5 Things to Do in Gyumri: a Day Trip from Yerevan

5 Things to Do in Gyumri: a Day Trip from Yerevan

5 Things to Do in Gyumri: a Day Trip from Yerevan

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While Yerevan is known for its pink stone buildings, Gyumri is known for its harsh black and orange stone buildings. Throughout our six-week adventure around Armenia, Gyumri was probably the closest we came to somewhere with an ‘old town’ feel. The buildings have character here, which Yerevan is lacking thanks to the Soviets rebuilding the city.

This guide will show you the top things to do in Gyumri, logistics on how to reach Gyumri from Yerevan as a day trip, as well as a restaurant recommendation that was one of our favourites in the whole of the country!

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

Where is Gyumri?

Gyumri is in the north west corner of Armenia, close to the borders with Georgia and Turkey. It is close to Kars in Turkey which is known as Little Siberia. And we definitely should have taken this into consideration because it was freezing when we visited, particularly in comparison to Yerevan.

views over Gyumri from Sev Berd

History

In relatively recent history, the city has been named after Russian czars and leaders – Alexandropol and Leninakan – before being named Gyumri shortly after independence. The population rapidly increased due to Armenians fleeing the genocide of 1915, but then a catastrophic earthquake in 1988 destroyed the city and killed tens of thousands. The city is still being rebuilt.

devastation in Gyumri in the 1988 earthquake

How to Get to Gyumri

From Yerevan

For a day trip, the best option is to take the express train from Yerevan Railway Station. It leaves at 09:15 every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, arriving into Gyumri at 11:25.

The express train returns to Yerevan, leaving at 17:55 from Gyumri.

Tickets cost 2500 AMD per person on the express train.

If you’d rather take a marshrutka, there are a few leaving from Yerevan’s Southern bus station starting at 10:00. The journey takes two and a half hours and costs 1500 AMD.

For all our top tips on taking public transport in Armenia, take a look at this blog post.

For the most updated Armenia marshrutka and train timetables, check here.

From Tbilisi

The overnight train from Tbilisi to Yerevan stops on the way at Gyumri. You will be arriving in the very early morning, but the journey is a whole experience in itself on the ex-Soviet train.

To find more about the overnight train from Tbilisi to Yerevan, take a look at our post here.

Things to Do in Gyumri

All Saviours Church

All Saviours Church sits at Vartanants Square in harsh black and bright orange tuff stone with the original church was made with the design of Ani Cathedral in mind. The 1988 earthquake flattened the building, but restoration work was nearing completion when we visited in early 2023. Make sure you take a look out the back of the cathedral as you can see some of the original fallen belfry towers.

all saviours church, things to do in gyumri, armenia
all saviour's church, gyumri, armenia

Huge Soviet Hammer and Sickle Sign

A little out of the main part of the city, here, is a huge monument harbouring the Soviet hammer and sickle.

soviet hammer and sickle sign, gyumri, armenia

Black Fortress (Sev Berd)

The Black Fortress is a circular black stone building upon a hill that was used as a stronghold during Russian Imperial times. You can walk up to the fortress for great views over Gyumri, and you can even step inside to take a look. There is no entrance fee.

sev berd, things to do in gyumri
sev berd, gyumri, armenia

Mother Armenia

On the way up to the Black Fortress, go to see Mother Armenia; a prominent strong female figure in many major ex-Soviet cities.

Mother Armenia, gyumri

Street Photography

Gyumri has many opportunities to capture interesting street scenes, whether it be due to the cobbled streets, heritage architecture, black and orange stone contrast, rusty Ladas, or old Cyrillic signs.

gyumri, street photography, armenia
gyumri street photography, armenia

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

Definitely definitely definitely buy travel insurance for all of your trips abroad. I know it seems like an expense that you’d rather not be having, but if you do need it, you will be SO thankful that you have a safety net to fall back on! We have used SafetyWing religiously for the last two years of backpacking, and we 100% recommend it, whether you are travelling for a couple of weeks, a couple of months, or even a couple of years. And it is the most budget friendly, best value option out there!
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Is it worth visiting Gyumri?

If you’re interested in history and architecture like us, yes.

However, I feel like a half day is more than enough time to see all the best bits, stop for a coffee, and grab a great meal before you jump back on the train to Yerevan.

gyumri railway station, train station

Where to Eat

Gwoog

One of our favourite traditional Armenian meals was right here. The place is small, so it might be a good idea to call ahead and book a table.

I would thoroughly recommend the panrkhash, aveluk salad, tatar boraki, and vana kalagosh. Now, these were all things that I had never heard of, but they were absolutely perfect for Siberian weather we experienced in Gyumri. They were rich, stodgy and warming vegetarian dishes, and most importantly, it all felt like proper authentic food without any touristy gimmicks.

The place to have an early dinner before you get back on the train to Yerevan is Gwoog. If you’re getting dinner back in Yerevan, take a look at this post for all the best restaurants for vegetarians.

gwoog restaurant, gyumri
gwoog restaurant, gyumri

Aregak Bakery and Cafe

And if you’re looking for a cute cafe, this is the one. Grab yourself a coffee and a pastry or a sandwich.

Are there any other things to do in Gyumri that I’ve missed? Or maybe you’ve planning your trip at the moment?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations and questions.

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How to Get Around Armenia: Your Complete Transport Guide

How to Get Around Armenia: Your Complete Transport Guide

How to Get Around Armenia: Your Complete Transport Guide

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Armenia is so much more than just Yerevan. Don’t get me wrong, Yerevan is an essential part of any Armenian trip and a city that we really love! But, to really experience the country, you need to get away from the capital. Go down south, explore the mountains, hike the canyons, find all the UNESCO monasteries, take the scenic routes. And how is the best way to do this? 

Armenia has the Soviet classic marshrutka, but it also has a limited train network, Yerevan metro, its own local taxi app, and a shared taxi system. After spending six weeks travelling the country using these five methods, we’ve put together all the info and our learnings on how to get around Armenia in this transport guide.

Our Lada taxi driver became our best mate

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

How Easy is it to Travel Around Armenia?

The public transport is somewhat limited compared to other countries, but we travelled around Armenia from north to south for six weeks, and had no problems whatsoever. In fact, we actually had some really lovely encounters with locals on the marshrutkas. Road conditions that we experienced were good, there wasn’t much traffic on the roads outside of Yerevan, and in general, people drive relatively sensibly. Though, I can’t say the same for marshrutkas in neighbouring Georgia!

kars to batumi

Marshrutkas

What is a Marshrutka?

The marshrutka is common throughout the ex-Soviet republics. It is essentially a minivan that runs from A to B, and you can get on or off at any point along this route. There are no specific bus stops other than the start and finish. E.g. If your accommodation is on the road that the marshrutka takes, you can ask the driver to stop right outside for you.

A marshrutka journey is generally not comfortable; you have little leg room, and people will be squeezed on regardless of whether there is space or not. And they drive pretty quickly.

But this is how to get around Armenia; it’s the authentic local way. You’ll meet people, and you’ll see phenomenal landscapes on your journey.

marshrutka, how to get around armenia

Marshrutka Tickets

For most journeys, you will pay on the marshrutka directly to the driver. They might come round before it leaves and take money, or you might just pay when you get off, but you will not get a paper ticket/receipt of your payment. For some longer journeys, you may have a ticket desk at the bus station where you pay in cash, and get given a paper ticket. 

For reference, the longest journey we took in a marshrutka lasted 6 hours, and it cost us 2500 AMD, which is about £5.

marshrutka ticket office, vanadzor, armenia

Marshrutka Timetables

The one and only holy grail resource for this information is this website. It will show you bus numbers, times, pick up and drop off locations, and estimated ticket prices. (And it will also give you an idea if there is a train route too). Use this only as a guide because marshrutkas are notorious for not being on time. You cannot book tickets online through this website.

abandoned bus station, armenia

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

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Luggage Storage

Ok, now this one is difficult. There is almost no luggage storage on a marshrutka. Armenian marshrutka journeys were the most difficult out of everywhere we have been in terms of luggage. We had a journey where there physically was no space, so I had to put my 70 litre backpack where my feet should gone, and sit with my knees around my ears. There was another journey where we both sat for two hours with our backpacks on our laps! My advice would be to get to the bus station early and get your bags packed up before anyone else gets on. You won’t have to pay for your luggage, unless it takes up a seat on the marshrutka.

Trains

The train network in Armenia is very small and only really connects Yerevan and some of the northern towns/cities, and Tbilisi in Georgia.

Trains tickets tend to be more expensive than on a marshrutka. You have to buy tickets at the station before getting on the train.

There is plenty of luggage space on the train, and the train overall is a more comfortable experience than the marshrutka.

The Yerevan to Gyumri express train that runs on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, is perfect if you want to see Gyumri as a day trip. Tickets cost 2500 AMD for the two and a half hour journey.

And the overnight Tbilisi to Yerevan train is also another train journey that I would recommend; it’s an experience in itself travelling through the Caucasus in an old Soviet train. Read about it here.

Again, I would use this website for train departure info around Armenia.

tbilisi to yerevan overnight train, how to get around armenia

Yerevan Metro

Yerevan metro is a convenient, inexpensive, and quick way to move around the city. It runs from 07:00 to 23:00 (which means it is the perfect way to get into the city after you arrive on the overnight train from Tbilisi). You won’t have to wait any more than 15 minutes for a train. The trains are clean and the journey is smooth – not like the juddery, rickety, deafening London underground back home!

You have to pay 200 AMD in cash at the ticket desk, and you will be given a small plastic token to put into the turnstiles to get on to the platform.

yerevan metro

GG Taxi

GG Taxi is a local Armenian taxi app like Uber or Bolt. It’s a great app, it’s user friendly, and I love the fact that it’s local! We were only able to set it up once we were in the country and had an Armenian SIM card. You can attach your card details to it, but equally, you can just pay cash.

The other thing to note is that most Armenians will have this app, so if you get caught short without internet, or you’ve just arrived into the country and need to get from the airport/train station to your accommodation; ask a local. They can call you a GG and then you just pay the driver in cash.

This is how to get around Armenia for shorter distances or for routes that just don’t have public transport.

classic lada taxi in armenia

Shared Taxis

Shared taxis are larger cars that maybe hold five passengers. They tend to drive shorter distances, and leave when they have a full car. We found some shared taxi spots marked on Maps.me, otherwise it’s a case of asking locals where to pick up a shared taxi.

Have you been to Armenia and use the local transport? Or maybe you’re planning your Armenia trip at the moment?

We’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations, and questions.

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How to Get to Tatev Monastery, Armenia

How to Get to Tatev Monastery, Armenia

How to Get to Tatev Monastery, Armenia

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If you take a look at the top things to do in Armenia, Tatev Monastery is undoubtedly near the top of every list. An ancient monastery perched on a plateau overlooking a huge gorge; it’s picture perfect. But when you take a look at where it actually is on the map in relation to Yerevan, it’s not a quick trip. So is Tatev worth visiting even though it’s a long journey? Yes, it really is 100% worth it! If you have the time, take a couple of days to head down south to the least visited part of the country, but arguably one of the most spectacular regions.

This guide will help you with how to get to Tatev Monastery, why you should visit, and a little history.

tatev monastery, armenia

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

History of Tatev Monastery

It is believed that the monastery was named after a disciple called Eustateus. But my favourite version of events is the folk legend that suggests that as construction workers were building the monastery, one of them fell. As he fell, he shouted to God to ‘give him wings’, or in Armenian, ‘ta tev’. And he miraculously survived.

As with many Christian buildings in Armenia, it stands where a pagan temple used to stand until the country declared itself Christian in the 4th century. Building of the monastery began in the 9th century, but has been extended and repaired since due to damage throughout invasions and earthquakes. Full reparations since the last earthquake in 1931 have still not been carried out.

khachkars at tatev monastery

Where is Tatev Monastery?

The monastery is located in the small village of Tatev, in the south Armenian region of Syunik. The closest town to Tatev is Goris, which is close to the Azerbaijani border and the area known as Nagorno-Karabakh.

Goris to Tatev is around 22 miles (35 km), but the roads make it nearly an hour’s journey.

Yerevan to Tatev is around 158 miles (255 km), or a 4 hour journey.

How to Get to Tatev Monastery

There is no public transport, so these are your options on how to get to Tatev Monastery below.

THE Best (and least expensive) Way

Make your way to Goris via marshrutka from Yerevan. Stay overnight in Goris and get a driver to take you the rest of the way to Tatev.

This is what we did, and it was the most amazing half-day trip! We booked accommodation in Goris (we’re a big fan of Popock!), and then arranged a driver through Popock hotel to take us to Tatev via several stops along the winding road through the canyon and up the other side to Tatev. The views were stunning the whole way.

We stopped at Halidzor Observatory, Goris Gate, Devil’s Bridge, viewpoints for Tatev, and of course the monastery.

We paid the driver 12000 AMD, about £24, for the round trip, waiting at the monastery, and stopping at all the above locations. The total trip was about 4 hours.

And how do you get to Goris from Yerevan via marshrutka? Make your way to the Southern bus station in Yerevan. There are two buses each day leaving at 9am and 3pm. The journey will take around 4 hours with a stop half way at Yeghegnadzor.

A ticket will cost around 3000 AMD and you’ll have to pay in cash at the bus station and get yourself a ticket. Hold on to it until the end of the journey just in case.

Take a look at our blog post on all things Armenian public transport.

how to reach tatev monastery, armenia

The Next Best Way

Stay in Goris, get a driver to the Wings of Tatev, and then take the cable car.

When we visited, the Wings of Tatev were under maintenance. BUT the Wings of Tatev is recognised by Guinness World Records as the longest reversible cable car in the world. It takes you above the Vorotan Gorge for a 12 minute journey of spectacular bird’s eye views.

However, it’s pricey. 9000 AMD for a return, or 6500 AMD for one way. You can buy tickets online here.

The cable car runs roughly between 10:00 and 18:00, though times change slightly with the seasons. And note that it does not run on Mondays.

So, get a driver to take you to the Wings of Tatev start in Halidzor. Then make sure you arrange a time to be picked up again as GG Taxi is unlikely to work out here.

wings of tatev

The Other Ways

If you’re not staying in Goris, chances are you’re coming from Yerevan as a day trip. While this is not ideal because of the 4 hour journey each way, it is just about doable. You can either hire a driver, self-drive, or sign up on an organised day trip.

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

Definitely definitely definitely buy travel insurance for all of your trips abroad. I know it seems like an expense that you’d rather not be having, but if you do need it, you will be SO thankful that you have a safety net to fall back on! We have used SafetyWing religiously for the last two years of backpacking, and we 100% recommend it, whether you are travelling for a couple of weeks, a couple of months, or even a couple of years. And it is the most budget friendly, best value option out there!
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Exploring Tatev Monastery

The monastery has no entrance fee.

There are churches within the monastery complex, so make sure you see all three – St Paul and Peter’s, St Gregory the Illuminator, and Holy Mother of God. There are also buildings containing ancient relics, and some with khachkars and amazing views over the gorge.

You could spend maybe an hour here.

As with many ancient religious buildings throughout the country, the monastery is only part of the reason to visit. The other part is because of the breath-taking panoramic views from the spectacular and isolated location. The endless views stretch far over the Vorotan Gorge. Make sure yourself a packed lunch, and sit with these views for a little while.

To get views of the monastery overlooking the gorge, head to this viewpoint.

how to get to tatev monastery

how to get to tatev monastery

views of tatev monastery

Where to Stay in Goris

The rooms in Popock Goris are beautiful and spacious, but the very best part is the roof terrace that looks over the stunning city of Goris. The on-site restaurant serves really good food (the best we found in Goris). Make sure you try out the breakfast spread and the Armenian coffee!

Have you been to Tatev Monastery? Or maybe you’re planning on visiting?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations and questions.

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Easy Day Trip from Yerevan: Spiritual Vagharshapat (Etchmiadzin)

Easy Day Trip from Yerevan: Spiritual Vagharshapat (Etchmiadzin)

Easy Day Trip from Yerevan: Spiritual Vagharshapat (Etchmiadzin)

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Recognised as Armenia’s spiritual capital, and the centre of the Armenian Apostolic Church, Vagharshapat (or Etchmiadzin) has many UNESCO listed religious buildings and is an easy day trip or half day trip from Yerevan. This guide will give you an idea of all the top spots to visit, where to eat, how to get there, and our accommodation recommendation if you fancied extending your visit to more than just a day trip from Yerevan.

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

Religious Spots to Visit in Vagharshapat

Etchmiadzin Cathedral – UNESCO listed

Etchmiadzin Cathedral is the world’s oldest cathedral, which is mind-blowing! The original church built at this site was from 300 AD, not long after Armenia declared itself a Christian country (the first country in the world to do so). 

Of course, when we visited, it was closed. But we could still see all the intricate detailing on the outside and around the door ways. Inside, however, are several relics that are vitally important to the Apostolic Armenian Church. Amongst the relics is the spear believed to have wounded Jesus at his crucifixion, which was housed at Geghard Monastery until the 1600s, giving the monastery its name (Geghard means ‘spear’ in Armenian.) 

The cathedral is situated in the middle of what is known as the Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin, a large complex with several religious buildings, new and really really old. The Mother See is the centre and headquarters of the Apostolic Armenian Church, much like the Holy See is the centre and headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church. While you’re in this area, check out the other religious buildings and sculptures around the complex, such as Holy Archangels Church.

etchmiadzin cathedral, day trip from yerevan

etchmiadzin cathedral, vagharshapat

St. Hripsime – UNESCO listed

One of the oldest churches in Armenia, St. Hripsime Church is understood to date back to the early 7th century. It is believed that Saint Hripsime was a beautiful Christian nun who fled to Armenia to escape the advances of Roman Emperor Diocletian. The emperor sent informed the Pagan King of Armenia about her and her beauty. When she arrived in Armenia and rejected the King’s advances too, it was arranged for her to be killed.  The church is on the site of where she was killed and where her remains were later housed in a mausoleum.

st hripsime church, things to do in vagharshapat

Saint Gayane – UNESCO listed

Saint Gayane (or Kayane) fled to Armenia from Rome with Saint Hripsime. When Hripisime rejected his advances, he turned to Gayane which resulted in a similar rejection. She was killed at the site where the church now stands.

st gayane church, things to do in etchmiadzin

Shoghakat Church – UNESCO listed

Another nun fled with Gayane and Hripsime, however, her name remains unknown. Shoghakat literally means ‘ray of light’ and was built to remember others killed during the period of time of converting the country to Christianity.

shoghakat church, day trip from yerevan

Old Cemetery

Not a ‘site’ that you would see recommended when visiting Vagharshapat, but we thought it was fascinating. Within the religious complex as you walk towards St. Gayane Church, you can capture a photo of ancient gravestones in the foreground, with the top of St. Gayane Church, and Mount Ararat in the background.

vagharshapat cemetery

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

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Where to Eat in Vagharshapat

Agape Refectory

We ordered several dishes here and while they were nice, we have had better food elsewhere in the country. However, you don’t come here for the food; come here for the building and the history. It almost feels like you’re walking into a wine cellar. The décor is oldy woldy medieval and the high domed ceilings are fascinating.

agape refectory, vagharshapat

agape refectory, vagharshapat

Բուխարի – Food court

If you fancy a less pricey meal that is arguably better, head to the food court just out of the main part of town. There are loads of options for local food as well as things like pizzas. Again, nothing to write home about, but if you want something cheap and cheerful, this is the spot.

Ցորեն սրճարան – Cafe and pasta

This place is cute! It’s very small and there are only a few tables, but it’s bright and has lovely décor. We had a pesto spaghetti and bruschetta which were surprisingly good.

How to Get to Vagharshapat

Get to Kilikia bus station in Yerevan and jump on bus number 203. It leaves every 30 minutes and is a dead easy journey. It will take no more than 30 minutes to drive right to the centre of Vagharshapat, and it cost us 300 AMD in 2023.

To get back, just hang around at the same spot you were dropped off, and jump on the next 203.

For more info on taking public transport in Armenia, take a look at this post.

agape refectory, vagharshapat

Where to Stay in Vagharshapat

If you want to make your visit longer than just a day trip from Yerevan, B&B Artson is a beautiful and affordable homestay just a short walk away from the main centre. It has comfortable rooms with private bathrooms, a communal area with cooking facilities, and outdoor shared seating overlooking a garden. There is also a shy dog called Mia who is lovely!

Have you been to Etchmiadzin/Vagharshapat? Or maybe you’re planning on visiting?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations and questions.

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Garni and Geghard: the Perfect Day Trip from Yerevan

Garni and Geghard: the Perfect Day Trip from Yerevan

Garni and Geghard: the Perfect Day Trip from Yerevan

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The best day trip from Yerevan is undoubtedly to visit Garni and Geghard, and the Symphony of Stones; a Greco-Roman temple, a UNESCO listed 4 th century church, and a bizarre rock formation. And it’s completely achievable independently, so there is no need to book on to a guided tour with loads of other people and limited time at each spot. We spent six weeks in Armenia making several trips from Yerevan, and the Garni and Geghard trip takes the top spot! This travel guide will give you all the info you need to make this day trip from Yerevan.

Looking for things to do in Yerevan? Read this post here.

Or maybe looking for the best vegetarian spots and cafes? Check out this post.

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

First Stop: Garni Temple

Travel Yerevan to Garni

The bus to Garni leaves from a small bus station a little out of town called Gai. It is in the wrong location on Google Maps, but someone has very helpfully added a marker for ‘the real Gai Bus Station’, so make sure you search for this one instead!

Take a GG Taxi (a local Armenian taxi app) to the real Gai Bus Station, which is close to a Mercedes Benz shop.

Get on bus no. 266, which leaves every hour on the hour. It costs about 500 AMD (prices may have increased, but it still gives you a rough idea), and will take about 45 minutes to reach Garni.

Pay for your ticket on the bus and ask the driver to let you know when to get out (or follow the journey along on Google Maps).

Also, I would recommend against sitting anywhere near the back. This is a very bumpy ride.

Garni Gorge, Garni and Geghard

History of Garni Temple

As Armenia was the first country to declare itself Christian back in the 4th century, most historic religious structures around the country are also Christian. However, this temple actually predates Christianity in Armenia!

It is believed to have been built back in the 1st century when Paganism was practised. It survived the conversion to Christianity, and several occupations until an earthquake hit in the 17th century. The temple was rebuilt and completed by 1975. It has a Greco-Roman colonnaded style, which is unique in the country.

uchisar castle

Exploring Garni Temple

The entrance fee for Garni Temple is 1500 AMD.

Garni temple sits overlooking the Garni Gorge, which means that you get beautiful panoramic views too. Wander round the temple, take in the views, but also make sure you step into the ruins of the Roman bath. It seemed that most people didn’t realise that this was here, but you’ll see what is left of mosaic decoration that lined the bottom of the baths. You won’t need much time to explore Garni Temple – 45 minutes should be plenty.

garni temple, garni and geghard

ancient mosaic of bathhouse at Garni temple

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

Definitely definitely definitely buy travel insurance for all of your trips abroad. I know it seems like an expense that you’d rather not be having, but if you do need it, you will be SO thankful that you have a safety net to fall back on! We have used SafetyWing religiously for the last two years of backpacking, and we 100% recommend it, whether you are travelling for a couple of weeks, a couple of months, or even a couple of years. And it is the most budget friendly, best value option out there!
Purchase your SafetyWing Travel Insurance here.

Second Stop: Geghard Monastery

Travel Garni Temple to Geghard Monastery

From Garni, you’ll have to find a taxi as it’s realistically too long to walk (unless you’re not doing this just as a day trip from Yerevan). We walked down the road a bit from the Garni Temple entrance to a small coffee place. While we were waiting for the coffee, we got chatting with the woman serving us. And she mentioned that her Dad would be able to take us!

So she called up Dad, and we arranged 3000 AMD for a drop off at Geghard, he would wait an hour for us, then take us for a quick look at the Symphony of Stones, and then drop us back at the bus stop.

Otherwise, you will be able to find a driver outside of the temple; just be aware that this is the prime spot to pick up a taxi so you might have to do a bit of bargaining to get the price down to a reasonable amount!

You could always try your hand at hitchhiking. Geghard Monastery is situated at the end of a road, not a through road, so anyone going that way will be going to see the monastery.

There is no bus to take you from Garni to Geghard, though it would make an absolute killing if there was a shuttle running this route!

interior of geghard monastery, day trip from yerevan

History of Geghard Monastery

It is understood that the beginnings of this monastery date back to the 4th century, but the current building dates back to the 13th century. The monastery is UNESCO listed and sits on the site of a sacred spring in a cave that still flows to this day. 

Geghard means ‘spear’ in Armenian, and the monastery holds this name as it housed what is believed to be the spear that wounded Jesus. It became a pilgrimage site for this reason, but the spear is no longer kept in the monastery. Instead, you’ll find it in Echmiadzin Cathedral which is the oldest cathedral in the WORLD, and makes another great day trip from Yerevan!

geghard monastery, day trip from yerevan

Explore Geghard Monastery

There is no entrance fee.

The monastery is located at the end of a road in a valley, and like with Garni Temple, the views are outstanding. There are several rooms and stairs and passageways to explore, so make sure you take a look round everything! You’ll see impressive rock carvings, ancient inscriptions, the sacred spring, and khachkars (cross stone – an Armenian intangible cultural heritage artform recognised by UNESCO). 

Make sure you go up the steps round the left of the monastery as it will take you through a passage to a room above the main part of the monastery.

And also make sure you head through the archway to the right of the Monastery where you’ll see a picturesque arched bridge running over a stream.

Is it Armenia’s most impressive monastery? 

I honestly think so. I was absolutely blown away by its decoration, how well it has all been preserved, and its stunning location.

You’ll need about an hour to see everything here.

Third Stop: Symphony of Stones

Travel from Geghard Monastery to the Symphony of Stones

Get the taxi driver to take you back to Garni via the Symphony of Stones.

Explore the Symphony of Stones

There is a small entrance fee of 200 AMD.

From the ticket desk, walk down the path, but remember to look up! In the cliff face you will see hexagonal shaped tubes of rock that are entirely natural. It is similar to the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, just the other way round (so sticking out of the cliff as opposed to out of the ground).

You’ll need about 15 minutes here. It’s a quick one, but a really interesting rock formation to view!

symphony of stones, garni and geghard

Back to Yerevan

Tell your taxi driver you are heading back to Yerevan and he will drop you at the nearest bus stop (there are several in Garni). Wait until you see the 266 bus, and jump back on.

Arrive back at the real Gai Bus Station, and order yourself a GG Taxi back to your accommodation.

Take a look at our post on Armenian public transport for more tips!

Have you been to Garni or Geghard?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations and questions.

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Top Tips for the Tbilisi to Yerevan Train

Top Tips for the Tbilisi to Yerevan Train

Top Tips for the Tbilisi to Yerevan Train

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For a budget backpacker, an overnight journey always feels like a win because you save on a night’s accommodation! And while you save money, you often lose the will to live once you arrive at your destination because you are so knackered from the night before. Now, don’t get me wrong, the overnight Tbilisi to Yerevan train isn’t strictly an exception to the rule; you will be tired. But, because of the timings of border crossings, and the (half) decent sleeping conditions, you’ll likely be in a better state than you were expecting when you get to the other side. Also, this is an experience in and of itself!

We have put together this guide to share all our tips on taking the Tbilisi to Yerevan train overnight, and hopefully answer the questions that you might have.

 

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Where to Stay in Tbilisi

We stayed at Magnolia, which is a lovely hotel with beautiful rooms with big windows, so that you can catch the stunning sunrise each morning! They serve a buffet breakfast, and have a roof terrace too.

How long is the journey?

Our journey took about eleven hours. Obviously, if there is a hold-up at the border for whatever reason, the time could vary, but this gives you a general idea. The train leaves Tbilisi Central Station promptly at 20:20, and we arrived into Yerevan Railway Station at about 07:00 the next day.

What are the sleeping arrangements like?

Well, it depends on your ticket. Fancy first class is two beds in a cabin, second class is four bunks in a cabin, while third class is an open carriage with loads of bunks (only ever two bunks high). We travelled in third class, and honestly, it was pretty good. Everyone was given a beige sheet, pillow and pillowcase, and the bunks themselves were comfortable enough.

tbilisi to yerevan train

What facilities are on board?

There are toilets and evidently a shower (because we were given a towel with our bedding), but we didn’t try it out.

There is nowhere to buy food on board, so you need to buy everything that you would need for the whole journey in Tbilisi beforehand. Some people brought small kettles with them. Others brought litre bottles of vodka. There is a water dispenser, but I would still recommend bringing your own water.

The top bunks have access to a thin window, while the bottom bunks have a small table in between them. Each bunk has power outlets, reading lights, a couple of hooks to hang up jackets and a pocket to put your important stuff in while you sleep.

The bottom bunks have luggage storage under the bunks, while the top bunks have luggage storage above the bunks. So if you have heavy bags, it’s better to go for the lower bunks.

night bus from Plovdiv to Istanbul

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How is best to buy tickets?

We bought our tickets at Tbilisi Central station as we didn’t have much luck working out how to do it online. When you reach the station take the escalators to the top floor, and take a ticket from the machine. (There was no one there when we arrived, but still, we were asked to take a ticket.)

Make sure you have cash and your passport with you. If you need cash, the Liberty ATM on the floor below by the Turkish coffee stand does not charge withdrawal fees.

Our third class tickets cost 85.8 GEL each. 

I would always recommend booking the tickets at least a few days in advance. Having said that though, there were people buying tickets on the day while we were waiting for the Tbilisi to Yerevan train; they got on with no problems.

How often does the train run?

Now, this is something that is forever changing. Back in the olden days (I mean 2022/23), the Tbilisi to Yerevan train ran every evening in the summer months, and every odd-numbered date in the winter months. This year (2024), my understanding is that the odd-numbered date rule has remained throughout the whole year of 2023 and into 2024. My advice would be to assume that you can only travel on this train every other day, and to be super flexible with accommodation plans.

What is the Georgia border crossing like?

You should get to the Georgia border crossing at around 22:00. Everyone had to get off the train and queue to have passports checked and stamped. Once everyone has a stamp and is back on the train, border security walks the full length of the train to double check all the stamps have been issued. The whole process took 60 – 90 minutes.

What is the Armenia border crossing like?

We got to the border at around 00:30. The border guards came on to the train with portable passport checking devices. They scanned everyone’s passports, and stamped them on board. We were the only non-Russian speakers on the train, and so we were unable to communicate with the border guards. Maybe this was a blessing in disguise, because they couldn’t ask us any questions! Again, this probably took about 60 – 90 minutes.

Arrival into Yerevan

So, the rest of the journey is smooth sailing until you reach Yerevan at around 07:00, so you could get a good five hours of solid sleep.

Onward travel in Yerevan

Yerevan Railway Station is right next to Sasuntsi David metro station, so you can use this to get into the centre of the city. The metro starts running at around 07:30, so no need to rush off the sleeper train! You’ll need to pay 100 AMD in cash for a plastic token to ride the metro. There is an ATM in the metro if you haven’t got any local currency yet.

Otherwise, you can jump in a taxi. I would recommend downloading GG Taxi, a local Armenian taxi app so that you don’t have to barter with the drivers. You’ve only just entered the country, you don’t know the going rate of a taxi ride, haven’t got a grasp of the new currency yet either, and are tired, which means that taxi drivers are likely to rip you off! Sasuntsi David metro station supposedly has free wifi. If not, see if a local could call you a GG, you can jump in and pay in cash. Everything that you need know about taking public transport in Yerevan is right here in this post.

Read our top things to do in Yerevan here and the best restaurants for vegetarians here – the falafel wrap game is strong!

So what was the whole experience like overall?

It was pretty painless actually. The train left on time, the beds were comfortable enough, the border crossings were smooth. My main criticism is the fact that the third class area doesn’t have much ventilation which means that the air gets very breathy and sweaty. It didn’t seem the healthiest especially in the post-COVID era.

But would I recommend the Tbilisi to Yerevan train? Yes. It was an experience to get the old Soviet train to take you from A to B, and it was more comfortable than a marshrutka would have been.

Don’t fancy an 11-hour sleeper train?

I get it, it’s not everyone’s bag. There are a few marshrutkas that run this route every day from Avlabari and Ortachala bus stations in Tbilisi. They tend to leave when they are full, so turn up early and prepare yourself for an hour or so’s wait. The marshrutka will then arrive into Kilikia bus station in Yerevan.

The journey is quicker and cheaper than the train, so if you’ve done the old Soviet train thing, and are just looking to get the journey done, this alternative might be for you. 

Marshrutkas are small, have little leg room or luggage space, can get really uncomfortably packed and claustrophobic, and the drivers are generally not the most cautious. Read our guide to all things marshrutka here.

Fancy giving this route a go? Or have you already taken the overnight Tbilisi to Yerevan train?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

Thanks for reading!

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