Jajce, literally meaning ‘egg’, is a small medieval city located in the centre of Bosnia and Herzegovina. A Bosnian friend of ours, who is actually from Jajce, recommended that we visit. And I’m so glad that we did; the things to do in Jajce left us in awe of this small city’s natural beauty.

Jajce’s defining feature is its thundering waterfall right in the heart of the town. River Pliva runs through the centre and joins river Vrbas at the base of the waterfall, meaning that Jajce is set at a confluence of two rivers and a waterfall. Aside from its natural beauty, Jajce has a prominent history. It was the medieval capital city of Bosnia back in the 14th century when the country was still ruled by a monarchy. Stjepan Tomašević was crowned, executed and buried in and around Jajce as Bosnia’s last king before Ottoman empire rule for the next 400 years.

You can still see the medieval and Ottoman influences throughout the town in the architecture, fortress ruins, cobbled streets and towers. Jajce has maintained its historical town feel without prettifying it for tourism, making it feel genuine. It has kept its old worldliness.

The beauty of this compact, easy-going city can be seen in one day; the majority of tourists visit as a day trip. However, I would recommend spending one night to enable you to visit the Pliva lakes and watermills up the road the next day.

In this short guide to Jajce, you will find tips on how to get to the city, top things to do, and advice on eating veggie here (which is a little challenging).

How To Get to Jajce

The nearest airport is Sarajevo (SJJ) which connects Bosnia and Herzegovina with several locations throughout Europe and the Middle East.

From Sarajevo, four buses go to Jajce each day, the journey lasting around four hours and costing just under 20 EUR.

There are also direct bus connections with other cities throughout the country, notably Mostar and Bihac near Una National Park.

Where to Stay in Jajce

Lena is a beautiful place to stay. The apartment is spacious and bright and airy, has a kitchen, dining area, lounge area, and a cute balcony! And it’s in a great location to get into the town centre.

Apartman Eva is definitely somewhere we would book if we went back to Jajce! And ZenDen is a bit pricier, but would be perfect if you were looking for something just a little fancier.

Things to do in Jajce

Hunt All the Best Waterfall and River Viewpoints

The waterfall is the main event in Jajce, so if you have time to do just one thing, make this it! The main viewpoint of Pliva waterfall has an entry fee of 8KM and allows you to get up close to the cascading waters to feel the fine spray. This is the viewpoint that all the crowds flock to, so pick the time you visit carefully.

Instead, or as well, head to the other side of the river to be rewarded with a stunning view of the old town alongside the waterfall (for free and without the crowds). From the waterfall side of the river, you should be able to see a small green hut in amongst the trees on the other side of the water. That is the spot. There is no obvious route to get there – Google Maps didn’t help, but trusty old Maps.me worked it out for us.

Walk the Cobbled Street up to Jajce Fortress, Taking in all the Historic Points

Heading into the old town, you will likely walk through the old archway (marked on Google Maps as Travnička Kapija) and past the old (but still functioning) water fountain. The fortress ruins are well signposted around town, so follow their guidance. Wander past the ruins of St. Mary’s church, St. Luke’s Belfry Tower, Bear Tower, maybe dip into the Catacombs, head up to the Women’s Mosque and then find yourself at the ticket desk for the fortress ruins.

Admire Jajce from Above

Jajce fortress ruins are small and there is not a huge amount to see inside. The main reason to head up here and pay the small 5KM entrance fee is to view the panorama of Jajce town from above. You’ll see the rolling hills dotted with the colourful roof tops. We spent about twenty minutes here.

Once you leave the fortress, take the path off to the left for further ruins and viewpoints over the town from outside of the fortress grounds. (Make sure you have a wander round the rest of the town outside of the old city walls. You’ll find abandoned buildings covered in bullet holes serving as reminders of the recent Bosnian war.)

Venture out to Pliva Lakes and See the Historic Watermills

You can walk to the watermills in between the two Pliva lakes from Jajce town. It will take about an hour, is relatively flat and there are a few spots to visit along the way which will break up the journey. If you don’t fancy walking, it would be best to hire a car as there is no public transport driving this route.

Make Konoba Slapovi your first stop out of Jajce town. About a thirty minute walk away, this is actually a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. They have outdoor seating with tables positioned beside small waterfalls, and on little islands in the river. Pop down to take a look or maybe grab some breakfast or a coffee while watching the water flow by.

Get back on the road and head down to Most Ljubavi (or the Bridge of Love). I don’t really understand where the name comes from: there was no sign of padlocks on the bridge which is usually suggests a ‘love bridge’. Regardless, the bridge is lovely to walk across and get views of the water either side.

Continue walking up along the lakeside until you reach the traditional watermills. These twenty-or-so small wooden huts on stilts sit between the two Pliva lakes. They are no longer functioning but are maintained as a point of interest. A narrow boardwalk connects each one but unfortunately, they aren’t open to go inside.

Once you have had your fill of the watermills, follow the signs up to Ćusine (or take a look for the area’s location on Google Maps/Maps.me). There is a relatively gentle incline up a road and then as it begins to flatten, you will be rewarded with the most stunning view of Great Pliva lake. This was a top tip from our accommodation host, and our favourite thing to do in Jajce. He even drove us out there to show us how beautiful it was (classic Bosnian hospitality right there!).

Top Vegetarian Eats in Jajce

Being such a small town in a country which predominantly eats meat, eating vegetarian ended up being quite a challenge. We went to most restaurants and read through most menus and these ended up being our recommendations for budgeting vegetarians.

Svemirko Pub

Svemirko does a veggie burger. It is a basic potato and vegetable patty, but it is served with fried courgettes, and a burger sauce in a chewy bun. They also have several different styles of chips and onion rings.

Kristal

Kristal does a good and inexpensive shopska salad and lepinje bread.

Pizzeria Aria

Aria has a vegetarian pizza (mushrooms and sweetcorn) a four cheese pizza and a margherita. They have a selection of salads, a vegetarian risotto and veggie sides. The ‘rest mushrooms’ (whatever that actually means?) are really tasty.

Slastičarna

For something sweet, head over to Slastičarna Uno and try one of their desserts. Tufahije is a classic Bosnian dessert. It is a cold, baked apple that has had the core removed and a walnut paste inserted instead. It usually has cream on the top too.  Or, grab an ice cream.

Kinder Palačinkarnica

Another place that I would recommend is Kinder Palačinkarnica. They serve loads of pancakes that are smothered in various toppings. The pancakes are good, but the view is even better. Have your pancakes and a coffee overlooking the view of the river and the hillside. Lovely.

Mostar is one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most visited tourist destinations. The UNESCO listed iconic bridge, the icy cold Neretva river running through the city, and its location near the Croatia border all help to make this city so popular.

Mostar is a trip highlight whether it be a stop on a trip around Bosnia and Herzegovina, a day trip from Dubrovnik, or even a stop on a Balkan road trip. If you have the time, stay for a day or two to get a feel for the city away from the crowds of day trippers and to explore Mostar beyond its old town.

Keep reading to find our advice for things to do in Mostar, recommendations for vegetarians, transport tips, and day trips.

Mostar’s Recent Back Story

Mostar, literally meaning bridge keepers, has had a complicated history, most recently the tragedy of the Bosnian war of the 90s. The break-up of Yugoslavia triggered Bosnia and Herzegovina’s quest for independence; unfortunately this did not happen peacefully.

Like in Sarajevo, there was a divide between Serbs and Bosniaks, however, a third group was also included: Croats. Initially, Croats and Bosniaks, making an equal majority of the population of Mostar, largely worked together. However, tensions between Croats and Bosniaks increased, triggering a war between these two groups. The city became physically divided: ethnic Croats on one side of the Neretva river, ethnic Bosniaks on the other. The destruction of the bridges crossing the Neretva river only intensified the divide. The war lasted about a year and ended with the signing of a peace treaty.

The reconstruction, using traditional methods, of the iconic bridge in Mostar helped the city to gain UNESCO World Heritage status.

Nowadays, Mostar is recognised as a picture perfect city thanks to its bridge, Ottoman architecture and the glacial blue Neretva river.

How to Get to Mostar

The nearest airport is Sarajevo (SJJ) which connects Bosnia and Herzegovina with several locations throughout Europe and the Middle East. From the city centre, there are multiple buses each day connecting to Mostar with a two and a half hour journey costing around 29 KM.

Mostar has good bus connections with other locations around the country including Jajce, Trebinje and Banja Luka.

Where to Stay in Mostar

Palmera was such a lovely place to stay. The rooms are spacious, there is a courtyard area, a shared tea and coffee station, and we were even given a welcome basket with some local sweet treats in! I would thoroughly recommend staying here for your trip to Mostar.

Luxury Studio Yasmine and Moon apartment are both the sort of place that we would love to book too!

Things to do in Mostar

Take a Free Walking Tour with Sheva

THE top thing to do in Mostar in our opinion, is to catch up with Sheva on his free walking tour. He has so much information to offer as he has lived through the war in Mostar, was part of the Mostar diving team (more info on that to follow), and knows everyone in the town. His tour is full of personal anecdotes and stories that really keeps it interesting, and helps to piece together the complex parts of the Bosnian war. It also helps you to get your bearings in the new part of town, and get good recommendations on restaurants, day trips, etc.

It is a free tour (though tips are welcomed) that is run twice daily – 9am and 6pm in the summer months, starting in front of the Hammam Museum in the old town.

Get in touch with Sheva through this link to book on to the tour: Sheva’s Free Walking Tour

Walk across the Iconic Old Bridge (Stari Most)

The Old Bridge has been functional since 2004 after three years of reconstruction since its collapse during the Bosnian War. Traditional techniques and materials were used in the reconstruction, meaning that it has kept its UNESCO status.

The view from the bridge with the traditional buildings lining the glacial blue water of the Neretva River is fairy tale-esque. It really is the iconic centre point of Mostar which draws in visitors, but because of this, it is also the busiest point in Mostar. Crossing the bridge is a challenge in itself, regardless of the amount of tourists. The curve of the bridge is pretty steep and the bricks are slippery, so definitely wear shoes with good grip for your first few attempts at least. Once you’ve crossed it a few times, you’ll have it worked out!

Search for Viewpoints of the Old Bridge

Our favourite viewpoints were from Lučki Most, from below the Old Bridge and from the small windows of the Bridge Museum. Many people recommend going to the top of the minaret of the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque. However, the fee to go up is about 15KM. If you’re not on a backpacker budget, definitely go for it! But for us, we decided to give it a miss and head for other viewpoints.

Hunt Down the Crooked Bridge (Kriva Ćuprija) AKA ‘wee bridge on the wonk’

Ok, so ‘wee bridge on the wonk’ is definitely not a recognised name, but we affectionately called it this. It is presumed that this bridge was built as a ‘dress rehearsal’ for the Stari Most as it was built in the exact same style and was completed very shortly before the building of Stari Most began. It’s also not actually crooked, but the ‘crookedness’ refers to the arching of the bridge. For a great view, grab a drink at the Old Crew pub and sit on the terrace.

Street Art Hunting

Once you’ve covered the old part of town, head to the newer part of town for some less touristy things to do in Mostar. We love a bit of street art and have searched for street art all around the world. Mostar is near the top of our list (closely behind Georgetown, Penang). We used this street art map as a guide, which was put together by Street Arts Festival Mostar. It’s not 100% accurate, but we managed to find the majority. There are also plenty of other murals and street art that you will inevitably find around the city. The best spots we found were near Sniper Tower and a residential area on a road named Tvrtka Miloša.

Watch the Bridge Jumpers

Wandering around the Old Town, you will see some young men in very small speedos. These are the Mostar bridge jumpers and it is a very serious business in Mostar. The jumpers ask for donations as they build up the crowd, before launching themselves off the 24 metre high Old Bridge and in to the ice-cold Neretva river below. It is pretty spectacular, but also terrifying.

There is a Bridge Divers’ Club, so if you fancy giving it a go yourself, knock on their door. You will have to pay a fee and take some lessons with the instructors. If they are satisfied with your jumping technique, you will be given the all-clear to jump from Stari Most. There is no doubt about it that this is a dangerous game – Sheva, who runs the walking tour can tell you some horror stories. Make sure you always get approval from the divers’ club first.

View the City from Millennium Cross

If you’re in Mostar, you will definitely see the hill with a large white cross at the top overlooking the town. This is the Millennium Cross. It’s a pretty controversial point due to it being placed higher than the minarets of Mostar’s mosques, but regardless of its symbolism, the view itself is worth a wander.

We walked up from Mostar town centre – doable, but not the nicest due to the mid-portion of the walk being along a main road without pavement – but most people would drive through this section, park up, and then walk the rest. When walking the final stretch, you are fully exposed to the sun, so make sure you bring plenty of sun protection and water.

Day Trips from Mostar

Pocitelj

One of my favourite places in the whole of Bosnia and Herzegovina! A hillside stone town with abandoned buildings, crumbling pathways, stunning viewpoints, and only a few tourists. Definitely worth a half-day visit.

Read our blog post on everything you need to know to visit Pocitelj here.

Blagaj

Just a thirty minute bus ride out of Mostar brings you to Blagaj, with its historic Dervish house built into the cliff face and fortress ruins.

Kravica Waterfall

We did not do this because of the cost, however, we would have done if we were not on a budget. There is no public transport that will take you there, but all tour operators in Mostar will have some kind of trip lined up for you.

Sarajevo

Find a huge traditional Ottoman bazaar, walk an original section of the Tunnel of Hope, learn about the Bosnian war at the museums and explore the abandoned Olympic bobsled track.

Where to Eat Tasty Veggie Food

In/Near the Old Town

Aščinica Balkan II – there are not strictly any ‘veggie’ meals here, however, if you just go in and explain that you are vegetarian, they will bring you a selection of the veggie side dishes that are on offer that day. We received two types of burek, a spinach and rice dish, a spiced rice dish with veg, Bosnian beans, and bread. We had one plate between us and it was all really good.

Hindin Han – there are lovely views over the river here. We ordered grilled mushrooms and chips, which came with sour cream and bread too. The amount of mushrooms that we received was outrageous, and they were really tasty.

Podrum – this family-run restaurant serves up a grilled veg platter.

Food House – pretty overrated and overpriced. However, there are several vegan and vegetarian options here.

Pizzeria & Restaurant Mozzarella – we went here for breakfast a couple of times. They do veggie wraps, omelettes, pancakes, and good coffee.

Outside of the Old Town

Tecó – a bit of a walk, but well worth it. They have several vegetarian options and some vegan too. Veggie burgers, veggie sandwiches, etc.

Blok Bar – they have an actual vegetarian/vegan menu. Several burgers with meat replacement patties, quesadillas, burritos, wraps etc.

Primavera – the best pizzas. Super crispy base and tasty toppings.