We went into the small grocery shop to grab the essentials: water, crisps and a bottle of local wine. While paying at the till, I asked the cashier if she knew the time of the bus from Krusevo into Skopje (our next leg of our journey). She said she wasn’t sure. You know, fair enough, it’s always worth asking the question though. Next thing I know, she pulls out her phone, calls the bus company, and books us on to the next bus to Skopje on Monday! Thank you very much, you absolute super star. The kindness of people we meet while travelling will never cease to amaze me.

Krusevo (Kruševo) has legendary status in North Macedonia. In 1903, Krusevo fought and defeated the ruling Ottomans in an organised rebellion known as the Ilinden Uprising.  The Republic of Krusevo was established, and then existed for ten days before the Ottomans took the city back. The ferocity and bravery of this heroic feat is commemorated each year on 2nd August: North Macedonia’s Republic Day.

Krusevo is a small mountain town absolutely brimming with retro quirks and authenticity. Old stone houses have wooden garage doors hanging off their hinges while a classic Mini rusts inside. More opulent houses stand tall, proudly displaying their intricately painted facades. Tobacco leaves are strung up under wooden shelters to dry. Dark purple plums ripen in the trees. Brightly coloured tractors are left parked up on side streets.

Yet to be discovered by foreign tourists, Krusevo is a town full of history, pride and beauty: you will likely be the only non-local. Take a trip up into the mountains to breathe the fresh air and experience real life in North Macedonia away from the cities. You could easily fill one day exploring this beauty, and many people visit as a day trip from Skopje, but I would recommend staying for at least one night.

Find all our recommendations on top things to do in Krusevo in this guide.

How to Get to Krusevo

The closest airport to Krusevo is Ohrid (OHD), however, I could not find any direct bus connections from here. So, it would be easier to fly into Skopje International Airport (SKP) and get a bus from here. There are at least three buses each day to Krusevo from Skopje: 7:45, 15:45, 16:45.

We went by bus from Bitola, but there is also a direct connection to Prilep. There are no trains up into the mountains to get to Krusevo.

The bus from Bitola to Krusevo leaves from Bitola bus station at 12:20 each day and costs 240 MKD for the hour journey. You can buy your ticket in advance at the bus station using cash or card.

The bus from Krusevo to Skopje leaves at 07:00 each morning except Mondays when there is no bus. It takes about two and a half, maybe three hours to reach Skopje and costs 600 MKD, payable on the bus in cash.

What is marked as the ‘bus station’ in Krusevo, is no longer a bus station as such. It is permanently locked with a sign in the door suggesting you book tickets online at a website that it provides: the website doesn’t exist, hence the anecdote at the start of this post! This location is, however, still where the bus will pick you up and drop you off.

I used Balkan Viator for most of our bus info around the country.

Be Amazed by the Ilinden Monument

Also known as Makedonium, the design of this monument is bizarre: an abstract spomenik structure, classic of Yugoslavia, it really is ‘out there’ and not in keeping with the rest of the town. But because it is so unusual, it makes it all the more interesting to see in person. Inside, there are stained glass windows and abstract shapes in the walls. There is a small entrance fee of 60 MKD to be paid in cash.

Opened in 1974, the memorial commemorates those who fought during the Ilinden Uprising and the struggle for freedom during WW2.

Take a Scenic Stroll around Krusevo Lake

After you have explored the Ilinden Monument, follow the path behind the monument through some woodland and down to Krusevo Lake. It is a tranquil spot, surrounded by rolling hills, where you could sit for a picnic or just wander round the lake before heading back into town.

Search for the Intricate Detailing on House Facades

The majority of the buildings in Krusevo are not ornately decorated, so these buildings with opulent paintwork stand out like a sore thumb. The paintings show animals, flowers, patterns and are often dated. Just above the balcony doors is where you’re most likely to find the most detailed art. Keep an eye out.

Find all the Gritty Details in Krusevo’s Streets

Whether it be the rusting cars with flat tyres that have been hanging around for a long time, or the wooden gates that are all a bit wonky, or the exposed brickwork in the architecture; they all contribute to giving this town its character! We spent a whole day exploring every nook and cranny of this unapologetically authentic town.

Be Astounded by the Phenomenal Lokum at Tagas Balkan

Honestly, the best lokum (Turkish delight type sweet) we have tried. Nothing fancy, no myriad of flavours to choose from. Your options are nuts or no nuts. The texture is what makes it so special. How is it so soft?! Buy yourself a box and thank me later.

Watch the Republic Day Parade

If you are lucky enough to be in Krusevo over Republic Day (2nd August), you are in for a treat! There is a parade of people on horseback through the streets up to the Ilinden monument and then there is partying til dawn.

Make Friends with the Locals

We make friends with all the stray dogs across the Balkans. This area of the world seems to really care for their strays and it is so wholesome to see. We met some of the cutest stray dogs up in the streets furthest away from town.

Sat at a table positioned on the cobbles of the traditional Ottoman bazaar, I sip my strong, dark coffee while watching the daily life of Bitola unfold around us. Vendors sell their wares in the small market stalls with (what looks like the) original metal shutters, older men sit around in groups and play cards in the street, well-cared-for stray dogs come over to greet you with an excitable wag of their tail. Life in this vibrant and easy-going city moves at a gentle pace. Steeped in history and full of architectural beauty, Bitola is captivating.

We only stayed in Bitola for three nights, but I have such a soft spot for the city. There is no doubt in my mind that we will return, and it is somewhere that I would even consider living. Almost unknown to tourists, even when visiting the phenomenally well preserved mosaics of Heraclea Lyncestis, we were the only people there (bar the archaeologists!). I am definitely feeling the pressure to do a good enough job on this post of one of my all-time favourite cities. So, here it goes.

Bitola’s Back Story

The city was founded in the 4th century BC by Philip II (father of Alexander the Great) as Heraclea Lyncestis of the ancient kingdom of Macedonia. Bitola is one of North Macedonia’s oldest cities.

Located in the south west of North Macedonia, Bitola was situated at an important and strategic position on trading routes between Turkey, Greece and Central Europe. Its great trading power led to many countries opening up consulates here, and the city was therefore given the name ‘City of Consuls’. Because of this prime location, it has been subjected to numerous invasions and has been ruled by many different empires or powers throughout history, notably Ottoman, Bulgarian, Serbian.

The trading routes, the consulates and the continuous invasions have left Bitola with a real mixture of cultural influences. The old bazaar is in a typical Ottoman style, whereas the newer part of the city feels very Mediterranean European.

You could spend one full day exploring the city and Heraclea Lyncestis, or stay for a few days (like we did) and really soak up all the culture and laid-back atmosphere.

How to Get to Bitola

The closest airport to Bitola is Ohrid International Airport (OHD). From here, buses are probably your best bet. We were told by locals that the train service isn’t very reliable.

Buses we took to and from Bitola:

Ohrid to Bitola: cost 370 MKD and took an hour and a half, leaving Ohrid at 12:20.

Bitola to Krusevo: cost 240 MKD and took less than an hour, leaving Bitola at 12:20.

As Bitola is in the very south of the country, there are buses and trains that cross the border into Greece going to Thessaloniki.

Where to Stay in Bitola

We booked a room at Zaro Apartments. The rooms are modern and spacious, feature a shared kitchen facility and outside courtyard with seating. The staff were really helpful and friendly, even buying Chris a tube of superglue to patch up his beloved flip flops (another story for another time). A couple of roads away from Shirok Sokak, the apartment is in the perfect location: a five minute walk to restaurants, cafes etc. but still in a quiet spot.

Marvel at the Spectacular Mosaics of Ancient Heraclea Lyncestis

This is the main event on a visit to Bitola. A twenty minute walk out of the main town centre will bring you to the ruins of the ancient city. Inside, there have been excavations that have brought to life baths, basilicas and an amphitheatre, but the absolute stand-out part was the vast array of extravagant mosaic flooring that is miraculously well-preserved. Featuring trees, animals and intricate patterns, it is mind-blowing that these are still so bright and colourful, especially as the mosaics are fully exposed to the elements (there is no cover/shelter). Going to Heraclea Lyncestis is 100% worth the time and money just to see the sheer magnificence of these mosaics.

Now, controversial opinion based on all other blogs I have read on this archaeological site, the site and the ruins themselves are only ok. The whole site is frustratingly disorganised. The numbered plaques don’t appear in a logical order meaning we had to keep turning back on ourselves and searching for the next plaque. The info provided on the audio guide app isn’t great – if you want to know the dimensions of each of the rooms, grand; otherwise, it won’t be providing you with much insight. Go to this site with an expectation to see THE most stunning mosaics instead of an expectation of being wowed by the ruins of the ancient city.

Tickets cost 120 MKD. Cash only.

Venture Back in Time at Stara Čaršija (Old Bazaar)

Cobble stones, narrow alleyways, rusting metal shutters, paint starting to flake away to expose brickwork. It has so much character and is the perfect place to spend an afternoon moseying around the shops, stopping for coffee and watching the world go by. This place is real; not trying to be something that it’s not. You can imagine that it has been functioning in the same way since day one! And I love the place for that authenticity.

Wander Shirok Sokak Pedestrian Street

Take a slow stroll down Shirok Sokak pedestrian street, camera in hand. This is where you will find some really interesting architecture, consulate buildings (it is the city of consuls after all!), retro signage, market stalls displaying handmade products, and make sure you keep an eye out for the house with the sundial and the tiny church under a tree.

Behold all Aspects of Bitola’s Magnolia Square

Stop by Magnolia Square to see the flag of Bitola on the floor in front of a statue of the founder of Heraclea Lyncestis, Philip II, and a Kutlesh sun fountain (a symbol of Macedonian nationalism). Beyond these, you will see the historic clock tower appearing through the trees, and an ‘I love Bitola’ sign. On the opposite side, is Yeni mosque, and in the background, you will see Ishak Chelebi mosque. This is a really peaceful area at the end of the busy pedestrian Shirok Sokak street, with green spaces and benches.

Stop for a Drink at Bar Čaršija

Ok, so the freddo cappuccino from here is reason enough to go. We went twice in the three days we were in Bitola purely for this magic freddo cappuccino! However, the initial reason we went was the fact that this now bar, is situated in what used to be a hammam 500 years ago. The original Ottoman details are still present in the bar and so it still has all its traditional charm and sits here in the old bazaar.

Try the Baklava at Antep Baklava Shop

Now, we have been to Antep (or Gaziantep), the birthplace of baklava and home to the tastiest pistachios you will ever try; and this baklava shop comes very close. The baklava is really sticky, drenched in syrup and stuffed with nuts. We even tried a version stuffed with cranberries that was really good too. Situated here on Shirok Sokak, it’s in an easy location to pop in for your hit of baklava.

Go Hunting for Street Art

You will find street art hidden around the city. The green space around the House of the Army, Nikola Tesla Street, Shirok Sokak, Partizanska main road and Split Street are where we found the vast majority.

Head up to the Abandoned Planes Viewpoint

This really was a weird thing to witness. Walking maybe thirty minutes out of town and up a hill, you will find two abandoned planes that have been graffitied all over. From up here, you have great views behind of rolling hills, and Bitola city in front. Searching for ‘The airplanes’ on Google Maps around Bitola will show you where to go.

Restaurants in Bitola

Surprisingly, Bitola had a pretty good selection of restaurants catering for vegetarians. Another reason why I love the place.

Aurum Kitchen Bar

A twenty minute walk out of town, this was by far the best restaurant in Bitola with veggie options. It has a really vibrant atmosphere with a covered outside seating area and an art deco style interior. This place is always buzzing with Macedonians no matter the time of day; we were always the only tourists. Some of the servers spoke English, some didn’t, and the physical menus were only in Macedonian (this is the key to knowing you’re in an authentic place!), but there was an online menu showing English translations.

The breakfasts are beautiful: French toast with Nutella and berries, a range of fried eggs/omelettes with different toppings served with fresh bread (the Italian one with pesto and sundried tomatoes is the ultimate), and super umami mushroom soup.

They also serve pizzas, pastas, paella, bruschetta, the list is endless. Whatever you order, it will be outrageously tasty and you’ll be returning the next day to try something else.

Kus Kus

This place has a separate vegan menu, and plenty of vegetarian options too. There is an entire page of salads alone, falafel, veg stew, vegan burger, pizzas, pastas, risotto, melted cheese in a pot with bread. We went back twice because there were so many options for us.

2110 Fast & Healthy

This place serves vegan wraps and burgers made with seitan, chickpea patties etc. and pizzas, fresh juices and smoothies. We made sure we ordered two different burgers so that we could try more of the menu.

Heralded by many as the kitschiest capital in Europe, Skopje really is one of the most bizarre places that we have visited. The city is full of crazy contrasts that just don’t seem to fit together, but this is the beauty of this capital city: it’s unpredictable and keeps you guessing.

It seems though, that the local Skopje residents don’t share this feeling. Project Skopje 2014 was put in place by the then government of North Macedonia to give the city a more ‘classical’ feel. This involved the construction of many monuments and buildings as well as updating facades of buildings using a lot of taxpayers’ money. As you can imagine, this is particularly controversial.

Skopje is a lovely place to spend time just strolling along the water, stopping for coffee or a portion of tavce gravce (spiced baked beans). Keep an eye out for all the contrasts and oddities. Look up at all the grand buildings and huge monuments that have had this ‘classical’ feel added to them, and see that they stand beside the original Ottoman-style bazaar. Spot the classic London-style red double decker buses. Wonder why there are pirate ships moored up. See the shop selling elevators. Why are there so many statues? Everywhere.

Attending the free walking tour helped us to understand a lot about Skopje and answer a lot of our questions, but the more we wandered Skopje over the next four days, the more we began asking more questions! Skopje is a city that will always keep people curious: that’s its unique selling point.

You could probably see the majority of Skopje in a day, but it is also a great place to base yourself for day trips. So, maybe add a day or two on to explore further afield.

This Skopje guide will give advice on how to get to the city, our favourite things to do plus a day trip and a few other recommendations.

How to Reach Skopje

Skopje International Airport (SKP) has direct connections with a lot of European countries. If you’re based in the UK, you will be able to find some really cheap flight deals leaving Luton a few times per week.

There are direct buses from most North Macedonian cities to Skopje. There are also buses straight from Pristina or Prizren in Kosovo or Sofia in Bulgaria. It’s a city that is very well-connected within the country as well as with its neighbouring countries, so getting around should be pretty straight forward.

We took the bus from:

Krusevo to Skopje at 07:00. It took nearly three hours and cost 600 MKD each.

Skopje to Prizren at 16:00. It took nearly three hours and cost 580 MKD each.

Pristina to Skopje at 08:30. It took two hours and cost 8.5 EUR each.

Skopje to Sofia at 15:00. It took five hours and cost 1600 MKD each.

Discover all Skopje’s Statues, from the Extravagant to the Plain Weird

Skopje is full of them. Literally full of them. You will struggle to walk much of a distance around the city without catching sight of at least one. From a band of musicians, a diver, a bull, and a woman with shopping bags, to prominent historical figures; Skopje has it all. There is a diverse and eclectic, shall we say, variety of things and people portrayed in the statues all around the city.

Wander the Bridges over the Vardar River

There are four different bridges over the Vardar River in the main part of the city, and each one has a different theme. They are also all within a very short length of the river – you could probably walk across all four back-to-back within 20 minutes – so why are they all there? Who knows? It does all seem a tad excessive. 

The Bridge of Art has statues of Macedonia’s great artists and musicians.

The Bridge of Civilisations has statues of prominent figures in North Macedonia’s history.

Freedom Bridge has Macedonian shields and scenes portraying the struggle of the Macedonian people.

Stone Bridge is built in Ottoman style and ‘bridges the gap’ between the new kitschy part of town and the old traditional bazaar.

Learn about Skopje and North Macedonia on a Free Walking Tour

Take a free Skopje walking tour with Vasko. This is a really in-depth walking tour that covers everything from sightseeing, politics, controversial topics, history, food, you name it: Vasko knows the answer. The tour lasts about three hours and is one of the best that we have tried in the Balkans.

Mother Teresa Memorial House

Mother Teresa was born in Skopje, which is a point of great pride for Macedonians. The building from the outside looks like it is made of several parts of different buildings pieced together. Inside, however, there is a beautiful yet small display of information, photos and objects about Mother Teresa. It’s well worth a look, even if only for twenty minutes or so.

See the Brutalist Architecture in the Post Office and St. Clement of Ohrid Church

These are two really interesting examples of Brutalist architecture that are pretty close together, and they’re both completely different.

Walk around Macedonia Square

Macedonia Square is surprisingly large. There are several statues (shocker) around and different architectural styles in the surrounding buildings, but the main event is the huge statue of Alexander the Great and its fountain.

Wander the Traditional Ottoman Bazaar

The bazaar is small in comparison to say, Sarajevo’s bazaar, but it feels like it hasn’t changed too much since the Ottoman times. Grab a cig kofte (Turkish spiced bulgur) or a bowl of tavce gravce (a spiced baked bean dish), or wander round to find souvenirs.

Day Trip: Marvel at the Intricate Paintings of Tetovo Mosque

Tetovo Mosque is probably the most unique mosque that we have visited in the Balkans in terms of its shape and its decoration. There is not a spare bit of space on the walls or ceiling for any more art. It is everywhere, and it is stunningly detailed.

Buses leave Skopje’s central bus station every thirty minutes or so. Tickets cost 200 MKD one way which you need to buy at the kiosk inside the station. You can use cash or card at Skopje. At Tetovo station however, you can only purchase your return ticket with cash at the kiosk. The journey to Tetovo only last about an hour and is a comfortable ride. 

The mosque is maybe a fifteen/twenty minute walk from the bus station. It is intricately painted on the outside and the inside. There is no fee to enter, but a ‘donation’ is more or less enforced. Take your shoes off and cover your legs if you are female, and you will be allowed to enter. 

See Arabati Baba Tekke

You will likely only spend twenty minutes at the mosque as it pretty small. So, once you finish here, head over to Arabati Baba Tekke which has some beautiful and traditional architecture also. If you’re lucky, the market on the road leading to the tekke will be on. See tractors full of squash and melons, and stands absolutely brimming with colourful fresh produce. Grab some lunch at Dante Restaurant and Pizzeria (they do great pasta!) and then head back to Skopje.

Still got time in Skopje and looking for something else to do?

There are a couple of other trips that we missed while we were in Skopje:

• • • • Get the cable car up Mount Vodno
      • Take a day trip to Veles or Kratovo
      • Make a day trip out to Matka Canyon
      • Head up to the fortress
      • Visit the museums