Top Tips for Travelling from Sofia to Bucharest by Bus

Top Tips for Travelling from Sofia to Bucharest by Bus

Top Tips for Travelling from Sofia to Bucharest by Bus

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This was the final (and longest) leg of our bus journey to reach Romania. We started our travel at 08:30 in Pristina, Kosovo; then headed to Skopje, North Macedonia; and now we had just arrived into Sofia, Bulgaria at 21:00. We had booked accommodation in Sofia so that we could get our heads down, and then head from Sofia to Bucharest by bus in the morning. BUT (and this is where it got interesting), we hadn’t booked our tickets yet.

As with every other leg of this mammoth journey, we were booking the tickets as and when. However, Sofia International Bus Station is an absolute mission and a half: a really stressful place in the evenings. Everyone seems to be panicking. At around 22:30, a woman was running round asking anyone to get her a bus to Vienna this evening. Vienna is a long old bus ride away! And this late in the day and so last minute?!

Because it was so stressful, I know that we could have done with a lot more information on this journey and the international bus station to prepare us better. If you are thinking about travelling from Sofia to Bucharest by bus, or heading somewhere else from Sofia, I hope this helps out. So, here you go, folks!

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

Sofia International Bus Station is Intense

The bus station is an outdoor maze of small counters run by different bus companies. Some stay open very late: we were probably there until 23:00, but a lot close earlier depending on the times their company runs buses. Companies operate similar routes with different stops and different prices, so make sure you ask around and check at the train station to weight up all your options. Don’t just agree to the first company that offers your route: you can always come back to them.

Most companies only accept cash as payment, even when they had the stickers in their doors advertising that they accept Mastercard and Visa! Don’t worry though, there is an ATM on site which does not charge withdrawal fees. We withdrew cash using our Starling cards without any problem or fees.

Sofia city views, Sofia to Bucharest by bus

Sofia

Buying Bus Tickets Online

We have visited many websites for bus companies in the Balkans, the majority of which I would not feel comfortable inputting my card details, passport details etc. Many are not user friendly, don’t translate well into English, and some don’t even have the https in the URL. If this is the case, I would not recommend booking your tickets online. However, we found FlixBus that has a great website. We have booked several buses with them through their website; it’s logical and reliable. Buy your ticket, and they send you an email confirmation with a QR scanner. That’s it.

Is It Cheaper to Buy Online or In Person?

For our example of the Sofia to Bucharest that dreadful evening, it was far cheaper to buy the tickets online. The agent initially quoted us 20 EUR each for a seven hour journey which seemed reasonable. Then within about ten minutes, the price had jumped to 36 EUR each. Erm…what?! He told us that we were better off checking the website instead of booking through him. He even gave us his wifi password to complete the booking. It came to 18 EUR booking directly through Flix Bus.

Bus Times from Sofia to Bucharest

There are two buses that head to Bucharest from Sofia each day with Flix Bus: one at 13:15 arriving in at 20:15, and one at 23:30 arriving in at 06:30 the next day. We got the bus in the day from Sofia, and the bus overnight back to Sofia, and we can thoroughly recommend getting the night bus if possible. There won’t be as much mayhem at the border at night, so your journey will be shorter. Also, you save on a night’s accommodation. Win win.

Sofia tram, Sofia to Bucharest by bus

Getting on the Bus

Make sure you arrive at least fifteen minutes early at the international bus station. They will scan you QR code on your tickets and throw your bag underneath the bus. Now, our tickets had a caveat about luggage allowance: certain dimensions, weight etc. We both had huge backpacks that probably weigh 20kg, a smaller backpack we wear on the front that’s got to be coming up 10kg, and a small bag with odds and ends. No one checked anything, so regular luggage should be ok – just don’t bring five suitcases!

Sit in the seat assigned on your ticket. There is space for hand luggage overhead and under the seat in front. There is also a flip down table, charging points and wifi.

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

Definitely definitely definitely buy travel insurance for all of your trips abroad. I know it seems like an expense that you’d rather not be having, but if you do need it, you will be SO thankful that you have a safety net to fall back on! We have used SafetyWing religiously for the last two years of backpacking, and we 100% recommend it, whether you are travelling for a couple of weeks, a couple of months, or even a couple of years. And it is the most budget friendly, best value option out there!
Purchase your SafetyWing Travel Insurance here.

Breaks Along the Way

There is one designated stop of maybe fifteen minutes at a petrol station that has decent toilets with a little cafe and shop just before Veliko Tarnovo, so about three hours in.

The bus then stops at Veliko Tarnovo if people are booked to pick it up from there, otherwise it will just continue on.

Veliko Tarnovo, Sofia to Bucharest by bus

Veliko Tarnovo

The Border Crossing

This is where the fun starts! The bus crosses the border at Ruse and it is by a long way, the busiest land border crossing we have ever experienced. The bus was crawling along in traffic for about two hours to cross the border.

Once we reached the border, the border police came up on to the bus. They asked everyone where they were heading and took their passports or ID cards in a huge pile off of the bus. It freaks me out when someone takes my passport away, but it’s the way that it works at this border.

The bus pulled over and we had to wait for thirty minutes to get the passports back. There is a small duty free, a currency exchange and toilets here.

We got back on the bus and were handed our passports back, which had been stamped with a Bulgarian exit and Romanian entry.

From the Border to Bucharest

This last part of the journey should only take about an hour, and will bring you to Autogara Militari.

You’ve Arrived!

Flix Bus’s station, called Autogara Militari, is quite a way out of the city centre so you will likely need to get more transport into the centre. We eventually arrived at 22:00.

I would 100% recommend getting a Bolt pick up from the station to your accommodation as it will probably cost you between 2-3 GBP. Otherwise, jump on a bus like us or there is a metro station close by.

There is a taxi layby right outside the entrance to the bus station which is where your Bolt can pick you up from.

If getting the bus, turn right out of the bus station and then turn right when you hit the main road. The bus stops just outside the flower shop. You can tap your Starling card for payment on the bus: 3 RON each.

If getting the metro, turn right out of the bus station, cross the main road, and the metro station is just on your left.

Google Maps works well in Bucharest so you can see live bus times etc. to keep track of where you’re going.

Romania, Sofia to Bucharest by bus

Welcome to Bucharest

Where to Stay in Bucharest

We would recommend Global Downtown Apartments – Universitate – Balcescu for a budget stay. We stayed here and it ticked all the boxes. You have your own private space with a lounge area and a small kitchen so you can prepare your own meals. The rooms are quiet even though the entrance is from a main road, and the location is great for exploring the city and reaching public transport. There is a  minimum two night stay requirement.

LazyNest Residence and 2 Vis-a-Vis Studio – Gara de Nord apartments look great too!

Have travelled from Sofia to Bucharest by bus? Is there anything else you would add?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

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How to Visit Dracula’s Castle: Brasov to Bran

How to Visit Dracula’s Castle: Brasov to Bran

How to Visit Dracula’s Castle: Brasov to Bran

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Built atop a rocky perch, Dracula’s Castle (Bran Castle) stands tall with white brickwork, exposed beams and is topped with orange rooftiles and tall spires. You can see exactly why it has its associations with Dracula: it feels ominous and imposing, maybe even intimidating (or is that just psychological?). The castle evidently has plenty of stories to tell and has been associated with Romanian myths and legends. This really is an intriguing spot to add to your Romania itinerary.

We visited as a half-day trip from Brasov, and so have put together this guide on how to visit Dracula’s Castle.

Dracula's Castle

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

A Little of Bran Castle’s Back Story

A castle has been on this site since early 1200s, however, the stone castle of Bran was built in the late 1300s. Used as a defence against the invading Ottomans and a checkpoint along a trade route, it wasn’t until after the Austro-Hungarian rule in 1920, that the Romanian royalty were handed the property.

Queen Marie was particularly fond of the castle and instigated renovations to bring it into the condition that we see today. Communism came in, the royal family were expelled, and their property taken. After the fall of communism, properties were redistributed to their rightful heirs and Bran Castle was turned into a museum.

visit dracula's castle

The beautifully photogenic courtyard

views from the top of Bran castle, dracula's castle

Views from the top

Did Dracula actually live here?

Ok, so first thing to clear up is that, quite upsettingly, this isn’t actually anything to do with the fictional character from Bram Stoker’s novel, Dracula. Fictional Dracula is very often mixed up with the very much real Vlad Tepes (or Vlad Dracul or Vlad the Impaler as you may know him) who was a ruler of the Wallachia region of Romania in the 1400s. Even fictional Dracula is not believed to have been set here.

So it seems that the imposing castle is a place where people could picture Dracula living and so it stuck? Disappointing, eh? Nevertheless, the castle is an amazing piece of architecture with a museum inside dedicated to Queen Marie of Romania, that is worthy of a visit.

I want to suck your blood!

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

Definitely definitely definitely buy travel insurance for all of your trips abroad. I know it seems like an expense that you’d rather not be having, but if you do need it, you will be SO thankful that you have a safety net to fall back on! We have used SafetyWing religiously for the last two years of backpacking, and we 100% recommend it, whether you are travelling for a couple of weeks, a couple of months, or even a couple of years. And it is the most budget friendly, best value option out there!
Purchase your SafetyWing Travel Insurance here.

Where is the castle?

Dracula’s Castle or Bran Castle is located in the village of Bran in Transylvania, about 25km southwest of Brasov. It makes an easy day or even half-day trip from Brasov on a public bus that only takes about 50 minutes.

visit dracula's castle

How do I get to Bran Castle from Brasov?

Head to Autogara 2 in Brasov city where a public bus leaves this station every half hour. You can’t pay for your ticket in advance, so just turn up, jump on and pay 13 RON (price in 2022) in cash to the driver. We got there about ten minutes early and were able to buy tickets and grab a seat without problems.

It is a straight forward journey and will get you there in about 50 minutes. The bus will drop you right outside the castle entrance. Walk through the market stalls selling Dracula souvenirs and enter the castle. Maybe stop for a Turkish coffee cooked over sand by this guy.

Red tower viewpoint, things to do in Korca

Professional 

How much does it cost?

Tickets cost 70 RON, so they’re pretty pricey for a backpacker budget. You buy your ticket at the gate and then have to scan the barcode when you enter the castle itself, so make sure you hold on to it until then. You can actually enter the grounds of the castle, wander round, have a picnic by the ponds, take photos of the castle etc. without paying any fee. It is only entering the castle that requires payment.

Shen Gjergji church

Castle grounds

Is it worth paying to go inside?

It depends on your interests. As someone who really appreciates unique and historic architecture, I would say yes! You get to enter several rooms which have been laid out with traditional furniture and paintings etc. There are rooms that have more of a museum feel about them with information on the castle’s history, Queen Marie and even Romanian folklore and legends. You get to climb the stairs through a secret passageway, stand out on the balcony for some great views of the surrounding area and the internal courtyard.

When we visited Romania, I felt like it was something that I really wanted to do: it’s probably Romania’s biggest claim to fame around the world! I think it was worth the entrance fee.

Korca Brewery Tasting Room

Korca Brewery Beer Taster

How long should you spend there?

We spent about an hour walking around the castle, reading the info on the exhibits and taking pictures. After visiting the castle, wander around the outside also. Maybe find a spot in the sunshine for a drink or a picnic.

Korca brewery

Does it get busy?

Yes! Queuing to get into a tourist attraction is THE worst, however, there are some instances where it is necessary, and this is one of them.

My advice is to get the first bus from Brasov that leaves at 8am to get you to the castle before the 9am opening. We arrived about ten minutes before opening and there were maybe twelve people waiting in the queue.

Get in and visit the castle first as this is where the backlog of people is created. The secret passageway and stairwells are narrow so it could easily cause a queue. If we didn’t arrive first thing, I probably would have struggled with the sheer amount of people.

Red tower viewpoint, things to do in Korca

Get that alarm set

How do I get back to Brasov?

Jump on the same bus on the other side of the road. The bus stop is right by a langos stand so you could always grab one of these while you’re waiting. It’s the same deal on the way back: you shouldn’t have to wait more than 30 minutes.

Where to Stay in Brasov

I wouldn’t really recommend the accommodation that we stayed in. There was no window, which is one of my absolute non-negotiables, but we didn’t realise until we got there. If we were going back to Brasov, we would book either Dinicu Residence – Central Location or MagicB up instead!

Have you been to Bran Castle? Are there any other tips that you would add?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

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How to Get from Pogradec to Ohrid

How to Get from Pogradec to Ohrid

How to Get from Pogradec to Ohrid

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Planning our route through Albania and into North Macedonia, I saw a spot on lake Ohrid on the Albanian side which looked nice: Pogradec. The idea was then to find a bus to take us an hour or so round the lake through the North Macedonian border and to Ohrid city. We had taken buses all around Albania, but we couldn’t work out how to get from Pogradec to Ohrid.

We arrived into Pogradec, and started asking around for our onward journey to Ohrid. The bus station said there were no buses. Why would there be no buses to drive an hour round the lake? Surely that’s a perfect day trip? Or vice versa? Confused and convinced that they must have had it wrong, we spoke to some other people; and sure enough, there is not a single bus that goes this route!

We couldn’t find much information on how to get from Pogradec to Ohrid online, so hopefully this small guide helps.

If you are in a similar situation, do not fear. You don’t have to pay for an expensive taxi ride. It will be more of a challenge, but that’s half the fun of travelling, right?

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

Tips for Making this Journey

1. Download a North Macedonia map on Maps.me. This has the locations of bus stops and walking paths that Google Maps has never heard of.

2. Make sure you have euro notes or Macedonian denar. The bus on the North Macedonian side will not accept Albanian lek as payment, and we didn’t see ATMs.

3. Be aware that you will have to carry luggage across the border yourself and walk for at least ten minutes between border posts.

Ok, so leg 1: Pogradec to the border/Tushemisht

There are minibuses that will take you to the border which are meant to leave at 8am, but it depends on how full the buses are. If there aren’t many people, you might have to hang around until there are enough. We were quoted 250 lek each. However, when we got the bus stop point early, a taxi driver offered us a ride for 400 lek total, so we jumped in the taxi and off we went.

how to get from pogradec to ohrid

En route to Ohrid

Leg 2: Crossing the Tushemisht/St. Naum Border

There was not a single other person here except for the guy checking passports. No queues, nothing. It was a dead easy border crossing. Bear in mind, to get from the Albanian border to the North Macedonian border, you will need to walk for about ten minutes. At the North Macedonian border, there was literally no one, not even border police! We approached the border and tried to catch their attention by making noise, talking loudly etc. and someone came out of an office. Stamped our passports, and again, off we trotted.

Alternative Leg 2.5: St. Naum Border to St. Naum Monastery Bus Stop

If you are particularly early for the bus (like we were) or didn’t know the bus drove directly to the border (like us), you might walk to the St.Naum bus stop and get picked up from there. Otherwise, skip to Leg 3 below.

Walk from the border along the road for a while, maybe five minutes, and you will see a small dirt path off to your left. Walk down here and you will hit a better trodden path. Follow this to the left and it will bring you round by a caravan park, St. Petka Church and St. Naum Monastery. You should see Lake Ohrid in front of you by this point. Follow the pedestrianised road along the water to the right. Walk through the fancy St. Naum archway and you will see a small wooden bus shelter ahead of you on the right. You’ve made it!

Leg 3: St. Naum Border to Ohrid City Centre

Sit tight at the other side of the North Macedonian border and the bus will come and pick you up. Just after 9:20 is the first bus. It costs 180 MKD each and must be paid in Macedonian denar or Euro notes (not coins). There are no ATMs at the border, so make sure you get enough currency before you cross the border. The bus will take you on a scenic drive around the lake and drop you into Ohrid city centre just before the City Central roundabout.

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

Definitely definitely definitely buy travel insurance for all of your trips abroad. I know it seems like an expense that you’d rather not be having, but if you do need it, you will be SO thankful that you have a safety net to fall back on! We have used SafetyWing religiously for the last two years of backpacking, and we 100% recommend it, whether you are travelling for a couple of weeks, a couple of months, or even a couple of years. And it is the most budget friendly, best value option out there!
Purchase your SafetyWing Travel Insurance here.

Looking for ideas for the rest of your North Macedonian itinerary? I would thoroughly recommend our two favourite spots in the country Bitola and Krusevo.

Bitola has a characterful Ottoman-style bazaar, plenty of restaurants catering to vegetarians, is home to the ancient mosaics of Heraclea Lyncestis, and has a great cafe culture.

Krusevo is a small but mighty mountain town known for its historic victory against the Ottomans. Perfect for street photography lovers, the cobbled streets and traditional buildings are idyllic. Make sure you head over to the UFO-like Ilinden monument too!

Skopje is the North Macedonian capital, full of quirky kitschy statues, a traditional Ottoman bazaar, cold Brutalist architecture, and works as a great base from which to visit the intricately decorated Tetovo Mosque.

Did you find this helpful with how to get from Pogradec to Ohrid? Will you be giving this route a go?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

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How to Explore Bosnia’s Beauty: Una National Park

How to Explore Bosnia’s Beauty: Una National Park

How to Explore Bosnia’s Beauty: Una National Park

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Thundering waterfalls, its fine, cool spray on your face, the phenomenally blue waters, and sheer tranquillity. Largely untouched by tourism, you will likely have Una National Park more or less to yourself. No crowds, no queues for the photo opportunities, just serenity. And I really mean that. Our experience at Una National Park was probably the quietest we had in the whole country, and it was bliss.

Bosnia and Herzegovina’s youngest national park sits on the boundary line with Croatia in the north west of the country, the Una river even creates a section of the boundary. Locals recommend pairing a visit to Una National Park with Croatia’s Plitvice Lakes, and while I’m sure this is phenomenal (the pictures I’ve see online look amazing), I’m pretty confident in saying that you’re unlikely to match the peacefulness of Una.

Best known for its rivers, lakes and waterfalls, Una National Park also features historic towns and ruins. Seeing all that Una National Park has to offer makes for a perfect weekend trip. Download your Bosnia and Herzegovina map on Maps.me and pack yourself a picnic.

Here is everything you need to know to visit Una National Park independently.

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

How to Get to Una National Park

Bihac is the closest city to the national park and so we decided to use this as our base. You can get here with a direct bus from Sarajevo, Banja Luka or Jajce.

Where to Stay in Bihac

We stayed at the beautiful Apartman Alma. It is clean, tastefully decorated, has good kitchen facilities, and feels spacious for such a small place. The host is so so friendly! We fully recommend this spot in Bihac for exploring Una National Park.

Studio Apartman 11 and Konak na Uni are great budget stays too that we had marked for our Una National Park trip.

Getting around the Park

Hire Yourself a Car

Once we arrived into Bihac, we spent an afternoon searching for a car to hire for the next two days. Bad move. There were no cars available in any of the companies in Bihac city centre. We spoke to our accommodation host to see if he could recommend anywhere. He pulled out all the stops for us: rang around car rental companies, booked us a car at a company outside of the city, drove us twenty minutes to go pick up the car, and helped us with translating paperwork. Forever grateful for the innate kindness of people: classic Bosnian hospitality.

So, the moral of the story is to book your car ahead of time.

The perfect little car for getting around the national park

The company was Berlina, a Volkswagen dealer, and I would highly recommend them (apart from the fact that they are outside of the city). It cost us 65 KM per day, and when we returned the car, they dropped us back at our apartment for no extra cost.

When we were having our panic about not being able to hire a car, we also called the Office of Una National Park to ask if any tours were running over the next couple of days that we could join. The answer was no, there are no tours to Una National Park. So hiring a car or paying for an all-day taxi, really is the only way to get around the national park.

My concern before hiring a car was the quality of the roads. I had heard horror stories from people taking road trips through the Balkans! However, I can report that the roads around Una National Park are pretty good and we had no problems getting around. Some of the smaller roads were gravel and some were single lane with passing places, but the overall quality was fine.

Best Spots to Visit

Our three favourite spots in Una National Park were Ĺ trbaÄŤki Buk, Martin Brod and Kulen Vakuf. There are lots of other small villages and towns with historic ruins, and options for activities such as white water rafting also.

Strbacki Buk

Strbacki (Štrbački) Buk is the largest waterfall in Una National Park, and it really is impressive. The bright blue, waters cascade down several layers. Alongside, a boardwalk follows the full length of the waterfall with multiple viewpoints from wooden towers and trodden footpaths towards the water’s edge.

There are stalls selling food, ice cream, drinks, local products etc. and plenty of benches and tables overlooking the river and the waterfall. Sit down and have yourself a beautifully scenic picnic.

There is an entrance fee of 7KM per person, plenty of space for parking and no parking fees.

Strbacki Buk, una national park

Una National Park’s main event

Martin Brod

Martin Brod has several smaller waterfalls that are hidden in amongst a village. There is not a huge amount of parking here. We were able to leave our car on a side road near Una-C hotel. If this isn’t available, there is plenty of space back across the bridge near the Martin Brod info point.

Keep an eye out for this guy. He is the cutest little tour guide in Martin Brod, and will happily show you around all the waterfalls (and wait for you while you take photos).

Walking towards the Martin Brod waterfalls, you will see a red bridge in front of you and a path veering to the left with a small wooden hut. Take the red bridge (you don’t have to pay to walk this first part) which takes you over small layered waterfalls. Continue walking for a short while (5/10 minutes) and you will be brought to another waterfall right in the middle of the village.  

layers of waterfalls at martin brod, una national park

Layers of waterfalls in Martin Brod

Returning back across the red bridge, head up the path next to the wooden hut to get to the main event. You will need to pay 3KM per person to enter. Just a short distance up this path, you will see a boardwalk bringing you to the perfect spot to view the waterfall MilanÄŤev Buk.

martin brod waterfall, bosnia and herzegovina

Behind what appears to be an abandoned building is a path that leads a traditional watermill and ecolaundry, as well as the start of Martha’s Path. Martha’s Path is a short 15 minute walk one-way that takes you alongside the glacial blue water. If you have a little extra time after viewing the waterfalls, I would recommend having a gentle stroll this way.

Our new wee mate waiting to show us the way

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

Definitely definitely definitely buy travel insurance for all of your trips abroad. I know it seems like an expense that you’d rather not be having, but if you do need it, you will be SO thankful that you have a safety net to fall back on! We have used SafetyWing religiously for the last two years of backpacking, and we 100% recommend it, whether you are travelling for a couple of weeks, a couple of months, or even a couple of years. And it is the most budget friendly, best value option out there!
Purchase your SafetyWing Travel Insurance here.

Kulen Vakuf

Kulen Vakuf is a small village on Una river. It has two cafes/restaurants right by the bridge into the village, as well as a restaurant just before the village called Havala. We grabbed an inexpensive lunch of veg soup with bread and grilled veg with rice from here. From Kulen Vakuf, you can walk up to the ruins of Ostrovica Fortress for amazing views over the area. Unfortunately the ruins are in such disrepair that you cannot easily walk around them, however the viewpoint in itself is worth the climb – it only took us about 45 mins. Once you get back down to Kulen Vakuf, grab a drink at one of the riverside restaurants and watch the gentle water flow by.

views from Ostrovica Fortress, una national park

Ostrovica Fortress viewpoint

Things to Do in Bihac

Bihac (Bihać) is a small city with river Una running through it. There are a few historical sites – a mosque, a church, a tower, Soviet-style buildings – but it only took us about 30 mins to an hour to see the majority.

I know it’s not a stand-out piece, but I love the buidling’s character!

There are several restaurants in town – notably Restoran Sofra which serves traditional Bosnian food. We found several vegetarian options here: classic shopska salad, a cheesy veg rice dish, pastas, pizzas, ajvar and other vegetarian dips.

Just out of town is a restaurant/cafe which has a seating area right on the river, named Mlin. It is set on a family-owned watermill, and the owner will be more than happy to tell you about its history. It is a beautiful setting to have a morning coffee or an evening drink.

Mlin restaurant, bihac

What a setting!

Looking for more waterfalls, lakes and rivers in Bosnia? Read about things to do in Jajce here.

Have you been to Una National Park? Is there anything else you would add?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

Thanks for reading!

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How to Visit Pocitelj from Mostar

How to Visit Pocitelj from Mostar

How to Visit Pocitelj from Mostar

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Crumbling and neglected, yet characterful. Time really has stood still here, and you get to have a glimpse into what life was like way back then. Pocitelj’s charm is in its architecture, its deteriorating winding paths, its unkempt gardens with overgrown plants, its rickety staircases, its stunning views. A fine example of an open-air museum, Pocitelj intrigues with its medieval and Ottoman character. Wander back in time, feel its history and witness its beauty.

If you love street photography and architecture, like us, you will love Pocitelj: this was honestly one of my favourite spots in Bosnia and Herzegovina! And if you’re making a trip to Mostar, take a half-day out to explore this fascinating place. Read my post on things to do in Mostar here.

This guide will help you with how to get to Pocitelj from Mostar, and all the practical details you may need to visit Pocitelj.

 

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

A Little Bit of History about Pocitelj

Pocitelj (PoÄŤitelj) is an open-air-museum town housing examples of Ottoman influence through its architecture. It was a town of great strategic importance during Ottoman times but began to lose this importance during the Austro-Hungarian rule, resulting in many residents moving elsewhere.

During the Bosnian war, Pocitelj became a target of the Croats’ due to its high percentage of Bosniak inhabitants. Buildings were damaged, as was the mosque and examples of Islamic art. The bombardment caused more inhabitants to move away from Pocitelj for their safety, and by the end of the war the town was largely abandoned. Work began to restore some of the buildings; the mosque has been brought back to its former glory, however, not all of the restoration followed traditional methods. This has left Pocitelj on the UNESCO tentative list.

Today, some residents have returned. They sell fresh juices, dried fruit and souvenirs to the few tourists that come to explore the area.

Pocitelj tower views

How to Get to Pocitelj from Mostar

This is the question! So, before we headed out here, I read plenty online about people having difficulty getting there and back, people getting stranded, people saying you need to hire a car, etc., etc.

The other thing is that the bus stop at Pocitelj does not appear on any bus timetables or Google Maps. It is, however on Maps.me.

But, in reality, it’s fine!

We went to Mostar East bus station and asked when the buses were leaving on Saturday. There was one at 12:30 that was heading from Mostar to Dubrovnik via a town called Capljina – the closest official bus stop to Pocitelj. When we got on to the bus, we showed the driver our ticket (which named Capljina as our destination), but explained that we actually wanted to get off at Pocitelj. He was fine about that and even appeared quite excited that we were going there. As we started to draw closer, he was pointing out the tower in the distance. After thirty minutes on the bus, we jumped out, crossed the road and we were there.

hammam pocitelj

How to Get Back to Mostar from Pocitelj

Now, getting back to Mostar is the real challenge.

The bus heading back the other way – so, Dubrovnik to Mostar – is scheduled to drive past Pocitelj around 19:00/19:30. This means you would be in Pocitelj for a long, old time; and while it is beautiful, it would be difficult to fill six/seven hours. So, we spoke to a woman working in a roadside cafe. She called her taxi driver friend and he drove us into Mostar for 20 EUR.

If you decide that this method is not for you, there are many group day trips that visit Pocitelj, Blagaj and Kravice waterfalls. Just bear in mind that organised tours generally give you a very short period of time to explore Pocitelj, so make sure you check this before booking. Ask at any tourist information desk in Mostar and they will have something for you.

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

Definitely definitely definitely buy travel insurance for all of your trips abroad. I know it seems like an expense that you’d rather not be having, but if you do need it, you will be SO thankful that you have a safety net to fall back on! We have used SafetyWing religiously for the last two years of backpacking, and we 100% recommend it, whether you are travelling for a couple of weeks, a couple of months, or even a couple of years. And it is the most budget friendly, best value option out there!
Purchase your SafetyWing Travel Insurance here.

Where to Stay in Mostar

Palmera was such a lovely place to stay. The rooms are spacious, there is a courtyard area, a shared tea and coffee station, and we were even given a welcome basket with some local sweet treats in! I would thoroughly recommend staying here for your trip to Mostar.

Luxury Studio Yasmine and Moon apartment are both the sort of place that we would love to book too!

Exploring Pocitelj

If arriving by bus, you will be dropped close to the lower gate. As Pocitelj is a walled town built into the side of a karst cliff, it requires a lot of walking up and down (unless you work it through systematically).

Entering through the lower gate, you will see the old han (inn) and then come to an area with a couple of restaurants, souvenir shops and some locals selling fruit and juice. Start walking up from here, you will see the hammam on your left and the mosque on your right. Taking the path to the left from here will bring you towards the northern-most part of the town and the abandoned tower.

Pocitelj hammam

Crumbling hammam

Now, let me be frank: the tower does look like it is pretty dodgy. Smooth, slippery stone staircase without railings, no passing places for other people, some sheer drops, and a generally crumbling building. Enter at your own risk as the buildings are not maintained.  The staircase spirals around the inside edge of the tower looking down into a large open space in the centre. At the top you can get some stunning views across the whole of the town: the mosque, the hammam and the Neretva river all in one frame.

Pocitelj tower staircase

Smooth and slippery tower steps

crumbling tower, visit pocitelj

The top level of the tower

tower viewpoint, visit pocitelj

Views over Pocitelj from the tower

Once you have had your fill of adrenaline, leave the tower and head upwards, roughly following the old town wall. Stop to venture down all the little alleyways to explore all Pocitelj’s pockets of architectural charm.

At Pocitelj’s higher gate, turn right and (again) more or less follow the town wall until you get to the main viewpoint for the whole town. There is a metal staircase and platform that has been added in for tourism purposes, so this felt safer. And the view is wonderful.

views across pocitelj, visit pocitelj

Views over Pocitelj

Working your way back down from here to the centre of town, stop in to take some photos of the mosque. The door was shut when we were there, so we asked if we could enter and they opened the door for us straight away. I had to cover my legs, so put my trusty baggy travelling pants (or jazzy pants) over the top of my shorts. No problems.

pocitelj mosque, bosnia and herzegovina

Pocitelj mosque

pocitelj mosque

Inside the mosque with its colourful glass

(Jazzy pants back into the daybag), head back down towards the lower gate. Stop to buy a souvenir, some frozen pomegranate juice or some dried figs to support the locals.

How Long to Visit Pocitelj

We spent about 3 hours in Pocitelj, including our lunch stop. The area is small and everything is in walking distance, though in the heat of the summer sun, walking up the many steps to the top of town can be tough. I would recommend at least an hour and a half to fully experience Pocitelj.

pocitelj

Restaurants in Pocitelj

There are several restaurants around Pocitelj, but we only ate at one – Bistro Stari Grad. The food was good and there were veggie options. We had the veg plate and peppers with cheese. (In reality, the veg plate is the same as the peppers with cheese, just with a few extra salad bits.) If you have been to this restaurant or any others, let me know what you think.

The veg plate

Are you planning to visit Pocitelj? 

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

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The Ultimate Guide to Train Travel in Romania: 11 Things to Know

The Ultimate Guide to Train Travel in Romania: 11 Things to Know

The Ultimate Guide to Train Travel in Romania: 11 Things to Know

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Train travel in Romania turned out to be the best way for us to get around the country. Hiring a car was not in the budget, and buses seemed to be more expensive and often only a little quicker than the train.

Train stations tend to be located more centrally in cities than the bus stations, which means that you can just walk to your accommodation and not have to fork out for taxi. So, for us, train travel was a no-brainer, but it completely depends on many factors and your style of travel.

If you’re looking for budget friendly travel with decent leg room, train travel in Romania is your best bet.

Train travel in Romania turned out to be relatively straight forward, though it did have some quirks. We used a lot of trains during our Romanian trip so decided to pull together all the information that we thought would be useful to you too.

 

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Buy your Tickets at the Machines

You get a discount for not bothering the people at the ticket desk (and if you’re at Gara de Nord in Bucharest, trust me, you don’t want to talk to them anyway!)

Book Tickets in Advance if Possible

Try to buy your tickets a few days in advance, especially if travelling at peak times. We didn’t manage to book on to a morning train to Bucharest, and so had to take a train leaving at 4am instead.

Double Check your Carriage and Seat Number

Tickets have assigned seat numbers. The carriages are not always marked on the trains correctly, and are also not necessarily in the right order, so it’s not always logical. I recommend double checking with a ticket controller as you get on to the train.

train travel in romania

Hold on to that Ticket

Your ticket could be checked multiple times throughout the journey, so hold onto it for the whole journey.

Luggage Storage is Overhead

Luggage storage is generally on metal racks above the seats. So if you have 20kg backpacks like us, get training to lift that bag above your head!

Trains are Owned by Different Companies

Trains are run by different companies, so double check your train number on your ticket matches that on the digital displays at the stations. Our train from Sinaia to Brasov was delayed and another train run by a different company taking the exact same route turned up just before our delayed train. We (and others, not just us!) got on this wrong train, and then got kicked off a few stops into the journey!

Don’t Worry about Tight Train Connections

If you have a connecting train that you miss because of a delay to your first train, you will be able to get your ticket switched to the next train. Make sure you get this new ticket at the ticket desk though. Don’t just jump on the next train with the ticket for the earlier train you missed. The ticket controllers are more than happy to kick you off a train.

We had a tight train connection of five minutes! Squeaky bum time. The first train ended up being ten minutes late, but the connecting train waited for the passengers from the late train. So, if you have the connection booked already and the train can wait, they likely will.

Haven't bought your travel insurance yet?

Definitely definitely definitely buy travel insurance for all of your trips abroad. I know it seems like an expense that you’d rather not be having, but if you do need it, you will be SO thankful that you have a safety net to fall back on! We have used SafetyWing religiously for the last two years of backpacking, and we 100% recommend it, whether you are travelling for a couple of weeks, a couple of months, or even a couple of years. And it is the most budget friendly, best value option out there!
Purchase your SafetyWing Travel Insurance here.

Trains are Generally Pretty Slow

A lot of train journeys go all around the houses, traipsing through monotonous fields for miles on end. Don’t expect to get there quickly.

train travel in romania

Tell Them that You Don’t Need a Seat

If the person at the ticket desk tells you that there are no seats available, tell them that you are ok to stand. They might huff and puff a bit, but will likely still sell you the ticket. Chances are that you will find an empty seat for at least part of your journey; just be ready to stand up if someone has that seat reserved.

train travel in romania

Ask about Last Minute or Late Release Tickets

For longer journeys, five hours for example, they will likely not sell a standing ticket. However, they do hold on to a small number of tickets to sell on the day. They are released at a certain time before the train departs. If your train is sold out, ask when the late release is and get in the queue for bang on that time!

Facilities on Trains and at the Stations

Most stations have toilet facilities, a small shop and a café. Smaller stations might not have the ticket machines, so you will need to buy your tickets from the desk (and unfortunately not get your discount).

Trains are pretty comfortable and have basic toilet facilities.

Do you have any more top tips for train travel in Romania? Are you planning a trip to Romania?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

Thanks for reading!

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