The mysterious region of Nakhchivan is a small, autonomous Azerbaijani exclave that is well and truly off the tourist trail. This is by far the least touristy part of the world that we have visited, and it was so refreshing! No touts, no scams, no prices bumped up for foreigners; but also no public transport, little spoken English, and very few hotels.

So, is it worth visiting Nakhchivan? Yes, yes, yes! Nakhchivan actually ended up being our favourite stop on our three week journey through Azerbaijan. It really feels completely different to the rest of the country, and this uniqueness is what makes it so special.

This guide will convince you to visit, equip you with all the information you need to plan your trip, and give you the perfect Nakhchivan itinerary for an adventurous three days in this bizarre yet fascinating region.

Why should I go to Nakhchivan?

It is a unique and odd destination that is well off the beaten path. In the three days that we were there, we saw two other foreign tourists out and about, and one other foreigner at our hotel. So, you will have the attractions all to yourself!

The nature and diversity in landscapes is stunning. Really, I’m not exaggerating when I say that the views across this area of the world are breath-taking. You’ll find green pastures dotted with wild flowers and peaceful lakes, dusty dry canyons with winding roads, desert landscapes with seemingly colourful sand, caves, salt mines, and Azerbaijan’s answer to Machu Picchu!

Nakhchivan city looks like it hasn’t changed since Soviet rule, and it feels as I would imagine it feels in somewhere like Pyongyang or Ashgabat. There are wide, multi-laned roads in perfect condition, but with no cars on them. There are huge complexes with shops, restaurants, bars, but there are no customers. It is fascinating and bizarre.

The people are friendly, and so intrigued to see tourists.

And it will be THE highlight of your Azerbaijan trip!

3 Day Itinerary

Day 1

Arrive in Nakhchivan. Check in to your hotel, and head out for lunch or a Turkish breakfast spread in the city at Dəyirmançı Kafe Türk Lokantası.

Then spend the afternoon exploring the rest of Nakhchivan city on foot. The top spots are in a small and compact area of the city, and are all free to enter. Keep an eye out for:

• Huseyin Javid Mausoleum
• Open Air Museum
• Momine Khatun Mausoleum
• Khan’s Palace
• Noah’s Mausoleum
• The new mosque near Yezidabad Castle that is marked on Google Maps as ‘Mosque’
• We didn’t rate Yezidabad Castle but you could get some interesting photos from outside

Head back to your hotel and arrange a rental car for the next two days.

Then go to the odd restaurant/shop complex around here for dinner. There are several restaurants and an ‘I love Nakhchivan’ sign, but there are hardly any people there. There is even an English pub!

Day 2

Get breakfast at your hotel before heading out for your first day of exploring deeper into Nakhchivan. (Maybe have a practice drive around in a car park first – I had not driven in over a year. I had never driven on the right side of the road. I had never driven a large car. And I had never driven an automatic!)

Drive to Alinja Castle. You will be amazed to see that there are only about 5 parking bays and at least 4 of them will be free, and there is no fee to park or for entrance. Get your suncream on, and climb all the steps to the very top. It will take maybe 45 minutes but it is solid up. Wander around the ruins, and then head up further still and you will find breath-taking, panoramic views. You can see why it is called the Machu Picchu of Azerbaijan!

Walk back down, and take five minutes to look around the small exhibits in the museum. Again, it’s free, but the staff are lovely and will be really interested to meet you. They probably won’t see any other tourists that day.

Now you’ll be hungry, but options are very limited. The guys at the museum recommended a restaurant a 20 minute drive from the castle, so we went for it. When we arrived, we realised that it was a fish restaurant called Aquamarine with no menu that does not accept card payment. It is a weird place in the middle of nowhere (there is literally nothing else around), but is 100% in keeping with the general style of Nakhchivan. We stayed anyway, and ordered some barbecued fish with salad and potatoes, and it was nice! If you eat fish, give this place a go.

Next head on to Ashab-i Kehf. Again there is no parking or entrance fees when you arrive. Ashab-i Kehf is a natural cave complex that has significance in the Qur’an as a place where people hid to avoid persecution, and is a pilgrimage site. Sets of stairs connect different areas of the cave.

Head back to Nakhchivan city for dinner.

Day 3

Have breakfast at your hotel, and jump in the car to head off to Batabat Lake. You’ll drive through dry, dusty canyons with winding roads before the road begins to ascend and suddenly the scenery becomes green and lush. Once you reach the top, you’ll find the two Batabat lakes, and you’ll not quite believe that you’re still in Nakhchivan. The lush green pastures are dotted with wild flowers, the temperature is cooler, the air feels fresh. Wander round the lakes, and take in the views before heading back down.

We couldn’t find any spots for lunch nearby so decided to head on to the next spot. Maybe bring a packed lunch for this day, or return to the city.

Head towards Duzdagh Salt Mine Caves. Officially, the caves are used for salt therapy to help with respiratory issues, but you can still enter to take a look around for free. Leave your bags in the car, and just put your essentials into your pockets – you’re not allowed to bring in bags, and just tell security that you would like to take a look around. It is just one deep tunnel that is well-paved and well-lit, so you just walk down and then walk back. But, you will feel the therapeutic effects of the air in the cave straight away even if you don’t have respiratory issues. It really was fascinating, and such a unique experience!

Jump back in the car and drive to Qarabağlar Mausoleum for your final stop of your road trip. This intricately decorated mausoleum is definitely the prettiest of all the mausoleums you’ll see when travelling around the region. It is covered in tiles in all shades of blue, and has a small courtyard out the front with artifacts. 

Go back to the city and maybe stop for dinner at our favourite Nakhchivan restaurant Dəyirmançı Kafe Türk Lokantası.

Is Nakhchivan safe?

We felt completely safe when we were in Nakhchivan in July 2023. People were friendly and helpful. We felt safe driving too.

The last couple of years have seen tensions rise significantly between Armenia and Azerbaijan regarding the ownership of the Nagorno Karabakh region. While Nakhchivan is nowehere near Nagorno Karabakh, there were clashes at the Armenia/Nakhchivan border in 2021, so it’s always best to be up-to-date with the latest goings-on.

Where is Nakhchivan?

It is a small Azerbaijani territory in the Caucasus region bordering Armenia, Turkey and Iran, but there is no border with mainland Azerbaijan.

How do I get there?

From mainland Azerbaijan, the quickest option is to take a 45 minute flight – Baku to Nakhchivan. Flights are regular, inexpensive and allow for plenty of luggage without paying additional fees. If you’re not up for flying, there is another option for a long drive through Iran. However, this was not an option for us as UK citizens due to visa restrictions.

From the airport, Nakhchivan city centre is really close – like a five minute drive – so you’ll easily be able to get an affordable taxi. When we visited in 2023, Bolt was not available, however, the Bolt website suggests that it is now available. If you try it out, let me know if it worked!

When is the best time to go?

June to September is when you are most likely to have good weather. We visited in July and had temperatures of 30-35°C with sun each day, but had thunderstorms and rain on our first evening.

Are there any additional visa requirements?

As long as you have your regular Azerbaijan visa, you will not need anything extra. Make sure your hotel registers you with the police if you are staying in Azerbaijan for longer than 15 days.

Where should I stay?

Nakhchivan city is the only area that we found accommodation. It also has several shops, restaurants and is near the airport. The accommodation is limited, and I guess that because of this, it’s expensive in relation to mainland Azerbaijan. 

We stayed at the Grand Hotel. It is not fancy by any means; it actually feels like it has not changed since Soviet rule. There are no non-smoking rooms, and the hotel had a kind of Shawshank Redemption vibe, but it does what you need it to do. The staff are really friendly and helpful, though only one guy spoke good English. And there is a buffet breakfast included in the room rate. So yes, it wasn’t really what we were hoping for, but in all honesty, the feeling of this hotel fits perfectly with the city. It is exactly what you want for a Nakhchivan experience.

What is the best way to get around?

Your only option is to hire a car or a driver as there is no public transport. The spots highlighted above are all very spread out and not really near any towns/cities. We hired a car. Our hotel arranged it for us and it was all very easy.

What do I need to know about driving in Nakhchivan?

Nakhchivan drives on the right hand side of the road. The roads are huge with many wide lanes, but very few cars – like, hardly any cars especially once you leave the city. The roads are in great condition! We didn’t have to pay for parking at any of the spots mentioned above, though we didn’t park in the city because we just parked at our hotel and walked in. Drivers in Nakhchivan are very relaxed, not like in other Caucasus regions (cough, cough, Georgia!). There are enough petrol stations that you don’t need to worry and plan ahead. Also petrol costs are insanely low because Azerbaijan pulls it all out the ground themselves.

We were never pulled over by the police. We were told that if they do pull you over for a routine check, and realise that you are a foreigner, they will just let you pass on through. Maybe it’s a communication thing, or maybe they don’t want to scare off the very few tourists that make it out this way. 

Honestly, driving in Nakhchivan is an absolute breeze; easier than driving back home in the UK.

What should I budget for 3 days?

All figures as of July 2023.

Return flights to Baku for 2 – £140

3 nights accommodation – £115

Car hire for two days – £60

Food costs for 3 days for 2 – £46

Entrance fees and parking – a big fat zero!

Our total was £373 for two people for three nights. So, yes, it is expensive in terms of Azerbaijan, and even Caucasus prices. But for a few nights only, and for such a unique and fascinating adventure, it is worth the cost.

What is Nakhchivan famous for?

Nakhchivan is famous for its natural-healing facilities in its salt therapy session conducted inside natural salt caves; its historical and religious sites; and Mount İlandağ, which legend says has the dip in its peak due to Noah’s Ark as the floodwaters dropped, and according to the BBC, being ‘the world’s most sustainable ‘nation”.

Where else should I visit in Azerbaijan?

Baku is an absolute must, and logistically makes sense as you will likely fly from here to reach Nakhchivan. We explored Azerbaijan for three weeks, but unfortunately didn’t find any other locations that we would recommend. You could spend 3 nights in Nakhchivan and another 3 or 4 in Baku to make the perfect week’s Azerbaijan getaway.

Baku blog post is coming soon!