The most conservative part of Turkey that we visited, Sanliurfa felt different, more religious. The city seemed genuine, it was what I imagined the ‘real’ Turkey to be. Almost no foreign tourists means that the city had no need to be anything other than its authentic self. Narrow alleyways lead to hidden tea houses with tiny stools, converted caravanserais, tunnels, decorated doorways, churches, market stalls. As we staggered along these streets with our backpacks, desperately trying not to get lost or trip over the uneven cobbles, locals smiled and welcomed us. It’s winding streets reminded me of Chefchaouen’s medina in Morocco (minus the blue).

Sanliurfa turned out to be one of my favourite stops in the whole of Turkey. The architecture, the Middle Eastern feel, the stunning hans that make you feel like you’re back in the times of traders on the Silk Road, the hospitable people, the astounding archaeological museum, and of course the nearby excavated site of Gobeklitepe. This travel guide will help you plan your trip with all the best things to do in Sanliurfa, where to stay, where to eat, how to get there, and the most fascinating day trip!

The devastating Turkey-Syria earthquakes on 6th February 2023 saw fatalities of over 55,000 people and destruction of over four million buildings. Sanliurfa and its nearby provinces were affected due to the fault line running under South East Turkey. 

History of Urfa and Sanliurfa

The history of Urfa is a 12,000 years old saga, so condensing everything down into a small paragraph here is a mission and a half. So buckle up.

12,000 years ago, hunter gatherers began to build sites of worship here, as can be seen in the excavations of nearby Gobeklitepe and Karahantepe. With the building of these sites came more people paying pilgrimage which in turn required more food and places for them stay. This is believed to be the birth of civilisation – political, social and religious organisation.

Fast forward thousands of years to the 4th century BC. The city was under Seleucid empirical rule because of Macedonian Alexander the Great’s conquests. When he died, the city was named Edessa. From this point until 1517, the city was under the rule of many different powers (Assyrian, Roman, Persian, Islamic armies, Byzantine, Mongolian – just to name some of them), before a period of relative stability for the next 400 years under Ottoman rule.

After WW1, as with Gaziantep, the city was occupied by the British before being handed over to the French. The French attempted to incorporate the city into their Syrian territory. After the French refused to leave, an organised Turkish and Kurdish uprising took place. The French were defeated, surrendered and left, and Urfa became part of the Turkish Republic. In 1984, Urfa was awarded the prefix ‘sanli’, meaning glorious, in recognition of their efforts during the war of Turkish independence.

It is believed that Sanliurfa is the birthplace and hometown of Prophet Abraham, therefore religion is really important in this city.

How to Get to Sanliurfa

Sanliurfa domestic airport (GNY) is serviced from Istanbul, Izmir and Ankara.

Buses run regularly to Sanliurfa from the other main surrounding cities.

Buses we got in and out of Sanliurfa:

Gaziantep to Sanliurfa: took two hours, leaving Gaziantep at 12:30. Bus company was Vangolu.

Sanliurfa to Mardin: took two and half hours, leaving Sanliurfa at 10:30.

Sanliurfa to Gobeklitepe: took about 45 minutes, leaving outside the Archaeological Museum at 09:45. Bus number 0.

Gobeklitepe to Sanliurfa: left Gobeklitepe at 12:45. Bus number 0.

Where to Stay in Sanliurfa

Grand Babil Otel rooms are simple and clean. The hotel is in a good location, a basic breakfast is included in the room rate and the hosts are really friendly. It’s a great budget spot in what appears to be a historical han, with beautiful courtyard area and balcony.

Aslan Guest House looks like another great budget option in a beautiful historic building.

Things to Do in Sanliurfa

Walk the Blacksmith Market and Stop for Tea at Barutcu Han

Barutcu Han is hidden away, and unless you wander down to the end of the Blacksmith Market street, you wouldn’t know it was there. When you find it, you’ll realise how huge this complex actually is. A newly renovated caravanserai is full of tables at the bottom floor. Stop for a tea or maybe even a breakfast spread. Make sure you walk up the steps to have a wander round and see the view of the han from the top.

Visit Mevlid Halil Mosque, Prophet Abraham’s Cave

The interior of this mosque is stunning, decorated with blues and reds, stained glass windows and an elaborate chandelier. If you’re female, remember to bring a headscarf with you as there aren’t any available for rent.

Right next door, is the cave in which it is believed that Prophet Abraham was born and raised. Legend has it that evil King Nimrod was told by a seer that a child would overthrow his kingdom. He then ordered for all children to be killed. Abraham’s mother Nuna, when realising she was pregnant, hid in a cave until she gave birth. Abraham then stayed in the cave until the age of 15 to avoid persecution.

In the cave, women have to cover up and wear a headscarf (you can rent them here for a small donation). There are two entrances into the cave, one for men and one for women, and these lead to completely separate parts of the cave. Inside there is an area for prayer, a perspexed-off area and a dip in the ceiling of the cave.

Now, there was little information about the cave, so I didn’t really know what I was walking into and its significance; but when I entered, there were about five women standing below this dip in the ceiling praying and raising their hands to this spot. It was an interesting experience, and as this is one of the holiest spots in Sanliurfa, I really wanted to go and see it for myself.

We were in and out within a few minutes. There really isn’t much there if you’re not using it for prayer/worship purposes.

Reji Kilisesi and the Backstreets

Reji Kilisesi has a beautiful courtyard with an aesthetically-pleasing symmetrical staircase. Definitely worth popping your head in while you’re wandering the narrow backstreets.

Balikligol and Ayn-Zeliha Golu

There are two beautiful small lakes within the religious complex that contain huge fish. There are gardens and buildings surrounding the lakes which make it a lovely and peaceful place to walk.

It is believed that Abraham rejected the idea that King Nimrod of Urfa was God. A huge fire was lit and Abraham was thrown into it. The fire turned to water meaning that Abraham landed safely. The embers turned to fish, and today are considered holy. This was the story of the creation of Balikligol.

On seeing the fire turn to water to protect Abraham, Zeliha (Nimrod’s daughter) converted to Islam and also rejected the idea that her father was God. Nimrod threw Zeliha in to a fire, where she died. The place of the fire then turned into water, creating Ayn-Zeliha Golu.

Şanlıurfa Archaeology Museum

One of the most fascinating things to do in Sanliurfa; this museum is amazing. Sanliurfa and the surrounding area is recognised as the birthplace of civilisation so the city has a lengthy history. The museum takes you from the absolute beginning of everything and walks you through each era with loads of information in English accompanied with artifacts.

I could have easily spent over three hours here. The absolute highlights for me were Urfa Man and the Gobeklitepe replica. Urfa Man is the oldest life-size sculpture of a human, dated back to 9000 BC, and walking through the replica of Gobeklitepe was fascinating.

Visit Gobeklitepe

THE absolute stand-out if you are interested in history and anthropology. Gobeklitepe is the oldest religious site that has been excavated, dated back 12,000 years. It is mind-blowing. You can still see some of the intricate decoration really clearly. How is that even possible?!

Try the Traditional Mirra Coffee

One of the tastiest things to do in Sanliurfa. Mirra coffee is traditional to Sanliurfa, Hatay, Adana and Mardin, as well as Lebanon and Syria. The name derives from the Arabic for bitter: mur. Coarser grounds are used than in Turkish coffee, and so to extract the flavour, the coffee is fully brought to the boil a couple of times. The result is thick, syrupy, very strong and bitter. A tiny amount is served in tiny cups. That really is all that you need.

Eat Delicious Food in a Traditional Han of the Ancient Silk Road: Cevahir Han

Sanliurfa sat along the Silk Road and was an important trading centre. Weary travelling merchants would stop at the han. The building has been restored, maintaining its original integrity. It really is a stunning setting for lunch or dinner. The prices are good and there are Turkish vegetarian options (which really are not in abundance in this region of Turkey).

We were served vegetarian cig kofte, two dips, bread, and tea for no extra fee. We ordered Bostana salad, which is a stunner. Diced cucumber, tomato, onion and herbs swimming in a citrus and pomegranate dressing. Then we followed the salad up with a cheese pide and vegetable casserole. 10/10 would recommend. We went back twice! Eating is definitely one of the best things to do in Sanliurfa.