How to Get Around Armenia: Your Complete Transport Guide

How to Get Around Armenia: Your Complete Transport Guide

How to Get Around Armenia: Your Complete Transport Guide

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Armenia is so much more than just Yerevan. Don’t get me wrong, Yerevan is an essential part of any Armenian trip and a city that we really love! But, to really experience the country, you need to get away from the capital. Go down south, explore the mountains, hike the canyons, find all the UNESCO monasteries, take the scenic routes. And how is the best way to do this? 

Armenia has the Soviet classic marshrutka, but it also has a limited train network, Yerevan metro, its own local taxi app, and a shared taxi system. After spending six weeks travelling the country using these five methods, we’ve put together all the info and our learnings on how to get around Armenia in this transport guide.

Our Lada taxi driver became our best mate

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

How Easy is it to Travel Around Armenia?

The public transport is somewhat limited compared to other countries, but we travelled around Armenia from north to south for six weeks, and had no problems whatsoever. In fact, we actually had some really lovely encounters with locals on the marshrutkas. Road conditions that we experienced were good, there wasn’t much traffic on the roads outside of Yerevan, and in general, people drive relatively sensibly. Though, I can’t say the same for marshrutkas in neighbouring Georgia!

kars to batumi

Marshrutkas

What is a Marshrutka?

The marshrutka is common throughout the ex-Soviet republics. It is essentially a minivan that runs from A to B, and you can get on or off at any point along this route. There are no specific bus stops other than the start and finish. E.g. If your accommodation is on the road that the marshrutka takes, you can ask the driver to stop right outside for you.

A marshrutka journey is generally not comfortable; you have little leg room, and people will be squeezed on regardless of whether there is space or not. And they drive pretty quickly.

But this is how to get around Armenia; it’s the authentic local way. You’ll meet people, and you’ll see phenomenal landscapes on your journey.

marshrutka, how to get around armenia

Marshrutka Tickets

For most journeys, you will pay on the marshrutka directly to the driver. They might come round before it leaves and take money, or you might just pay when you get off, but you will not get a paper ticket/receipt of your payment. For some longer journeys, you may have a ticket desk at the bus station where you pay in cash, and get given a paper ticket. 

For reference, the longest journey we took in a marshrutka lasted 6 hours, and it cost us 2500 AMD, which is about £5.

marshrutka ticket office, vanadzor, armenia

Marshrutka Timetables

The one and only holy grail resource for this information is this website. It will show you bus numbers, times, pick up and drop off locations, and estimated ticket prices. (And it will also give you an idea if there is a train route too). Use this only as a guide because marshrutkas are notorious for not being on time. You cannot book tickets online through this website.

abandoned bus station, armenia

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Luggage Storage

Ok, now this one is difficult. There is almost no luggage storage on a marshrutka. Armenian marshrutka journeys were the most difficult out of everywhere we have been in terms of luggage. We had a journey where there physically was no space, so I had to put my 70 litre backpack where my feet should gone, and sit with my knees around my ears. There was another journey where we both sat for two hours with our backpacks on our laps! My advice would be to get to the bus station early and get your bags packed up before anyone else gets on. You won’t have to pay for your luggage, unless it takes up a seat on the marshrutka.

Trains

The train network in Armenia is very small and only really connects Yerevan and some of the northern towns/cities, and Tbilisi in Georgia.

Trains tickets tend to be more expensive than on a marshrutka. You have to buy tickets at the station before getting on the train.

There is plenty of luggage space on the train, and the train overall is a more comfortable experience than the marshrutka.

The Yerevan to Gyumri express train that runs on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, is perfect if you want to see Gyumri as a day trip. Tickets cost 2500 AMD for the two and a half hour journey.

And the overnight Tbilisi to Yerevan train is also another train journey that I would recommend; it’s an experience in itself travelling through the Caucasus in an old Soviet train. Read about it here.

Again, I would use this website for train departure info around Armenia.

tbilisi to yerevan overnight train, how to get around armenia

Yerevan Metro

Yerevan metro is a convenient, inexpensive, and quick way to move around the city. It runs from 07:00 to 23:00 (which means it is the perfect way to get into the city after you arrive on the overnight train from Tbilisi). You won’t have to wait any more than 15 minutes for a train. The trains are clean and the journey is smooth – not like the juddery, rickety, deafening London underground back home!

You have to pay 200 AMD in cash at the ticket desk, and you will be given a small plastic token to put into the turnstiles to get on to the platform.

yerevan metro

GG Taxi

GG Taxi is a local Armenian taxi app like Uber or Bolt. It’s a great app, it’s user friendly, and I love the fact that it’s local! We were only able to set it up once we were in the country and had an Armenian SIM card. You can attach your card details to it, but equally, you can just pay cash.

The other thing to note is that most Armenians will have this app, so if you get caught short without internet, or you’ve just arrived into the country and need to get from the airport/train station to your accommodation; ask a local. They can call you a GG and then you just pay the driver in cash.

This is how to get around Armenia for shorter distances or for routes that just don’t have public transport.

classic lada taxi in armenia

Shared Taxis

Shared taxis are larger cars that maybe hold five passengers. They tend to drive shorter distances, and leave when they have a full car. We found some shared taxi spots marked on Maps.me, otherwise it’s a case of asking locals where to pick up a shared taxi.

Have you been to Armenia and use the local transport? Or maybe you’re planning your Armenia trip at the moment?

We’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations, and questions.

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How to Get to Tatev Monastery, Armenia

How to Get to Tatev Monastery, Armenia

How to Get to Tatev Monastery, Armenia

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If you take a look at the top things to do in Armenia, Tatev Monastery is undoubtedly near the top of every list. An ancient monastery perched on a plateau overlooking a huge gorge; it’s picture perfect. But when you take a look at where it actually is on the map in relation to Yerevan, it’s not a quick trip. So is Tatev worth visiting even though it’s a long journey? Yes, it really is 100% worth it! If you have the time, take a couple of days to head down south to the least visited part of the country, but arguably one of the most spectacular regions.

This guide will help you with how to get to Tatev Monastery, why you should visit, and a little history.

tatev monastery, armenia

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

History of Tatev Monastery

It is believed that the monastery was named after a disciple called Eustateus. But my favourite version of events is the folk legend that suggests that as construction workers were building the monastery, one of them fell. As he fell, he shouted to God to ‘give him wings’, or in Armenian, ‘ta tev’. And he miraculously survived.

As with many Christian buildings in Armenia, it stands where a pagan temple used to stand until the country declared itself Christian in the 4th century. Building of the monastery began in the 9th century, but has been extended and repaired since due to damage throughout invasions and earthquakes. Full reparations since the last earthquake in 1931 have still not been carried out.

khachkars at tatev monastery

Where is Tatev Monastery?

The monastery is located in the small village of Tatev, in the south Armenian region of Syunik. The closest town to Tatev is Goris, which is close to the Azerbaijani border and the area known as Nagorno-Karabakh.

Goris to Tatev is around 22 miles (35 km), but the roads make it nearly an hour’s journey.

Yerevan to Tatev is around 158 miles (255 km), or a 4 hour journey.

How to Get to Tatev Monastery

There is no public transport, so these are your options on how to get to Tatev Monastery below.

THE Best (and least expensive) Way

Make your way to Goris via marshrutka from Yerevan. Stay overnight in Goris and get a driver to take you the rest of the way to Tatev.

This is what we did, and it was the most amazing half-day trip! We booked accommodation in Goris (we’re a big fan of Popock!), and then arranged a driver through Popock hotel to take us to Tatev via several stops along the winding road through the canyon and up the other side to Tatev. The views were stunning the whole way.

We stopped at Halidzor Observatory, Goris Gate, Devil’s Bridge, viewpoints for Tatev, and of course the monastery.

We paid the driver 12000 AMD, about £24, for the round trip, waiting at the monastery, and stopping at all the above locations. The total trip was about 4 hours.

And how do you get to Goris from Yerevan via marshrutka? Make your way to the Southern bus station in Yerevan. There are two buses each day leaving at 9am and 3pm. The journey will take around 4 hours with a stop half way at Yeghegnadzor.

A ticket will cost around 3000 AMD and you’ll have to pay in cash at the bus station and get yourself a ticket. Hold on to it until the end of the journey just in case.

Take a look at our blog post on all things Armenian public transport.

how to reach tatev monastery, armenia

The Next Best Way

Stay in Goris, get a driver to the Wings of Tatev, and then take the cable car.

When we visited, the Wings of Tatev were under maintenance. BUT the Wings of Tatev is recognised by Guinness World Records as the longest reversible cable car in the world. It takes you above the Vorotan Gorge for a 12 minute journey of spectacular bird’s eye views.

However, it’s pricey. 9000 AMD for a return, or 6500 AMD for one way. You can buy tickets online here.

The cable car runs roughly between 10:00 and 18:00, though times change slightly with the seasons. And note that it does not run on Mondays.

So, get a driver to take you to the Wings of Tatev start in Halidzor. Then make sure you arrange a time to be picked up again as GG Taxi is unlikely to work out here.

wings of tatev

The Other Ways

If you’re not staying in Goris, chances are you’re coming from Yerevan as a day trip. While this is not ideal because of the 4 hour journey each way, it is just about doable. You can either hire a driver, self-drive, or sign up on an organised day trip.

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Exploring Tatev Monastery

The monastery has no entrance fee.

There are churches within the monastery complex, so make sure you see all three – St Paul and Peter’s, St Gregory the Illuminator, and Holy Mother of God. There are also buildings containing ancient relics, and some with khachkars and amazing views over the gorge.

You could spend maybe an hour here.

As with many ancient religious buildings throughout the country, the monastery is only part of the reason to visit. The other part is because of the breath-taking panoramic views from the spectacular and isolated location. The endless views stretch far over the Vorotan Gorge. Make sure yourself a packed lunch, and sit with these views for a little while.

To get views of the monastery overlooking the gorge, head to this viewpoint.

how to get to tatev monastery

how to get to tatev monastery

views of tatev monastery

Where to Stay in Goris

The rooms in Popock Goris are beautiful and spacious, but the very best part is the roof terrace that looks over the stunning city of Goris. The on-site restaurant serves really good food (the best we found in Goris). Make sure you try out the breakfast spread and the Armenian coffee!

Have you been to Tatev Monastery? Or maybe you’re planning on visiting?

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Easy Day Trip from Yerevan: Spiritual Vagharshapat (Etchmiadzin)

Easy Day Trip from Yerevan: Spiritual Vagharshapat (Etchmiadzin)

Easy Day Trip from Yerevan: Spiritual Vagharshapat (Etchmiadzin)

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Recognised as Armenia’s spiritual capital, and the centre of the Armenian Apostolic Church, Vagharshapat (or Etchmiadzin) has many UNESCO listed religious buildings and is an easy day trip or half day trip from Yerevan. This guide will give you an idea of all the top spots to visit, where to eat, how to get there, and our accommodation recommendation if you fancied extending your visit to more than just a day trip from Yerevan.

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

Religious Spots to Visit in Vagharshapat

Etchmiadzin Cathedral – UNESCO listed

Etchmiadzin Cathedral is the world’s oldest cathedral, which is mind-blowing! The original church built at this site was from 300 AD, not long after Armenia declared itself a Christian country (the first country in the world to do so). 

Of course, when we visited, it was closed. But we could still see all the intricate detailing on the outside and around the door ways. Inside, however, are several relics that are vitally important to the Apostolic Armenian Church. Amongst the relics is the spear believed to have wounded Jesus at his crucifixion, which was housed at Geghard Monastery until the 1600s, giving the monastery its name (Geghard means ‘spear’ in Armenian.) 

The cathedral is situated in the middle of what is known as the Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin, a large complex with several religious buildings, new and really really old. The Mother See is the centre and headquarters of the Apostolic Armenian Church, much like the Holy See is the centre and headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church. While you’re in this area, check out the other religious buildings and sculptures around the complex, such as Holy Archangels Church.

etchmiadzin cathedral, day trip from yerevan

etchmiadzin cathedral, vagharshapat

St. Hripsime – UNESCO listed

One of the oldest churches in Armenia, St. Hripsime Church is understood to date back to the early 7th century. It is believed that Saint Hripsime was a beautiful Christian nun who fled to Armenia to escape the advances of Roman Emperor Diocletian. The emperor sent informed the Pagan King of Armenia about her and her beauty. When she arrived in Armenia and rejected the King’s advances too, it was arranged for her to be killed.  The church is on the site of where she was killed and where her remains were later housed in a mausoleum.

st hripsime church, things to do in vagharshapat

Saint Gayane – UNESCO listed

Saint Gayane (or Kayane) fled to Armenia from Rome with Saint Hripsime. When Hripisime rejected his advances, he turned to Gayane which resulted in a similar rejection. She was killed at the site where the church now stands.

st gayane church, things to do in etchmiadzin

Shoghakat Church – UNESCO listed

Another nun fled with Gayane and Hripsime, however, her name remains unknown. Shoghakat literally means ‘ray of light’ and was built to remember others killed during the period of time of converting the country to Christianity.

shoghakat church, day trip from yerevan

Old Cemetery

Not a ‘site’ that you would see recommended when visiting Vagharshapat, but we thought it was fascinating. Within the religious complex as you walk towards St. Gayane Church, you can capture a photo of ancient gravestones in the foreground, with the top of St. Gayane Church, and Mount Ararat in the background.

vagharshapat cemetery

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Where to Eat in Vagharshapat

Agape Refectory

We ordered several dishes here and while they were nice, we have had better food elsewhere in the country. However, you don’t come here for the food; come here for the building and the history. It almost feels like you’re walking into a wine cellar. The décor is oldy woldy medieval and the high domed ceilings are fascinating.

agape refectory, vagharshapat

agape refectory, vagharshapat

Բուխարի – Food court

If you fancy a less pricey meal that is arguably better, head to the food court just out of the main part of town. There are loads of options for local food as well as things like pizzas. Again, nothing to write home about, but if you want something cheap and cheerful, this is the spot.

Ցորեն սրճարան – Cafe and pasta

This place is cute! It’s very small and there are only a few tables, but it’s bright and has lovely décor. We had a pesto spaghetti and bruschetta which were surprisingly good.

How to Get to Vagharshapat

Get to Kilikia bus station in Yerevan and jump on bus number 203. It leaves every 30 minutes and is a dead easy journey. It will take no more than 30 minutes to drive right to the centre of Vagharshapat, and it cost us 300 AMD in 2023.

To get back, just hang around at the same spot you were dropped off, and jump on the next 203.

For more info on taking public transport in Armenia, take a look at this post.

agape refectory, vagharshapat

Where to Stay in Vagharshapat

If you want to make your visit longer than just a day trip from Yerevan, B&B Artson is a beautiful and affordable homestay just a short walk away from the main centre. It has comfortable rooms with private bathrooms, a communal area with cooking facilities, and outdoor shared seating overlooking a garden. There is also a shy dog called Mia who is lovely!

Have you been to Etchmiadzin/Vagharshapat? Or maybe you’re planning on visiting?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations and questions.

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How to Visit Ani: the Ancient Armenian City

How to Visit Ani: the Ancient Armenian City

How to Visit Ani: the Ancient Armenian City

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Ani, the medieval capital of Bagratid Armenia, now lays in ruins. The gorge created by the Akhurian river snakes its way beside the city and forms a natural border bringing the once Armenian city into modern day Turkey.

The tuff stone of some of the largest buildings still stand; the pink, orange and black hues of the bricks so characteristic of Armenia. Walk the gravel paths through the site, pop into the various buildings that remain, be amazed by the medieval artwork and inscription, stand in awe looking out over the gorge towards modern day Armenia. So close, but yet so far; the Armenian people lost one of their greatest symbols of pride with the change of borders. And, sadly, it seems that not enough is being done to keep the city alive.

This guide will give you all the info on how to visit Ani, a brief history and other things to do nearby.

Biryani house, kutaisi, georgia

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

A Brief History of Ani

Ani was the capital of the Bagratid Armenian kingdom which comprised of modern day Armenia plus modern day Eastern Turkey. The city thrived due to its location along a trade route, and during its time, it was one of the world’s largest cities.

Ani was invaded on many occasions. Seljuk Turks captured the city and slaughtered its population; followed by subsequent invasions by the Kingdom of Georgia and Mongols.

A devastating earthquake hit the region in the 14th century which caused significant damage from which Ani never really recovered. This combined with a change in trade route away from Ani, and the takeover of the Ottoman Empire resulted in the city being completely abandoned by the middle of the 18th century.

Ani was then incorporated into the Russian Empire. The city was looted and damaged by Turks in 1918. Archaeologists managed to rescue some artifacts before the ransacking.

Soon after, the Soviet Union invaded Armenia, and the treaty of Kars was signed determining the borders of Turkey and the three Caucasian Soviet republics – Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan. Ani was not given back to Armenia, and has remained in Turkish territory since.

how to visit ani

How to Visit Ani

Getting to Ani

The first step is to get yourself to Kars. 

Kars is the nearest city and has an airport (KSY) that connects with Istanbul and Ankara.

There is also a train that travels from Ankara to Kars. We haven’t taken this train but you can see details at this link.

We took a bus from Van to Kars. Tickets cost 300 TL, and the journey took seven hours, leaving Van at 10:00. During this seven hour journey, the bus was stopped on six occasions: either at police checkpoints or being flagged down by police. Yes, you read that right. The bus was stopped basically every hour.

Police would come on to the bus, check our IDs and passports, take them off the bus to presumably run them through a system, and bring them back. The whole thing was pretty tedious, but no one on the bus ran into any issues with the authorities, and we were the only non-locals.

We bought our tickets through ‘Best Van’, but the bus company that actually drove the route was called Turgutreis. Once you arrive into Kars, there is a free shuttle bus that will take you from the bus station into the city centre. Give the driver a shout when you want to get off.

To get from Kars to Ani, you will need to catch the 10:00 bus from just outside of Sugar Beet Cafe. Head over here, pay 20 TL each way for your ticket in cash on the bus. The journey lasts about an hour. The bus waits around and then returns back to Kars, leaving Ani at 13:30.

How Long Do I Need to Explore Ani?

By getting the bus to and from Ani from Kars, you have two and a half hours to explore the site. And we found that this really worked out to be the perfect amount of time. We didn’t feel rushed, and even had a little time to buy postcards, a magnet, and slowly sip a cup of cay in the winter sunshine.

how to visit ani

Do I Need a Guide?

Maybe. When we arrived, there weren’t any guides working. We had, however, met an Iraqi Kurd on the bus who seemed to know a lot about Ani and was talking us through bits and pieces. There are a few plaques around the site with information, however, they are very lacking. I feel like so much more could be done to bring this site back to life, and tell Ani’s story!

I made sure that I did plenty of research before and after visiting to get a good grasp of the city’s prominence. Tours could be arranged in Kars to provide you with better insight.

how to visit ani

Entrance Requirements

As of December 23, the entrance fee is 180 TL. There is no need to buy your ticket in advance as this site is very much off the tourist trail and doesn’t receive hordes of visitors. Up until quite recently, Ani was a heavily monitored city, requiring visitors to apply for permits. Nowadays, you can just walk in without issues as long as you have your passport with you.  (We missed this memo and did not take our passports with us! Luckily, there weren’t many people visiting and the police let us enter anyway.) Entry is free with the Turkey Museum Pass.

Ani’s Hotspots

This is the route that we took around Ani. It took us around in a loop so we didn’t end up doubling back on ourselves, except when heading up to the citadel (but that’s unavoidable). Also, we found that the views and buildings were progressively more impressive in this order leaving the best til last.

– City walls

– Spot the cave dwellings on the other side of the gorge

– The characteristic black and orange checkerboard brickwork of Ani Palace

– The collapsed pillars of the Church of Saint Gregory Gagkashen

– Zoroastrian temple

– Church of the Holy Apostles

– The phenomenally preserved Armenian inscription on the walls of the Church of Saint Gregory of the Abughamrents. This is one of the iconic buildings of Ani as it is still largely in tact in comparison to the others.

– The minaret and view over the gorge from Manuchihr Mosque. Make sure you walk around the outside of the mosque to get amazing views over the gorge looking over to Armenia. Spot the remnants of the Old Silk Road Bridge that crossed the gorge.

– Climb the hill and over the rubble of the Citadel for views of the Maiden’s Castle on what looks like an island/peninsula that extends out into the gorge. The castle, unfortunately, is out of bounds.

– Make your way back towards the entrance, stopping to venture into Ani Cathedral. This is one of the largest standing structures on the site. Walk through and out the other side to see star shaped brickwork and khachkars carved into the brick.

– See the Church of the Redeemer which almost looks as though it has been cut in half. When we were there, there was so much scaffolding, that we could barely see the building. (Fingers crossed that that means restoration is going ahead!

– And the absolute best til last: The Church of St Gregory of Tigran Honents. Admire the artwork above the entrance way and the ancient inscription on the outside of the building before heading inside and being wowed by the floor to ceiling artwork.

Facilities at Ani

There are toilets, a cafe serving drinks and snacks, and a souvenir shop.

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

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Purchase your SafetyWing Travel Insurance here.

Top Tips for Visiting Ani

Bring your passport for smooth entry to the site.

Wear sturdy shoes. There is a huge amount of rubble and uneven paths.

Be prepared for the weather to be brutal. We went in November and it was really cold and windy: there are no shelters other than the cafe at the entrance. Equally, in summer you would be fully exposed.

Other Things to Do Nearby

After visiting Ani, head back to Kars, and do a little exploration here.

Wander up to Kars fortress for uninterrupted views over the city. Entrance is free.

Stop for coffee at Raskolnikov overlooking the river. This cafe/restaurant is built in an old hamam. (Check out this this blog post on Turkish coffee, so you know what to order.)

Have dinner at Kars Kazevi. We ordered the evelik (local green) and nettle soup which also had lentils and potatoes in. We then shared a plate of hangel which is squares of pasta served with a mound of yoghurt and caramelised onions on top. The meal is served with a plate of pickles and bread, and followed up with a cup of cay. (Take a look at this post on other Turkish vegetarian food to look out for on your Turkey adveture.) This was a really warm and comforting meal to finish off a very cold day of exploring the ruins of Ani.

Maybe head to Georgia next? Our next stop after Kars was Batumi in the Adjara region. Use this guide to find out how to make the journey.

Do you have any questions on how to visit Ani? Are you planning a trip to Ani?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations and questions.

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Garni and Geghard: the Perfect Day Trip from Yerevan

Garni and Geghard: the Perfect Day Trip from Yerevan

Garni and Geghard: the Perfect Day Trip from Yerevan

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The best day trip from Yerevan is undoubtedly to visit Garni and Geghard, and the Symphony of Stones; a Greco-Roman temple, a UNESCO listed 4 th century church, and a bizarre rock formation. And it’s completely achievable independently, so there is no need to book on to a guided tour with loads of other people and limited time at each spot. We spent six weeks in Armenia making several trips from Yerevan, and the Garni and Geghard trip takes the top spot! This travel guide will give you all the info you need to make this day trip from Yerevan.

Looking for things to do in Yerevan? Read this post here.

Or maybe looking for the best vegetarian spots and cafes? Check out this post.

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

First Stop: Garni Temple

Travel Yerevan to Garni

The bus to Garni leaves from a small bus station a little out of town called Gai. It is in the wrong location on Google Maps, but someone has very helpfully added a marker for ‘the real Gai Bus Station’, so make sure you search for this one instead!

Take a GG Taxi (a local Armenian taxi app) to the real Gai Bus Station, which is close to a Mercedes Benz shop.

Get on bus no. 266, which leaves every hour on the hour. It costs about 500 AMD (prices may have increased, but it still gives you a rough idea), and will take about 45 minutes to reach Garni.

Pay for your ticket on the bus and ask the driver to let you know when to get out (or follow the journey along on Google Maps).

Also, I would recommend against sitting anywhere near the back. This is a very bumpy ride.

Garni Gorge, Garni and Geghard

History of Garni Temple

As Armenia was the first country to declare itself Christian back in the 4th century, most historic religious structures around the country are also Christian. However, this temple actually predates Christianity in Armenia!

It is believed to have been built back in the 1st century when Paganism was practised. It survived the conversion to Christianity, and several occupations until an earthquake hit in the 17th century. The temple was rebuilt and completed by 1975. It has a Greco-Roman colonnaded style, which is unique in the country.

uchisar castle

Exploring Garni Temple

The entrance fee for Garni Temple is 1500 AMD.

Garni temple sits overlooking the Garni Gorge, which means that you get beautiful panoramic views too. Wander round the temple, take in the views, but also make sure you step into the ruins of the Roman bath. It seemed that most people didn’t realise that this was here, but you’ll see what is left of mosaic decoration that lined the bottom of the baths. You won’t need much time to explore Garni Temple – 45 minutes should be plenty.

garni temple, garni and geghard

ancient mosaic of bathhouse at Garni temple

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Second Stop: Geghard Monastery

Travel Garni Temple to Geghard Monastery

From Garni, you’ll have to find a taxi as it’s realistically too long to walk (unless you’re not doing this just as a day trip from Yerevan). We walked down the road a bit from the Garni Temple entrance to a small coffee place. While we were waiting for the coffee, we got chatting with the woman serving us. And she mentioned that her Dad would be able to take us!

So she called up Dad, and we arranged 3000 AMD for a drop off at Geghard, he would wait an hour for us, then take us for a quick look at the Symphony of Stones, and then drop us back at the bus stop.

Otherwise, you will be able to find a driver outside of the temple; just be aware that this is the prime spot to pick up a taxi so you might have to do a bit of bargaining to get the price down to a reasonable amount!

You could always try your hand at hitchhiking. Geghard Monastery is situated at the end of a road, not a through road, so anyone going that way will be going to see the monastery.

There is no bus to take you from Garni to Geghard, though it would make an absolute killing if there was a shuttle running this route!

interior of geghard monastery, day trip from yerevan

History of Geghard Monastery

It is understood that the beginnings of this monastery date back to the 4th century, but the current building dates back to the 13th century. The monastery is UNESCO listed and sits on the site of a sacred spring in a cave that still flows to this day. 

Geghard means ‘spear’ in Armenian, and the monastery holds this name as it housed what is believed to be the spear that wounded Jesus. It became a pilgrimage site for this reason, but the spear is no longer kept in the monastery. Instead, you’ll find it in Echmiadzin Cathedral which is the oldest cathedral in the WORLD, and makes another great day trip from Yerevan!

geghard monastery, day trip from yerevan

Explore Geghard Monastery

There is no entrance fee.

The monastery is located at the end of a road in a valley, and like with Garni Temple, the views are outstanding. There are several rooms and stairs and passageways to explore, so make sure you take a look round everything! You’ll see impressive rock carvings, ancient inscriptions, the sacred spring, and khachkars (cross stone – an Armenian intangible cultural heritage artform recognised by UNESCO). 

Make sure you go up the steps round the left of the monastery as it will take you through a passage to a room above the main part of the monastery.

And also make sure you head through the archway to the right of the Monastery where you’ll see a picturesque arched bridge running over a stream.

Is it Armenia’s most impressive monastery? 

I honestly think so. I was absolutely blown away by its decoration, how well it has all been preserved, and its stunning location.

You’ll need about an hour to see everything here.

Third Stop: Symphony of Stones

Travel from Geghard Monastery to the Symphony of Stones

Get the taxi driver to take you back to Garni via the Symphony of Stones.

Explore the Symphony of Stones

There is a small entrance fee of 200 AMD.

From the ticket desk, walk down the path, but remember to look up! In the cliff face you will see hexagonal shaped tubes of rock that are entirely natural. It is similar to the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, just the other way round (so sticking out of the cliff as opposed to out of the ground).

You’ll need about 15 minutes here. It’s a quick one, but a really interesting rock formation to view!

symphony of stones, garni and geghard

Back to Yerevan

Tell your taxi driver you are heading back to Yerevan and he will drop you at the nearest bus stop (there are several in Garni). Wait until you see the 266 bus, and jump back on.

Arrive back at the real Gai Bus Station, and order yourself a GG Taxi back to your accommodation.

Take a look at our post on Armenian public transport for more tips!

Have you been to Garni or Geghard?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations and questions.

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How to Travel from Kars to Batumi by Bus

How to Travel from Kars to Batumi by Bus

How to Travel from Kars to Batumi by Bus

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Travelling from Kars to Batumi is a whole day affair, starting early and finishing late. It is not a difficult journey, but is definitely only a journey that I would recommend for the more intrepid and flexible traveller who is comfortable with not being too comfortable.

Kars (also recognised as little Siberia) is the stop-off point for exploring the abandoned ancient capital city of medieval Armenia, Ani. And if you are heading out to north east Turkey, this is a must! This contrasts hugely with the built up, modern and wacky city of Batumi.

So you’ve donned your winter gear and braved the bitter temperatures in Kars to explore Ani, now you’re ready to venture into Georgia? Find out how to make the journey from Kars to Batumi in this detailed guide.

Ani, kars to batumi by bus

 

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Buying Your Ticket

Head to Eski Otogar (the bus station) in Kars, and go into Yesil Artvin Ekspres. This is THE only company that services this route heading east across the country to Hopa, just south of the Turkey/Georgia border. One bus makes this journey each day, so I would recommend buying your ticket at least a day before you make your journey from Kars to Batumi, rather than on the day. Only cash is accepted as payment, and you must bring your passport.

On the Day

At the Bus Station

The bus leaves at 10:00, so get to the bus station a little early to stow your luggage underneath the bus and get yourself on the bus. The bus is not modern like all the other buses that we caught around the country. There are two seats on either side of the aisle, a small amount of overhead storage for maybe a handbag and little space under the seat for extra storage.

The journey will be six to seven hours, so get yourself comfortable and make sure you have plenty of snacks and water. Also, our driver was smoking the whole way, so prepare yourself for that too!

kars to batumi

Leg 1: The Journey across Turkey, Kars to Hopa

The route is really scenic, journeying through newly built tunnels cut into the mountains. You’ll drive alongside glacial blue rivers and huge mountains, so try to get a window seat. The roads are well maintained and the mountain passes are not treacherous.

There will be one main stop by a river that has seating, a restaurant, shop and toilets. We were given half an hour here for lunch in the middle of the journey – around 14:00 ish.

Along the way, the bus stopped to pick up more people. There were no seats available so people were standing or sitting in the aisle. Be prepared to get quite cosy.

The bus will stop in Hopa at the side of the road at about 16:30.

Leg 2: Hopa to Sarp Border Crossing

Cross the road to where the shuttle buses and huts are, and ask for the bus to Sarp or Georgia (pronounced ‘Gurjistan’ in Turkish).

Check the price before getting into the shuttle bus. We were quoted 20 TL each to pay when getting off the bus. However, the bus stopped half way and we were told to get off. We did, and were then requoted 20 TL each plus 20 TL for each backpack.

‘No, ta’, was what we said. And along with another backpacker taking this same route, we said we would flag down a taxi for the rest of the journey. 40 TL for each of us, meant that the total would be 120 TL and we could definitely get a taxi for cheaper than that.

We walked over to the main road, and they came and chased up saying that we didn’t need to pay extra for the bags. So we jumped back on to the shuttle bus, and off we went to the border.

When we got off the bus, we paid our 20 TL each, but the driver obviously had not been informed that we were not paying for the bags. We stood our ground, translated the info into Turkish as he didn’t speak English, and he waved us through, no problems.

Leg 3: Crossing the Border

This border crossing felt like an airport. It has travelators because the place is so huge. Scan your bags and get your passport stamped on the Turkish side, scoot through all the duty free shops, and then scan your bags and get your passport stamped on the Georgian side.

Welcome to Georgia! You will love it here in this beautiful country.

On the Georgian side of the border, there are ATMs, toilets and even free tourist information brochures. Get some cash out to pay for the next leg of the journey.

kars to batumi

Leg 4: Marshrutka from Sarpi to Batumi

A marshrutka is a term used to describe a minibus across the Caucasus. Marshrutkas will be parked up outside the border. Find one that says Batumi (ბათუმი) and jump on. There will likely be no luggage space so squeeze your bag on as best you can. The journey will take 20/30 minutes in to the town centre and cost 2 GEL, payable when leaving the marshrutka. Keep track of your location and your accommodation location on Google Maps/Maps.me, and then say to the driver when you want to get off along the route.

When we took this journey, we arrived into our accommodation in Batumi at 19:00, having left our Kars accommodation at about 09:00.

Read our Georgian marshrutka guide for tips for the second half of the journey.

And take a look at all the best things to do and eat in Batumi here.

the octopus cafe, kars to batumi
adjarian khachapuri, kars to batumi

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

Definitely definitely definitely buy travel insurance for all of your trips abroad. I know it seems like an expense that you’d rather not be having, but if you do need it, you will be SO thankful that you have a safety net to fall back on! We have used SafetyWing religiously for the last two years of backpacking, and we 100% recommend it, whether you are travelling for a couple of weeks, a couple of months, or even a couple of years. And it is the most budget friendly, best value option out there!
Purchase your SafetyWing Travel Insurance here.

Top Tips

  • Download a map of Georgia on Maps.me and Google Maps so that you can track your location offline.
  • Mark the location of your accommodation in Batumi on Google Maps so you can work out when is best to get off the marshrutka on the Georgian side.
  • Have a small amount of Turkish lira to pay for leg 2 to the border.
  • Maybe have a small amount of Georgian lari to pay for the final leg into Batumi (but there is an ATM at the border).
  • Bring snacks and water – this is a long old journey.
  • Don’t let the shuttle driver for the last leg to the Turkish side of the border play silly buggers and charge you extra for bags. Stand your ground and/or threaten to get a taxi.
batumi beach

Have you travelled from Kars to Batumi by bus? Or are you planning on travelling this route?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

Thanks for reading!

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