The full Turkish breakfast spread is honestly one of our top reasons for loving Turkey. I would fly back to Istanbul or Van, in particular, just to eat their phenomenal breakfasts. 

Different regions of the country have different takes on the individual dishes that make up a Turkish breakfast. The beginnings of this breakfast tradition seems to be traced back to Van in the very east of the country, home to a huge Kurdish population and close to the border with Iran.

Since the popularity of the Van breakfast has increased, more restaurants have opened up in other areas of the country, notably Istanbul.

A full Turkish breakfast spread, called serpme kahvaltı in Turkish, is a way to bring people together, socialise and enjoy life at a slow pace. It is a common occurrence at the weekends when people have more time than during the week.

People get together and enjoy a leisurely breakfast over a few hours, tucking into the huge variety of small dishes (usually at least fifteen!) and sipping tea (cay). 

The word ‘kahvaltı’ literally means ‘before coffee’ in Turkish. The breakfast is accompanied with plenty of cay, and then can be finished off with a thick and dark Turkish coffee.

It’s a traditional, cultural and wholesome activity, and I really feel that you haven’t properly experienced Turkey until you have had yourself a proper serpme kahvaltı. 

Loosen your belt, you are in for an absolute treat.

The Main Elements of a Full Turkish Breakfast Spread

Cay

Cay (pronounced chai) is Turkish black tea that is served with all breakfast spreads. If you go to the right places, you might even get unlimited cay. But make sure you check before you order more cay.

Made from black tea leaves, cay is a Turkish institution and is drunk by Turks all day every day. Maybe add a cube of sugar to your dainty tulip-shaped glass of the amber liquid. Without cay, it’s not breakfast.

Bread

Turks know how to do bread; whether it be a flatbread, a sesame seed topped bagel called simit or a regular loaf, you’ll need plenty of this to mop up the juices and use as a vehicle to carry all of what’s to come.

Eggs

This is likely to be the only hot element of the breakfast. This can come in several different forms – fried, omelette, scrambled, boiled – but our favourite is the classic menemen. Menemen is a Turkish scrambled egg with peppers, onions, tomatoes, garlic and spices mixed in.

Some breakfasts serve the eggs with sucuk which is a spiced sausage, so if you are vegetarian, specify beforehand and opt for a menemen or just the egg without the sausage.

Cheeses

You’ll find at least three different types of cheese usually. Very often a string cheese (dil peyniri) which is mild in flavour, and then whatever the local specialities are.

Acuka

This is punchy paste made of red peppers, chilli, herbs, salt and walnuts. Spread a small amount on some bread with some of the cheese.

Olives

Black and green olives are always served. Sometimes they have been marinated in herbs and spices to really give them a kick.

Za’atar and Olive Oil

A small pot of za’atar is served alongside a small pot of oil. Dip your bread into the oil and then into the za’atar spice mix of sumac and toasted sesame seeds.

Tomato and Cucumber

This keeps things light and fresh. They are often topped with salt and herbs to really bring the flavours out.

Bal-kaymak

Bal-kaymak is a rich clotted cream that is served with honey. This was my absolute favourite part of the spread. It is so indulgent, creamy, rich, sweet and sticky. Spread on to a piece of bread of fried dough (pisi).

Jams

The jams that we received in our breakfast spreads were always very different to those we have back home in the UK. They are generally very sticky and contain a lot of whole fruit. You’ll usually have a selection of three. Our favourites were fig, apricot and cherry.

Extra Elements of the Full Turkish Breakfast Spread

Sigara Borek

Filo pastry is wrapped around a stretchy cheese and deep fried, leaving a crunchy exterior and a gooey centre. These are great dipped in acuka (spicy red pepper paste).

Tahini Molasses

Rich and creamy sesame seed paste is mixed with a grape molasses to sweeten it up.

Pisi

Pisi is a fried dough that is a perfect match with the bal-kaymak (honey and clotted cream) or a fruit jam.

Nutella and Nut Butters

Nutella and nut butters add a sweet and creamy richness. Again, a great combination with the pisi fried dough. We received a hazelnut paste on a couple of occasions that tasted just like the creamy part inside a Kinder Bueno.

Regional Variations

Gaziantep/Syrian influence

We had a homemade breakfast spread made by our AirBnB host in Gaziantep who is Syrian. He made aubergine spreads, moutabel and a thick aubergine and garlic paste; and a herby and spicy yoghurt dip.

We finished off the breakfast with a pistachio coffee instead of a Turkish coffee as Gaziantep is the home of the tastiest pistachios!

Van

We received two dishes that we couldn’t even distinguish either by looking or tasting them so had to ask for clarification. Murtuga is egg and flour fried in oil, and Kavut is a halva that is more liquid and quite sandy in texture. These two are very specific to this region and I would put them in the ‘acquired taste’ category. We weren’t 100% sold on them.

However, Van cheeses are beautiful and so distinctive as they are packed full of strong tasting local herbs. You will have otlu peynir which is a softer cheese full of herbs and then a crumbly feta textured cheese which is really punchy.

Our Favourite Spots for Full Turkish Breakfast Spreads

Matbah-ı Van in Van

Fresh bread made on site by a couple of women baking in the restaurant, honey on the comb with a beautifully rich clotted cream, four different types of cheeses with herbs running through, menemen and fried eggs, whole fruit jams and cay served in traditional stacked teapots (which was unlimited), as well as all the other elements.

Phenomenal food, authentic and beautiful setting. Take me back!

Velvet Cafe in Balat in Istanbul

Definitely the classiest place we had a Turkish spread. The restaurant has a vintage feel about it with old telephones and vases, and tables decorated with lace doilies.

Expect nut butters, jams, acuka, flavoured butters, hot peppers with cheese, tahini molasses, fried dough and plenty more.

Bumba Breakfast Club in Alaçatı 

This place is dangerous. It’s an ‘eat as much as you possibly can’ type place, so there are unlimited refills of everything. Along with all the other elements, this place serves mini pancakes and other savoury spreads also.

The restaurant is home to many tortoises that roam the grounds, so watch where you put your foot!

Portafari in Istanbul

I wouldn’t put this one in the traditional category because it comes with chips, but aside from that, this breakfast was beautiful. You’ll get a huge selection of sweet spreads – jams, Nutella, hazelnut spread; as well as sigara borek and unlimited tea alongside the other elements.

Cakmak Kahvaltı Salonu on Breakfast Street in Beşiktaş, Istanbul

Yes, there is a street full of eateries specialising in breakfast. Cakmak was the one we went for. There were less elements than what we were used to, but everything was really tasty and they provide unlimited tea.

Mardin Galatist Kafe & Kahvaltı in Mardin

This place has a phenomenal view over the plains of Ancient Mesopotamia (it’s actually the picture we use for our main image on our home page). The spread included most of the main elements and also came with a cold fried potato dish, creamy vegetable spreads and unlimited tea.

Cappadocia has some of the most bizarre and unique, yet breath-taking landscapes, and because of this, hot air ballooning is wildly popular: I’m sure you’ve seen the iconic sunrise photos with the skies teeming with colourful hot air balloons.

While the balloons and sunrise photos really are stunning, there is also so much more to Cappadocia to be explored. Wander the narrow paths of an ancient underground city, hike through valleys with otherworldly rock formations, seek out tea shops in the most obscure locations, climb into abandoned cave churches with ancient yet vibrant artwork, discover historic castles carved out of volcanic rock.

Cappadocia is brimming with mysterious beauty and history; you’ll be standing in awe. It has to be one of our favourite destinations that we have explored thanks to its uniqueness and variety of different attractions. This guide gives you the top things to do in Cappadocia beyond the hot air balloons and typical social media tourism, as well as the things that are really not worth your time or money.

History of Cappadocia and its Cave Structures

Cappadocia was a highly volcanic area millions of years ago. After volcanic eruptions left a layer of ash over the region, it solidified into soft volcanic rock known as tuff. Over time, general weathering and erosion took place and left the region with the bizarre, otherworldly rock formations that attract visitors far and wide.

Originally known as Hatti as far back as the Bronze Age, modern day Cappadocia was the homeland of the Hittite empire. When the Hittite empire dissolved in the 6th century BC, the region was then run by the Roman Empire. The population of Cappadocia were Greek speaking Christians, hence the Orthodox Christian paintings inside the cave churches throughout the region. To avoid persecution during wars and Ottoman rule, underground cities such as Derinkuyu were built to hide and protect the population.

In 1923, Turkey expelled its Christian population to Greece, leaving the underground cities, cave churches and dwellings in fairy chimneys abandoned and unknown.

Where to Base Yourself in Cappadocia

Goreme is the main spot where tourists stay. It is in a great location within walking distance to many valleys, museums and a bus ride away from the underground cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymakli. There are restaurants, shops, ATMs, a small bus station and tour agencies. Goreme is where we would recommend you stay.

For a more authentic feel, you could base yourself in Uchisar. However, it’s quite a walk away from a lot of the valleys and museums. Uchisar is a really pretty town set up on a hill with a cave castle right at the top. There are restaurants, shops etc. however, when we visited in November, there was very little open and very little going on.

How to Get to Goreme

Cappadocia is the name of a large region in the centre of Turkey, while Goreme is a small town within Cappadocia.

Goreme is serviced by several buses, but if you are unable to find a bus there, take a bus to neraby Nevsehir or Kayseri from which you can easily get a local bus or taxi transfer into Goreme.

Bus journeys to Goreme are long if you’re coming from other major tourists destinations in Turkey. Gaziantep to Nevsehir is a seven hour journey. Istanbul to Goreme can take up to ten hours. Cappadocia is a long old way away in the centre of the country.

If a bus journey isn’t for you (I get it!), there are regular domestic flights to Kayseri airport (ASR). Flights are pretty inexpensive – you can get tickets from about £20 from Istanbul to Kayseri one way – and it’ll be much quicker, about ninety minutes.

Buses we got in and out of Goreme/Nevsehir:

Denizli (near Pamukkale) to Goreme night bus: cost 320 TL and took ten hours, leaving Denizli at 21:30. Bus company is Kamil Koc, known as Flix Bus in other countries.

Goreme to Nevsehir city centre: cost 13 TL and took 20 minutes, buses leave Goreme every 30 minutes. The schedule is on a board at the bus stop, so take a quick look before making your plans. When you get on this bus, let the driver know your final destination and he will show you where to get the connecting bus from. The drivers are really helpful.

Nevsehir city centre to Nevsehir bus station: cost 6 TL and took around 15 minutes. Jump on a local bus #1 or #2 and ask for the otogar (bus station).

Nevsehir city centre to Derinkuyu: cost 30 TL and took 25 minutes, leaving Nevsehir city centre every 30 minutes.

Nevsehir bus station to Gaziantep: cost 300 TL and took around seven hours, leaving Nevsehir at 09:00. Bus company is Nevsehir Seyahat.

Things to Do in Cappadocia

Head Underground to Explore the Lost City of Derinkuyu

Derinkuyu is the largest excavated underground city in Turkey located a thirty/forty minute bus ride out of Goreme. Used as housing and protection for persecuted Christians during wars, Mongolian invasions and Ottoman rule, Derinkuyu held up to 20,000 people. There are secret passageways, wine and oil presses, churches, wells, ventilation shafts. They had everything covered to sustain life underground and protect themselves in case of enemy discovery. Find out all the details for your visit here.

Red Valley and Rose Valley Day Hike

Discover Red Valley’s Adventurous Hiking Routes

So-called for the valley rock with a red/terracotta hue, the hiking routes through Red Valley were some of the most varied and intriguing. Find narrow paths, dodgy-looking staircases, and cave tunnels. Red Valley will keep you guessing at every turn.

Venture into Abandoned Cave Churches in Rose Valley

Another valley named after the rock colour. The pink rock also has some sections of yellow, which was fascinating. Rose Valley is full of breath-taking viewpoints and the most stunning abandoned cave churches full of brightly coloured artwork and mind-blowing structural elements.

Explore Red Valley and Rose Valley together for the ultimate day hike of fascinating hiking trails, stunning viewpoints and abandoned cave church exploration. Read the detailed blog post with Maps.me pins here!

Love Valley, White Valley, Pigeon Valley Day Hike

Be Amazed by the Bizarre Fairy Chimneys of Love Valley

This is the one that you have no doubt seen photos of. Huge phallic-shaped structures (named fairy chimneys), up to 40 metres tall, can be seen throughout the valley. Wander amongst them and/or watch sunset looking over Love Valley.

Hike White Valley

The hiking path through White Valley is not on the floor, but up on the white rock that spans this valley from its base to the valley edges. There are less unusual rock formations, but it’s a fascinating hike nonetheless.

Wander Guvecinlik Valley AKA Pigeon Valley

This valley gained its name for the large amount of dovecotes found carved into the rock face, a hike through Pigeon Valley is a highlight on any Cappadocia itinerary. Follow the route down into the valley to the most spectacular viewpoint before heading up and over the valley to see it from a different perspective. Make sure you stop for a cup of tea at the most unique tea garden set into the rock face.

Hike Love Valley, White Valley, explore Uchisar Castle and hike back to Goreme through Pigeon Valley all in one day. Read the full details of the hike with Maps.me pins here.

Uncover Cappadocia’s Best Viewpoint from Uchisar Castle

Uchisar Castle is right at the top of the town. At the highest point in Cappadocia, this castle can be seen from almost everywhere. Unfortunately, there is little information inside the castle as to its history, but it is still a fascinating structure to explore. Rooms were carved into the soft volcanic tuff and the outside has started to erode away revealing the honeycomb-like structure inside. Venture all the way to the top for truly spectacular views across the valleys. Entrance is 50 TL and is not included on the Museum Pass.

Wander Swords Valley

Close to Goreme Open Air Museum, Swords Valley is a less visited valley compared to the likes of the big players – love, red, etc. Named Swords Valley because the fairy chimneys here look like sharp swords, you could spend a couple of hours exploring, wandering into abandoned dwellings and churches, many of which have stunning views over the valley.

Goreme Han Restaurant

We didn’t really rate many of the restaurants in Goreme. They seem to be overpriced and cater to holiday-goers throwing money around. However, the food at Goreme Han is something special. Our friends we met while hiking Kotor in Montenegro recommended the place. Also a vegetarian couple manoeuvring meat-heavy Turkey and the Balkans, we trusted their advice. Ooh, they were right. Try the vegetable pottery and the beans. Served in clay pottery, the food sizzles theatrically at the table. Use hunks of bread to mop up the juices and wash it all down with the endless complimentary tea. Lovely.

Things You Shouldn’t Do

Go on an ATV Tour

Cappadocia is a semi-arid landscape, meaning that a lot of the land is very dry, dusty and sandy. There is nothing worse than walking down the road when a tour of ATVers is coming at you. You won’t be able to breathe for a good while til all the dust and crap that’s been kicked up into the air settles. Also, the ATVs erode the soft volcanic rock meaning that they are causing destruction to the natural landscape. Give it a miss. Don your hiking boots and head out on foot instead.

Pay for the Main Goreme Viewpoint

Sunset Viewpoint (Maps.me links can only be used in the Maps.me app on a mobile device)

What a scam. A guy has set up an official-looking toll booth, and charges every tourist that walks past in the morning before sunset. There are restaurants, cafes and accommodation further up the road, and the path beyond this is not maintained so it’s not even like your fee is going into maintaining the viewpoint. Instead, head up to the viewpoint using this entrance point: There is even free parking!

Visit Goreme Open-Air Museum

We were so disappointed by this museum. There is an entrance fee of 150 TL plus an additional 50 TL for the Black Church which has intricate painting. The museum complex is pretty small, we went around everything within 30 minutes. There were tour group crowds, you had to queue to get into the cave churches, and it really wasn’t half as spectacular as the abandoned churches we found in Rose Valley that had free entry. Skip the official museum and go exploring the valleys for yourself.

When we sat down to try to plan an itinerary, I had no idea where to even start: the city is overwhelmingly huge! Maybe you’re trying to get your plan together, and feel the same way? It’s a tough one. There are tons of blogs out there about things to do in Istanbul, but what about the less-touristy things?

While this list does include some of the major destinations where queues of tourists are sardined into small spaces, they aren’t our top picks. We wanted to see Hagia Sophia and experience the Grand Bazaar, but we much preferred stepping away and delving deeper into the city. Find our unique things to do in Istanbul below.

We originally planned to spend five nights in Istanbul (but ended up spending twelve). Five nights would give you a great flavour of several different neighbourhoods around the city, but if you stayed for longer, you would have absolutely no problem finding new experiences.

Wander the streets lined with brightly coloured buildings in Balat; marvel at the grand mosques of Sultanahmet, sip thick Turkish coffee in a cafe in Karakoy, be spoilt for choice at Besiktas Breakfast Street, admire the intricate architecture in Arnavutkoy, people watch as you wander Istiklal Avenue, jump on the ferry, drink tea (cay) from anywhere with miniature seating.

Get yourself an Istanbulkart and you can get almost anywhere in Istanbul.

A Brief History of Istanbul

Excavations of a settlement in the area of Istanbul dates back over 8000 years. The city has been under Greek, Byzantine, Roman and Ottoman rule before the War of Turkish Independence was won in 1923. It was a well-sought-after area due to its strategic location at the connection between Europe and Asia, and at the only entrance way to the Black Sea. Throughout history, the city changed names from Byzantium to Constantinople and finally to Istanbul.

How to Get to Istanbul

Direct flights connect Istanbul’s main airport (Ataturk International Airport IST) to many locations throughout Africa, Asia, Europe, North America and some in South America. There is also a second airport (Sabiha Gokcen International Airport SAW) which connects to Europe and the Middle East.

Istanbul’s major bus station, Esenler, and major train station, Sirkeci, will enable you to get to most locations throughout Turkey and many neighbouring countries also.

Buses that we got in and out of Istanbul:

Plovdiv to Istanbul night bus: cost 30 BGN and took five and a half hours, leaving Plovdiv at 00:30. Bus company is Huntur. Find out how to take this night bus here.

Istanbul to Alacati night bus: cost 390 TL and took nine hours, leaving Istanbul Esenler bus station at 23:00. Bus company is Varan.

Where to Base Yourself in Istanbul

It depends on what you’re looking for on your visit to Istanbul.

• You’re here for a weekend and want to be in a good location for all the classic sights – find your accommodation in Sultanahmet.
• You’re looking to be a little further out of the city, slightly less expensive and quieter, stay in Balat. This is where we based ourselves and we loved it!
• You want to be in the thick of it all; restaurants, bars, shops, cafes, head to Karakoy.
• You’re looking for a more authentic experience living near the locals, head to Kadikoy or Uskudar.
• You’re looking for somewhere really quiet, away from the hustle and bustle, stay in Arnavutkoy. (We genuinely discussed coming back to Istanbul to hire an apartment in Arnavutkoy for a few months because we absolutely fell in love with the place.)

Things to do in Istanbul

Explore Balat and its Colourful Houses

Balat is beautiful! Winding cobbled streets are lined with brightly-coloured houses while others are a little run-down and wonky. Old layers of paint flake from the walls to expose brickwork, laundry is strung up between neighbours’ windows, the call to prayer wanders through the streets, and the smell of sticky baklava from the bakeries lingers.

Indulge Yourself on a Leisurely Turkish Breakfast

The Turkish breakfast spreads (or Serpme Kahvaltı) are phenomenal. Make sure you don’t have any plans for at least two hours, as breakfast is a lengthy affair. Served as multiple small dishes, you are sure to be well and truly stuffed and satisfied by the end. Read our blog post on Turkish breakfast and where to find the best ones here.

Catch the Ferry

We loved the ferry and used it more than any other public transport in Istanbul. There is something therapeutic about the sea air blasting through your hair. The ferry is very much standard transportation for Istanbul residents as it connects a lot of the city, but for us, it was a real treat each time we got on.

You need an Istanbulkart to get on to the ferry. Tap your card to get on to the ferry, buy yourself a cay (tea) and sip it slowly overlooking the water. You could always tap to get on the ferry, and stay on it until it loops back to where you got on – top tip if you just want to go for a ferry ride.

Feel the Tranquillity of Fatih Mosque

While everyone flocks to Haghia Sofia and the Blue Mosque, there are stunning mosques that are left ignored by tourists. Fatih mosque is one of them. It has a peaceful and serene area surrounding the mosque with benches, so you could always just sit down and take it all in.

Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth with Sticky Treats at Altin Kaynak Pastanesi

This place felt so authentic and is away from any tourist areas. It serves all the sticky, nutty sweet treats your heart could desire. Grab a slab of kadaif and a cay.

Discover the Hardware Street

Stumbled upon this trying to find our way to Galata Tower, so you could add this stop en route too. It’s not anything outstanding, don’t get me wrong, but the shops were so far away from anything you would get in Western Europe, it was fascinating.

Witness the Galata Bridge Fishermen at Work

Galata Bridge is always lined with fishermen, rods hanging over the railings, waiting patiently for today’s catch to bite. It makes for some really interesting photos as it seems like regular daily life for the locals.

Have a Cup of Authentic Pakistani Masala Chai

We were walking through Balat and I saw a sign that was advertising masala chai. We have been to India and absolutely loved it there, and so we had to try it. In the evenings, we would head down for a cup of steaming masala chai to warm us up. Lovely.

Marvel at the Ornately Decorated Houses of Arnavutkoy

Arnavutkoy houses have a distinctive flavour. Many are pastel coloured or plain wood and have central balconies with an almost lacy design. Wander the steep streets and find the perfect spot where you can see a grand mosque on the other side of the water perfectly lined up with the streets.

There a few restaurants and shops and a lovely, long water front area with benches. Grab an ice cream and just sit by the water for a while. It’s a quiet area that’s a little further out of the main city, but it’s definitely worth travelling there. We paired it with a visit to Besiktas. There is a ferry going directly from Besiktas to Arnavutkoy.

Explore the Wednesday Market on Darussafaka Caddesi and Try Gozleme

The Wednesday market is huge and a large portion of it sits on Darussafaka Caddesi leading up to Faith Mosque. They sell everything from fruit to jeans to hoover nozzles to pistachios. It really is a fascinating market to explore and it’s a market set up for locals.

Once you reach the mosque, carry on through the other side as the market continues. Here is an area where they serve cay, and women cook fresh gozleme (Turkish thin pancakes).

Step Inside Nuruosmaniye Mosque

Another less-frequented, but still beautifully decorated mosque is Nuruosmaniye. It is made out of white/grey stone and marble and has gold calligraphy and stained glass windows.

Devour a Loaded Jacket Potato (Kumpir)

This seemed like a weird one to me as it’s not something that I ever associated with Istanbul or even Turkey, but Kumpir places are everywhere around the city.

You pay a flat fee for a loaded potato. Take a sheet and tick all the boxes for the toppings that you want. Give this to the waiting staff and they will bring you over a massive potato stuffed to the brim with all your favourites. The only thing to note is that generally the toppings are cold.

Walk Along the Waterfront at Uskudar

Jump off the ferry at Uskudar and walk to the right along the water. Uskudar is very much a local residential area on the Asian side of Istanbul. There is a square with mosques and shops and walking along the water here is a gentle and relaxing activity.

Try Georgian Cuisine at Galaktion Restaurant

Eastern Turkey borders Georgia so it makes sense that there would be a Georgian restaurant here. Not traditional and local, I know, but the food is beautiful.

Georgian food has a huge variety of vegetarian options so you will be spoilt for choice. The restaurant is on the top level of a high rise buildings so you have stunning views across the city. Order a glass of Georgian wine and watch the sun set.

Indulge in a Slab of Kunefe on Islambol Caddesi and Fatih Caddesi

These streets have loads of food stands. We had a seriously tasty falafel wrap from a seller on this street, but it was the kunefe that really stole the show. Kunefe is a bizarre combination of salty, stringy, chewy, melted cheese topped with fried and crispy angel hair pasta and drenched in syrup.

I had tried this Middle Eastern classic once before in Amman, Jordan but I wasn’t convinced and really wasn’t ready for the mixture of flavours. This second time round though, I knew what was in store. Now I’m a big fan! Give it a go.

Stop for Turkish Tea at all the Spots with Miniature Furniture

Turkish tea is called cay (pronounced chai). The best cay spots are always the ones with tiny stools in their seating areas. Pull up a tiny pew and order a cay.

Find St. Antony’s Church Hidden off Istiklal Avenue

Walking down Istiklal Avenue, the most touristy/busiest street in Istanbul, is not where we were expecting to find a church. But just off of the main street, you will find St. Antony’s Church. The church façade is really elegant – it’s prettier from the outside than the inside.

Wander the Streets Around Galata Tower

We didn’t go up Galata Tower because for us it seemed an expensive ticket (100 TL) for a viewpoint that I’m sure we would have to use our elbows for to get a good view. But that’s not to say that you shouldn’t go: it just wasn’t in our budget.

There are always queues around the base of the tower, but step a little bit away from the tower and you will be rewarded with some really quirky, hipster bars, cafes and shops. Also, the best picture of Galata Tower are the ones where it is just peering out at the end of the street!

Sip Proper Turkish Coffee

Turkish coffee is an absolute favourite of mine. There are so many varieties – find out about them in my post all about Turkish coffee here. My favourites are Ottoman and mastic flavoured.

See the Beautiful Houses of Kuzguncuk

These houses are unfortunately always surrounded by people posing in the doorways to get that perfect photo. Try to look past that and see the beautiful houses. Kuzguncuk is an area not far from Uskudar ferry port.

Walk up the main road, Icadiye Caddesi, see the houses, stop for lunch or maybe buy a lavender souvenir which seems to be sold everywhere on this street.

Explore Sultanahmet Square, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque

Sultanahmet Square is where you will find historic obelisks, monuments and columns. Just past these are the two mosques: Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. While we were here in October 22, the Blue Mosque was under construction so didn’t seem worth entering. The queue for Hagia Sophia was huge and so we didn’t wait around for this either.

There is a park area with a fountain and benches in between the two mosques. Buy a corn on the cob or a Nutella simit and sit on a bench overlooking these two spectacular buildings. If you time it right, you might hear the call to prayer. The mosques synchronise so that they don’t sound over each other.

Get Lost in the Grand Bazaar

Another classic. Watch your pockets and get your elbows out. The bazaar is always manic, but it’s an interesting wander nonetheless. The product displays are wonderful, in particular the carpet sellers and lamp sellers, but they can get a bit awkward about taking photos, so ask first.

I did start to feel a bit agitated after a while of being in the enclosed space with so many people, but I still feel like this is a rite of passage for visiting Istanbul.

Follow the Retro Tram from Taksim Square down Istiklal Avenue

The retro tram was really cute, and Taksim Square is always lively and bustling. There were too many people trying to get on the tram so we opted just to walk down Istiklal Avenue and take pictures of it.

Pamukkale, literally meaning cotton castle in Turkish, is UNESCO World Heritage listed and one of Turkey’s most visited tourist attractions. The area is famous for its calcium carbonate rich waters from its thermal springs and the ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis.

These waters have created an otherworldly landscape of travertine pools down a hillside that look velvety in texture. Grab yourself a tea, paddle your feet in the warm water and admire the phenomenal views. Find everything you might need to know to prepare for your trip in this complete Pamukkale guide.

The pools from the mineral waters are also famous in the social media world. You’ll find pictures everywhere of people posing for photos around the pools or bathing in them, and that made me sceptical as to whether this was a place for us.

Maybe it’ll be really busy. Maybe it’ll be really commercialised. Maybe it’s overhyped. Maybe the photos I’ve seen have been overly edited.

I had more or less talked myself out of planning it into our Turkey itinerary, but Chris wanted for us to give it a go. And this was the absolute right decision. We spent a really lovely day exploring the pools and Hierapolis ruins.

So, is it worth visiting Pamukkale? Yes.

And if you have any of these similar thoughts or just want a better insight into what a visit to Pamukkale is like, I have put together this guide. It brings together answers to all of the questions that my overthinking mind posed, as well as advice and tips I wish we had known before visiting.

Brief History of the Thermal Waters and Hierapolis

In 2nd century BC, the Greek settlement of Hierapolis became recognised as a thermal spa before being quickly turned to the hands of the Roman Empire. The ancient city was constructed next to the thermal mineral springs of what is now known as Pamukkale, as it was believed that the waters cured illness.

Hierapolis therefore became popular with the wealthy, who were sick or elderly, coming to visit or stay in this spa resort town. After a series of catastrophic earthquakes, Hierapolis was left largely abandoned by the 14th century, and was rediscovered in the 20th century.

Why does it look like this?

The thermal spring water is rich in calcium carbonate. When the water comes out from the spring, it travels down the hillside and deposits the mineral on to the ground. Over millennia, we have the resulting build up that you see today of white sedimentary rock called travertine.

Is it worth the hype?

Yes

• The landscape is phenomenal and so unique.
• The texture of the travertine on my feet was not at all what I was expecting. You know when you experience something that takes a while for your brain to fully register and comprehend because it’s not at all what you thought it would be like? That.
• The views from the top of the pools are breath-taking.
• The ruins of Hierapolis ancient city are really well preserved and such an interesting contrast with the pools.
• Time it right, and exploring the pools and the city without the crowds is achievable and well worth the effort.

But also, no.

• What you see on social media is not real (shocker!). The water is not that blue, you may not even see much water in the pools at all.
• The natural pools are cordoned off because of the huge amount of tourists that visit; damage and erosion has begun, so you can’t actually bathe in the natural pools.
• Some manmade pools have been dug to allow the selfie-hungry to still get that perfect Instagram shot.
• Way too many people visit. An uncomfortable amount of people.
• Because there are only a few manmade pools that you can bathe in, everyone wants to be in these pools. They are not clean. You will likely find old plasters and hair in the pools at the end of the day.

Where is Pamukkale?

Pamukkale is located in south west Turkey close to Denzili. Pamukkale is the name shared between the travertine pools as well as the town at the base of the pools where you will find, restaurants, shops and accommodation.

What time of year is best to visit?

You can visit Pamukkale all year round. Summer is the busiest time of year because of the hot weather and the general increase of tourists to Turkey overall. When visiting the pools and the ancient city, there is no cover and you are fully exposed to the sun. The heat can be unbearable, so I would avoid this time of year.

The shoulder seasons: May-June, September-October would be more pleasant times to visit. Fewer tourists and milder temperatures.

How do I get to Pamukkale?

You need to get yourself to Denizli. Here is the closest major train and bus stations to Pamukkale. There is also an airport in Denizli (DNZ) that is serviced only by Istanbul.

Denizli is a very well-connected city and you can get there by bus from most major cities around the country.

From Izmir, jump on the train to get you there in about five hours. There are at least five trains that take this route each day. We got the 07:10  and it cost 146 TL. Otherwise, there are buses from all over the country that service Denizli.

If you arrive into Denizli train station, leave the station and cross the main road to find the bus station.

Enter the bus station (you may have to scan your luggage), and then head down the escalators one floor. Turn right and head out to the minibus park to peron (bay) 67 to catch the shuttle to Pamukkale. They supposedly leave every 20 minutes, so you shouldn’t be waiting long. Jump in the bus and pay the fee in cash when you get off the bus. The journey takes 20 minutes and cost us 14 TL cash. You can get off the bus at a bus stop in the centre of town or at a stop near the Pamukkale pools entrance.

Be aware – a couple on the bus paid for their tickets when they got on the bus, and then were asked to pay again when they left. They had no proof that they had already paid at the bus station and so ended up having to pay twice. If you’re asked to pay up front, ask if you can pay at the end, or make sure that the driver knows that you have already paid.

To get back to Denizli, wait at that same bus stop where you were dropped off, and it’ll be the same procedure reversed.

Ticket Prices and Inclusions

The ticket costs 200 TL as of November 22. This includes entrance to the pools and the whole of Hierapolis ancient city (but excludes Cleopatra Pools). It is a single entry ticket to be used on the date of issue. Therefore you cannot buy it in advance, or leave and re-enter.

There are audio guides available for an additional fee, but I have only heard bad reviews about them.

Can I visit as a day trip?

Yes, you can. There are organised tours that will take you there and back in a day from Istanbul, Izmir etc., but it will be rushed and you won’t be able to see everything. If you are short on time anyway, this makes sense, but if you have a couple of days, stay in Pamukkale town for a night or two.

How long should I spend in Pamukkale?

Between exploring the travertine pools, stopping for lunch, and exploring the ancient ruins of Hierapolis, you could easily spend the whole day (which is what we did).

You could maybe spend an hour walking slowly through the pools, taking in the views and taking all your photos. The ruins, however, are particularly spread out. Just walking from one end of the site to the other could take a good hour. So really, it depends on your interest in ancient ruins. A visit to Pamukkale could be a couple of hours or a whole day.

What should I wear?

I would recommend not wearing long trousers, skirts etc. because you’ll spend the whole time hitching them up so they don’t get wet.

Wear swimmers if you want to bathe. Wear shoes that are comfortable for walking around the ancient ruins, but also be prepared to remove your shoes for walking on the travertine. You are only allowed to walk in and around the pools barefoot.

Accommodation recommendations?

I would thoroughly recommend Sunrise Aya Hotel. Close to where the shuttle bus will drop you, the entrance gate and restaurants, it has the perfect location. The rooms are small with all the basics you would need. There is a pool filled with the natural water from the thermal springs and a large garden area with a small wooden hut bar. It’s a family-run business and they are such lovely people.

Is it dangerous and slippery?

Some parts are slippery, so definitely watch your step. But I would say that the majority of the travertine feels like you are walking on a moderately spiky pomace stone so offers a considerable amount of grip. You have to walk barefoot across the pools. But no, I would not say it is dangerous. Just like with anything, be careful.

Is it commercialised?

Yes. The restaurant on site sells a cup of tea for 18 TL (when everywhere else in Turkey was selling it for 5 TL). When we were there, men were wandering up and down the pool trying to sell huge pairs of colourful feathered wings for people to wear to take their ‘perfect’ photo.

However, you can avoid this like we did, and I promise it is worth visiting regardless of all this! I was super sceptical about it all before we went, but I really enjoyed our day exploring the pools and the ancient ruins. Arrive early before all of this madness starts and bring a packed lunch.

When is the best time to go to avoid the crowds?

Get there first thing for when the gates open. Most people visiting Pamukkale do it on an organised day trip, so they won’t be there for a couple of hours. Once it hits 10:00 the day trippers will be in full swing and it all gets a bit much. But head over to a different area of the travertines and the ancient ruins and you can avoid the crowds.

Recommendations on how to visit Pamukkale away from the crowds

Get to the Town Entrance as soon as it opens and walk up the travertine. Most people visit on a day trip, so you’ll likely have a couple of hours before the day trippers descend.

Take your photos, maybe treat yourself to an expensive tea at the top by the thermal springs and dangle your feet in the warm water while looking out over the view. As this area starts to get into full swing with crowds, leave and follow the path across the top of the travertine to the right of the restaurant. People don’t seem to venture this way, so it’ll be lovely and quiet and you’ll still have the stunning views of the snow white travertine contrasting with the rest of the lush and green landscape.

From here, head upwards to the ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis. Again, not many visitors actually explore the ruins so it’ll be relatively quiet. Unfortunately, there are no maps and there is very little information, just a few signs to point you to the main sights.

We explored the ancient ruins, had a picnic lunch and headed back to the quiet area overlooking the pools to wait for sunset. Because we were here in November, the sunset was quite early around 18:00.

Top sights of Hierapolis ancient city

Start at the Grand Theatre. It is huge, hence the name, and is high up in the mountainside, meaning that it offers sweeping views over the rest of the landscape. Wander down the steps to see the intricate detailing of the columns and statues of the stage.

Explore St. Philip’s Martyrium and the Old Theatre, before walking the full length of the necropolis. The ruins of the necropolis were outstanding. There were a few plaques with information on different building techniques of structures. Spot the detailed decoration chiselled into the stone.

Then venture back into the centre via the colonnaded street and explore the ruins either side of this street. Wander through the triple arched entrance, walk the Greco-Roman road and see the enormous columns. Veer off periodically to see smaller ruins.

All in all, we probably spent about three hours exploring the ruins. There is a lot to see and the sights are pretty spread out.

Entrances and Opening Times

So, there doesn’t seem to be any solid information online about the opening times of the gates. Some state 24 hours, which is incorrect. The best way to do it, is to check with a local before you go.

The other layer of complexity is that there are three entrances: Town Entrance, South Gate and North Gate, and each one has its own opening times that change with the seasons. Madness.

We visited via the town entrance, and if you’re staying in Pamukkale town, I’d recommend you do the same. We were there in November and it opened at 08:00. Our accommodation host informed us of the below opening times:

Town entrance: 08:00 Oct-Mar, 06:30 Apr-Sep

South Gate: 07:30 Oct-Mar

The Town Entrance allows you to enter from the base of the travertine pools and walk your way up to the top. You have to remove your shoes walking through the pools. This is the entrance I would recommend you use if you are staying in Pamukkale and do not have your own transportation.

The South Gate brings you to the top of the pools. This is where a lot of the tour buses arrive. I would recommend this entrance if you have transportation as there is plenty of space for parking.

The North Gate brings you in at the end of the necropolis of Hierapolis. This will take you a good 30/40 minutes to walk to the pools. I just wouldn’t recommend this one as it’s too far out the way.

Are there facilities on site?

Yes. There are toilets at both ends of the site – in the necropolis and at the quieter end of the travertines: at the end of the boardwalk to the right of the restaurant at the top of the pools.

There are two restaurants on site but they are really expensive. A tea here cost us 18 TL when it costs 5 TL everywhere else in Turkey. We made ourselves a wee picnic of shop-bought cig kofte, simit from a local bakery, bananas and water. I would thoroughly recommend bringing lunch with you if you are planning to stay for the whole day.

What should I bring for a day at Pamukkale and Hierapolis?

• Plenty of sun protection. The pools and the ancient city are completely exposed.
• Lunch and water. The restaurants are really overpriced.
• Your swimmers. If you fancy bathing?

Spending a day exploring the otherworldly travertine pool landscape and the ruins of Hierapolis is well worthwhile. Just prepare yourself for the crowds and the commercialised elements beforehand and veer away from this part when the huge day tripper crowds descend.

Thick, dark, strong and aromatic. Slowly sipping Turkish coffee from a small and intricately-decorated porcelain cup is an experience all by itself. It has even been given UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status. Walking around Turkish cities, you will smell the pungent aromas as coffee houses roast and finely grind the beans before cooking them up in to the deliciousness that is Turkish coffee.

When we arrived into Turkey and started searching for the real deal Turkish coffee, we found that there were tons of different varieties and flavours that we had never even heard of before. We honestly had no idea what we were ordering half the time! So, we tried them all out (for research purposes, obviously) and put together this Turkish coffee guide to reveal our findings and recommendations.

Fancy some Turkish breakfast before your Turkish coffee? Find everything you need to know in this guide.

A Short History of Turkish Coffee

Turkish coffee is understood to have been brought to Turkey from Yemen during the 16th century while the country was under Ottoman rule (so is technically Yemeni coffee). It was a hit with the Ottoman sultans and coffee houses quickly sprung up and became an integral part of daily life with regular Turks too.

An Ottoman ruler who came into power later on, was concerned that people congregating in coffee houses may be conspiring against him, and so coffee houses were banned. Drinking coffee had become so embedded into daily life that Turks continued to meet and drink in the coffee houses even though there were at risk of severe punishment. The ban obviously didn’t last.

Coffee Preparation

Before making the coffee, you will be asked if you want sugar. Sugar cannot be added to the coffee after heating, as to incorporate it into the coffee requires stirring and heating. Stirring is a big no no when it comes to Turkish coffee.

Coffee beans are very finely ground and placed into a cezve, which is a copper coffee pot with a long handle. They are combined with water and, optionally, sugar, before being placed over heat. Once over a flame, the mixture is brought to a near boil to create a foam. Before the coffee overheats and overflows, the cezve is removed from the heat. The foam is spooned into small porcelain cups (fincan), before the cezve is added back to the heat to create more foam. This is repeated, maybe, twice before the full contents of the cezve is decanted into the porcelain cups.

There are many coffee stalls where they cook their coffee over sand. A huge plate of sand is placed over heat. This is a traditional practice that gives full control over the heat to which the coffee is exposed. Placing the cezve on top of the sand keeps it warm, while burying the cezve into the sand heats it quicker.

Serving the Coffee

Turkish coffee is traditionally served in fincan, which are small, porcelain cups. A small glass of water and a sweet treat are usually placed alongside the coffee. The water is used to neutralise the palate before drinking the coffee, and the sweet treat to balance out the bitterness from the coffee. Lokum (Turkish delight) or chocolate were what we most often received with our coffees in Turkey. Sometimes we’d get a little glass of rose syrup!

Drinking the Coffee

Let the coffee sit for a few minutes to let the coffee grounds settle at the bottom of the cup. (Don’t stir the coffee because that will distribute the grounds throughout the coffee again!) Take a sip of your water to clear your palate, and then slowly sip your coffee. Turkish coffee is best savoured and drunk at a leisurely pace, don’t it shot it back like an espresso.

Different Types of Turkish Coffee

Ottoman

Ottoman coffee is lighter in colour than Turkish coffee as it is mixed with flavours such as cardamom, chocolate etc. It is a beautifully light and aromatic alternative to Turkish coffee.

This is a great option if you’re looking for a gentler, less punchy coffee.

Dibek

Dibek coffee differs from Turkish coffee due to the grinding process of the coffee in a stone pestle and mortar. This is recognised as bringing a more powerful flavour to the coffee.

Honestly, if I had a regular Turkish coffee and a dibek coffee, I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference.

Damla Sakizli

This is a Turkish coffee flavoured with mastic resin. The resin from the mastic tree is often used to flavour lokum (Turkish delight) also. It gives a light, pine flavour to the coffee.

The mastic works really nicely with the coffee, and was a flavour that we hadn’t experienced before. 10/10 would recommend.

Menengic

This isn’t technically coffee because coffee beans are not used. Instead, wild pistachios/pistachio berries are used to create a drink that looks like Turkish coffee but has no caffeine content. It is richer, creamier and not bitter; and is also known as pistachio coffee or Kurdish coffee.

Fragrant and creamy, we ordered this on several occasions because it really is delicious. Not ideal if you’re looking for the pick-me-up coffee effects though.

Mirra

The strongest of them all. Mirra coffee is typically drunk in Sanliurfa in the south east of Turkey.

The name derives from the Arabic for bitter, mur. Coarser grounds are used than in Turkish coffee, and so to extract the flavour, the coffee is fully brought to the boil a couple of times. The result is thick, syrupy, very strong and bitter. A tiny amount is served in tiny cups. That really is all that you need!

This is blow-your-face-off strong coffee. Perfect to get you going for the day, but wow, it is shockingly strong. We only ordered it once.