Mtskheta is recognised as the centre of Georgian Orthodoxy, and a holy city (just like Vagharshapat is a holy city of the Armenian Apostolic Church). Mtskheta also used to be the capital city before Tbilisi, so because of this, you’ll find several UNESCO listed monasteries and churches all within walking distance of each other (except one), as well as cobbled streets lined with traditional buildings. Georgia doesn’t really have what we would recognise as an ‘old town’, but Mtskheta is the closest we found.

It’s only a half hour journey from Tbilisi, so it works out as a great half-day trip that you can do independently.

This travel guide will help you out with all the things to do in Mtskheta, where to eat, and how to get there without a tour.

History of Mtskheta

Mtskheta was the capital city of the Kingdom of Georgia from 3rd century BC to 5th century AD. It was the location where Georgia was declared a Christian state back in 326 AD, and you can even see the tombs of the first king and queen of Christian Georgia in one of the UNESCO churches here! The capital city was then switched to Tbilisi, and Mtskheta’s importance began to decline.

Getting to and from Mtskheta

From Tbilisi

Marshrutkas leave Tbilisi regularly from Didube bus station. Didube is hard work; it is manic. You can easily reach Didube bus station by metro, then walk through the market and brace yourself. Ask anyone how to get to Mtskheta (მცხეთა), and they will point you in the right direction. The marshrutka should have a sign in the windscreen with the Georgian and English translation. It’s about a thirty minute journey so it will only cost a few GEL. 

To get back to Tbilisi, hang around at the bus stop just outside the museum, or just flag down any marshrutka with Tbilisi written in the window. Pay the driver in cash.

From Borjomi

Marshrutkas leave Borjomi to head back to Tbilisi hourly (ish). Head down to the bus station and find a marshrutka marked with a Tbilisi sign, but tell the driver you want to jump out at Mtskheta. Buy your ticket from the desk in cash before you get on the marshrutka. We paid 12 GEL for the ninety minute journey. The driver will drop you at the side of the motorway, at a set of stairs. The stairs will lead you to another road where a couple of marshrutka will likely be parked up. Pay the driver 1 GEL, and he will drop you into the centre of the city, near the museum.

Top Spots to Visit in Mtskheta

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Svetitskhoveli literally means life-giving pillar/column. It is believed that a Georgian who witnessed the crucifixion of Jesus, brought Jesus’ robe to Mtskheta. His sister held the robe and died. She was buried with the robe, and from her grave began to grow a tree.

The original structure built on this site was a wooden church completed in the 4th century AD, but the current cathedral was built between 1010 and 1029. It is decorated inside with beautiful and intricate paintings (mostly from the 17th century), and has carvings and niches on the outside. Some Georgian kings have been buried inside the cathedral.

Make sure you have a wander around the grounds as well as inside. See the 18th century defensive wall, and some small characterful doors.

Museum of Mtskheta

Now, we didn’t actually go into the museum, but the mosaic above the entrance is reason enough to stop by. It looks to me as though it depicts the story of the tree of Svetitskhoveli cathedral mentioned above. Grapes, qvevri (clay wine-making vessels) and pomegranates are also shown. It is particularly colourful and striking.

Samtavro Convent

Samtavro Convent was originally built in the 4th century but reconstructed in the 11th century. The complex consists of the main church, a nunnery and a small chapel. Inside the church, you’ll see the intricately decorated tombs of King Mirian and Queen Nana – the Georgian monarchs who first declared the country to be Christian back in 326 AD. Take a look inside the very small chapel outside for some really old and intricate artwork from floor to ceiling.

Bebrist Sikhe Fortress Ruins

Understood to be built in the early medieval ages, the ruins of Bebrist Sikhe have largely fallen into disrepair. There are warning signs around as the crumbling structure is not maintained and there are some sheer drops once you walk up to the top. You’ll get some great views over Mtskheta.

Mtskheta Antioch

This looked great from the outside, but every time we tried to get in, the door was locked. If you have visited, please let us know what it’s like!

Explore Mtskheta Old Town

The old part of Mtskheta really feels like what I recognise as an ‘old town’: cobbled streets, traditional buildings, you’ll also find some souvenir stands near the churches. If you see our new mate, Mr Chunk, say hi from us. He’s the loveliest and chunkiest wee fella.

Jvari Monastery

We didn’t head up here because the weather was pretty grey when we visited Mtskheta. One of the biggest reasons to visit Jvari monastery is for the view. It is situated on top of a hill overlooking Mtskheta and the river, and you’d have to get a taxi out of town. If you have good weather, I’d definitely recommend going up to visit! If not, you can still catch a glimpse of it from down in Mtskheta.

Best Places to Eat in Mtskheta

Mtskheta is pretty small, but there are a few places that I would recommend for a tasty and inexpensive meal.

Check In

A pretty restaurant with seating outside by the river. We tried the vegan mushroom soup and the aubergine and walnut rolls. All really good.

Old Taverna

This (as the name suggests) has a more traditional feel to it. Quite a small place, Old Taverna serves typical Georgian fare. They serve tasty mushroom khinkali and a great Georgian salad with walnuts. Maybe steer clear of the crem of mushroom soup though.

Cafe Tatin

Cafe Tatin has a really cute and homely feel. They do serve food, but we only stopped for a Turkish coffee.

Or if you fancy getting some food back in Tbilisi, take a look at this restaurant guide.

If you want to find out more about traditionally vegetarian Georgian food options, take a look at this post.

Where to Stay in Tbilisi

We stayed at Magnolia, which is a lovely hotel with beautiful rooms with big windows, so that you can catch the stunning sunrise each morning! They serve a buffet breakfast, and have a roof terrace too.