Brasov (Braşov) is the gateway to Transylvania and one of the region’s most visited cities. Not only are there some really interesting things to do in Brasov, but it is also a great hub from which to visit the rest of Transylvania. It has easy connections to Bucharest, Bran Castle, Peles Castle and Transylvanian cities such as Sighisoara, many use Brasov as a hub.

Brasov in itself is a beautiful and historical city with attractions to keep you busy for a couple of days. So, if you’re heading this way, stay a while and make the most of what this relaxed city has to offer. A colourful, medieval city with cobbled streets and amazing street photography opportunities, a city viewpoint hike and some of the best vegetarian food in the whole of the country are just a couple of the reasons to stay.

Keep reading this guide to find tips on travelling to the city, top things to do in Brasov, places to eat vegetarian food, as well a brief history and tips.

Fun anecdote from the free walking tour: during communism in Romania, it was decided that a town would be renamed ‘Stalin City’ after the Soviet dictator. The two cities in the running were Brasov and Sibiu. If the city were to change name, any products that also contain the city name would have to change accordingly. This allegedly helped to make the decision, as Sibiu is known for its Sibiu sausage. ‘Stalin sausage’ didn’t quite bring the right connotations with it, so instead, Brasov became Stalin City in 1950.

A Little Bit of Brasov’s History

Back in the 12th century, German Saxons were invited to settle in the area and bring their trade with them. The strategic location on a trading route between the Ottoman Empire and the rest of Europe meant that the city began to flourish. The settlers developed Brasov with fortifications, guild towers and gates, giving the city its recognisable image.

A huge fire damaged a significant portion of the original wooden buildings and the city was rebuilt with stone that is still here today. Regardless, Brasov has succeeded in keeping its medieval charm. Wander around its backstreets, through the main market square and into its gothic church and you can feel the rich history.

How to Get to Brasov

The closest airport is Sibiu (SBZ), but Bucharest (BUH) and Cluj-Napoca (CLJ) are not much further away from Sibiu. All three cities are well-connected to Brasov by bus and train.

Trains tend to be pretty slow but are arguably more comfortable than a bus as you are able to get up and walk around. Read our top tips for train travel around Romania here.

Transport we got in and out of Brasov:

Bucharest to Brasov train: cost 56.3 RON and took two and a half hours, leaving from Bucharest Gara de Nord at 08:00. Now, to get to Gara de Nord station, you will likely need to get a bus as it’s not really in the centre of town. We had a rough experience on the bus getting there which you can read about here and learn from our mistakes! You can easily use Google Maps to pull up live bus times, and routes.

Brasov to Sinaia train: cost 16 RON and took about an hour, leaving from Brasov at 09:30.

Brasov to Sighisoara train: cost 45.85 RON and took three and a half hours, leaving Brasov at 08:45.

Brasov to Bran bus: cost 13 RON and took about 50 minutes, leaving Autogara 2 in Brasov at 08:00.

Where to Stay in Brasov

I wouldn’t really recommend the accommodation that we stayed in. There was no window, which is one of my absolute non-negotiables, but we didn’t realise until we got there. If we were going back to Brasov, we would book either Dinicu Residence – Central Location or MagicB up instead!

Things to Do in Brasov

Wander the Colourful Backstreets and Find the Iconic Spots

Piața Sfatului

Piața Sfatului was the main market square and meeting point back in medieval times before communism came in. During communism, the square was turned into a carpark which stopped people from meeting, talking and conspiring against the dictatorial regime. Now it is a historic square surrounded with characterful buildings: mainly restaurants and bars. Their seating spills out on to the square and creates a very sociable and inclusive atmosphere. At the weekends, there may be market stalls selling locally made souvenirs.

Biserica Neagră

Take a look at the gothic Biserica Neagră or the Black Church. It is believed that the name came from the blackening of the brickwork during a fire. The church was originally Catholic and then was changed to Lutheran. Entrance costs 15 RON, and while it was interesting to go in, there was nothing too outstanding inside.

I would recommend against paying the entrance fee for this one. For me, the inside of the building did not warrant the price. The view from the outside on the other hand is stunning. Wander round and see it from all angles, and make sure you see the decorated clock face.

Strada Sforii

Strada Sforii or Rope Street is the third narrowest street in Europe at 111 centimetres at its narrowest point. It was originally made as a cut through between two main roads in case of fire so people could escape quickly and/or help to put fires out more easily. It has a huge amount of graffiti along its walls, and makes for some interesting photo opportunities.

Biserica Sfântul Nicolae

Biserica Sfântul Nicolae (a Romanian Orthodox church) is stunning from the outside with its gated archway and tall pointed spires, but it’s the inside which is really special. There is artwork everywhere. And this is one of the few religious buildings that actually has paintings of the then royal family inside. This church has no entrance fee and is much more spectacular inside than the Black Church.

Poarta Ecaterinei

Poarta Ecaterinei (Caterina’s Gate) looks like a mini castle in itself with tall pointed spires typical of the Romanian style. Wander through and maybe take a quick look at Șchei Gate nearby.

Turnul Alb

Turnul Alb or White Tower has a lot of steep steps but offers great views over the orange tiled rooftops of the Brasov.

Head up to the Brasov ‘Hollywood’ Sign

You can either hike up to the sign in about thirty minutes or get a cable car. 

To hike

A short but steep hike, you can reach the top in about thirty minutes. We started walking behind Bastionul Țesătorilor (you can find it on Google Maps). There are several routes to get to the top and unfortunately, we ended up picking the steepest route with no proper steps; avoid the route furthest to the right! The others have steps most of the way at least and take you to the same place.

Once at the top, there are a couple of viewing platforms. The busiest is always the one at the V of Brasov, but if you walk a little further, you’ll get better views. With your back to the Brasov sign, walk back towards the main path and turn right, and keep walking until the trees clear where you’ll find a wooden platform. This is it! Perfect, uninterrupted views all around.

To cable car it

We didn’t take the cable car, but had heard it was about a five minute journey up and cost 25 RON for a return ticket.

Take a Free Walking Tour

Brasov has a really good free walking tour. (The same company also runs two tours in Bucharest.) When we visit a city that so evidently has a lot of history, a walking tour is a top priority. We learnt so much and explored a lot of the city that we wouldn’t have even known about otherwise. All the history, legends and anecdotes bring the city to life even more.

Find more info for tours on their website here.

Stop for Ice Cream at Gelato Mania

Gelato Mania always has at least a few people waiting to place orders. The ice cream here is so so good and is 100% worth the little bit of a wait outside (it just gives you a chance to decide on which flavour you’re choosing).  While we were in Brasov, we tried the blackberry, blood orange, kiwi and Nutella with banana; and we can thoroughly recommend them all. For 7 RON per scoop, you cannot go wrong.

Sip on a Flat White at Nola Coffeeshop

Our favourite little coffee shop in Brasov is tucked down a quiet side street with a beautiful outdoor seating area right on the cobbles.

Day Trips from Brasov

Get the Bus to Bran to see Dracula’s Castle

A dead easy day trip or even half-day trip. Jump on the bus from Autogara 2 to get you there in 50 minutes. Tickets for the castle cost 70 RON which is pretty pricey but if you visit Transylvania, you’ve got to take a look round Vlad’s place, no? Find out everything you need to know for your visit in this blog post.

Take the Train to Sinaia

Wow, Sinaia is beautiful! Castles, greenery all around, monasteries. It’s such a relaxing place to recharge and breathe in the fresh mountain air.

Best Places to Find Tasty Vegetarian Food

We honestly had some of the best veggie food in our Romanian trip right here in Brasov.

Manna Wanna

The top spot goes to Manna Wanna (previously known as Simone Bistro/Disco/Bike Repair Shop). The majority of the menu is either veggie or vegan and it’s done well. Not like the option that’s just been added on to the bottom of a menu out of courtesy for us veggie folk; it’s bloody good.

The menu changes depending on what produce they have that day. There is an outdoor seating area with a really laid-back feel. If we were living in Brasov, we would be regulars. Try the feta and quinoa ‘meatballs’ and a salad of charred leeks, olives, sundried tomatoes, preserved lemon, tabbouleh and seeds. Wow.

Ceasu’ Rău

For an authentic Romanian meal where the locals go, head to Ceasu’ Rău. Just out of the centre of town, it serves several veggie options. We had the zacusca (roasted veg dip) and the beaten beans with a hunk of bread, and they serve cider too. Guaranteed you won’t see another tourist here.

Sergiana

Another Romanian meal, more catered to tourists though, this restaurant is in the centre of town. The mushroom stew with polenta is good and everything is served with a massive basket of bread. You will not leave hungry.

Pizzeria della Nonna

The pizzas here are outrageous. The best we’ve had in this part of the world. Crispy base, tasty toppings and it’s all served in an outdoor seating area (that can be covered) while a musician plays guitar. 10 out of 10 would recommend.

As explained in my post Bucharest Bus Controllers and Squashed Bananas, we didn’t have the best first impression of Romania because of Bucharest. Now that’s not to say that Bucharest is bad: it’s not. It just wasn’t our favourite place, and this bad experience definitely tainted our perception. However, there were many things to do in Bucharest that we did like – notably the restaurants, walking tour and architecture. While I wouldn’t necessarily recommend for you to visit Romania for Bucharest, you will likely travel through at some point if you’re heading to Romania. Whether you’re flying into the country to visit Transylvania or heading across the border by train or bus into Bulgaria, chances are you’re going through Bucharest.

So, let’s say you arrive into Bucharest, you’re booked onto a night bus this evening or maybe tomorrow; how should you fill a day or two?

Where to Stay in Bucharest

We would recommend Global Downtown Apartments – Universitate – Balcescu for a budget stay. We stayed here and it ticked all the boxes. You have your own private space with a lounge area and a small kitchen so you can prepare your own meals. The rooms are quiet even though the entrance is from a main road, and the location is great for exploring the city and reaching public transport. There is a  minimum two night stay requirement.

LazyNest Residence and 2 Vis-a-Vis Studio – Gara de Nord apartments look great too!

Book Yourself on a Free Walking Tour or Two

Bucharest is a large city and so has two different walking tours, both run by Walkabout Free Tours, that target different areas. The ‘From Monarchy to Communism’ tour is a really interesting one, and our guide, Elena, was knowledgeable and hilarious. It lasts about two and a half hours and starts at 3pm.

Marvel at the Grand Architecture

Bucharest really hassome huge and imposing buildings, and we had great fun just wandering and taking it all in. From the stark, grey concrete of communism, to the fanciness of Neo-classical and Gothic, to modernism. There is a little bit of everything in a contrasting mash-up of flavours. Make sure you head over to the Palace of Parliament to see the world’s heaviest building. It has a dark history so join the waking tour to learn more about it. Or you can book a tour of the palace.

Keep an Eye out for Street Art

We found some great street art. We used this map to point us in the right direction, but are not sure of the owner of it. Bucharest Street Art Map

Head out to the Mountains

You can reach Busteni (Bucegi Mountains) within an hour and a half on the train from Gara de Nord. So, the train leaving at 08:00 will get you into Busteni by 09:30 which means you have plenty of time to hike and explore. Read our blog post on everything you need to know about train travel in Romania here.

Find all the hiking routes on Maps.me. Watch out for bears!

Gorge Yourself on a Variety of Cuisines

We went to a load of restaurants in Bucharest but didn’t eat much Romanian food because we got too excited about the huge variety of cuisines available. By this point, we had been on the road for three months and had only really been able to find Balkan food the whole way.

Beijing Garden

A Chinese restaurant (pretty sure you’ve guessed that already) where we ate for Chris’ 30th birthday! The food is delicious and the portions are huge. We had mapo tofu, spicy fried green beans and a mushroom chow mein between us. We are big eaters (trust me) and we couldn’t finish it all. Takeaway box, please!

Baba

An Indian takeaway that also has some seating inside. This is good Indian food. We were walking up to Gara de Nord to book our train tickets and spelt the spicy aromas wafting down the street. Our eyes lit up, so we quickly crossed the road to make a curry pit stop. We had the mushroom curry, Bombay aloo and garlic nan. Super punchy flavours at small prices.

Restaurant Amarin

An Iraqi restaurant with a beautifully decorated inside seating area as well as a cute outside lounge area. We had falafel, salad, hummus and bread and it was all really good.

Sublimmme

This is a fully vegan restaurant that serves really tasty stuff. You’ll find meat-alternative burgers, seitan shawarma, buddha bowls, smoothie bowls and raw vegan treats.

Black Habit

This is a perfect brunch spot. We had avocado toast with poached eggs and hollandaise sauce with a nice macchiato. Lovely.

French Bakery

A small place serving lunch, desserts and coffee. We ordered a quiche and a cake which were both great.

Indulge in the Coffee Culture

Perfect Simplu Speciality Coffee

A cute coffee shop tucked away down a quiet road. Beautiful inside décor with a little bench out the front and good strong coffee.

Ted’s Coffee

A coffee chain that you will find all over Romania. They do a good flat white with non-dairy milk alternatives. They all have jazzy indoor seating areas.

Five to Go

Another coffee chain that you will find everywhere in Romania. Most coffees will cost you 5 RON and they’re take away. It’s all in the name. Decent coffee for a good price.