drink. Back in the olden days, wine was served in wide and shallow bowls. Before drinking your wine, you would clink the bowls together which would splash some of everyone’s wine into everyone else’s wines. And this would prove that your host had not poisoned your wine. Fascinating, eh?

Top tip – After the tour, ask at the bar if you can have a few free tasters of some wine that they have open at the moment. You might just get lucky like us!

Truly a unique thing to do in Tbilisi, learning about the history of wine in the world’s oldest wine-making country, is an absolute must!

Learn about Georgia’s Tea History

Bitadze Tea Shop is more than just a shop. Yes, you can buy Georgian teas here, but there is also a mini museum inside. The guys who work there have loads of knowledge on Georgia’s history of growing tea, and will talk you through it for free. And afterwards you could even try some of the teas! Bear in mind that Georgian tea is strong, so you won’t need much of it!

Search for All the Artwork in the Unfound Door Hotel

This is a hotel with a cafe/bar inside, but the best part about this place is the décor. It has beautifully painted murals throughout the property from the early 20th century. Head in through the front door, and see the hallway, take a look in the cafe on the right, but make sure you take the stairs all the way up to see the murals in the stair well.

Be Bemused by the Wonky Clock Tower

The clock tower is quirky and wonky, and a small angel marks the turn of each hour by ringing a bell. It is a relatively new addition to Tbilisi old town, built in 2010. Make sure you take a look for the tiny clock on the side of the clock tower too!

View the Grandeur of the Holy Trinity Cathedral

This is a huge cathedral that has a dramatic outlook, grand courtyard, and golden topped domes. It really is pretty extravagant, and is definitely worth a visit, even if you’re not into religious buildings. The symmetry of the outside alone makes for some great photos!

Gorge on Khinkali and Khachapuri

You cannot leave Georgia without tasting the lip-smacking carby goodness of khinkali and khachapuri. Khinkali are large soupy dumplings filled with meat and herbs, however, there are mushroom options which are spot on! And then, where do I even start with khachapuri? Beautifully chewy bread stuffed or topped (or sometimes both) with salty, stringy, creamy cheeses. Find varieties with greens and herbs, eggs on top, boiled eggs inside, or maybe potatoes added into the mix. My love for khachapuri is intense, so much so that I made it my mission through our six months in the country to try as many regional variations as I could get my hands on. Full blog post is in the works.

Get a Fresh Shoti or Lobiani from the Local Bakery

Georgian bread is something of an institution. Nothing compares, in my opinion – not even French breads. I know that’s a big statement, but really, head over to Georgia and tell me I’m wrong! 

Local bakeries throughout the country will bake long boat-shaped breads in a tone (similar to a tandoor oven). This results in a crisp bottom (that sticks to the tone) and a fluffy chewy top. The bread is so good, that you will often see people biting off the end of the bread as they leave the bakery because they can’t wait til they get home! 

Many of the bakeries also sell lobiani, which is a bread stuffed with a spiced bean mixture. We lived off of these – it’s a whole on-the-go-meal. Stunning stuff.

Taste the Georgian Wines and the Local Chacha

Georgia is where is recognised as the birthplace of wine, thanks to the finding of the oldest winemaking vessels in the world, right here. So they really do know how to do wine. My favourites are Tsinandali, Pirosmani, and Tsolikauri – all whites. If you are more into reds, the best known and favourite is Saperavi. You can find Georgian wine in all restaurants and bars, so no need to go for an expensive wine tasting in the city. Make sure you visit the Tbilisi wine museum (a few points up in the list). Alternatively, jump in a marshrutka for two and a half hours to get to Telavi or Sighnaghi in Kakheti wine region. You can tour the vineyards, and learn all about the grapes and its history.

Try Georgian Snickers: Churchkela

I guarantee that when you are walking around Tbilisi, you will see churchkela strung up in shops and market stands. On first sight, you might think it looks like candles, or maybe some weird sausage (like us). It definitely does not look like a sweet! In fact churchkela is known as ‘Georgian snickers’ due to its high calorie content. Traditionally, a string of walnuts is dipped into a mixture of grape juice mixed with flour to create the churchkela. But nowadays there are many different varieties and flavours with different fruits and nuts.

Georgia is a very well-connected country. Trains connect major cities, and marshrutkas largely pick up the slack for getting you to other locations around the country. You’ll be able to find train timetables online, but marshrutka timings are a mystery unless you speak to locals or other travellers that have taken the same route.

Before we got to Georgia, I had read a lot of less than shining reviews of Georgian drivers, in particular marshrutka drivers.

Were our experiences as terrifying as the reviews had made out that they would be? Absolutely not, not even close. And we took loads of marshrutkas all around the country over six (ish) months.

Our experiences were largely positive, but there definitely were some hair-raising moments, bouts of serious motion sickness, and times where we nearly fell out of our seats. But, you know, it’s all part of the authentic Georgian experience, and really, you haven’t properly been to Georgia if you haven’t had at least one marshrutka ride!

This Georgia transport guide will help you prepare for the marshrutka madness on your next trip to this astounding country.

So what is a marshrutka?

A marshrutka is essentially a minivan. You generally find them in ex-Soviet republics – the Stans, the Caucasus and some in Eastern Europe. They travel a set route from A to B, have very little leg room or luggage space and are usually the cheapest transport option.

How well-connected are the cities?

If you are in Tbilisi, you will be able to get a direct route to almost anywhere in the country. If you’re in Batumi or Kutaisi, you will (more or less) be able to get anywhere in the west of the country. For other smaller locations, you will largely be able to get to other relatively nearby locations. So for example, you’re in Kutaisi and you want to get to Telavi in the very east: you will have to go to Tbilisi and change marshrutka. All roads quite literally lead to Tbilisi.

Where can I find timetables?

Now, this is a tricky one because timetables don’t really exist online. There isn’t anything official, but you’ll be able to find information for your next destination once you are at the bus station. Your other option is to ask locals, check with your accommodation host, or read up on articles like ours about destinations in Georgia. Basically, you need to find people in the know.

We have had many accommodation hosts in smaller towns or villages literally call the driver to check timings. I guess there is maybe one guy who services the route.

When should I get to the bus station?

As a rule of thumb, we plan to get there twenty/thirty minutes early. This is a rule that we have stuck to throughout our travels so far and it works pretty nicely. It means you have time to find the right marshrutka and get your luggage packed up before others have arrived. However, it all depends on the rules of the specific marshrutka.

Every marshrutka, bar one, that we have taken in Georgia (and we’ve travelled around the country for near on six months) has left at a designated time. Some, however, just leave when they are full, or when they have enough money from the passengers to make it worth them taking the journey.

We took a marshrutka from Zugdidi up to Mestia that was meant to leave around 12, that actually ended up leaving at 10:45. The only reason we arrived this early was because I had read up online that the Zugdidi Mestia marshrutkas leave when full, so we got there an hour and a half early. Good job we did this!

Are there marshrutka stations?

So where do you get the marshrutka from? The bus station. Georgia doesn’t really have many intercity buses or coaches. But the stations from which you get your marshrutka are referred to as ‘bus stations’, even though they are really marshrutka stations. Some cities will have a bus station that is just a couple of marshrutkas parked up at the side of the road, others are absolute mayhem like Didube in Tbilisi. You will usually be able to find the bus station locations on Maps.me or Google Maps, but not always. If in doubt, just ask around: Georgians are really helpful and friendly.

Which Tbilisi station should I go to?

Tbilisi was the only city we came across that had several different stations servicing different areas of the country, so bear that in mind. 

Marshrutkas leaving from Didube head to most of the country. If you’re going to Kazbegi, Mtskheta, Gori, Borjomi, and further west in the country: head to Didube.

If you are heading to anywhere in the Kakheti region or over to the east, these marshrutkas leave from Ortachala. Some people may tell you to pick it up from Isani, but that’s not actually where the marshrutkas depart from: they just stop here to pick people up. So, if you have luggage, want to secure yourself a seat, or are just unsure about flagging down a marshrutka, go to Ortachala ahead of time instead. The closest metro station is called Isani. From here, it is a twenty minute walk downhill to Ortachala.

These are the two stations that service the majority of the country, but there are also other odd places around Tbilisi. For example, we have seen signs for marshrutkas to Mestia leaving from the car park in front of Tbilisi Central Train station. If in doubt, ask a local. Didube and Ortachala are absolutely nowhere near each other, so you don’t want to go to the wrong one by accident.

How do I find the right marshrutka?

Marshrutkas have a sign in the windscreen showing the final destination. But depending on how touristy your destination is, depends on whether it is shown in Georgian or English. Heading to Gori or Batumi: easy, they will show in English. Heading to Duisi or Chiatura: not so easy, they will show in Georgian.

When you enter the bus station, people will inevitably approach you to find out if you are planning on getting their marshrutka. Say your destination, and they will point you in the right direction. In our experience, even taxi drivers (who obviously want you to take their transport instead of the marshrutka) have pointed us to the right vehicle. Follow it up with a ‘madloba!’, which means ‘thank you’ in Georgian.

Top tip: learn how to properly pronounce your destination, and take a screenshot of how it is written in the Georgian alphabet. Marshrutka drivers tend not to have a great understanding of English.

How do I pay for the ride?

Now this can vary, but the common factor is that you will always have to pay in cash. Sometimes, you have to pay at a ticket desk at the bus station, and then show the driver the ticket. Sometimes, you pay the driver in cash when you get on the marshrutka at the bus station. Sometimes, and this is the most common, you just pay the driver when you get off the marshrutka. Try to have more or less correct change for the driver. Paying for a 5 GEL trip with a 100 GEL note won’t go down too well. If one of the first two options are required, the driver will let you know.

How much does a journey cost?

Really not much at all. Travelling by marshrutka is the cheapest way (bar hitchhiking) to get around the country. An hour long trip to Gori, cost us 5 GEL. A four and a half hour mountain road trip up to Mestia cost us 40 GEL. The most expensive that we have seen advertised is Mestia to Tbilisi at 50 GEL, but that is literally a journey from one end of the country to the other, so it’s not bad at all.

What if I need to get out before the final destination?

The marshrutka is driven a specific route, and you can get on or off at any point along this route. Just get out of your seat and tell the driver when you want to get off. We took a marshrutka from Ozurgeti, heading to Batumi, but got off half way at Kobuleti. We have even got out early because the marshrutka route was right past our accommodation, so instead of stopping at the bus station, we just jumped out five minutes early.

If you know the route that the marshrutka takes, you can even stand at the side of the road and just flag it down as it comes past. This is a little riskier though, purely because there might not be seats available. And if you have large backpacks like ours, it means it can cause some awkwardness as you try to squeeze into the already small marshrutka with them (you might get some disapproving looks!).

So what’s the situation with luggage?

This is where it can get awkward. Marshrutkas generally only have a tiny space behind the last row of seats to store luggage. Your bag will either be slid under the last row of seats or squeezed between the back of the seat and the back door. Sometimes though, there might be other people with luggage too, or the marshrutka might be dropping products off to someone en route (therefore no luggage space!). In this circumstance, get ready to do some jiggery pokery to get your bag in a position that doesn’t block the way for everyone else in the marshrutka. (I have genuinely had situations where I have had my knees round my ears, and had to have my 20 kg backpack on my knees for a full journey in Armenia. But that’s a story for another time.) For popular routes, Kutaisi to Mestia as an example, the marshrutka might have an extension that they attach to the back of the vehicle. You don’t have to pay extra for your luggage.

My advice is to pack light when visiting Georgia!

How uncomfortable is a marshrutka journey?

I guess it really depends on how long your legs are! I, at about 5’6’’, have no issues with leg room. Chris at 6’2’’ish usually has more difficulty and has to put his legs out into the aisle. Get prepared to get cosy with the other passengers, is my advice. Even when the seats are all full, the marshrutka will stop along the route to pick up others. There is always space for more in a marshrutka, even if it means standing. Marshrutkas are great for shorter journeys – maybe up to three hours. Anything longer, and I would recommend trying to get the train.

What is the road safety like?

So, marshrutka drivers go pretty quickly, and Georgian drivers overall aren’t the most cautious. There aren’t seatbelts in marshrutkas so hold on tight. Marshrutka journeys down winding mountain roads are the most difficult to stomach; we both ended up feeling ill and we don’t really get motion sickness.

A quick trip to Tbilisi sulphur baths is a unique and authentic experience. The smell, the temperature, the roughness of the scrub down; it’s not something you will forget in a hurry. And while it may not be the most relaxing experience, it was definitely a highlight of our Tbilisi trip.

Bathing in the thermal waters is a quintessential Georgian experience, and I really wanted to give it a go (Chris not so much, but he came along anyway). From the outside, it seems a bit dodgy, maybe because it’s underground and hidden? A little nervous as to what was in store, we booked ourselves in and just went with the flow… and I can report that it is not dodgy. It is however, also not a luxurious spa-type experience. It was brutal from the start to the end of the hour, but I would do it all over again if I were to get the chance!

This is one of our favourite things to do in Tbilisi in winter. Find out more about winter in Tbilisi here.

This guide will give you a good idea of what a Tbilisi sulphur bath experience is all about, what to expect and top tips to get the most out of your visit.

History of the Baths

Legend says that King Vakhtang Gorgasali founded the city of Tbilisi when discovering the natural thermal springs of this area, Tbilisi literally meaning ‘warm place’.

The capital city of Georgia at this time was Mtskheta (about a thirty minute drive north of Tbilisi), but was relocated to Tbilisi after its founding and establishment in around the 5th century AD.

Believed to have healing properties, bathing in the thermal, sulphur-rich waters became popular for locals and visitors alike: Tbilisi’s position on the Silk Road made the baths more accessible.

While several baths are still functioning, the tradition maybe isn’t as prominent as previously. Still, the baths are frequented by locals and tourists alike seeking the healing properties or to learn/experience this ancient Georgian tradition.

Which bathhouse is best?

I can only recommend one as we only experienced the baths at Gulo’s Thermal Spa. We were recommended this through the Tbilisi free walking tour, and I can say it was definitely good advice.

100 GEL got us an hour in a private room with mosaic decoration, a hot pool, and a cold pool. I paid an extra 10 GEL for a kisi scrub (more on that later).

The bathhouse was clean and well-organised, and the staff were really friendly and helpful.

How to book your appointment

We just turned up to the bathhouse and booked our slot a few days in advance. Some places will take bookings over Facebook etc. Otherwise, you can call ahead and book. Or ask your Tbilisi accommodation host to do this for you.

We visited in December, so the prime time while people want to warm up from the cold, and we had no problems booking. When we arrived on the day, the slot before us was empty, so we were able to start earlier. My point is, even if you only have the one day and you really want to try it out but haven’t booked yet, turn up and ask the question: chances are, there will be something free for you.

How much does it cost?

For a private room, expect to pay 70 – 120 GEL. We went for quite a large room that had a hot and cold pool which came to 100 GEL. Some rooms also have saunas and the cost will be on the higher end of this scale.

For a public bath, the cost should be less than 10 GEL each.

For a kisi scrub, which I would fully recommend, it costs an extra 10-20 GEL.

Do you have to go in the nude?

This is the bit that got me! Was it going to be expected that everyone stripped down to go in the baths?! If you book your own private room, you can wear whatever you want. Go naked or wear your swimmers: whichever makes you more comfortable. There will be no one else there (unless you book a traditional kisi scrub – more on that later) and you can even lock the door from the inside if you are concerned.

I haven’t tried the public baths, but I understand that it is expected that you go full on starkers with a bunch of strangers here in sex-segregated baths.

What is in the private room?

It completely depends on the room that you book. However, most will have an area for you to change and leave your things, an area to shower or use the toilet and then an area with the hot pool and somewhere to sit/lay down. We had a room with a hot pool and a cold pool (which I would highly recommend as a bit of respite from the searingly hot water). Some more expensive rooms have sauna facilities too.

What to bring with you

The rooms are really steamy and the water is almost sceriously hot, hovering around 40°C. So if you only take one thing to the baths, I would make it a bottle of water. Apart from this, we brought swimmers, a towel, and a bag for our wet stuff. I made sure I had a hair band to tie my hair up so that it didn’t get in the sulphury water too.

There are showers there, so if you wanted to shower, bring your shower gel, shampoo etc. or just go back to your accommodation to shower (bear in mind that showering at the baths will eat into your booked hour). For a small fee, you can hire a towel, slippers etc. Make sure you ask about this before going into the room.

What extras are worth paying for?

Some bathhouses offer a massage or a kisi scrub. My understanding is that the traditional thing to do is get a kisi scrub. It is definitely an experience in itself and only costs an extra 10 GEL (about £3). Do not sign up for this thinking that you are going to get a spa treatment. It is rough and shocking, but your skin will feel soft and smooth by the end of the ten minutes. Find my kisi scrub experience at the end of this post.

Things to bear in mind

• It gets bloody hot in the pools. Like really hot. Around 40°C hot. I was honestly shocked when I first dipped my toe in. Bring some water with you because you could easily become dehydrated.
• The floors will be slippery. Watch your step and maybe use the slippers.
• You may experience light-headedness. I can’t say that I have ever really had that feeling except after going from the hot pool to cold pool, and then trying to stand up. Steady on.

My experience at the sulphur bath with a kisi scrub

We arrived about 15 minutes early and were let straight into our room. We weren’t given any instruction, just shown to our room, the door shut and that was that. This was when the clock on our one hour slot started, not on the hour as we had booked. I requested a kisi scrub before we went into the room.

Inside our room was a small cloakroom with a bench and pegs to hang our clothes up. We left our clothes there, and went in in our swimmers. I took a few photos of the rooms before we jumped in. We did not lock the door, as the merkise (the person doing the kisi scrub), would need to come in at some point.

We took our water bottle down to the pools (which I would recommend you do too), and then I tested the water of the pool with my foot. It was so so hot, to the extent where I thought there was some kind of mistake. How were we meant to bathe in this water?! I stepped one foot in, let it acclimatise a bit and then stepped the other foot in. I held on to the side of the pool and very gingerly lowered myself towards the water. After about five minutes or gradually lowering my body millimetre by millimetre into the searing hot water, I finally had the water level above my shoulders. Bloody hell, this was intense.

After a couple of minutes, my body decided that was enough. I stood up and made my way into the cold pool. The contrast between the scalding hot and freezing cold was a major shock, and so again, I had to use the same method of gently lowering myself in.

Just as I made it in to the cold pool, a woman walked in, saying ‘gamarjoba!’ (hello). The merkise had arrived to do my kisi scrub. I stood up to get out of the pool and suddenly went really lightheaded; these extreme temperatures had messed with my head! I sat on the stone bench. She dunked a big bucket into the hot pool and threw the water at me. What?! Then she dunked the bucket into the cold pool and threw it at me. This was not how I was expecting it to go!

‘Take off your top and lay on your front’ she ordered. Erm, ok? She took an abrasive exfoliating mitt, slapped me all over and then vigorously scrubbed at my body from neck to toes. She stopped for a few seconds before throwing a bucket of the searing hot water over me again. ‘Turn over’. Slapping and scrubbing was repeated on the front, followed by another bucket of water chucked at me.

Next, she grabs what looks like a pillowcase, dunks it in a soapy bucket and rubs it all over my body before (yes, you guessed it) chucking two hot buckets of water, followed by a bucket of cold water at me. And that was the end. After less than ten minutes; the merkise picked up her stuff and just walked out.

I sat there a bit confused and shocked at the bizarre and brutal experience. But I had baby-soft skin, so you know, swings and roundabouts. I got myself back together and went and dunked myself in the hot pool again. By this point, my skin had become used to the extreme temperatures swings, and I was able to get into the pool much easier. Spending no more than five minutes in either pool, we were switching between them. Scalding, freezing, scalding, freezing.

And as we started to get used to it and actually enjoy it, there was a knock on our door by someone telling us we had ten minutes left. We got out the pool, didn’t use the showers because we were going straight back to our apartment, got changed, and went and paid for at reception by card.

So what was my verdict on the Tbilisi sulphur bath with kisi scrub? In the moment, it seemed bizarre, but looking back on it makes me want to try it out again! I did feel really good after, the pools were beautiful and the staff were professional. I would highly recommend it as an authentic and definitely memorable Tbilisi experience.

Looking on the map, I was a little concerned how close Gori sits to the border of the Russian occupied territory of South Ossetia. With the claim to fame of being the birthplace of Stalin, as well as housing a museum dedicated to him, it all just felt wrong. But, there had to be more to this city than its relation to Stalin and proximity to Russian occupiers. So we booked our accommodation and off we went in search of all the things to do in Gori.

And it was a really good move.

Gori ended up being one of the most underrated parts of Georgia that we visited, especially if you’re in to modern history like us: the city is full of Soviet relics.

Gori has such charm with its retro and Soviet detailing, its old town, fortress, memorials, churches and street art. And the city also works as a great base to visit the ancient cave city of Uplistsikhe. But, unfortunately, it is the dark tourism and pull of the controversial Stalin museum that still brings in Gori’s visitors. Let’s try to change this narrative and start visiting Gori for Gori, because it really is a fascinating place irrespective of the bizarre museum. I hope I can answer your questions on Gori and convince you to visit with this post!

How to Get to Gori

Gori is an easy journey from Tbilisi taking just over an hour whether you travel by train or marshrutka.

We took the 08:50 train from Tbilisi Central Station and arrived into Gori just after the 10:00. The ticket price was 8 GEL (+1 GEL online booking fee if you book through TKT.ge). Once you get off the train, walk across the abandoned tracks and head over the bridge into town. We walked to our accommodation which took about 20 minutes, but local buses kept stopping for us to offer us a lift (probably because it was so bloody cold!).

Regular marshrutkas also head to Gori each day. Get to Didube bus station (brace yourself, it’s manic) which is easily accessible by metro, and ask for Gori. Someone will point you to the right van. Pay on the bus in cash. It will likely be around the same price as the train (between 5 and 10 GEL). Gori bus station is in the north of the city and is a good 30 minute walk into the centre. Local buses will take you into the centre; just ask around at the bus station.

When to Visit Gori

Gori has a definite no-go season: this was the time that we visited! Winter is brutal here; we have never experienced cold like it. The weather forecast was misleading. When we were planning our trip, we saw that the temperature was expected to be around the freezing mark, maybe a little below. However, this did not factor in the real feel, which was at least ten degrees colder because of the icy wind.

So, yes, we were exploring Gori in -13°C real feel. Taking my gloves off for a minute to take a picture would genuinely feel like the blood in my fingers was icing up. Having said that, we really enjoyed the city (more than we were expecting) even in Arctic conditions, so that speaks volumes. I’d recommend heading to Gori no earlier in the year than March.

How Long to Spend in Gori

We stayed for five days, which I think is a record based on the surprised faces of everyone who asked how long we were in town. I would recommend allowing for two full days to get a chance to see everything in Gori and take a day/half day trip out of the city.

A Short Gori History

Gori was founded by King David the Builder in the seventh century. As the medieval kingdom of Georgia started to fall into decline, the city came under the control of several empires, namely Persian, Ottoman and Russian.

An earthquake destroyed most of the city in 1920. As Gori was the birthplace of Stalin, the city was largely rebuilt during Soviet rule under Stalin’s orders.

In 2008, the Russo-Georgian War saw Gori controlled by Russian and South Ossetian military for less than two weeks, before control returning to Georgia.

Today, Gori still has a distinctly Soviet feel about it.

The South Ossetian region, as with Abkhazia, is run by its own separate government alongside Russia. These two areas make up the 20% of Georgian territory controlled and occupied by Russia.

2008 Wasn’t Too Long Ago. Is the Situation Now Safe?

When we were in Gori, we felt safe the entire time (as we have done throughout the rest of the country). The town is not so close to the border that the likes of gov.uk recommend against visiting. The biggest current issue is ‘border creep’, where locals living near the border wake up one morning to find that the border has been moved forward and their garden is now sitting in the ‘occupied territory’. However, the main city of Gori is not in this zone.

South Ossetia, however, is completely off limits for tourists visiting from Georgia.

Should You Visit the Stalin Museum?

Is it the right thing to do? I had my reservations before visiting, as I had read many reviews about how appalled visitors were about the museum almost feeling like a shrine. I do feel that you should visit the museum, just take everything you are told in the museum with a big old pinch of salt. Full blog post on the Stalin Museum is on its way.

Things to Do in Gori

Search for all the Retro Details

Keep an eye out and you will no doubt find examples of Soviet retro-ness all over Gori. Rusted signs and staircases, hammer and sickle symbols, letterboxes in Cyrillic, classic Ladas parked up roadside, communist style apartment blocks, propaganda-style memorials.

Spot the Relevant and Thought-provoking Street Art

You will find really good street art around the city, in particular the new pieces in the underpasses near the town hall. There are a few pieces that perfectly depict very current issues that Gori is going through. The best-known displays the tragic reality of border creep on a bullet-hole ridden wall from the recent barrage from the Russian occupation of 2008.

As well as street art, Gori has its own Art House. When we visited in January, it was unfortunately closed, so we didn’t get a chance to see any of the exhibitions. If you have had the chance to visit, please let us know how it was!

Walk up to the Fortress for Uninterrupted City Views

Gori Fortress offers beautiful panoramic views over the city and surrounding mountains. The fortress itself isn’t much to rave about, but the views from up here are worth the short climb. There is no entrance fee for the fortress.

See the Creative Memorial for Georgian War Heroes

The memorial is at the base of the fortress. It consists of large statues of soldiers sat in a circle with varying degrees of woundedness. Completely different to any other memorials we have seen in Georgia, this is particularly striking and thought-provoking. Definitely worthy of a visit.

Take a Free Walking Tour with Zhana

Taking a walking tour with a local always gives you a great flavour for the city, and Zhana’s free walking tour is no exception. With plenty of insight into the current political situation, the Russian occupation of 2008 and the continuation of border creep, Zhana helps you to understand what the people of Gori and IDPs of South Ossetia have gone/are still going through. Explore the rest of city and get some great restaurant recommendations. Contact Zhana on Facebook to arrange your tour.

Stop by the Holy Archangels Church

Close to the base of the fortress and the Georgian War Heroes memorial is the Holy Archangels Church. Step inside to see the brightly painted walls.

See the Unique Designs of All 1001 Tiles

1001 Tiles is an art installation of (you guessed it) 1001 ceramic tiles. Each is decorated with traditional Georgian designs, patterns and pictures. The end result of all these carefully curated tiles placed together is beautiful.

Pop your Head into Gori Train Station Waiting Room

Inside Gori train station you will find two waiting rooms: one where you can actually wait for your train, and another that is off limits (ish). Inside the off limits waiting room is a huge statue of Stalin. There are signs on all the doors forbidding entry, but the doors are made of glass so you can easily see the statue and/or get a half decent picture.

Wander the Ethnographic Museum

The Ethnographic Museum has some really interesting pieces including deer-shaped drinking vessels and small, mysterious human figures with their hands raised. It is a small museum that won’t take you more than thirty minutes to get around. Entrance is 5 GEL to be paid in cash.

Gorge on Ossurian Khachapuri

Oohh, I am big khachapuri fan. And on our travels around the country, I hunt down regional varieties of these cheesy and fluffy breads (or pies depending on who you are talking to). Ossurian khachapuri is traditional to South Ossetia so you can find it here, in nearby Gori. It is a beautifully baked bread stuffed with cheese and potato. It’s pretty substantial because it is essentially carbs stuffed with carbs, but it is absolutely perfect for the cold weather we were experiencing in Gori.

Take a Half-day Trip out to Uplistsikhe Ancient Cave City

Uplistsikhe is about a twenty minute drive away from Gori, and so makes a perfect side trip. The ancient city carved into the rock is reminiscent of those in Petra and Cappadocia but on a much smaller scale.