I had done a fair bit of research before heading out to Tirana, and I wasn’t sure if it was somewhere we would like. Were there many things to do in Tirana? From what I had understood, the Albanian rich live here, driving round exhibitionist-style in their fancy cars making sure that everyone sees them in their fancy cars. (Anyone that knows me, knows that this is one of my biggest turn-offs.)

I had also read that it was really run down, and was a destination in the country that most tourists skip; even Albanians that we spoke to had either not recommended it, or recommended against it. So, we decided that we had to go and see it for ourselves… and I can report that the haters are definitely wrong. We loved Tirana.

Find all the top things to do in Tirana in this guide.

A relatively new city of 400 years, Tirana has been the capital city of Albania since 1920.

Yes, the residue of communism still lingers in its architecture and its main points of interest. It’s not the prettiest of European cities, but it is one of the most interesting.

Even though reminders of Albania’s dark past still reside here; bright and modern elements have begun to take over, switching up the narrative. Symbols of the dictatorship are being transformed to represent modernity and the freedom of Albania. Tirana now has a welcoming and free-spirited feel with its quirky cafe scene and impressive street art collection, while still recognising this bleak period in Albanian history. For a truly unique and inspiring city break, Tirana is the ticket.

In this post, find our favourite things to do in Tirana, as well as our favourite restaurants, and all the practical/logistical info to get there.

How to Get to Tirana

Tirana International Airport Nënë Tereza (TIA) is very well connected with most European countries and some of the Middle East.

Wherever you are in Albania, you will undoubtedly be able to get a bus to Tirana. After five weeks travelling around Albania by bus, we compiled all our top tips for bus travel in this blog post.

Buses that we got in and out of Tirana:

Shkoder to Tirana: cost 400 lek and took around two hours, leaving Shkoder at 10am. We arrived into the North/South bus terminal, from which we had to get a city bus into the centre.  There is a small bus stop just outside of the station. When you get on the bus, ask for ‘Skanderbeg Square’ (the main square in the centre of the city). If they nod, you know it’s going the right direction. It should take about thirty minutes to get to Skanderbeg Square and cost 40 lek for your ticket which you pay in cash on the bus.

Tirana to Berat: cost 500 lek and took around two and a half hours. From Tirana Central Bus Stop, just off Skanderbeg Square, get on the white bus with Termini written on the front. Pay 40 lek to be taken back to the main bus station to get the bus to Berat.

Things to do in Tirana

Learn About the Communist Dictatorship of Albania in Bunk’Art 1 and 2

Bunk’Art 1 and 2 are museums set in nuclear resistant bunkers that the paranoid Enver Hoxha demanded be built all over the country during his dictatorship.

Bunk’Art 1 is definitely the more hard-hitting of the two. If you have time for just the one museum, make the effort to travel just out of town to visit this one.

At Tirana Central Bus Stop, just off Skanderbeg Square, jump on the blue bus with ‘Porcelan’ written on the front. It’s a short journey of maybe twenty minutes and costs 40 lek each way, payable on the bus in cash. When you get off the bus, you have to walk down a long, dark tunnel (this in itself starts to set the atmosphere). Entrance costs 500 lek to enter this one bunker, but if you wanted to see Bunk’Art 2 also, you can get a discounted double ticket for 800 lek.

Going down into the bunker is cold and stark. There are many exhibitions displayed across several rooms covering the span of Hoxha’s rule. We had spent about two and a half hours in the bunker going through all the fascinating, yet harrowing detail before we came to the assembly hall. Because we had entered later in the day, we were the only people left in the bunker before closing.

This felt eerie: no one else around while we stood in a large hall full of red velvet chairs facing a stage. This was the stuff of horror films. Not only did I have to continually tell myself that we would not mistakenly be locked in here because we were the last visitors of the day (catastrophiser over here!), but I felt a genuine connection to all the gritty detail in the exhibitions as we stood in this cold and empty space.

Make sure you’re ready for this one. It’s hard-hitting, no question, but it’s the atmosphere down in the bunker that is really powerful. Absolutely number of the most important things to do in Tirana.

Bunk’Art 2 is in the centre of the city. It is a point of great controversy, understandably, as an artificial bunker dome shape was added to the entrance. This museum, also set in an underground bunker, is focused on the secret police known as the Sigurimi, and the political persecution to which Albanian people were subjected. You could spend about an hour or so taking in all the information in the exhibits.

Go in Search of Remarkable Street Art

On a much lighter note, Tirana has some incredible street art. A lot of the art is splashed on the walls of buildings around Blloku which is the area where the Communist party elite used to live. Street art signed by Franko appears all over the city, often featuring prominent issues of today. Keep an eye out for these in particular. We spent an afternoon wandering around and hunting them all down.

Vagabundler has a great map that we used to make sure we found the best spots. Don’t forget to look out for street art on the electrical boxes and road signs too.

Go on a Quirky Cafe/Bar Crawl

One of the most fun things to do in Tirana is to hunt down all its quirky cafes! See how many you can find – heading over to the Blloku district is your best bet.

Our favourites are Komiteti Café Museum, Small, Nouvelle Vague and Tymi (not a cafe, more of a bar/restaurant, definitely quirky though.)

Walk Skanderbeg Square

What used to be a very communist area surrounded by statues of both Enver Hoxha and Joseph Stalin, is now a very open and inclusive area with a statue of Albania’s national hero: Skanderbeg. The square is paved with coloured stones from different parts of the country. Look carefully, and you might be able to see a place name carved into a paving stone.

There are several buildings around the square worth seeing: Ethem Bey Mosque, Clock Tower, National History Museum, Opera House. Ethem Bey mosque is beautifully and intricately decorated, while the National History Museum is the largest in Albania. Entrance fee is 500 lek. (Unfortunately, we did not see the museum or its communist propaganda mosaic façade as there were restoration works going on. Next time!)

Uncover the Dictatorial Regime Secrets in the House of Leaves

The House of Leaves AKA the Museum of Secret Surveillance is the building that was used as the headquarters of the ‘National Intelligence Service’ during the regime. Collaborators and regular people who were blackmailed or threatened into becoming informants, were spying, recording conversations and reporting their findings.

Those found to be speaking out against the regime were then punished; some were imprisoned, some disappeared. This museum shares details on the monitoring, controlling and manipulating of the Albanian people.

Entrance costs 700 lek.

Former Residence of Enver Hoxha and the Pyramid

Catch a glimpse of the dictator’s former residence. You can only see it from outside of the gates. Again, this is another point of controversy as it remains as it was during the regime, however, there are rumours of plans to turn it into a museum or public space.

The Pyramid was originally constructed to become a museum dedicated to the dictator. Designed by Hoxha’s daughter (amongst others), the attempt to link pharaonic connotations to the dictator was not well-received. The pyramid has had several different uses since the fall of the dictatorship: notably a NATO base during the Kosovo war and then a nightclub.

Now, restoration work is going ahead to dramatically change the structure into an open space; a cultural hub for education and socialising. Plans for walkways over the top of this former dictatorship symbol will act as a modern-day symbol of Albanians regaining their country and their freedom: the period of renaissance.

EDIT: the newly renovated pyramid is now open in 2024!

Rummage for Hidden Treasures at the Book Markets

There are book markets and book shops all around the city. My favourite is on this bridge. Otherwise, there are some absolute beauties in basement-style shops throughout the city, where you can find books stacked up to the ceilings!

Wander Shëtitorja Murat Toptani Pedestrian Street

You will find restaurants, cafes, shops, market stalls and street art all down this one street. Its lively atmosphere really does make it the place to be in the evenings. Head over here around 7/8pm and take part in xhiro (Albania’s custom of walking pedestrian streets in the evening, catching up with friends and family).

Amble Through Tirana Castle (That Is No Longer Actually a Castle)

At one end of Shëtitorja Murat Toptani pedestrian street is ‘Tirana Castle’. Enter through the fortress wall, where the castle once stood, and discover an area with bars, restaurants, shops, photo booths, and traditional handicrafts. Once you have completed your xhiro down the main street, veer off and explore this new shopping and eating sector.

Where to Find Tasty Vegetarian Food

So, we had been travelling for five weeks by the time we reached Tirana and were craving Asian food really badly. Back home, we cook Asian dishes on the regular: miso, tofu, curries, we put chilli in everything! And this was something that we had been lacking significantly. So when we got to Tirana and realised there were Asian restaurants and vegan restaurants, we got a little excited and didn’t really eat much Albanian food.

Wondering what traditional vegetarian food Albania has to offer? Read this post here.

Oriental City Chinese

This is where you get the good stuff. We had been missing these flavours big time! Mapo tofu, sweet and sour crispy rice, and spicy aubergine casserole.

Chakra Indian Fusion

Indian food means plenty of veggie options. We ordered onion bhajis, dal, chana masala and garlic nan with a beer and a lassi. Definitely well off budget at 2700 lek. It’s a bit difficult to find using Google Maps alone. Head towards the cinema entrance and you’ll find it right next door.

Veggies

Again, there was so much choice for vegetarians (obviously, it’s in the name). We tried the ramen and the veg noodles. Both were great, and we would have returned to try some more options if we were in Tirana for longer.

Green and Protein

This place does big bowls of salad. Not just lettuce, tomato, cucumber; they do proper salad. Falafel, edamame beans, sweet potato, avocado, quinoa. We went for the ‘Wabi Sabi’ and the ‘Eda-Mami Protein’ which were both super tasty and filling. They also do burgers, wraps and juices.

Opa

Greek fast food. The halloumi wrap was a perfect quick lunch stop on our day of street art hunting.

Shkoder turned out to be one of our favourite stops in Albania and somewhere I could even imagine us staying for an extended period of time. There are several lovely restaurants with vegetarian options and plenty of unique things to do in Shkoder to fill a few days here.s It has a bohemian feel, great cafe culture, and a beautiful town with dilapidated historical buildings and amazingly characterful doors. If street photography is your thing, this is your place.

We arrived into Shkoder by bus from Kotor, Montenegro. And, initially I was a little nervous that we had booked to stay here for five nights. Where the bus dropped us off was a main busy street with loads of people and traffic: it just felt really intense. But, as soon as we walked in to the town, it started to grow on me and continued to do so the more we explored over the next five days.

Shkoder (Shkodër) is in the north of Albania, close to the mountains and the border with Montenegro. Because of this, the city is very often just used as a base, people staying for a night as they pass on through. I put this guide together to showcase this beautiful city and highlight that it should be a destination in itself. Find all the best things to do in Shkoder, places to eat, an accommodation recommendation and tips on how to reach Shkoder below.

How to Get to Shkoder

Tirana International Airport Nënë Tereza (TIA) is Albania’s main international airport and connects the country with many different cities in Europe as well a few in the Middle East. From here, there are many buses/coaches that will take you straight up to Shkoder in about two hours.

We took the bus from Shkoder to Tirana. It left at 10am, and cost 400 lek.

As Shkoder is the perfect stop-off point to cross the borders into both Kosovo and Montenegro, you will find plenty of international buses. To get to other parts of Albania, however, it seems that a change in Tirana is needed.

If transiting through Tirana, consider staying for a couple of nights to experience the capital, its cafe culture and learn about Albania’s recent history. Find out more about Tirana here.

Where to Stay in Shkoder

Our guesthouse was a stunning historical building in the centre of town, tucked away down a side road. InTown Guesthouse run by our friend, Renato, is the perfect place for a relaxing stay. It has a quiet and calming garden area, and Renato himself cooks a fresh breakfast for each guest in the morning (or makes a delicious packed lunch if you’re leaving early!). I am confident in saying that his outstanding hospitality (and willingness to try Marmite) hugely enhanced our experience in Shkoder. He is one of the nicest and most genuine people you will meet.

Top 6 Things to do in Shkoder

Explore Rozafa Castle Ruins for 360° Views

At around 4000 years old, Rozafa Castle stands tall on a hill overlooking the blue water of Shkoder lake while the Drin and Buna rivers snake their way around it. There isn’t a huge amount of information on the historical significance of the ruins, which is a shame, however, the castle provides stunning endless views.

The castle is at least a 45 minute walk out of the town, so I’d recommend hiring a bike. Your accommodation should be able to do this for you (if you’re staying at InTown Guesthouse with Renato, he can arrange it), otherwise there are places around town where you can hire bikes, notably Ekoclub. Be warned though, the last part of the journey up to the castle is very steep and cobbled, so we ended up walking up with our bikes. (It was great on the way back down though!)

The entrance fee is 400 lek. There is a small museum inside the castle for which you have to pay an extra fee, but it didn’t look too special, so we skipped it.

Once you have seen the castle, jump back on your bike and pootle on over to Shkoder Lake. Cross the main road at the bottom of the cobbled hill, over the green wooden bridge (watch out for the broken planks) and follow the road along the water.

Pootle around Shkoder Lake on a Hire Bike

Most people tend to head over to Shiroka on Shkoder Lake, and while this place does look pretty hip, hop and happening, continue further round (don’t go too far though or you will end up in Montenegro) to find quieter and more serene locations to stop for lunch. On a beautiful, sunny day Shkoder lake is stunning: calm, blue waters, mountains in the background, and if you’re beyond Shiroka, complete tranquillity. We stopped for lunch at Pelikani Kaçurrel. They have a beautifully decorated outdoor (yet shaded) seating area overlooking the water, as well as seating right on the water.

Combining a pootle on a hire bike up to Rozafa Castle and Shkoder Lake makes for a perfect full-day trip.

Wander in Search of Street Photography Gems

Wandering without a plan, camera in hand is my favourite thing to do wherever I go. And Shkoder did not disappoint. Find the residential areas a few roads away from the main part of town which are full of charm, real life, dilapidated buildings and street art. This is the true heart and character of this fascinating city.

Mother Teresa’s family lived on Rruga Ludovik Saraçi between 1932 and 1933; there is a plaque on the wall. If you’re lucky, like we were, you might bump into the owner who will show you round. Exploring all the side roads round this neck of the woods will reward you with some fantastic street photography opportunities.

Take a Multi-day Trip up to the Albanian Alps (AKA Accursed Mountains)

This is hands-down the most phenomenal experience Albania has to offer. Clean mountain air, breathtaking landscapes; I cannot gush about the Albanian Alps enough. You would need at least three days to get there, hike, and get back; and I promise that it will be the best decision you made.

If you’re up for the challenge (and you really should go for it!), read our guide on everything you need to know on hiking the Albanian Alps here.

Eat Delicious Albanian Slow Food while Supporting Charity at Arti’ Zanave

Tucked down a little side street, Arti’ Zanave has a beautifully decorated outside seating area by the side of the quiet road.

The woman running the restaurant didn’t speak much English, but did speak Italian, so I desperately brought forward all my Italian A level memories that have been stored away for an occasion just like this. We let her know that we were vegetarian and then she went away, worked her magic and presented us with this huge platter of traditional Albanian slow food. Fried veg with potatoes, rice stuffed pepper, veg moussaka, cheese stuffed aubergine, veg stuffed aubergine, mushroom fritter, fërgesë and bread.

It was good; by far the best traditional meal we had in the whole of Albania. The platter cost 1000 lek per head, which is pretty pricey in comparison to other local restaurants, but the profits go towards a charity that looks after women and girls suffering domestic abuse. Go to Arti’ Zanave for the perfect evening with perfect food while supporting a women’s charity. Win win.

There are, surprisingly, several traditionally vegetarian Albanian dishes. Take a look at our Albanian veg food guide to know what to look out for on menus!

Take Part in an Evening Xhiro

If you have not taken part in xhiro, you have not been to Albania. Head down to any pedestrianised street in Albania around 7/8pm and everyone will be there, walking, catching up with friends, kids playing in the street, vendors selling corn. Xhiro, literally meaning ‘walk’ in Albanian, is when the towns and cities come alive in the evenings with everyone taking part in such a wholesome activity.

Top Spots for Vegetarian Food

Arti’ Zanave

As mentioned above. Delicious slow Albanian food that helps to support women suffering domestic abuse.

Fisi

One of Shkoder’s most popular restaurants with tourists, and there are plenty of veggie options. Fërgesë, garlic aubergine, sarma, flia pie, imam bajalldi, stuffed peppers. Or you can order the oven mix which is essentially Albanian tapas (a little bit of everything veggie).

Pasta e Vino

Fresh pasta at reasonable prices. We had the classic aglio e olio.

Puri Restaurant

Away from the main part of town but still easily walkable, this is definitely a local joint. There is nothing veggie on the menu, however, the server arranged for the ‘father’s rice’ to be vegetarianised. Simple food done well.

Cliché

Not our usual scene as it felt quite upmarket, but it had a vegan quinoa burger and we got too excited about vegan food to say no. It surprisingly wasn’t too pricey and I finished my meal off with an affogato (not vegan, I know) but, wow, it was a good’un!

EKO Club

EKO Club is a cafe serving different types of teas, coffees, juices as well as a few snacks like sandwiches and cakes. It has a cosy atmosphere with really quirky decor. Also, a great spot for remote working because of the strong wifi and many power outlets (not just because of the great coffee).

When researching top things to do in Albania, everyone seemed to mention hiking the Albanian Alps from from Valbona to Theth. I honestly had never heard of these places, but when I saw the photos, it very quickly went to the top of our itinerary!

In the very north of Albania, close to the borders with Montenegro and Kosovo, the Albanian Alps is an absolute stunner. Some of the most phenomenal scenery in the whole of the country, maybe (dare I say it?) the whole of the Balkans, is right here. Crystal clear rivers, snow-capped mountains, lush green forests, meadows dotted with brightly coloured flowers and lofty mountain passes with views that seem to go on endlessly. Standing in awe, your mind clears while it tries to comprehend the sheer magnificence of what lies before you; almost like a mental recalibration.

Hiking the Albanian Alps from Valbona to Theth was THE highlight of our trip to the country, and our three month trip throughout the Balkans. It is a challenge and an adventure that definitely comes with logistical complexities, but that’s probably why we enjoyed it so much. The toughest journeys bring about the biggest reward, and yes, the views and the sense of accomplishment at the end will make it all worth it. ‘Venture further. Explore more. Journey beyond.’ That’s our thing, right?

I had so many questions before we took on this momentous challenge, and I’m sure you do too! So, I have put together a list of all the doubts that I had, along with answers to hopefully help you feel more confident in knowing what to expect when hiking the Albanian Alps.

Hiking the Albanian Alps: Q&A

What’s the rough itinerary?

Shkoder is the gateway to the Albanian Alps, so base yourself here. BUT don’t just use Shkoder as your base. It is a fascinating, characterful city and is worth at least a couple of nights of your time if you have them to spare. Find out all about Shkoder in our post here.

Day 1: Pack a small bag for your hike, leave your backpack/suitcase etc. in Shkoder. Travel to Valbona, explore Valbona.

Day 2: hike from Valbona to Theth, explore Theth.

Day 3: lie in/explore Theth and then head back to Shkoder.

There are obviously plenty of alterations, but this is the general gist. You could have an extra day in Theth and explore the Blue Eye, you could stay for a night on Komani lake to go kayaking etc.

Do I need travel insurance?

This is an absolute yes, always. No matter where we travel, we always make sure that we have Safetywing travel insurance because you never know when things might go wrong. I fell over with my 20kg backpack on and smashed up my knee, Chris knackered his foot on the cobbled streets of Istanbul.
It’s best to have something there already for when you really need it, instead of just crossing your fingers that it’ll be fine because you never know!

How difficult is it? Is it dangerous?

I would give it a 7/10 on the difficulty scale, and a 6/10 on the dangerous scale. Anyone with relatively good fitness and in relatively good health could complete this hike – (it will be a challenge, but if you’re reading this post, you’re already up for a challenge, right?). Just for your reference, my step count by the end of the day was over 40,000.

There are sections that are very steep, hang over sheer drops, or have loose gravel that slips under foot. As someone who is not good with heights, yes, I felt pretty sick when we reached the top and had to go down the other side. (Going down is always worse than going up – I always feel safer and more in control going up.) But it really isn’t bad.

Hiking the Albanian Alps is exhilarating and rewards you with phenomenal, breathtaking views that are 100% worth the slight discomfort.

How long does it take?

It can take anywhere from six hours to ten hours depending on your ability and how many times you stop for photos. Most people manage to make it across within seven or eight hours.

When is the best time of year to hike?

The best time to be hiking the Albanian Alps is between May and October as there is too much snow during the winter months to make the hike accessible. We hiked in June. The weather was perfect, and the route wasn’t really busy.

What is the terrain like?

You’ll find the terrain really varies. There are sections that are rocky, some have loose gravel that is slippery; other sections are very even and easy-going, some were muddy. I was very thankful for my walking boots at the uneven sections and was envious of the people with walking poles coming down the steep, slippery section with loose gravel!

Do I need a guide?

Not necessarily. For this specific route hiking the Albanian Alps from Valbona to Theth, the vast majority of people just go for it themselves.

It’s a pretty well marked route and you will undoubtedly bump into other hikers going the same way. The route is marked on Maps.me so make sure you download your Albania map beforehand just in case. We didn’t need to really refer to it throughout the hike. Google Maps has no idea how to get there though. It’s not easy to get lost as you will see red and white markers showing you the way. If you would feel more comfortable with a guide, this is something that you can arrange at a tour agency in Shkoder.

Do I need any special equipment?

The only thing that I would say really is necessary is a good pair of hiking boots that you have worn in well. I have sprained and broken my feet and ankles on too many occasions, so repeating anything like this on top of a mountain while hiking through the Albanian Alps for seven hours is not something I would want to risk. Other than that, I would imagine that a pair of walking sticks would help to take the pressure off the knees on the way down and to stabilise you when you hit the sections of loose gravel.

Can I buy lunch on the hike?

Maybe. There are a few places en route that sell food, drinks etc. (marked on Maps.me) but they are much more expensive than you would find elsewhere in Albania. Also, you can’t guarantee that they will be open, so crossing your fingers that you can get lunch on the hike is too risky in my book.

I would recommend that you arrange for your Valbona accommodation to fix you a packed lunch. Ours was not great. They gave us a roll of tin foil and our lunch to wrap up: two cucumbers, two tomatoes, a couple of slabs of cheese, a sour bread and two ‘hard-boiled eggs’ which turned out to not actually be hard-boiled. (I can strongly advise against eating cold, half-boiled eggs on a hike.) But, at least we had something. Top tip: don’t expect too much from the food in the Albanian Alps, especially if you’re vegetarian. Bring a load of snacks from Shkoder.

There are no shops to buy food in Valbona before the hike.

Are there facilities along the route?

Yes, there are maybe three spots along the route where you can stop for coffee or a snack and use the toilets. They are all marked on Maps.me. They do charge premium prices for their products (they have had to lug it half way up a mountain after all!). Make sure you bring enough cash.

Can I do the hike from Theth to Valbona instead?

By all means, you can hike the opposite way if you prefer. We met plenty of people hiking the other way. Most people tend to start in Valbona because the journey to Valbona is long, so they like to get that part out of the way first.

What should I pack in my day bag to take away for three days?

I would recommend taking all valuables with you instead of leaving these back in Shkoder. Unfortunately for us, that meant laptops had to be lugged up and over the Albanian Alps! Also bring something like a pair of flipflops – your feet will thank you after the hike.

Other than regular day-to-day items, take a refillable water bottle, a first aid kit with antiseptic spray, plasters, blister patches etc., a power bank (or even a solar powered one), plenty of snacks, sun protection and warm layers/waterproofs because it will get cold up in the mountains in the evenings, and a packed lunch.

And remember to bring enough cash for the duration. You can’t guarantee cards will be accepted or ATMs or card machines will be available/working.

Where can I leave my bags while I hike?

We left our bags at our accommodation in Shkoder as we were returning back to the same accommodation after the hike. Most won’t charge for this service especially if you book a night’s stay after the hike.

How can I book all of the transportation and accommodation?

You can either book each individual part yourself, which is pretty complicated, or pay a local tour operator to arrange it all for you. There are plenty of companies in Shkoder that can sort this out. It is standard procedure that accommodation in Valbona and Theth includes all meals purely because of the lack of restaurants and shops up in the Albanian Alps.

Most people turn up to Shkoder, book their hike with a travel agency that same day, and travel to Valbona the very next morning. Don’t worry about trying to book everything up ahead of time, which was one of my biggest concerns. I would recommend staying in Shkoder for at least a couple of nights before the hike and one recovery night afterwards.

Where would you recommend for accommodation?

We stayed at Guesthuose Natyra in Valbona and Theth Paradise in Theth.

When you’re up in the mountains, you don’t have so much of a choice and the general standard is lower than you would get in the cities.

Guesthouse Natyra

Guesthouse Natyra was one of the very few places in Valbona that served food: they have a restaurant on the side of the guesthouse. The room itself looked like a cute wood cabin from the outside, and the rooms had a small private bathroom with a shower and toilet. It was basic but was clean.

Theth Paradise

Theth Paradise again was a similar wood cabin style. Rooms had a private bathroom with shower and toilet, and were basic but clean.

All of our meals were included in the accommodation price for both.

How do I get to Valbona?

Well, it’s not straight forward, and that is half the fun (trust me!). The first leg up to Valbona in the Albanian Alps requires two minibus rides and a ferry.

Leg One

Get the bus going to Komani Lake ferry port. You can buy tickets from any travel agent in Shkoder. It will leave Shkoder centre around 07:30 and then drive for about two hours on a very poorly maintained, potholed road.

Leg Two

When you arrive at the ferry port, it will be manic (I’m not going to lie). Several boats do the same trip with slightly different stops, some take pedestrians only, some take cars. Show your ticket (that again you should pick up from your Shkoder travel agent) and you will be directed to the correct boat. Get on and position yourself somewhere with a good view because you’re about to embark on a pretty spectacular journey.

Komani lake is stunning and reminds me of Milford Sound in New Zealand or Halong Bay in Vietnam with great masses of land protruding straight out of the water. The land either side of the lake seems uninhabited, but don’t be fooled: the boat will periodically head to land where people will just appear out of the bushes to be handed packages of goods from the city – kind of like Deliveroo, I guess!

Leg Three

After two or three hours, depending on the stop-offs en route, you will reach Fierza ferry port. Jump off here and then jump on to a minibus going to Valbona. I recommend you buy your tickets for this bus in Shkoder too. You can pay for it when you get on the bus, but you have to cross your fingers that there is a free seat that hasn’t been booked. It will take you another hour or so to drive up into the mountains. You will be dropped off right at the door of your accommodation.

Settle in, maybe go for a wander around Valbona before getting an early night in preparation for the big hike tomorrow!

How do I get back to Shkoder from Theth?

This is actually so much easier than getting to the start of the hike in Valbona. A furgon (minibus) will pick you up from your Theth accommodation and drop you off back in Shkoder. Again, you can buy your ticket ahead of time in Shkoder. Some people want to experience the Albanian Alps without the hiking, and so they visit Theth on a day trip as it is only an hour outside of Shkoder.

Where is the start point of the hike?

The beginning of the trail is actually a good hour or so’s walk from Valbona, and depending on where your accommodation is, could be even further. To get there, you walk along the tarmacked road until you come to what looks like a car park. You will see a sign for the hike and two trees marked with red circles that have smaller white circles inside.

There will likely be several vehicles driving guests to a point further on from this. If you get a lift beyond this point, you’re cheating (totally kidding, folks!). It’s a tough hike, no doubt about it. Speak to your Valbona accommodation when you arrive and they will be able to arrange a lift which will take you as far as possible before the hiking begins. Or, just walk it like we did.

What time should I start hiking?

The scenery in the Albanian Alps is stunning! Give yourself as much time as is possible. It truly is a spectacular place and you don’t want to be rushing to get to Theth before sunset. We left our accommodation in Valbona at 07:30 and arrived into our accommodation in Theth at 14:30.

What is there to do in Valbona?

Valbona has several hiking trails you can find on Maps.me if you fancy a warm up before the big one. It is very much slim pickings on the restaurant front. Some guesthouses include meals, but its not optimistic for vegetarians. The meal that we had in the evening before our hike was not too special: lemon and egg soup, cheeses, bread, salad, plain pasta, stodgy risotto. There aren’t any shops where you can buy food here. We only found one stand that sells dried fruit, seeds and nuts, so plan ahead.

What is there to do in Theth?

Theth is a small mountain town with several walking trails (again, use trusty Maps.me). If you’re not knackered after your hike, go for a wander around. Head over to Theth church (Kisha e Thethit), and see this small building with the mountains looming in the background. It is THE iconic spot that you will no doubt have seen online when researching this hike. Not too far from here is a wooden hut that has cans and bottles of drink lined up around it. Stop here for a drink while you take in the most stunning surroundings.

There is also Theth Blue Eye, which is further afield and not easily walkable after hiking through the mountains for eight hours. If you have extra time in Theth, definitely head over here. We didn’t have time, but from what I have seen, it looks amazing. There are some restaurants and guesthouses which also serve food.