Top Tips for the Tbilisi to Yerevan Train

by Relentless Roaming | Jan 24, 2024 | Armenia, Armenia Transport, Georgia, Georgia Transport, Transport

Top Tips for the Tbilisi to Yerevan Train

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For a budget backpacker, an overnight journey always feels like a win because you save on a night’s accommodation! And while you save money, you often lose the will to live once you arrive at your destination because you are so knackered from the night before. Now, don’t get me wrong, the overnight Tbilisi to Yerevan train isn’t strictly an exception to the rule; you will be tired. But, because of the timings of border crossings, and the (half) decent sleeping conditions, you’ll likely be in a better state than you were expecting when you get to the other side. Also, this is an experience in and of itself!

We have put together this guide to share all our tips on taking the Tbilisi to Yerevan train overnight, and hopefully answer the questions that you might have.

Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase through an affiliate link, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! This just helps us to continue creating blog posts. We will only ever recommend products and services that we have tried and loved ourselves.

Top Tips for the Tbilisi to Yerevan Train

Where to Stay in Tbilisi

How long is the journey?

What are the sleeping arrangements like?

What facilities are on board?

How is best to buy tickets?

How often does the train run?

What is the Georgia border crossing like?

What is the Armenia border crossing like?

Arrival into Yerevan

Onward travel in Yerevan

So what was the whole experience like overall?

Don’t fancy an 11-hour sleeper train?

Where to Stay in Tbilisi

We stayed at Magnolia, which is a lovely hotel with beautiful rooms with big windows, so that you can catch the stunning sunrise each morning! They serve a buffet breakfast, and have a roof terrace too.

How long is the journey?

Our journey took about eleven hours. Obviously, if there is a hold-up at the border for whatever reason, the time could vary, but this gives you a general idea. The train leaves Tbilisi Central Station promptly at 20:20, and we arrived into Yerevan Railway Station at about 07:00 the next day.

Planning Your Trip?

These are our favourite resources that we use religiously for planning our travels at home and while on the road. Use them for your trip planning too!

Accommodation: for the best deals, we use Booking.com, and Agoda.com. And what’s even better is that you build up loyalty points the more you book, which gets you exclusive offers like extra discounts, free breakfast, free room upgrades, and cashback!

Transport: For buses and trains, we swear by BusBud, and 12Go Asia.

For flights, we find them on Skyscanner and make sure to book through Trip.com because you can rack up points which turn into credit on your account, and sometimes free lounge access.

Travel Insurance: THE best budget-friendly insurance SafetyWing – no question.

SIM Cards/Tickets/Experience: Klook is the way to go!

What are the sleeping arrangements like?

Well, it depends on your ticket. Fancy first class is two beds in a cabin, second class is four bunks in a cabin, while third class is an open carriage with loads of bunks (only ever two bunks high). We travelled in third class, and honestly, it was pretty good. Everyone was given a beige sheet, pillow and pillowcase, and the bunks themselves were comfortable enough.

What facilities are on board?

There are toilets and evidently a shower (because we were given a towel with our bedding), but we didn’t try it out.

There is nowhere to buy food on board, so you need to buy everything that you would need for the whole journey in Tbilisi beforehand. Some people brought small kettles with them. Others brought litre bottles of vodka. There is a water dispenser, but I would still recommend bringing your own water.

The top bunks have access to a thin window, while the bottom bunks have a small table in between them. Each bunk has power outlets, reading lights, a couple of hooks to hang up jackets and a pocket to put your important stuff in while you sleep.

The bottom bunks have luggage storage under the bunks, while the top bunks have luggage storage above the bunks. So if you have heavy bags, it’s better to go for the lower bunks.

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Purchase your SafetyWing Travel Insurance here.

How is best to buy tickets?

We bought our tickets at Tbilisi Central station as we didn’t have much luck working out how to do it online. When you reach the station take the escalators to the top floor, and take a ticket from the machine. (There was no one there when we arrived, but still, we were asked to take a ticket.)

Make sure you have cash and your passport with you. If you need cash, the Liberty ATM on the floor below by the Turkish coffee stand does not charge withdrawal fees.

Our third class tickets cost 85.8 GEL each.

I would always recommend booking the tickets at least a few days in advance. Having said that though, there were people buying tickets on the day while we were waiting for the Tbilisi to Yerevan train; they got on with no problems.

How often does the train run?

Now, this is something that is forever changing. Back in the olden days (I mean 2022/23), the Tbilisi to Yerevan train ran every evening in the summer months, and every odd-numbered date in the winter months. This year (2024), my understanding is that the odd-numbered date rule has remained throughout the whole year of 2023 and into 2024. My advice would be to assume that you can only travel on this train every other day, and to be super flexible with accommodation plans.

What is the Georgia border crossing like?

You should get to the Georgia border crossing at around 22:00. Everyone had to get off the train and queue to have passports checked and stamped. Once everyone has a stamp and is back on the train, border security walks the full length of the train to double check all the stamps have been issued. The whole process took 60 – 90 minutes.

What is the Armenia border crossing like?

We got to the border at around 00:30. The border guards came on to the train with portable passport checking devices. They scanned everyone’s passports, and stamped them on board. We were the only non-Russian speakers on the train, and so we were unable to communicate with the border guards. Maybe this was a blessing in disguise, because they couldn’t ask us any questions! Again, this probably took about 60 – 90 minutes.

Arrival into Yerevan

So, the rest of the journey is smooth sailing until you reach Yerevan at around 07:00, so you could get a good five hours of solid sleep.

Onward travel in Yerevan

Yerevan Railway Station is right next to Sasuntsi David metro station, so you can use this to get into the centre of the city. The metro starts running at around 07:30, so no need to rush off the sleeper train! You’ll need to pay 100 AMD in cash for a plastic token to ride the metro. There is an ATM in the metro if you haven’t got any local currency yet.

Otherwise, you can jump in a taxi. I would recommend downloading GG Taxi, a local Armenian taxi app so that you don’t have to barter with the drivers. You’ve only just entered the country, you don’t know the going rate of a taxi ride, haven’t got a grasp of the new currency yet either, and are tired, which means that taxi drivers are likely to rip you off! Sasuntsi David metro station supposedly has free wifi. If not, see if a local could call you a GG, you can jump in and pay in cash. Everything that you need know about taking public transport in Yerevan is right here in this post.

Read our top things to do in Yerevan here and the best restaurants for vegetarians here – the falafel wrap game is strong!

So what was the whole experience like overall?

It was pretty painless actually. The train left on time, the beds were comfortable enough, the border crossings were smooth. My main criticism is the fact that the third class area doesn’t have much ventilation which means that the air gets very breathy and sweaty. It didn’t seem the healthiest especially in the post-COVID era.

But would I recommend the Tbilisi to Yerevan train? Yes. It was an experience to get the old Soviet train to take you from A to B, and it was more comfortable than a marshrutka would have been.

Don’t fancy an 11-hour sleeper train?

I get it, it’s not everyone’s bag. There are a few marshrutkas that run this route every day from Avlabari and Ortachala bus stations in Tbilisi. They tend to leave when they are full, so turn up early and prepare yourself for an hour or so’s wait. The marshrutka will then arrive into Kilikia bus station in Yerevan.

The journey is quicker and cheaper than the train, so if you’ve done the old Soviet train thing, and are just looking to get the journey done, this alternative might be for you.

Marshrutkas are small, have little leg room or luggage space, can get really uncomfortably packed and claustrophobic, and the drivers are generally not the most cautious. Read our guide to all things marshrutka here.

If you found this post helpful, and would like to support us, you could buy us a coffee at the link below.

No pressure!

We really do like coffee, though.

Fancy giving this route a go? Or have you already taken the overnight Tbilisi to Yerevan train?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

Thanks for reading!

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The Ultimate Guide to Albania Bus Travel

by Relentless Roaming | Nov 15, 2023 | Albania, Albania Transport, Transport

The Ultimate Guide to Albania Bus Travel

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Searching for information online about Albania bus travel and schedules is a tough task. My go-to websites/apps don’t have any information; they reckon that schedules don’t exist. But they do, of course they do; these websites just aren’t in the know. Getting around Albania by bus just requires being a bit braver than in other Eastern European countries.

Now, when I say ‘braver’, I don’t mean that you are taking your life in your hands by getting in an Albanian bus. What I do mean, is that you will have to do a lot of crossing your fingers, standing at the side of the road where a local thinks the bus passes, and getting up close and personal (and likely very sweaty!) with everyone else on the bus.

Travelling by bus in Albania is a whole cultural experience in itself, and I would say that if you haven’t jumped in a furgon (more on that later!), you haven’t really been to Albania.

We spent five weeks exploring the whole country by bus, and so we have put together this ultimate guide to Albania bus travel to give you the info that we wish we had!

Road through Valbona, Albania bus travel

The Ultimate Guide to Albania Bus Travel

Road conditions are improving

A furgon is a minibus

Bus stations aren’t central located

Big buses have aircon

Cities have multple bus stations

Start travel days early

You might not find direct buses

Don’t attempt the Saranda to Ksamil but in the summer

Locals know best

Bus stations are marked on Maps.me

The Albanian transport website

Everything is possible in Albania.

Road conditions are improving

Road conditions along the main routes are pretty good. The older blogs with reviews about potholed and dangerous roads are becoming more and more obsolete. The road quality around Albania is improving significantly.

That being said, the road from Shkoder to the Komani Lake ferry terminal is an absolute shocker. We were being thrown around in the bus for two and a half hours because of the lumpy roads. (Fingers crossed this will be fixed because it is a main route for tourists venturing up to Valbona in the Albanian Alps.) Find out more about hiking in the Albanian Alps here.

A furgon is a minibus

Albania bus travel is all about the furgon. Furgons are minibuses that yoyo back and forth on a specific route (very much like marshrutkas you’ll find in ex-Soviet republics). They are very flexible and so will pick you up or drop you off anywhere along their route. They have their destination on a sign in the window. Flag it down, jump in, and then pay by cash when you leave. Bear in mind that more people will be squeezed in than can actually fit.

Furgon down the Albanian Alps

Planning Your Trip?

These are our favourite resources that we use religiously for planning our travels at home and while on the road. Use them for your trip planning too!

Transport: For buses and trains, we swear by BusBud, and 12Go Asia.

For flights, we find them on Skyscanner and make sure to book through Trip.com because you can rack up points which turn into credit on your account, and sometimes free lounge access.

Travel Insurance: THE best budget-friendly insurance SafetyWing – no question.

SIM Cards/Tickets/Experience: Klook is the way to go!

Bus stations aren’t centrally located

Bus stations are generally out of the main part of town. Most bus stations have a public bus service nearby that can take you into the city. Buses connecting out of town stations to the city centre have a very small fee. Pay this in cash on the bus, sometimes, 30 or 40 lek.

Bigger buses have aircon

Bigger buses have aircon and connect larger cities. They tend to be more comfortable but are not necessarily more expensive. Pay on board in cash.

Cities have multiple bus stations

Larger cities may have several bus stations in different parts of the city servicing buses to different parts of the country, so make sure you check which bus station you need to go to first.

Start travel days early

Albania bus travel is an adventure! Because the bus times are not always reliable, I would recommend starting your travel days early, and not to plan much else for this day. Go into your travel days with the expectation of it not going smoothly, and you will be pleasantly surprised. We didn’t have any major hiccups, but you never know with a flexible bus schedule. Under promise, over deliver; that’s what they say, right?

waiting for a furgon at the roadside, albania bus travel

Classic ‘bus stop’

You might not find direct buses

There may not be buses going directly to where you are heading. So in this case, just walk into the bus station saying your destination. Someone will tell you the best place to switch over and point you in the right direction (don’t worry, they aren’t going to expect a tip!). Tell the driver your final destination, and they will tell you where to get on the next bus, the time it leaves etc.

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Don’t attempt the Saranda to Ksamil bus in the summer

The bus from Saranda to Ksamil is not worth taking in the height of the summer. Honestly, you’d be better off paying for a taxi, and that’s coming from a tight budget backpacker. There were SO many people on this bus that we could barely breathe. We had 20kg of backpack on our backs and 10kg on our fronts and were well and truly sardined in this bus.

Chris was sweating so much that there was a physical puddle forming from the sweat dripping down his elbow and on to the floor as we held on for dear life (and I am absolutely not exaggerating even in the slightest!).

Locals know best

The locals will know all the best Albania bus travel tips; the times that the bus leaves, where it leaves from etc. so if you’re not sure, ask around in restaurants or shops. The Albanian people are really friendly, and if they don’t know the answer, they will likely find someone else to help you.

Cute anecdote: We were staggering with our big old backpacks to the bus station. A guy in a car pulled up next to us and asked if we were going to Tirana; we weren’t. But, he had just driven past the station and had seen the bus for Tirana was being packed up. He was worried we were getting this bus and thought we were going to miss it, so was offering us a ride!

Almost beach time

Bus stations are marked on Maps.me

Bus stations and bus stops aren’t always marked on Google Maps. Download an Albanian map on Maps.me instead. It will have several bus stops/stations marked, so zoom into the city you’re looking for and search all the bus icons. They will be named something clear like ‘Bus to Tirana’, ‘Bus to Montenegro’ etc.

The Albanian transport website

The bsolute best Albania bus travel tip is to plan your routes using Gjirafa. Secret squirrel. This is THE only website that we have found that knows when and where the buses are going. (FYI Albanians call Albania ‘Shqipëria’ and not ‘Albania’. You will see this on the website – it confused me!)

Everything is possible in Albania

And, in all seriousness, travelling is as much about the journey as it is the destination. It’s all part of that authentic Albanian experience. Furgon rides are the perfect place to get chatting to locals or other travellers. We met an Australian father and daughter on a bus and spent the journey exchanging recommendations for our next few stops in Albania. Roll with the punches, keep a very loose plan on travel days, and keep the faith that it’ll work out (because it will!).

Never ending views to Korca

If you found this post helpful, and would like to support us, you could buy us a coffee at the link below.

No pressure!

We really do like coffee, though.

Have you travelled around Albania by bus? Do you have any other Albania bus travel tips?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

Thanks for reading!

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Take a look at our blog posts below related to Albania!

Top 10 Budget European City Breaks

The Ultimate Guide to Albania Bus Travel

Albania

Top 10 Things to Do in Kutaisi (plus day trips)

by Relentless Roaming | Nov 8, 2023 | Georgia, Georgia Transport, Transport

Top 10 Things to Do in Kutaisi (plus day trips)

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Our introduction to Kutaisi was not the best. We had arrived into the city during torrential rains, and we were soaked through. The location we had for our accommodation was wrong, which just added to the fun that we were already having.

Accommodation eventually found, we dried off, and headed for some well-deserved mushroom khinkali. We did the classic ‘nibble a little hole in the dough and drink the soupy juices’, and wow, we were impressed. The tastiest (and least expensive) khinkali that we have found in the whole of Georgia are right here in Kutaisi!

Aside from the delicious khinkali, Kutaisi is a beautiful city that doesn’t have the intense city vibe. Its modern bars and restaurants contrast with its traditional architecture. The ferocious river Rioni flows through the city while traditional Soviet cable cars fly up and over to the hilltop amusement park. And beautiful Bagrati Cathedral stands atop a hill, overlooking charming Kutaisi.

The longer we stayed, the more we discovered the charm of the city, and the more we returned – three times so far! This guide showcases all our favourite things to do in Kutaisi to help you plan your trip here, as well as day trips and onward travel to explore other areas of Georgia too.

Take a look at our Kutaisi restaurant guide for vegetarians in this blog post.

A Very Brief Kutaisi History

Kutaisi was the first capital city of the United Kingdom of Georgia for over a hundred years during the middle ages. In the early 1500s, the Ottomans took control of Kutaisi and the Imeretian region as well as south Georgian regions.

Wanting to take the control away from the Ottomans, the Imeretian king turned to the Russian Empire for help. The Russian-Turkish war ensued, resulting in Kutaisi and the Imeretian region being annexed by the Russian Empire in 1810. Georgia (including Kutaisi) gained independence in 1991.

Travelling to and from Kutaisi

Flights

Kutaisi has a modern international airport (KUT). Serviced by many Wizz Air flights means that Europe to Kutaisi is very much accessible…unless you’re flying from the UK. No direct flights yet means that you’ll have to get a connecting flight elsewhere in Europe first.

Marshrutka

If you are in Tbilisi, head to Didube bus station (easily accessible from Didube metro station).

Marshrutka journeys that we have taken in and out of Kutaisi:

Chiatura to Kutaisi: make your way to the Chiatura bus station located here. Buy a ticket at the office using cash. There are a few marshrutkas each day. We caught the 11:30 which took about two and half hours and cost 10 GEL.

Kutaisi to Chiatura: head to Kutaisi central bus station. You can reach this by catching the #1 marshrutka from Colchis fountain roundabout. Top tip from the woman we spoke to at tourist information – get on at McDonald’s (on the roundabout), and then get off when you spot another McDonald’s right at the bus station (about 15/20 minutes or so). Jump on the marshrutka, pay 60 tetri in cash when you get off.

In the bus station ask around for Chiatura. They will direct you to the ticket office. Pay your 10 GEL in cash and jump on the marshrutka. We caught the 11:45, and they seemed to depart every hour or so.

Kutaisi to Ozurgeti: get to Kutaisi central bus station (see tips above). Ask around for Ozurgeti, and you will be directed to the marshrutka and the ticket office – note that the ticket office for Ozurgeti is in a different part of the station to that for Chiatura. Pay 12 GEL in cash.

We caught the 11:00 (there are also departures at 15:00, 16:15 and 17:30), and the journey lasted an hour and a half.

Make sure you take a look at our Georgia marshrutka guide so you know what to expect!

Trains

We have taken the train from Tbilisi to Rioni (a town just south of Kutaisi) on two occasions. The trains to Rioni tend to be quicker than those heading into Kutaisi.

Buy your train tickets either online at tkt.ge or at the train station directly. I would recommend getting the 08:25 heading to Zugdidi (as this is the fastest), and jump out at Rioni at around 12:00. From here, get the #3 bus into Kutaisi town centre. You can tap your Starling card on board to pay the 1 GEL fee. The bus journey will take maybe twenty minutes.

One point of note, we were unable to get any phone signal at Rioni station with our Magti sim card, so were unable to call a Bolt or Maxim taxi. The bus is really the only way to get into town, unless you’re lucky to spot a taxi hanging around the station.

Planning Your Trip?

These are our favourite resources that we use religiously for planning our travels at home and while on the road. Use them for your trip planning too!

Transport: For buses and trains, we swear by BusBud, and 12Go Asia.

For flights, we find them on Skyscanner and make sure to book through Trip.com because you can rack up points which turn into credit on your account, and sometimes free lounge access.

Travel Insurance: THE best budget-friendly insurance SafetyWing – no question.

SIM Cards/Tickets/Experience: Klook is the way to go!

Accommodation in Kutaisi

On a tight budget? Grab a room at Marco Polo. This guesthouse is run by a really friendly local lady who does not speak a word of English, but will always greet you with a big smile and a ‘gamarjoba’. Simple and clean rooms in the centre of the town.

Nana’s Home is a lovely guesthouse close to the Colchis fountain roundabout but tucked down a quiet side road. The rooms are clean and there are plenty of little nooks, balconies and communal areas to enjoy a glass of wine in the evening/morning coffee. Budget prices, but not quite as budget as Marco Polo.

Things to Do in Kutaisi

See the Colchis Fountain

The Colchis fountain is huge and marks a roundabout in the city centre. It is adorned with golden structures based on archaeological findings throughout the country. Horses, goats, deer, tamada (the toastmaster) all sit on blue pedestals as water jumps around them.

Take a Soviet Cable Car Ride

This is definitely an experience. The Soviets loved putting fairgrounds on top of hills and then connecting a rickety cable car to them, and Kutaisi is not an exception. The fairground rides are not the reason to go (we spent about ten minutes up here before heading back down), the ride in the Soviet cable car up and over the river Rioni is the reason.

Georgia is full of cable cars, but many have fallen into disrepair, and others have been completely revamped into modern versions. Kutaisi’s system has been revamped, but the cable cars themselves have held on to their rickety Soviet feel. I was particularly shocked when we stepped inside and the whole car dropped down with our weight! (You don’t get that sort of excitement in a modern cable car.) Pay 1 GEL, and away you go.

soviet cable car, things to do in kutaisi

Admire River Rioni from the White Bridge

The White Bridge stands over Rioni river. See the statue of a boy with two hats that relates to the film ‘An Extraordinary Exhibition’ filmed here. You’ll see Georgian inscription on the walkway and some glass tiles meaning that you can see straight through to the river. Linger here for a little while, enjoying the views.

white bridge, rioni river, things to do in kutaisi

river rioni views from white bridge, things to do in kutaisi

Bargain for Local Produce at the Green Bazaar

The Green Bazaar is a covered market largely selling fresh produce. See stands full of fruit, veg and herbs; cheeses, churchkela and dried fruit, spices, wine and chacha. Make sure you get a shoti (Georgian, canoe-shaped bread) straight from the tone (tandoor-style oven) at Bread and Wine within the bazaar.

green bazaar cheeses, things to do in kutaisi

Explore Kutaisi’s Backstreets

Take a couple of hours to explore some of Kutaisi’s interesting architecture away from the main city centre. Head up to the Green Flower Pantheon and Mtsvanekvavila Church for some stunning views up the river. Walk back down towards Kutaisi synagogue, and then over to what is marked on Google Maps as ‘Old House’.

Take a look into the St. George’s Church complex and walk around the back to head down to the river’s edge. Carry on down the road towards the Holy Annunciation Temple before wandering back into the city centre. We found so many little side roads with characterful architecture, rusted gateways, wonky staircases and doors full of charm. Keep your camera at the ready!

Kutaisi Holy annunciation church, things to do in kutaisi

Venture up to Bagrati Cathedral for Stunning City Views

Bagrati Cathedral is a fifteen minute walk across Kutaisi’s chain bridge and up steps the other side of the river. The building itself is impressive from the outside with blue/green roof tiles, but is very plain and simple inside. Venture up here to get great panoramic views across the city, with mountains in the backdrop.

bagrati cathedral, things to do in kutaisi

city views from bagrati cathedral, things to do in kutaisi

Find Kutaisi’s Old Soviet Friezes

There are a couple of prominent Soviet friezes in Kutaisi, notably at the entrance to the Green Bazaar. This frieze is huge and covers the entire side of a wall. Another is at the Wissol petrol station just below Bagrati Cathedral: you’ll find the artwork on each side of the station.

green bazaar soviet frieze, things to do in kutaisi

Wissol petrol station soviet frieze, things to do in kutaisi

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Search for Street Art

Kutaisi has street art concentrated in the centre of the city near Papavero restaurant, and then one by Story restaurant, as well as other locations dotted around the city. They’re generally large murals that cover whole walls and really stand-out pieces.

See the Retro Cinema Signage

Although Kutaisi doesn’t currently have a cinema, it used to have two. You can see the retro signage remnants of both in the city centre – Radium and Mon Plaisir.

Wander the Free Museums

Kutaisi has three museums which have free entry – Georgia Sports, Military Glory, Photo Cinema Chronicles. If you have a rainy day in Kutaisi, you could go for a wander round these. There isn’t much signage in English, but for free entry, they are interesting to wander through.

The Photo Cinema Chronicles was our favourite as it had many old fashioned cameras and old pictures of Kutaisi, Bagrati Cathedral and Gelati and Motsameta Monasteries.

Day Trips and Onward Travel from Kutaisi

Gelati and Motsameta UNESCO Monasteries

This is THE day trip to take from Kutaisi. Jump on a marshrutka out of town to Gelati monastery, and then walk back to town via Motsameta monastery. You will feel like you’re hiking through the rainforest on the way back – honestly breath-taking. A blog post with tips of how to visit the monasteries is on its way.

Tskaltubo – Urbexer’s Paradise

Tskaltubo is a partially abandoned town known for Soviet sanatoriums. The large buildings are really impressive and a playground for urbexers. It is a quick twenty minute marshrutka ride from Kutaisi, so makes a great day/half-day trip.

However, the reviews that I had read on the town didn’t quite set me up for how uncomfortable the place would make me feel. It is such an interesting, historical place, but maybe not for everyone. I will share my experiences in a blog post coming very soon.

tskaltubo sanatoriums, things to do in kutaisi

Chiatura – Soviet Mining Town with Cable Cars

The Soviet mining town is about a two and half hour marshrutka ride away. We stayed for a couple of nights to try out the new cable cars and explore the old, abandoned Soviet ones, and Mgvimevi Monastery built into the cliff face. A Chiatura blog post is coming soon.

Ozurgeti – Tropical Tea Town

The capital of the generally overlooked region of Guria was a very pleasant contrast with the cities we had explored throughout the country so far. Beautiful, characterful, traditional oda-style houses built on stilts with huge winding staircases and balconies, Soviet mosaics, mountain scenery, tea plantations and the friendliest people!

Did I mention the Guruli khachapuri?! Heaven. This area feels so tropical and laid-back. Ozurgeti blog post is in the works.

If you found this post helpful, and would like to support us, you could buy us a coffee at the link below.

No pressure!

We really do like coffee, though.

Have you visited Kutaisi? Or are you planning a visit?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations and questions.

Thanks for reading!

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Take a look at our blog posts below related to Georgia!

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Travel Tips

Night Bus from Plovdiv to Istanbul: Everything You Need to Know

by Relentless Roaming | Oct 18, 2023 | Bulgaria, Bulgaria Transport, Transport, Turkey, Turkey Transport

Night Bus from Plovdiv to Istanbul: Everything You Need to Know

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Getting the night bus from Plovdiv to Istanbul is a really efficient way to travel this route. Go to sleep, wake up at the border, go back to sleep, you’re in Istanbul. Here’s all the information and preparation you might need for taking this bus and crossing the Bulgaria/Turkey border.

Night Bus from Plovdiv to Istanbul: Everything You Need to Know

Find Accommodation with a Reception Seating Area in Plovdiv

Ask Around for the Best Price for Your Ticket

Return to the Station Twenty Minutes Before the Bus Leaves

Getting on the Bus

Border Crossing

Arrival into Esenler Otogar (bus station)

Istanbulkart

Metro from Otogar to the City Centre

Find Accommodation with a Reception Seating Area in Plovdiv

Staying in accommodation with a reception seating area means that you have somewhere to sit before heading to the bus station late at night. Charge your phone, use the toilet, make sure you have your map for Turkey downloaded on Google Maps and Maps.me and your Istanbul accommodation location saved.

Our recommendation would be to stay at Best Rest Guesthouse. It’s a simple guesthouse with a reception seating area, and it is a two-minute walk to Plovdiv International Bus Station.

Skyle Guest and Atlas Home Luxury Suites also look like great options that we would head to if we fancied something a little fancier.

Ask Around for the Best Price for Your Ticket

Several companies run this route, leaving at different times. The best timing and price that we found was with Huntur. Leaving Plovdiv at 00:30, the bus should arrive into Istanbul at 06:30. The price was 35 BGN or 30 BGN if you’re a student (which of course, we are!). Other companies were charging 45 BGN each, so Huntur was by far the best price.

Bear in mind that they only accept cash and there isn’t an ATM on site, but there is a DSK ATM a five-minute walk away. Also remember to bring your passport, otherwise you will not be issued a ticket.

Planning Your Trip?

These are our favourite resources that we use religiously for planning our travels at home and while on the road. Use them for your trip planning too!

Transport: For buses and trains, we swear by BusBud, and 12Go Asia.

For flights, we find them on Skyscanner and make sure to book through Trip.com because you can rack up points which turn into credit on your account, and sometimes free lounge access.

Travel Insurance: THE best budget-friendly insurance SafetyWing – no question.

SIM Cards/Tickets/Experience: Klook is the way to go!

Return to the Station Twenty Minutes Before the Bus Leaves

The start of this bus journey is not Plovdiv, but it stops at Plovdiv en route to Istanbul. Because of this, the bus won’t just be sat there waiting for passengers to fill it up like it would if Plovdiv was the beginning point.

We always try to get to our transportation twenty minutes before in case of early arrival. Bus companies that have late buses like this will likely have their stand open until their last bus has left, so you can speak to them if you have any questions, the bus is late etc.

Getting on the Bus

Show your ticket and get onto the bus. Your big luggage will be stowed underneath the bus, but smaller bags can be put under your seat or the overhead shelf.

Sit in your assigned seat on your ticket. There is assigned seating for each ticket, but if your bus is anything like ours (only about a third full), everyone will space out once it gets going.

Border Crossing

Kapikule Sinir Kapisi Giseleri is the crossing situated at the point where Bulgaria, Turkey and Greece meet. We arrived at about 02:30.

You have to get off the bus with all of your luggage including the large bags underneath the bus. Carry these across the border through passport control (making sure your visa is in check), and put your luggage through a scanner.

While this is going on, the authorities are checking the bus and it will then drive across the border. Put your bags back on the bus and off you trot.

Arrival into Esenler Otogar (bus station)

You should arrive into Esenler Otogar (bus station) between 06:00 and 06:30. The bus station is massive and also pretty far out of the main city centre, so you would likely need to get the metro or a bus to your accommodation. There is metro stop named Otogar which is basically inside the bus station. This is your best bet.

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Istanbulkart

To use the public transport in Istanbul, you need to buy and load money onto an Istanbulkart. This can be bought at the Otogar metro station. Find everything you need to know about the Istanbulkart in this post.

Metro from Otogar to the City Centre

Jump on the red metro line M1a or M1b heading towards Yenikapi. It is worth noting that getting on the M1a line the opposite way will take you to Ataturk Havalimani airport. You can double check bus and metro times using Google Maps. They have a very reliable service throughout Istanbul.

If you found this post helpful, and would like to support us, you could buy us a coffee at the link below.

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Fancy taking the night bus from Plovdiv to Istanbul? Or have you already travelled this way?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

Thanks for reading!

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Top Tips for Travelling from Sofia to Bucharest by Bus

by Relentless Roaming | Sep 27, 2023 | Bulgaria, Bulgaria Transport, Romania, Romania Transport, Transport

Top Tips for Travelling from Sofia to Bucharest by Bus

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This was the final (and longest) leg of our bus journey to reach Romania. We started our travel at 08:30 in Pristina, Kosovo; then headed to Skopje, North Macedonia; and now we had just arrived into Sofia, Bulgaria at 21:00. We had booked accommodation in Sofia so that we could get our heads down, and then head from Sofia to Bucharest by bus in the morning. BUT (and this is where it got interesting), we hadn’t booked our tickets yet.

As with every other leg of this mammoth journey, we were booking the tickets as and when. However, Sofia International Bus Station is an absolute mission and a half: a really stressful place in the evenings. Everyone seems to be panicking. At around 22:30, a woman was running round asking anyone to get her a bus to Vienna this evening. Vienna is a long old bus ride away! And this late in the day and so last minute?!

Because it was so stressful, I know that we could have done with a lot more information on this journey and the international bus station to prepare us better. If you are thinking about travelling from Sofia to Bucharest by bus, or heading somewhere else from Sofia, I hope this helps out. So, here you go, folks!

Top Tips for Travelling from Sofia to Bucharest by Bus

Sofia International Bus Station is Intense

Buying Bus Tickets Online

Is It Cheaper to Buy Online or In Person?

Bus Times from Sofia to Bucharest

Getting on the Bus

Breaks Along the Way

The Border Crossing

From the Border to Bucharest

You’ve Arrived!

Where to Stay in Bucharest

Sofia International Bus Station is Intense

The bus station is an outdoor maze of small counters run by different bus companies. Some stay open very late: we were probably there until 23:00, but a lot close earlier depending on the times their company runs buses. Companies operate similar routes with different stops and different prices, so make sure you ask around and check at the train station to weight up all your options. Don’t just agree to the first company that offers your route: you can always come back to them.

Most companies only accept cash as payment, even when they had the stickers in their doors advertising that they accept Mastercard and Visa! Don’t worry though, there is an ATM on site which does not charge withdrawal fees. We withdrew cash using our Starling cards without any problem or fees.

Sofia

Planning Your Trip?

These are our favourite resources that we use religiously for planning our travels at home and while on the road. Use them for your trip planning too!

Transport: For buses and trains, we swear by BusBud, and 12Go Asia.

For flights, we find them on Skyscanner and make sure to book through Trip.com because you can rack up points which turn into credit on your account, and sometimes free lounge access.

Travel Insurance: THE best budget-friendly insurance SafetyWing – no question.

SIM Cards/Tickets/Experience: Klook is the way to go!

Buying Bus Tickets Online

We have visited many websites for bus companies in the Balkans, the majority of which I would not feel comfortable inputting my card details, passport details etc. Many are not user friendly, don’t translate well into English, and some don’t even have the https in the URL. If this is the case, I would not recommend booking your tickets online. However, we found FlixBus that has a great website. We have booked several buses with them through their website; it’s logical and reliable. Buy your ticket, and they send you an email confirmation with a QR scanner. That’s it.

Is It Cheaper to Buy Online or In Person?

For our example of the Sofia to Bucharest that dreadful evening, it was far cheaper to buy the tickets online. The agent initially quoted us 20 EUR each for a seven hour journey which seemed reasonable. Then within about ten minutes, the price had jumped to 36 EUR each. Erm…what?! He told us that we were better off checking the website instead of booking through him. He even gave us his wifi password to complete the booking. It came to 18 EUR booking directly through Flix Bus.

Bus Times from Sofia to Bucharest

There are two buses that head to Bucharest from Sofia each day with Flix Bus: one at 13:15 arriving in at 20:15, and one at 23:30 arriving in at 06:30 the next day. We got the bus in the day from Sofia, and the bus overnight back to Sofia, and we can thoroughly recommend getting the night bus if possible. There won’t be as much mayhem at the border at night, so your journey will be shorter. Also, you save on a night’s accommodation. Win win.

Getting on the Bus

Make sure you arrive at least fifteen minutes early at the international bus station. They will scan you QR code on your tickets and throw your bag underneath the bus. Now, our tickets had a caveat about luggage allowance: certain dimensions, weight etc. We both had huge backpacks that probably weigh 20kg, a smaller backpack we wear on the front that’s got to be coming up 10kg, and a small bag with odds and ends. No one checked anything, so regular luggage should be ok – just don’t bring five suitcases!

Sit in the seat assigned on your ticket. There is space for hand luggage overhead and under the seat in front. There is also a flip down table, charging points and wifi.

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Breaks Along the Way

There is one designated stop of maybe fifteen minutes at a petrol station that has decent toilets with a little cafe and shop just before Veliko Tarnovo, so about three hours in.

The bus then stops at Veliko Tarnovo if people are booked to pick it up from there, otherwise it will just continue on.

Veliko Tarnovo

The Border Crossing

This is where the fun starts! The bus crosses the border at Ruse and it is by a long way, the busiest land border crossing we have ever experienced. The bus was crawling along in traffic for about two hours to cross the border.

Once we reached the border, the border police came up on to the bus. They asked everyone where they were heading and took their passports or ID cards in a huge pile off of the bus. It freaks me out when someone takes my passport away, but it’s the way that it works at this border.

The bus pulled over and we had to wait for thirty minutes to get the passports back. There is a small duty free, a currency exchange and toilets here.

We got back on the bus and were handed our passports back, which had been stamped with a Bulgarian exit and Romanian entry.

From the Border to Bucharest

This last part of the journey should only take about an hour, and will bring you to Autogara Militari.

You’ve Arrived!

Flix Bus’s station, called Autogara Militari, is quite a way out of the city centre so you will likely need to get more transport into the centre. We eventually arrived at 22:00.

I would 100% recommend getting a Bolt pick up from the station to your accommodation as it will probably cost you between 2-3 GBP. Otherwise, jump on a bus like us or there is a metro station close by.

There is a taxi layby right outside the entrance to the bus station which is where your Bolt can pick you up from.

If getting the bus, turn right out of the bus station and then turn right when you hit the main road. The bus stops just outside the flower shop. You can tap your Starling card for payment on the bus: 3 RON each.

If getting the metro, turn right out of the bus station, cross the main road, and the metro station is just on your left.

Google Maps works well in Bucharest so you can see live bus times etc. to keep track of where you’re going.

Welcome to Bucharest

Where to Stay in Bucharest

We would recommend Global Downtown Apartments – Universitate – Balcescu for a budget stay. We stayed here and it ticked all the boxes. You have your own private space with a lounge area and a small kitchen so you can prepare your own meals. The rooms are quiet even though the entrance is from a main road, and the location is great for exploring the city and reaching public transport. There is a minimum two night stay requirement.

LazyNest Residence and 2 Vis-a-Vis Studio – Gara de Nord apartments look great too!

If you found this post helpful, and would like to support us, you could buy us a coffee at the link below.

No pressure!

We really do like coffee, though.

Have travelled from Sofia to Bucharest by bus? Is there anything else you would add?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

Thanks for reading!

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Take a look at our blog posts below related to Bulgaria and Romania!

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How to Visit Dracula’s Castle: Brasov to Bran

by Relentless Roaming | Sep 20, 2023 | Romania, Romania Transport, Transport

How to Visit Dracula’s Castle: Brasov to Bran

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Built atop a rocky perch, Dracula’s Castle (Bran Castle) stands tall with white brickwork, exposed beams and is topped with orange rooftiles and tall spires. You can see exactly why it has its associations with Dracula: it feels ominous and imposing, maybe even intimidating (or is that just psychological?). The castle evidently has plenty of stories to tell and has been associated with Romanian myths and legends. This really is an intriguing spot to add to your Romania itinerary.

We visited as a half-day trip from Brasov, and so have put together this guide on how to visit Dracula’s Castle.

How to Visit Dracula’s Castle: Brasov to Bran

A Little of Bran Castle’s Back Story

Did Dracula actually live here?

Where is the castle?

How do I get to Bran Castle from Brasov?

How much does it cost?

Is it worth paying to go inside?

How long should you spend there?

Does it get busy?

How do I get back to Brasov?

Where to Stay In Brasov

A Little of Bran Castle’s Back Story

A castle has been on this site since early 1200s, however, the stone castle of Bran was built in the late 1300s. Used as a defence against the invading Ottomans and a checkpoint along a trade route, it wasn’t until after the Austro-Hungarian rule in 1920, that the Romanian royalty were handed the property.

Queen Marie was particularly fond of the castle and instigated renovations to bring it into the condition that we see today. Communism came in, the royal family were expelled, and their property taken. After the fall of communism, properties were redistributed to their rightful heirs and Bran Castle was turned into a museum.

The beautifully photogenic courtyard

Views from the top

Did Dracula actually live here?

Ok, so first thing to clear up is that, quite upsettingly, this isn’t actually anything to do with the fictional character from Bram Stoker’s novel, Dracula. Fictional Dracula is very often mixed up with the very much real Vlad Tepes (or Vlad Dracul or Vlad the Impaler as you may know him) who was a ruler of the Wallachia region of Romania in the 1400s. Even fictional Dracula is not believed to have been set here.

So it seems that the imposing castle is a place where people could picture Dracula living and so it stuck? Disappointing, eh? Nevertheless, the castle is an amazing piece of architecture with a museum inside dedicated to Queen Marie of Romania, that is worthy of a visit.

I want to suck your blood!

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Where is the castle?

Dracula’s Castle or Bran Castle is located in the village of Bran in Transylvania, about 25km southwest of Brasov. It makes an easy day or even half-day trip from Brasov on a public bus that only takes about 50 minutes.

How do I get to Bran Castle from Brasov?

Head to Autogara 2 in Brasov city where a public bus leaves this station every half hour. You can’t pay for your ticket in advance, so just turn up, jump on and pay 13 RON (price in 2022) in cash to the driver. We got there about ten minutes early and were able to buy tickets and grab a seat without problems.

It is a straight forward journey and will get you there in about 50 minutes. The bus will drop you right outside the castle entrance. Walk through the market stalls selling Dracula souvenirs and enter the castle. Maybe stop for a Turkish coffee cooked over sand by this guy.

Red tower viewpoint, things to do in Korca

Professional

How much does it cost?

Tickets cost 70 RON, so they’re pretty pricey for a backpacker budget. You buy your ticket at the gate and then have to scan the barcode when you enter the castle itself, so make sure you hold on to it until then. You can actually enter the grounds of the castle, wander round, have a picnic by the ponds, take photos of the castle etc. without paying any fee. It is only entering the castle that requires payment.

Castle grounds

Is it worth paying to go inside?

It depends on your interests. As someone who really appreciates unique and historic architecture, I would say yes! You get to enter several rooms which have been laid out with traditional furniture and paintings etc. There are rooms that have more of a museum feel about them with information on the castle’s history, Queen Marie and even Romanian folklore and legends. You get to climb the stairs through a secret passageway, stand out on the balcony for some great views of the surrounding area and the internal courtyard.

When we visited Romania, I felt like it was something that I really wanted to do: it’s probably Romania’s biggest claim to fame around the world! I think it was worth the entrance fee.

How long should you spend there?

We spent about an hour walking around the castle, reading the info on the exhibits and taking pictures. After visiting the castle, wander around the outside also. Maybe find a spot in the sunshine for a drink or a picnic.

Does it get busy?

Yes! Queuing to get into a tourist attraction is THE worst, however, there are some instances where it is necessary, and this is one of them.

My advice is to get the first bus from Brasov that leaves at 8am to get you to the castle before the 9am opening. We arrived about ten minutes before opening and there were maybe twelve people waiting in the queue.

Get in and visit the castle first as this is where the backlog of people is created. The secret passageway and stairwells are narrow so it could easily cause a queue. If we didn’t arrive first thing, I probably would have struggled with the sheer amount of people.

Get that alarm set

Planning Your Trip?

These are our favourite resources that we use religiously for planning our travels at home and while on the road. Use them for your trip planning too!

Transport: For buses and trains, we swear by BusBud, and 12Go Asia.

For flights, we find them on Skyscanner and make sure to book through Trip.com because you can rack up points which turn into credit on your account, and sometimes free lounge access.

Travel Insurance: THE best budget-friendly insurance SafetyWing – no question.

SIM Cards/Tickets/Experience: Klook is the way to go!

How do I get back to Brasov?

Jump on the same bus on the other side of the road. The bus stop is right by a langos stand so you could always grab one of these while you’re waiting. It’s the same deal on the way back: you shouldn’t have to wait more than 30 minutes.

Where to Stay in Brasov

I wouldn’t really recommend the accommodation that we stayed in. There was no window, which is one of my absolute non-negotiables, but we didn’t realise until we got there. If we were going back to Brasov, we would book either Dinicu Residence – Central Location or MagicB up instead!

If you found this post helpful, and would like to support us, you could buy us a coffee at the link below.

No pressure!

We really do like coffee, though.

Have you been to Bran Castle? Are there any other tips that you would add?

I’d love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or questions.

Thanks for reading!

Like it? Save it!

Take a look at our blog posts below related to Romania!

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